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Randomnoob27
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To keep the crowd happy thanks for the help. I watered with cal mag on the big plant today with the qtr strength so hopefully it takes to it well its the first nutes besides guano
Chads JH 4x4 Grow
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Randomnoob27
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Randomnoob27
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Randomnoob27
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Randomnoob27
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These are at 35 days and 45 days coming on nicely.
Go easy on the nitrogen the soil has plenty until the plant gets about 2 foot bushy maybe even 3 foot. If you do add guano no more than a teaspoon per gal water. I like to add guanos during preflower when the leaves start to yellow on the bottom(Sign you are losing nitrogen). Keeping those leaves green during flower will result in longer flower times, bigger buds, better smoke. I see most indoor growers dropping leaves too fast during begging flower stages. They are looking very good! Keep up the hard work and remember old growth will remain light and the new growth will come in dark. Give it 4-7 days before you see results. Get that other plant dark green. Goes easy on the nitrogen or else you will get leaf curl, burnt tips, and brittle dark green leaves.
I go Feed
Day1:Nutes w/calmag
Day2:water
Day3:water with calmag 1/4 dose
Day4:water/vitamins/calmag 1/4 dose
Repeat
I only water when the top 3 inchs of soil are bone dry. If the soil is damp i skip a day and check for PH issues or regenerate my soil.
The key to nutrients- less is more. You can feed with the guano as a top feed or add it to your water. I noticed that they like water flushes every once in a while to remove salts that prevent uptake. This occurs in organic soil too but is less common.
Day1:Nutes w/calmag
Day2:water
Day3:water with calmag 1/4 dose
Day4:water/vitamins/calmag 1/4 dose
Repeat
I only water when the top 3 inchs of soil are bone dry. If the soil is damp i skip a day and check for PH issues or regenerate my soil.
The key to nutrients- less is more. You can feed with the guano as a top feed or add it to your water. I noticed that they like water flushes every once in a while to remove salts that prevent uptake. This occurs in organic soil too but is less common.
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Randomnoob27
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Just gotta adjust my watering schedule a lil bit my pots won't be dry dry at a day so might have to do the same schedule just every other or third day, will I get better results if I do not let them dry completely like I have been. do u think the leaf curl could be my wind off my straight fan and a lil bit of heat combined , my grow runs at about 80 and leaves dance often. Thanks for the reply bro
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Randomnoob27
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Guess I need a crash course on nutrients needs and what to have. Besides the mychrohizae and cal mag what nutes do you use in veg state that im in r/n. Like I said trying to keep it simple so I've been running straight soil and water up to this point yesterday. Day 45 plant watered with cal mag day 35 plant staright water . But the guano(happy frog) says slow intake so I added it to soil before both transplants. Anything I can expound upon to make my grow flourish better.. mykos tow too
From my exp the best thing to do is leave the soil alone until the plant shows deficiencies. Foxfarm ocean forest soil has enough nutes to flower a small plant but is not recommened. The amount of nutrients in the soil is not based on time but by plant size.
Example: 1 Bag of foxfarm soil will keep a plant alive and very healthy until the plant reaches 2-3 foot in size and has many shoots. When the plants hit this "vigor adult" stage they take off requiring more nutes. Most often these nutes are nitrogen and mag so simple introduction of cal/mag and guano will do the trick.
after the plant starts to hit vigor you have to ask your self, Do I have enough NPK? Epsom salts work wonders here. Natral PH down minerals work good when the soil starts to rise high in PH during mid/pre flowering.
Potassium is needed more abundantly during mid flower. At this time you would reduce or remove nitrogen from your feed to allow the plant to use its leaves to make big buds. During mid flower you will notice fall like leaves this is normal but is often confused with PH issues when the plant starts dropping its leaves because the root uptake is no longer addressing nutes to the whole plant. The plant goes into safety mode to try and survive.
The root zone is the most important part of the plant. It likes to be warm, moist, fluffy, and airy. The roots hate sitting in water, cold weather, tangling with each other, and dense environments with no oxygen.
By gently rolling the smart pots on the ground you can create big cracks in the soil without damaging the roots. This lets oxygen to the roots making the drying time even and quick.
Only let the plant soil dry and wilt to see the threshold once. It damages the plant(Slightly) but is a good learning experience. Once you see how much the plant can get dry then you know the optimal uptake when watering(given your PH is correct). Plant damage can be reduced if you catch the "wilt" in time.
So less is more. Looking close at new growth will help determine what stage the plant is in. Plants indoors like some cool temps like 70 but 80 is fine too. They can get pretty hot and the fan is always good as it simulates the wind and keep mold from sporing into the plant.
My nutes in flower: Bloom booster(additive to main feed), cal/mag, homemade banana soil(over 100 bannans composted whole), ph down, epsom salt, bat guano, and super thrive(vitamins).
The bananas i composted during sprouting time provide the potassium for me. They are 1 dollar for a huge box at my dollar store(overipe).
Each guano or nutrients have their own release times, and seem to work different. Each has their own respectively in that one can be used for immediate uptake while others can slowly provide continual feed over the season.
I like to go natural as much as possible.
Natures list:
Epsom salt- A mineral containing magnesium in large amounts.
Bananas- Compost for potassium
Rock Dust- Helps grow beneficial bacteria in the soil to manage/buffer PH
Eggsshell Powder- Calcium
Neem oil- Bug repellent, mold prevention, displaces water drops.
Blood- Iron "Only you shall not eat the blood; you shall pour it out on the earth like water." -The Holy Bible
sawdust- decomposes well and has minerals pulled deep from the earth.
Ash- PH up or used to control weeds in unwanted areas by changing soil ph to high.
These are just a few you can research than have helped me out. Your plants look healthy with every post too. Keep at them but dont spend to much time with them or else you could love them to death(happy puppy syndrome).
Example: 1 Bag of foxfarm soil will keep a plant alive and very healthy until the plant reaches 2-3 foot in size and has many shoots. When the plants hit this "vigor adult" stage they take off requiring more nutes. Most often these nutes are nitrogen and mag so simple introduction of cal/mag and guano will do the trick.
after the plant starts to hit vigor you have to ask your self, Do I have enough NPK? Epsom salts work wonders here. Natral PH down minerals work good when the soil starts to rise high in PH during mid/pre flowering.
Potassium is needed more abundantly during mid flower. At this time you would reduce or remove nitrogen from your feed to allow the plant to use its leaves to make big buds. During mid flower you will notice fall like leaves this is normal but is often confused with PH issues when the plant starts dropping its leaves because the root uptake is no longer addressing nutes to the whole plant. The plant goes into safety mode to try and survive.
The root zone is the most important part of the plant. It likes to be warm, moist, fluffy, and airy. The roots hate sitting in water, cold weather, tangling with each other, and dense environments with no oxygen.
By gently rolling the smart pots on the ground you can create big cracks in the soil without damaging the roots. This lets oxygen to the roots making the drying time even and quick.
Only let the plant soil dry and wilt to see the threshold once. It damages the plant(Slightly) but is a good learning experience. Once you see how much the plant can get dry then you know the optimal uptake when watering(given your PH is correct). Plant damage can be reduced if you catch the "wilt" in time.
So less is more. Looking close at new growth will help determine what stage the plant is in. Plants indoors like some cool temps like 70 but 80 is fine too. They can get pretty hot and the fan is always good as it simulates the wind and keep mold from sporing into the plant.
My nutes in flower: Bloom booster(additive to main feed), cal/mag, homemade banana soil(over 100 bannans composted whole), ph down, epsom salt, bat guano, and super thrive(vitamins).
The bananas i composted during sprouting time provide the potassium for me. They are 1 dollar for a huge box at my dollar store(overipe).
Each guano or nutrients have their own release times, and seem to work different. Each has their own respectively in that one can be used for immediate uptake while others can slowly provide continual feed over the season.
I like to go natural as much as possible.
Natures list:
Epsom salt- A mineral containing magnesium in large amounts.
Bananas- Compost for potassium
Rock Dust- Helps grow beneficial bacteria in the soil to manage/buffer PH
Eggsshell Powder- Calcium
Neem oil- Bug repellent, mold prevention, displaces water drops.
Blood- Iron "Only you shall not eat the blood; you shall pour it out on the earth like water." -The Holy Bible
sawdust- decomposes well and has minerals pulled deep from the earth.
Ash- PH up or used to control weeds in unwanted areas by changing soil ph to high.
These are just a few you can research than have helped me out. Your plants look healthy with every post too. Keep at them but dont spend to much time with them or else you could love them to death(happy puppy syndrome).
BudDrummer
New Member
Hey man. I love Jack! I used to live in NJ and I remember I got just a bit of Jack straight from the Cannabis Cup winning batch. Was phenomenal. Your girls look great! I love that internodal growth you got going!
I'll be watching for sure!
Herby- You are growing JH x C99? That sounds super dank!
I'll be watching for sure!
Herby- You are growing JH x C99? That sounds super dank!
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Randomnoob27
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Just a love for bein in the garden is what I like to call it "haze" haha but im taking notes for real I think they are healthy with no deficiencies yet well wait til about bloom sometime when it reaches adult vigor so that gives me a good estimate. Gimme a min to jot down all your wisdom lol good info.
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Randomnoob27
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Randomnoob27
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Randomnoob27
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Really was trying to wait a week to repost but I had to transplant. I dont wanna slow down the momentum, trying to set myself up with a full canopy across the whole tent with a scrog. Plants giving off a wee bit o dank smell at this point
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Randomnoob27
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My plants thank you immensely haze4days they now are drying much more even and quicker now that I have been using the rolling method
This transplant is just in time! The roots are like worms they seek out pockets of nutrients. When the roots get to the edge of the pot they tell the plant to start flowering(Most strains). This premature flowering can be used in a pinch to speed up harvest but some potency, aroma, and bud size will be lost. If you chase connoisseur level cannabis let those roots have more room then they need. My rule of thumb is to let the plants roots space to be double that of the canopy width.
Thanks for the compliment. You got lots of nodes and beautiful growth(Look like solid genes). Those roots are thick and white, they look thriving. The canopy will catch back up soon. I say 5 days before you notice a vigor stage that will impress you daily.
Thanks for the updates too makes for good read and view.
Thanks for the compliment. You got lots of nodes and beautiful growth(Look like solid genes). Those roots are thick and white, they look thriving. The canopy will catch back up soon. I say 5 days before you notice a vigor stage that will impress you daily.
Thanks for the updates too makes for good read and view.
Oh and my rule of thumb for roots needing double the canopy width is based of regular natural growth. Topping, femming, and other super crop Techniques distort this theory some.
I am not a fan of trimming or other methods that involve destroying plant matter. I use to trim plants ect but latter found that trimming slowed me down. I now have this technique/ goal where i try to save as many leaves as i can before harvest.
Its possible to keep every leaf on the plant dark green throughout most of its life. Its hard but is possible.
I am not a fan of trimming or other methods that involve destroying plant matter. I use to trim plants ect but latter found that trimming slowed me down. I now have this technique/ goal where i try to save as many leaves as i can before harvest.
Its possible to keep every leaf on the plant dark green throughout most of its life. Its hard but is possible.
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Randomnoob27
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Randomnoob27
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