Should I switch to LED?
- Thread starter tomh2b
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Tony Urban
Well-Known Member
Well it depends. Why are you looking to switch?
I think it’s generally accepted that you won’t get the same yield as HPS.
I use LEDs for a few reasons; I don’t want to use too much electricity, I don’t want the heat, and I don’t want to change bulbs or piss around.
I accept that: the initial purchase is costly and I won’t get the same yields as hps.
I purchased a Dwarf Star from Perfect Sun, as well as a Fusion Pro 400 from canadagrowlights.ca. So many good LEDs, COBs, and others out there to choose from.
I will say that I have seen some great LED grows (search Hyena Merica) that showed both HPS then LED and in both he kills it.
I think it’s generally accepted that you won’t get the same yield as HPS.
I use LEDs for a few reasons; I don’t want to use too much electricity, I don’t want the heat, and I don’t want to change bulbs or piss around.
I accept that: the initial purchase is costly and I won’t get the same yields as hps.
I purchased a Dwarf Star from Perfect Sun, as well as a Fusion Pro 400 from canadagrowlights.ca. So many good LEDs, COBs, and others out there to choose from.
I will say that I have seen some great LED grows (search Hyena Merica) that showed both HPS then LED and in both he kills it.
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- #3
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- #4
Slowpuffer
Well-Known Member
I grow in an unheated bedroom and if I switched to led, then I'd have to heat It. As it is now, the 745 hps heats it. So the $$ I would save running the led, would be used to heat the room. unless the growers are Inflating the yields, these new Q boards & cob led combinations are coming close to replacing 1000w hps. And the prices are dropping !!
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Jackalope
Well-Known Member
145000 lumens says it all. you just can't argue with the bud density and production you get from that much light. I ran stuff in similar situations before. Using the light as heat as well as light. Temps in the tent varied a lot as my space was very cold at night time temps.
I am sure you run into the simular things late in the light cycle after the tent has warmed up the air outside the tent. After the intake air has warmed up the tent temps go up also.
Check into air cooled hoods. You still warm the room and the tent temps stay lower. Average tent temps are better now then they have ever been. With just that I am going to get better yields.
I have looked into the change myself. Price of anything has to get a hell of a lot better when they can't even keep up with the lumens put out by HID lights.
Right now all you do is pay tons more and get less light. Everything about situation,so all lights have their place. I made a mistake when I ran my first 1000 watt light. Everything else fails by comparison so no upgrades for me. I don't think I can get a 1500 to work in a 48 x 48 tent LMAO
I am sure you run into the simular things late in the light cycle after the tent has warmed up the air outside the tent. After the intake air has warmed up the tent temps go up also.
Check into air cooled hoods. You still warm the room and the tent temps stay lower. Average tent temps are better now then they have ever been. With just that I am going to get better yields.
I have looked into the change myself. Price of anything has to get a hell of a lot better when they can't even keep up with the lumens put out by HID lights.
Right now all you do is pay tons more and get less light. Everything about situation,so all lights have their place. I made a mistake when I ran my first 1000 watt light. Everything else fails by comparison so no upgrades for me. I don't think I can get a 1500 to work in a 48 x 48 tent LMAO
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- #8
ive been using a aircooled tube since the beginning. but still, my 6" 440cfm fan is JUST enough to keep the temps under 29celsius when light is on.. and in summer have to add A/C in the tent (which add another vent outside the house) even if tent is in the basement which is under 20celcius
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GatorGumbo
Active Member
If you can make your own ducting that removes heat directly from the LED fixture then you won't have to run AC or even vent otherwise for temps. I get 75F on the dot with two 600w using them with direct ducting in a ~150cf space.
I switched to LED because of electricity cost and heat. I have to take 100% of my expenditures right on the chin, probably like most of us here, so it matters to me. Dimmable feature is a huge plus, raising powerful lights can easily stretch the plants whereas a lower power at the same distance is less likely to do so.
I switched to LED because of electricity cost and heat. I have to take 100% of my expenditures right on the chin, probably like most of us here, so it matters to me. Dimmable feature is a huge plus, raising powerful lights can easily stretch the plants whereas a lower power at the same distance is less likely to do so.
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- #11
GatorGumbo
Active Member
Run the filter exhausting into the room, like in a closed setup. Duct out the LED heat to outside separately. You don't have to of course, that's just what I do.
