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If your room is 72 that means you are not getting enough of the 72 deg air into the tent.
You said when you open the tent, everything is fine.
You don't need air speed (although that could work)... You need air volume. You need to get more air in and out.
If you need to, cut a hole and add a 10" low speed fan or something.
What I mean is to simulate the 'open' tent with more vents and fans.
If you have an issue with the plants getting too much air speed, get larger fans and set the speed lower. The plants just need to be moved around and air needs to flow. The plants don't need 100MPH wind storm!
I had the same problem with my clones. They were almost uprooted, I put the fans on the lowest settings.
Focus on volume of air, not speed.
Dump the small fan and make the intake as large as you can. If the 6" is an inline < 300cfm, get rid of that and get a 10" or keep the 6" and add a 10".
Get as much exhaust as you can.
Forget the ducting on the intake. Cool air is all over the room, don't worry about access to the cool air. Focus on getting the cool air inside the tent.
The keep is getting the hot air out, get the small fan out of the way, make the intake larger, add a 10" to the exhaust, forget the intake duct.
You should be able to tell 72 from 80 by just standing in the room. I'd get a few different ones. The tube ones can work fine, I have one that the tube can move because it's loose. I adjust it base on the other ones.
I use two digital ones and compare them.
One simple test is to put it in water. You know water freezes at 32, so see what it reads when the water freezes. If it's correct there, it should be correct at 80.
One of my digital ones can go into ice water because it has an exposed probe, the other one can't. If you get a few of them, you can set them side by side and compare.
I don't know how to do humidity. I have two of those. One says 50 and the other says 30. I trust the digital one, but no way to tell that I know of, so I don't worry too much about it.
Just putting it in the freezer is not a valid test, you need to put it into a cup of water, let the water freeze. Right when if freezes it should be real close to 32. A freezer can be anything less than 32, I run my fridge (non-freezer side) near freezing. You should watch it as the water starts to freeze. Once it gets ice at the top of the cup, the temp should be very close to 32.
Yea, ok. You can take a glass/cup of water, sit it in the freezer, keep checking it till it has a layer of ice in the top.
Break the layer of ice, put the gauge in there and watch the temp. It should go very close to 32.
If it's a waterproof type, you can just drop it in there.
It should only take 2 min or so to completely change to the temp of the water. My guess is that it'll be 32 to 35 because water take a while to change temp.
Remember, water expands when frozen, using a glass might make it crack if you leave it in too long.
You don't have to use the freezer. Just make ie water. If it's mostly ice, the water will be 32F.
Cheap thermometers are horribly inaccurate. Karl's idea is a good one. Get several thermometers and read the temps all over the place. Put several thermometers in each spot, then use an average of their readings. That should be pretty accurate that way.
There is a pretty simple rule of thumb to start with. Hold your hand at the top of the plant. If it's too hot, ie you have to move your hand, it's too hot for the plants. The temps can vary a lot in just a couple inches around the lights. I was worried because my thermometer with the remote sensor was reading 90F where I had it hanging. By comparing it to other thermometers and moving them all over the room, I realized that thermometer read way high, and that my room was actually very good temp.
What are the temps outside there? So the AC is a window AC? I thought you meant the house had central AC.
Here is a way to think about what you're doing. Think of the room and the tent as separate energy systems. In the tent, you are inputing heat via the light and removing it via the fan. There is a rate of temp change. The larger volume of air, at a lower temperature, you move, the bigger Delta T. If the temps are too high, you gotta move more air and/or make the air coming in cooler. If opening the tent helps, you might just need to open up the intake further. You do NOT want to use the same fan you're using as exhaust as an intake fan. You want to maintain an negative pressure in the tent, so your intake needs to be just slightly less cfm than the exhaust. This is not referring to the fans, but the actual air moving. If you're using a carbon filter, your exhaust is not moving it's rated cfm. When you add in friction in the ducting, you might be getting half. Keep that in mind if you decide to put in a larger intake fan. I'd experiment with opening up the tent first. You may be able to intake enough air by simply opening up the intake more.
Now lets look at the room outside the tent. Here you have heat being input by the tent's exhaust and being removed by the AC. This makes your AC work harder than it needs to. It has to remove enough heat to compensate for not just the lights, but the normal rise of temps in the room, the fans, you, etc. You could make it's job much easier of you vent the tent outside. I would run a duct from your tent exhaust and have it exhaust next to the AC. That alone should make a HUGE difference. By reducing the load on the AC, it can make the room cooler. This means the intake air for the tent is cooler, making the tent cooler, making the exhaust cooler, making it easier on the AC, making the room cooler, etc.... Do you see where I'm going here?
I wouldn't worry about the accuracy of the AC's thermostat anyway. It's all relative. If you want the room to be 75F and you find the AC needs to be set to 70 to get it, then who cares? Just set it at 70F. Even if you bought another thermostat, there is no garuntee it will be calibrated any better. By measuring the temps yourself, you essentially calibrating the thermostat on your AC. You learn that 70F on the AC means 75F in the room. Make sense?