I’ve got 7 seedling that all popped around the the 12th of may they grew good for about a week but now they’re showing all kinds of problems like yellowing and possibly nutrient lockout? I think I might’ve used too much peat moss in my soil or something I tried flushing yesterday with the correct ph water why won’t these things grow? And what do I have to do to save this!
3rd grow going poorly please help
- Thread starter Jongavin1
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Skunksta
Well-Known Member
soil/peat pe charged?
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- #3
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- #4
Pe charged?
Skunksta
Well-Known Member
As in feeding nutrients.Some soil will come pre charged so you dont need to feed for a few weeks.
Ps. look hungry to me but wait on others to chime in im a coco grower and when in soil never peat.
Ps. look hungry to me but wait on others to chime in im a coco grower and when in soil never peat.
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- #6
I’m reusing last years soil with a little compost and so they’re could’ve been some left over but neither of them came pre charged
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Peat has a natural pH of 3-4.5, you need to add a buffer to raise pH in the medium. Add some gypsum and add Epsom salt to your nutrients, 0.5-1g per gallon. Or buy Calimagic and use that.
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You’re the man so a gram of each in my nutrients? I’ll try that soon as they’re ready for water and update you.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
If you need a quick fix you should go with something like Calimagic, it's readily available. Then adding gypsum when you or reuse/reamend your soil. Another thing you could add is small amounts of potassium bicarbonate or potassium silicate, they both act as a pH buffer.
I personally use Calimagic and Potassium silicate in coir to keep pH stable. You could try mixing 1/4 tsp dolomite lime and 1/2tsp gypsum, mix that with half a gallon of water, adding gypsum first and using as one time application. Dolomite lime to instantly raise pH and adding Mg and gypsum for the slow release of Calcium to keep pH in range
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I have botaniacare calmag will that work or should I go get this calimagic you’re talking about. Also wondering if any garden lime from the hardware store will work or if I should get the real dolomite lime off Amazon
If'n it was me, I'd go buy some fresh soil and repot those babies in it. Why bother chasing unknown problems, and play the too much/not enough game. Start with good fresh soil and keep it simple.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Yes that's going to work! Cal-mag from Botanicare that is. Add recommended dosage and then lower when they've recovered. I only add 75ppm Calimagic to my source water.
Check runoff pH to know what to do but it's probably way low. If you have and EC/ppm meter check that to. To high EC may also lower pH out of range. I would not repot but water with low dose Cal-mag solution and check runoff.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I reuse soil all the time, so I don't think it is that. Also all the talk about using additional supplements or nutrients seems to be a bit off base too.. the needs of these little plants are few right now and I see no signs of deficiency in the leaves and your cotyledons look good. Also, checking the runoff in soil is a pointless endeavor... it can tell you nothing useful. And, many soils have a little peat in them, but that doesn't mean you need to do anything special because of it regarding pH or anything else... if your potting soil is less than 30% peat or sphagnum moss, it is a non issue.
So I want to look at other issues. First, are these autos? It is not commonly known that around the 2nd week of growth an auto will usually stall out, seemingly not growing. If one continues to water during this time, and even worse, continues to feed, you will overload the plant and start an overfeeding/overwatering cycle that can spiral out of control.
I think this is all that is happening, from the looks of things here. I don't see any obvious signs of malnutrition, but maybe overwatering. I feel it is critical that during this 2nd week stall out in Autos, that one needs to give the plants the hands off treatment, and force them to use the water that they already have, before adding more. A strong wet/dry cycle is imperative at this stage as well as intelligent use of the lift method to tell you when to water. Please read my tutorial on the proper way to water a potted plant for more information on how to set up and maintain a wet/dry cycle as it changes in duration as the roots grow.
So I want to look at other issues. First, are these autos? It is not commonly known that around the 2nd week of growth an auto will usually stall out, seemingly not growing. If one continues to water during this time, and even worse, continues to feed, you will overload the plant and start an overfeeding/overwatering cycle that can spiral out of control.
I think this is all that is happening, from the looks of things here. I don't see any obvious signs of malnutrition, but maybe overwatering. I feel it is critical that during this 2nd week stall out in Autos, that one needs to give the plants the hands off treatment, and force them to use the water that they already have, before adding more. A strong wet/dry cycle is imperative at this stage as well as intelligent use of the lift method to tell you when to water. Please read my tutorial on the proper way to water a potted plant for more information on how to set up and maintain a wet/dry cycle as it changes in duration as the roots grow.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
From my understanding he's using mineral based synthetic nutrients in a mostly soilless medium? He should treat those plants more like coir grown plants IMO. Runoff pH is crucial and essential running salts and most literature will tell you this.
Here's a post from Dr. Bugbee himself:
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
First, I see no reference to mostly soilless, other than your assumption that this is so. @Jongavin1 said that he is re-using soil, with added compost.
Making assumptions like this without all the facts could wreck a grow. Since we are not using coco, any reference to using runoff is totally off base. Runoff measurements out of soil are meaningless and should not be encouraged.
Quotes from Bugbee don't help to convince me. He is a paid scientist employed by a light company, certainly not an independent scientist and as far as far red and UV, I feel the real world has already moved way beyond the experiments he did years ago, although they keep being rehashed over and over again on the forums. As far as his expertise in soil goes... he has none and should not have even been mentioned here.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Please don't add supplements until you see a real need for them in the leaves. Your plants are not damaged, they are simply growing slowly. We should look for a cause for that, not a wish list of extra things you can throw at the plants.
Notwithstanding the views of others, which I do not dispute...
I would dunk them in a mix of CaMg & K rich seaweed organic fert [eg Tomorite] to also replenish humic/fulvic/aminos and all that other soil gubbins, I have never seen that treatment not improve a plant
Best of luck, they look OK to me
I would dunk them in a mix of CaMg & K rich seaweed organic fert [eg Tomorite] to also replenish humic/fulvic/aminos and all that other soil gubbins, I have never seen that treatment not improve a plant
Best of luck, they look OK to me
Wastei
Well-Known Member
His plants are clearly dying and you want him to rug his shoulders and call it a day? They need better watering practice and a pH balanced complete plant food in low dose say 0.3-0.4 EC / 150-200ppm. My two cents.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
It's not wise talking shit about Dr.Bruce Bugbee on a Cannabis forum, heads up!
Quote:
Bruce Bugbee is an American scientist. His work includes research into space farming with NASA and at Utah State University, where he is the Director of the Crop Physiology Laboratory.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
sorry... clearly dying? With intact green cotyledons? They look pretty healthy to me.
Shrug his shoulders and call it a day? Did I say that? I tried to explain why they have stalled, and pointed him to the best guide to a better watering practice that I know of.
Sidepoint... what is a pH balanced plant food?
