Help! Potential Plant Problem

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Hey guys, I've been growing an autoflower fem plant for the last 5 weeks, and it's started the flowering process. I have noticed that both sapling leaves have turned yellow and fallen off (which I hear is normal), however, the next set of leaves (two full leaves seen in picture) is now also starting to turn yellow. The progress has been very slow, it's taken about a week for the plant to get this yellow this far at the bottom leaves. I'm scared it might be a N deficiency, or perhaps my pH levels are off and causing nute lock. I don't have a pH reader yet so I couldn't say what the pH is but any ideas on what this is? Should I be worried? I gave the plant 1/4 strength 20-20-20 miracle grow when the 1st set of true leaves appeared. I upped the strength to 1/2 a week later, and I've been only giving it fertilizer every 5-7 days, watering in between every 2-3 days or so. I've got two computer fans for intake and outtake. The plant has looked immaculate till now, super low maintenance, probably due to the small pot size. I've just switched one light over to a 2700k bulb (60 watts), and also have one 6000k light (80 watts) for the flowering phase. I've got about 2000 lumens going on it right now. Both lights I'm using are CFL's, however one of them is 6000k. I had heard that this light spectrum is okay for usage during the entire plants life. I had had a 6500k bulb (60 watts) and a 6000k bulb (80 watts) until now.

I was told that with these autoflower fems, they'll grow regardless of the amount of light it receives (hour wise), but since I'm seeing hairs on the tops I am going to switch it to a 18/6 schedule until harvest. This is my first grow, so I do realize there are a lot of things I am doing cheaply.

I gave it a 1/2 strength dose about an hour ago, so we'll see if that fixes the problem. Perhaps my fertilizer days are spread too far apart? I'm thinking that now that the plant is starting to flower, the plant is demanding more N.

Thoughts? Tips? Thanks in advance!
Sorry for the sideways images. I'm hitting the enter key on this right before passing out.

 

[Dan Ultra]

Re: Help! Potentiol Plant Problem.

Once the plant starts to flower, it needs less N and more K. You should also switch your light cycle to 12/12 not 18/6. Even though it's an auto, it still needs to rest. Are you using liquid nutes or dry? Dry or pellet nutes are usually time release, so it might be bite burn. When's the last time you did a flush?

 

[Pigeons420]

Re: Help! Potentiol Plant Problem.

I agree with Dan. Forget the 18/6 your past that point if you see hairs. 12/12 is your cycle. Here's a chart I hope it helps. Also keep in mind that the Miricle grow 20-20-20 is a very basic nutrient. If you area has harsh water or anything else that would affect it's acidity you need a more complex nutrient system such as the "flora series"

 

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Re: Help! Potentiol Plant Problem.

I agree with Dan. Forget the 18/6 your past that point if you see hairs. 12/12 is your cycle. Here's a chart I hope it helps. Also keep in mind that the Miricle grow 20-20-20 is a very basic nutrient. If you area has harsh water or anything else that would affect it's acidity you need a more complex nutrient system such as the "flora series"

Here is how I have been watering the plant:
Week 1: Sapling stage
Day 1: Fertilizer (First set of leaves)
Day 2: Nothing
Day 3: Nothing
Day 4: Flush, allowing about 10-15 percent of the water to pass through.
Day 5: Nothing
Day 6: Nothing
Day 7: Fertilizer

Rinse and repeat until now. The odd time the Fertilizing day landed on Day 6, or Day 5, because the plant seemed to be taking the water very quickly. I definitely don't think it's a nute burn, because the new leaves aren't too too dark of a green, and the next set under those are a perfect green. It's just the yellowish tinge to the spine and veins of the lowest sets of leaves, and the two leaves on the bottom turning completely yellow.

Instead of Flushing and having about a 20-30 percent runoff, I've been giving it sort of a half flush I guess you could say? I allow the tray the pot sits in to collect fully with water, dump it, and done. The plant is taking about 1-2 water bottles of water per watering.

Repeat.
I'll switch the lighting to 12/12 instead, I trust you guys. I did a lot of reading on autoflowers though and the majority of people growing them had said that an 18/6 lighting schedule works best for autoflowers surprisingly, that's why I was going to go with 18/6. Lot's of people said 18/6, some said 20/4, some said 16/8, some said 12/12. It varied quite a bit. Some even said just leave it on 24/7. I think it's because autoflower fem seeds are a newerish type of way to grow? Who knows.

Also, is it normal for the leaves at the very bottom to turn yellow and/or fall off during flowering as you get closer to harvest? None of the other leaves are showing signs of stress. Nothing is drooping, however, the spines and veins on some of the older leaves are starting to turn greenish-yellow. Not like, yellow yellow, just slightly discolored from the next set of leaves above it.

Also, I was also told that you don't neccessarily need K for buds to grow in the flowering stage. I was told to just stop giving it the 20-20-20 roughly 2 weeks before harvest to allow the chemicals to flush and not effect the taste of the bud. I don't really know where to get professional grow materials like that. We have a shitload of Wal-Marts here where I live, but It's going to take some real time trying to find out where I can get this stuff locally. I'll definitely look into it though, I'm estimating I have about 3 more weeks until it's ready to harvest.

In the pictures, the N deficiency (late stage) looks exactly like where these two leaves are at at the bottom.
If it's worth noting, I did not mist the leaves at all during this grow.

Thanks!

 

[Dan Ultra]

Re: Help! Potentiol Plant Problem.

I did a lot of reading on autoflowers though and the majority of people growing them had said that an 18/6 lighting schedule works best for autoflowers surprisingly, that's why I was going to go with 18/6. Lot's of people said 18/6, some said 20/4, some said 16/8, some said 12/12. It varied quite a bit. Some even said just leave it on 24/7

This is for vegetating, not flowering

 

[Dan Ultra]

Re: Help! Potentiol Plant Problem.

I agree with Dan. Forget the 18/6 your past that point if you see hairs. 12/12 is your cycle. Here's a chart I hope it helps. Also keep in mind that the Miricle grow 20-20-20 is a very basic nutrient. If you area has harsh water or anything else that would affect it's acidity you need a more complex nutrient system such as the "flora series"

Dude!! I am so glad you posted this! Thanks

 

[Pigeons420]

No problem. Plz feel free to follow my page always looking for advice and input New Member - Old Grower - From Canada!

 

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After changing the lighting schedule to 18/6, rather than 12/12, the plant has grown about 3-5 inches and appears to be doing great. Some areas of the plant have signs of SLIGHTLY curled leaves (literally only 2 sets of leaves have mild curling). The lowest leaves are a lighterish green, and the stems have turned a TINY bit purple. Again, this whole process has been very slow and drawn out over the week so I don't think it's something I can't control.

My plant is in the crossover stage between sort of flowering, and flowering. It is still making new growths on top with fresh leaves, and I think before I gave it that last dose of 20-20-20, it was indeed N deficient. With the yellowing of the leaves at the oldest growth, purple stems, and mild unnoticeable curling of some leaves, I've narrowed it down to just that. Here is a quote I pulled from --------- forums:

"Nitrogen Deficiencies:
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple. "

I don't think K is needed just yet. My plant is due to bud (according to the 7 week estimation) on January 7th. Should K be administered when the plant has stopped growing in height? Or should it be given when the plant first shows signs of hairs?

This doesn't make too much sense to me because if my plant had been showing signs of N Deficiency, then by giving it less N and more K I would have probably damaged the growth of the plant more, no?

 

[Dan Ultra]

this doesn't make too much sense to me because if my plant had been showing signs of n deficiency, then by giving it less n and more k i would have probably damaged the growth of the plant more, no?

This would be like saying, I added too much sugar to my coffee and now it tastes like watermelon.
More K will not have any effect on how much N your plant needs. If it needs N, it needs it. They are two different nutrients that the plant needs independently of each other.

 

[c526]

For autos I dont advice a 12/12 for flower,they will finish there life in solid 24/7 if thats your choice,Its the reason for them,simple and too the point.

I do agree they do need rest,20/4 and 18/6 seems to work with most auto flowers.that I have been following,I cant afford to waste a plant count,so I dont grow them.

as for you nutrient question,they all work together all the time,at different stages.here is a pinwheel to show relations of each nutrient

ph charts

 

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This would be like saying, I added too much sugar to my coffee and now it tastes like watermelon.
More K will not have any effect on how much N your plant needs. If it needs N, it needs it. They are two different nutrients that the plant needs independently of each other.

I hear what your saying UltraDan, I just took what you first said out of context a little bit. I thought you meant that regardless of whether it is showing signs of needing N or not, if it is the flowering phase, give it less N and more K. In the context of bud yield and what the plant needs during flowering I totally agree with you. Just a misunderstanding .

Thanks for all the help though, that pH chart will definitely come in handy. Gotta love the helpful culture of an avid marijuana grower