Storing & amending organic outdoor container soil for re-use next year

My question on storage:

I have read good things about the reuse of organic living soil. My question here is, how best to store it between growing seasons? I have read postings by some who prefer to tip it all out, re-amend, and use it to fill containers for the next year, sometimes letting it dry off and rewetting upon re-use. I am probably going to try a no-till or 'light surface till' approach, where I will lightly, finger rake in re-amendments, and leave them to cook/settle in, until I re-use those containers in about 6 months or so. I only harvested my last grow 2 weeks ago and had let the soil dry out a lot over the plant's last week. I wondered what is the considered approach to keeping such a container of living organic soil, is it best left outside to receive natural rainfall to keep it moist so the soil biology can keep developing, or better to keep it under cover to manage and regulate watering of it? Or, is it preferable to let it dry out a bit like a bought bag of soil would be and re-wet only upon re-use? My containers are home made airpots (drilled out) so if in heavy rain they will not stay water logged but would nonetheless receive some sort of soil flush if left/kept in the open outside.

Re-amendments to last years super soil:

I am wondering what are other people's guidelines for re-amending organic soil for re-use next season. What last year's grow I took an organic super soil approach, I couldn't find the exact ingredients of other super soil recipes so ended up buying a bunch of similar stuff and putting it together somewhat conservatively (approx 1/2 cup of each amendment per cubic foot whereas some recipes had upwards of 2 cups of each/most amendments), I was conservative with the view it is easier to add more later than take away excess.

The one ingredient that almost all recipes had was the inclusion of a lime component, in my mix I had also included bio-char and neem meal, both of which were said to have a 'liming' effect, I decided rather than risk the pH going up too much that I would not include lime. Long story short, my last grow started flowering looking really good, only to then get into possible nute lockout, yellowing and slow growth. So for my next grow I am planning on adding 1/2 - 1 cup lime for each of my 50liter/13 gallon containers, and also perhaps a small amount of gypsum. I like what I have read about the no-till approach, and I plan on adding lime and maybe gypsum this week by shallowly 'finger raking' the soil and mixing it in to roughly the top 3 inches, with the view to not overly disturb the existing soil biology. I plan on putting the lime in first, then in perhaps a month adding about 1/2 cup per cubic foot of re-amendments for those ingredients I judge to have been used up by the previous year's grow. I wont be re-using the containers for another 6 months so that should give a good amount of time for the soil to settle/cook before re-use.

For those folks who already re-use their organic living soil from previous grows, does the above sound a reasonable approach to take, is there anything usefully different that I should consider? I am happy and appreciate any thoughts on this whether similar or different - it's all good!
 
I run no-till organic soil.

I have a specific soil recipe that I started with. I do not recommend making substitutes or changing qty of amendments.

It' Coots recipe from way back when we were working on it and dialing it in.

Very few amendments.

THE most important input is the Humus portion which is a mix of home made vermi-compost and EWC.

When you use the term "liming agent", I assume what you are talking about its calcium?


I use several sources of Ca - none are pure CaCo3 (calcium carbonate)

Long term Ca:
Crustacean Meal
Oyster Shell flour
Gypsum

EWC and Kelp meal will also have Ca available.

Calcium is a element that needs to be in SOLUBLE form for the plant to uptake.

Soluble:
Meaning Ca and other nutrients have been broken down by the micro-herd and they bind with water molecules so that the plant roots can uptake it. Just adding in Ca won't do much except change the pH of the soil enough to likely stunt growth at best. Gypsum is SOMEWHAT soluble but not very much. Gypsum will not change the soil pH.

Coots recipe I use:

Compare whats here to what you used.

In this recipe there are no substitutions with ingredients. IF you want to go no-till you need to start off with a proper mix and get that soil tested. Then figure out your water thing.

Coots recipe can be used no-till or it can be used run to run and tilled (dumped out and re-used).

To answer your question about storage. You can do 2 things.
If no-till just grow a cover crop when not growing cannabis - red clover is 1. Then just clear a small space for a new cannabis plant when needed. You need to water this.
2nd thing is you can store your soil in a bin with a lid - and be sure its damp. With the lid on it will retain moisture indefinitely or pretty close. I sometimes add a cup of water. I store extra soil in a 36 gal tote and keep re-using that over and over for VEG plants.

Here's the Coots mix from 2018 :

Acadian Kelp Meal @ 1 Cup per cubic foot
Neem Cake and Karanja Cake 50/50 Mix @ 1/2 to 1 cup per cubic foot
Crustacean Meal @ 1 Cup per cubic foot
Malted Barley @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot (ground fine in a coffee grinder)

Gypsum Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Brix Blend Basalt @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Glacial Rock Dust @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot
Oyster Flour @ 1 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Mycos - add 1-2tbs per plant at up-pot @ the roots ***
must come into contact with the roots at planting.

Mix the above with:

Quart of EWC (can be as much as 25% of the humus portion)
EWC = earth worm casting
1/3 humus = Compost/EWC/Vermicompost
1/3 aeration = Rice hulls or Perl-lite
1/3 CSPM = Canadian Spagnum Peat Moss (look on bag for country of origin = Canada)

Amend at up pot with 1/4 cup of the amendment mix + a few tbs of Malted Barley ground fine and 1/2 cup EWC then into flower. Add some mycos here if you feel you want to (I do but it's probably not necessary).


If you have any questions please ask.

If you like your soil mix you have already. Get it tested. If you need help finding a place to get a soil test, I can help you.
 
Thanks so much for your full and detailed reply, very much appreciated.

>>When you use the term "liming agent", I assume what you are talking about its calcium?
I was more meaning it less about it's nutrient/calcium content but instead merely as giving a pH raising effect, as that was what I had read occurs when using Neem meal and Bio-char, which is what I had in my last soil mixture. My thinking was narrowly focused in this pH aspect. However, I think in regard to organic no-till that using lime or dolomite lime for the intention of raising pH is less of a consideration, and more important is feeding the soil/micro herd and then the pH will take care of itself. So I was talking about it from this angle which is probably wrong and distracting from creating a better result.

I take your point of keeping to the recipe ingredients and quantities. I cannot as yet locate any Crustacean meal, oyster flour, Karanja cake in NZ, but hopefully can find some (if anyone reading from NZ has located them, please shout out!).

I presume you are using this mixture as a total container filler, i.e. it is not just a partial 1/4 or 1/3 fill of the container like in a super soil approach.

Cheers
 
NZ - there's a source for the nutrient mix I use. I'll see if I can find it. I think there's a place that makes the soil mix actually.

Neem cake and Karanja cake - good, you don't have to worry about pH with them. It wont change it.
You don't know your soil pH unless you have it tested in a lab. So don't over stress on it.

Crustacean meal aka - Crab shell meal, lobster shell meal. They will have something very similar at the local feed store. Yes called "meal" because its added into the food for our hoofed animal friends to keep them healthy. Usually where you can find Oyster Shell flour as well.

Hens that lay eggs need a Ca amendment to make the shells hard. So there will be something local.
 
I would be very happy to follow the recipe ingredients exactly, but I can't get exactly everything on the list. I think this is why folk in different places to where the recipes originate often find they have to concoct something close but nevertheless different in attempting to replicate it. I did that last year with what started as an attempt to follow a super soil recipe but having to guess close substitutes for what I couldn't find, and then seeing a few extra things that weren't on the recipe but were mentioned elsewhere in high regard, like the bio-char and neem cake, that I 'chucked' them in too. I can fully appreciate that if you don't follow the recipe you cannot expect the same result, hope for it yes, but not expect it. I'd like to think that it is possible to make some substitutions and still be not too far away, but of course such a recipe has been tested, evolved, and as you say, dialed in, of course changing it throws a whole bunch of unknowns into it.

Of the ingredients, some I am drawing a blank trying to locate;
Acadian Kelp Meal - yes
Neem Cake - yes
Karanja Cake - haven't been able to find
Crustacean Meal - unable to find
Malted Barley - yes

Gypsum Dust - yes
Brix Blend Basalt - not exactly, I have paramagnetic basalt rock dust
Glacial Rock Dust - not exactly, I have reactive phosphate rock dust
Oyster Flour - yes, can get but so far in much larger than ideal quantity

Mycos - yes

Mix the above with:

Quart of EWC - yes
1/3 humus
- yes
1/3 aeration - yes
1/3 CSPM
- yes/no, I can get local Spagnum Peat Moss but not Canadian

So I don't feel I can make exactly Coot's mix. The rock dust components I have I am guessing would/could be fairly close substitutes. Similarly, local NZ Spagnum Peat Moss is hopefully not massively different from the Canadian variety. For the Karanja meal if I cannot locate it, then maybe doubling up on Neem meal will be ok?
I cannot seem to find Crustacean meal. One place lists a Chitosan product that may be close but they are no longer are currently listing it as available. Crustacean meal is something I read about last year and tried to find it for my soil grow then but couldn't locate any, it seems an excellent amendment to include too. I wondered if some sort aquarium fish food could be found that would consist of a similar crustacean ingredient. (if anyone from NZ is reading and knows of where to find any of the above please chime in! Someone in NZ must have tried to create Coot's mix with what's available here). I wondered whether insect frass would be similar but I was unable to find any of that here in NZ.
 
You're good.
Karanja Cake I get from Ahismsa. Its from India so I would expect you should be able to source it. Maybe not on the radar yet down under for soil amendment.

Insect frass is a good input.

Peat moss - yes get the local stuff. Way to pricey to ship from Canada. Europe its hard to get I think because it comes from Scotland and they use it for heating and making Scotch.

The reason for us here in the States getting the Canadian version is due to the higher quality. Some of the peat sold in stores is well prolly not even peat moss.
In Canada the Peat industry is highly regulated. They value their natural resources. Which is a good thing.

Crustacean Meal - check with your local feed store also they likely have Gypsum powder and Oyster shell flour. There will be some sort of Ca feed that is fed to chickens and other livestock - ask what they use down your way. You want the fine ground.

Crustacean Meal - Shrimp meal, lobster meal crab meal... they are all the same and vary depending on time of year and why we just call it Crustacean instead of a specific species of crab. They do harvest crabs in NZ right?? They make meal for animals with the waste product (shells). Positive about that just have to research it.

Can use fish meal but its not the same and go easy with it until you're comfortable with the outcome.

Hope that helps a little
 
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