Hey good people I've been looking for this problem and have now spent two days without findings. Ok there are many issues on leave curling. But my leaves aren't curling so.to say. Just the very tip and not up down. So the very point or tip on each leaf is curled straight down im thinking some kind of lock out. But my ph is 6.4 6.5 there is some discolor on bottom leaves. Last watering 4 days ago. The only other thing that's going through this little brain is cold front. Im raised off the actual floor but it is a slab of cement. The weather has turned to fall we are having 40's in the night. I can't get pictures right now cause I'm in the turn and it lights out right now.there in total dark for a couple of hours all ready so im not opening until.tonight. open for any throught.. just any ideas. I know several of you have been growing for a long time so any of you have a one time one of my plants. Im open to hearing about it. You follow I knew that you could but would you.. not sure thanks and play nice with other when ever its possible
Leaves tip!
- Thread starter OldTex67
- Start date
garybo
Well-Known Member
OldTex, you may not have much of a problem, hopefully. What stage are the ladies in (veg, flower, etc.) and a pic or more would be helpful to submit an opinion.
Take care and spark up
Hey OldTex67,
Welcome to 420. To help we need more info - take a look at this link….., How to ask for grow support
tip clawing could be N toxicity or perhaps overwatering. I’ve often heard it said that she is pointing to her problem - the roots.
whats your grow media? have you amended it? with what? how often do you water? how much volume do you give in one session? what prompts you to addd more water? what kind of nutes? how often?
ditto on what Most Excellent Garybo sez - pics will help….
as far as basement - yup the concrete slab is a heat sink and can result in cold feet / wet feet neither of which are good for this crop. Insulate with sheet foam and elevate grow space above concrete slab. Suggest putting hygrometers down on floor surface in your grow area.
Think of it this way - it doesn’t matter if ambient temp is 80 degrees when your feet are encapsulated in a block of ice
Welcome to 420. To help we need more info - take a look at this link….., How to ask for grow support
tip clawing could be N toxicity or perhaps overwatering. I’ve often heard it said that she is pointing to her problem - the roots.
whats your grow media? have you amended it? with what? how often do you water? how much volume do you give in one session? what prompts you to addd more water? what kind of nutes? how often?
ditto on what Most Excellent Garybo sez - pics will help….
as far as basement - yup the concrete slab is a heat sink and can result in cold feet / wet feet neither of which are good for this crop. Insulate with sheet foam and elevate grow space above concrete slab. Suggest putting hygrometers down on floor surface in your grow area.
Think of it this way - it doesn’t matter if ambient temp is 80 degrees when your feet are encapsulated in a block of ice
- Thread starter
- #4
Ok four gorilla glue 4. Germinated first one broke dirt July 10th the others about two days apart.so around July 20th I had four healthy seedlings. Its my second indoor grow. This year. Fourth all together. First two were in an garage in Temple city calif 1982. Anyway I'm in oversized 5 gal bucket. Inside bottom 2 inches. Lava rock then a mixture of FF ocean farm, Schultz high end potting soil, Schultz high end top soil, perlite and around twenty pounds of FF frog.. I started the turn Friday the first.. I go 36 hours dark then 12/12 so today is second day of the turn all are around 28 to 29 inches. Tall and 8 or 9 node's. Except #4 four has been chasing from the start. So last week I noticed she wasn't growing. Not up or out.. Thursday I noticed the turn in the leaves
Plus she was sitting at 23 inches.sunday something. but a little light in color. Now I water about 5 days apart.. I keep a journal so I don't over water.. us newbies are famous for over watering.. so this last watering was just water. And the one before also.. I was feed FF Wholly Mackerel 3-1-0,FF grow big0-0.5-0.7, B-52 2-1-4 and cal-mag Xtra, and Schultz plant food 10-15-10. Next watering should be Wednesday or Thursday. But I have jumped from an MH Hortilux 400 to HIP Hortilux 1000, so my watering is going to change. I have my light set at furthest away around 36 inches over the next 8 or so days ill bring it in to 24 or so. My feeding is changing as well. Organic bloom booster 1-3-1, FF tiger bloom 2-8-4, organic bone meal phosphorus and calcium special Burpee 6-8-6, B-52 and Schultz plant boost. I'll mix two or three every other watering. I use two gal each watering so it comes out at around a half per ant about every 5 to 7days.now here's kicker during down time today # 4 grew three inches, but leaves and color have not changed. I posted pictures. Thanks guys. Im thinking it was a lock out and the two straight watering flushed it.
Plus she was sitting at 23 inches.sunday something. but a little light in color. Now I water about 5 days apart.. I keep a journal so I don't over water.. us newbies are famous for over watering.. so this last watering was just water. And the one before also.. I was feed FF Wholly Mackerel 3-1-0,FF grow big0-0.5-0.7, B-52 2-1-4 and cal-mag Xtra, and Schultz plant food 10-15-10. Next watering should be Wednesday or Thursday. But I have jumped from an MH Hortilux 400 to HIP Hortilux 1000, so my watering is going to change. I have my light set at furthest away around 36 inches over the next 8 or so days ill bring it in to 24 or so. My feeding is changing as well. Organic bloom booster 1-3-1, FF tiger bloom 2-8-4, organic bone meal phosphorus and calcium special Burpee 6-8-6, B-52 and Schultz plant boost. I'll mix two or three every other watering. I use two gal each watering so it comes out at around a half per ant about every 5 to 7days.now here's kicker during down time today # 4 grew three inches, but leaves and color have not changed. I posted pictures. Thanks guys. Im thinking it was a lock out and the two straight watering flushed it.
- Thread starter
- #5
Right you are. I work out doors and my feet sweat then freeze once that happens you can't get warm again the rest of the day. I work for roofing co. I brought home some ISO it's used on commercial jobs its really tough and condensed stuff.. but for eare on my part the same three pictures. Ill fix it when I get back. Gonna go break a few racks and thanks oh #4 grew several inches today during down time
- Thread starter
- #6
Prolly need @Emilya here but the 2 inches of lava rock in bottom has perched your water table up higher than it should normally be… plus with plastic buckets and plants in a scrog net there is no way to tip the containers to steep 45 degree angle to make buckets pee out excess water which would help drying the soil out faster
that’s a rather odd mix of nute products…. no help there
suspect overwater by not waiting long enough between water sessions to allow soil to dry out all the way to bottom. maybe elevate containers above saucers or drip pans so your chicks feet don’t sit in a puddle and use fan to move air underneath…. but the great part is you are seeing new growth
that’s a rather odd mix of nute products…. no help there
suspect overwater by not waiting long enough between water sessions to allow soil to dry out all the way to bottom. maybe elevate containers above saucers or drip pans so your chicks feet don’t sit in a puddle and use fan to move air underneath…. but the great part is you are seeing new growth
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi @OldTex67, welcome!
Most of the problem here seems to be weak roots that cant produce lift and at the moment I am not thinking that there is anything wrong with the nutes, pH or soil mix. The light might be a little close judging from the reactions of the top leaves, but again, not a crisis.
Everything I am seeing seems to be in line with the problems that we associate with a perched water table. By putting rocks in the bottom you have guaranteed that the last 2 inches is never going to dry out. The lower roots have probably never gotten a good hit of oxygen and have been underwater for most of their life and as a result of this they never have really developed as they should down there among the lava rocks. The key to fixing this is to let the container dry out as much as possible, and then keep doing that between waterings, but before fixing this problem at least once or twice to invigorate the roots, you are charging forward into bloom.
The plant is a survivor and it will struggle along and produce product for you, despite this abuse... but there was a better way to do this, and already the yield that you could have had has been affected by this slow start. The rocks at the bottom are definitely a no-no, but we also need to teach you about the wet/dry cycle and how it changes with each watering, so that next time you can develop the strongest roots possible in your containers from the very beginning.
If I was handed this problem I would belay the order to go to bloom at the moment and I would give it 2 more weeks, or 3 good watering cycles to get the roots going while allowing them to dry out each time.
The problem is that it is going to be extremely hard to tell when the proper time to water is, since they are already drooping and with the rocks in there, the lift the plant method of determining how much water is left in there, is not able to be used. I would go for an actual start of a wilt as an indicator, instead of a droop, and then water... and do that 3 times.... and by the end of this ICU treatment, the leaves should have started to all lift up above horizontal, with the top leaves praying to the light. When you are able to finally get that much lift, ie water pressure in the trunk, the roots will be mostly healed, and then it will be an easy matter to tell when they need water... the lower third of the plant will start to droop while the upper leaves are still praying. That signal means that you have around 12 hours of water left in the container. Be patient and wait that 12 hours, and then water to runoff again... don't try to guess for the plants how much water they need either... let the system show you and water to runoff.
These major changes in your watering should fix the problem you are having. I don't see any other way really... since the problem here is the rocks and your well meaning intentions with the watering can. Good luck, but feel better knowing that watering issues, and these rocks, are very common mistakes made by new growers of weeds. You are in good company.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thank you for the feed back. My buckets have ten one ine holes in the bottom and 8 one inch cut outs on the side/bottom. As I stated earlier I thought it was lock out. After I got the ph down just a little I mixed up cal-mag plus then just water. They all are back to three inches a day and sitting around 38 to 40 inches now.. when I asked for help they were 27 to 29.. but I have waited on the turn. I didn't want to start flower stage with a sick one.. so I must of gotten some wrong info on the Lava rocks. I was told that it helps the drainage and helps the lower roots expand.. thanks again for the info and the info on where to go and read up.
- Thread starter
- #10
Hello and thanks again for the info. I know now that I Don't know how to water correctly. Have question for you.. I did the Scrog so the lower branches could get more light. But its really not working. The sun/water leaves have gotten so big they block all. Couple of them are 11 points. Now out doors we would cut them and the lower leaves would step up so to speak.. I know no grooming in flower stage. So im stuck with it. But what do you do. Do you cut the leaves just before the turn and force the soon to be buds to grow out a little before they turn. Also I believe this is why you lollipop. There are 12 or 14 nodes and the bottom three are the weak. So what the four smallest you cut and Graff. Just curious and thanks again your publishing is quite good. Have a good one and remember play nice with others when possibleHi @OldTex67, welcome!
Most of the problem here seems to be weak roots that cant produce lift and at the moment I am not thinking that there is anything wrong with the nutes, pH or soil mix. The light might be a little close judging from the reactions of the top leaves, but again, not a crisis.
Everything I am seeing seems to be in line with the problems that we associate with a perched water table. By putting rocks in the bottom you have guaranteed that the last 2 inches is never going to dry out. The lower roots have probably never gotten a good hit of oxygen and have been underwater for most of their life and as a result of this they never have really developed as they should down there among the lava rocks. The key to fixing this is to let the container dry out as much as possible, and then keep doing that between waterings, but before fixing this problem at least once or twice to invigorate the roots, you are charging forward into bloom.
The plant is a survivor and it will struggle along and produce product for you, despite this abuse... but there was a better way to do this, and already the yield that you could have had has been affected by this slow start. The rocks at the bottom are definitely a no-no, but we also need to teach you about the wet/dry cycle and how it changes with each watering, so that next time you can develop the strongest roots possible in your containers from the very beginning.
If I was handed this problem I would belay the order to go to bloom at the moment and I would give it 2 more weeks, or 3 good watering cycles to get the roots going while allowing them to dry out each time.
The problem is that it is going to be extremely hard to tell when the proper time to water is, since they are already drooping and with the rocks in there, the lift the plant method of determining how much water is left in there, is not able to be used. I would go for an actual start of a wilt as an indicator, instead of a droop, and then water... and do that 3 times.... and by the end of this ICU treatment, the leaves should have started to all lift up above horizontal, with the top leaves praying to the light. When you are able to finally get that much lift, ie water pressure in the trunk, the roots will be mostly healed, and then it will be an easy matter to tell when they need water... the lower third of the plant will start to droop while the upper leaves are still praying. That signal means that you have around 12 hours of water left in the container. Be patient and wait that 12 hours, and then water to runoff again... don't try to guess for the plants how much water they need either... let the system show you and water to runoff.
These major changes in your watering should fix the problem you are having. I don't see any other way really... since the problem here is the rocks and your well meaning intentions with the watering can. Good luck, but feel better knowing that watering issues, and these rocks, are very common mistakes made by new growers of weeds. You are in good company.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Things happen, even in bloom, that either cause or necessitate the removal of some of the leaves. Contrary to what you are reading, this is not a crisis. If there is a leaf that is in the way of a bud getting light, I would chop it, without hesitation. As long as you don't go too heavy or make a habit of it, a bit of trimming in bloom is not going to cause trouble. Trying to do a full defoliation too late into bloom though, is asking for a hermi.
I trim out all the growth down to bare branches in the lower third of my plants. I do this in the last week of veg. After 2 weeks of 12/12 the plants stretch quite a bit, and I do another evaluation then of what needs to go, and I usually end up doing another decent trim around the 2 weeks of bloom point. If I am doing some cloning, that trim at the end of veg will result in a good handful of potential clones that are taken from the lowest two branches and some of the growth in the middle.
