AdaminCO
Well-Known Member
Between 6.5-7 sounds like you need a pH pen.
In soil you need to come in around 6.2-6.5.
In soil you need to come in around 6.2-6.5.
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Between 6.5-7 sounds like you need a pH pen.
In soil you need to come in around 6.2-6.5.
Do you not mix first, the adjust pH to the same thing every time?I already have a PH pen, also PH meter for soil.
But if you've seen the video, with the nutes PH usually near 6.
To balance the difference for Cal/Mag resolving(6.5-7 is the best) when I give fresh water usually its between 6.5-7 but most of times its 6.6-8, so I don't mind with dealing ph down every single time because; I think that, giving little higher after 3 days will balance the ph range in the soil. Thats why I'm doing this and I didn't buy advanced cal/mag to not reducing the PH.
But also I've read that today Advanced says "we can keep the PH range for a week in the soil" thanks to you I realised that just maybe I should stop feeding 1 plant with the Advanced set for few weeks to increase PH range in the soil and only give Cal/mag in this time to see anything happens.
Also I don't think this litle bit of PH change can cause of this unique problem after 5th generation of clones.
Do you not mix first, the adjust pH to the same thing every time?
Seems like a lot of unnecessary work.
With all do respect, if you were doing it correctly, why have you been seeing the same issue for 5 generations?
And BTW, the soil pH meter is junk.
You’ll never get an accurate reading from that.
In soil, mix all your nutes, then adjust to 6.2-6.5.
You soil pH will not “change“ unless you add dolomite lime or something like that.
You pH drifts as it goes wet to dry, so in a perfect world, your soil at base level should be 6.5.
I believe that particular nute line is for hydro only, not soil/soil less.I didn't say that. I said I'm measuring PH ofc, but deciding it with the way I told you.
Also this problem started after 5th generation clone not for 5 generations.
Yes soil PH meter is not accurate and I don't trust it but its something atleast.
---"In soil, mix all your nutes, then adjust to 6.2-6.5."
I think you're not reading carefully. The PH perfect tech with the Advanced nutes it doesnt matter what you added inside the mix. It's somehow reducing or increasing the PH between 5.8-6.2, even with the ph up and down, you need to use too much to find the 6.4 - 6.5. Please watch the video first. It's at bottom of the first page.
---"You soil pH will not “change“ unless you add dolomite lime or something like that."
PH is a value required to dissolve nutrients in the soil. if you fed nutrients with 5.8-6.2 ph, and if a group of nutrients remains in the soil because of this wrong ph range, then if you added 6.5-6.8 ph after 3 days, it will dissolve the soluble nutrients with the high ph eventually. in real world nothing is awesome. Jamaican people can grow it in swamps if you've seen the strain hunters video. Do you think that swamp and lake has 6.5 of ph range?
I know the way is not the proper way to do this also it may harm (not sure cause hydros are ok for the range) to roots but in chemistry its not wrong.
So because of the nutes I've used I'm giving at monday feed with ph near 6.0 and after 3 days later I give 6.5-6.8 fresh water to balance it.
But again also I don't believe that the PH can cause anything like this because even new leaves corrupting in few days. It should take little longer than that. Also the touch and the protective layer on leaves is good. My problem only consist with the color.
He’s in soil though.IMHO, this is just a genetic mutation that didn't start showing up until now. Some phenos have mottled leaves. Also, the AN PH Perfect line works great in hydro, so unless you got a bad batch, it's probably not the PH.