Cha ching

FoolishWise Guy

Well-Known Member
Hi iv bought this brand but there is not enough information about was wondering if anyone can help

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Iv searched around doesnt really say when to use it
What week would u say is late flowering
Find a Fox farms feeding chart. It's used staring week 5 of switching to 12/12 and continue to harvest.
 
It looks like a bloom booster 9-50-10. I don't know if I'd be in a big hurry to feed it to my girls.
 
I'd be careful with that stuff ,I think if you feed at recommend dosages you might cook your girls. I'd half that strength at first and see what happens. :thumb:
 
Please note on the above feeding chart that bloom starts on week 5. Week 9 where you start using that product, would actually be toward the end of week 5 of bloom.

Before that you want to run Open Sesame at the beginning of bloom to help create more bud sites on your plants and you use that supplement from the last week of veg to the end of stretch in bloom. Then you use the Beasty Bloomz weeks 3 and 4 of bloom, to build those bud sites, and the Cha Ching at the end to build up the terpenes and resins in your final product.
 
I'd be careful with that stuff ,I think if you feed at recommend dosages you might cook your girls. I'd half that strength at first and see what happens. :thumb:
Again, I take exception to the advice given here, however well meaning it might be. I used these nutrients for several years, just as recommended, and I never hurt my plants with it. I love FF nutrients and if I hadn't gone organic, I would still be using them, at full strength. If you want to grow big strong plants, garden like a boss.
 
Again, I take exception to the advice given here, however well meaning it might be. I used these nutrients for several years, just as recommended, and I never hurt my plants with it. I love FF nutrients and if I hadn't gone organic, I would still be using them, at full strength. If you want to grow big strong plants, garden like a boss.
Since you have experience with the product we can take your word on the dosage. I personally don't use it so i did a little research From what reviews I read on the product people stated that they burnt their plants at full dosage, given that info i thought it pertinent to inform the op of that fact. Its never a bad idea to use a new product sparingly at first to see how your plant reacts to it.
 
Since you have experience with the product we can take your word on the dosage. I personally don't use it so i did a little research From what reviews I read on the product people stated that they burnt their plants at full dosage, given that info i thought it pertinent to inform the op of that fact. Its never a bad idea to use a new product sparingly at first to see how your plant reacts to it.
One of the most common pieces of misinformation that we see on the internet is people (keyboard gurus) advising others not to follow the manufacturers recommendations on feeding levels. Online want-to-be gurus abound, and they know that is safe advice to tell people to feed less, and you constantly hear the phrase, less is more.

Less is not more. Less is less. You can follow this sort of timid advice and generally not have any problems with feeding or the plants themselves, because the plants will be fine with a simple subsistence dosage of the nutrients. You aren't stressing anything trying to get them to grow faster or bigger and the "guru" looks good because everything worked, and the gardener is happy because nothing screwed up and they ended up getting product.

This however is not the point of feeding high priced nutrient lines to our plants... bare subsistence. We fertilize and buy all the many products that FF and others put out, so that we can grow superior plants... huge honking danker than dank plants that can win the plant of the month and all that. Can you do that on subsistence nutes? Not a chance.

So yeah... you can read all over the place about any nutrient line out there... less is more... go 1/4 strength, half strength... but it is all nonsense if you really want to do better than just keeping your plants alive until harvest. Carefully consider the last line of my signature lines... I find it to be a good general answer to all of this.
 
So your suggesting every new grower hammer their girls with nutrients at full strength. Isn't that why we che ec or ppm ,to dial in to an acceptable amount . Nutrient companies want to sell you as much as they can , suggested dosages of most nutrients will put you over the ppm over what most plants can handle imo. Isnt it standard practice to gradually dial up Nutrient levels till you get to an acceptable level your girls can handle and then stop at that pont.
 
Possible that the problem starts when growers grab only part of the nutrient line and jump in with that. If the plant is not 100% then products like Cha Ching are stronger than the plant has adapted to. If the plant has been growing at half rate then the nutrient will have to be given at 1/2 dose.

If the grower follows the Fox Farm schedule and has been giving Fox Farm nutrients since the beginning then a healthy plant that is already growing at 100% or very close to it will do just great.

As Emilya points out, the Cha Ching is only 1/3 of the finishing program. Still need the Open Sesame and the Beastie BloomZ which have to be given at the proper time. If not, then the Cha Ching is not going to be of much help since the plant did not grow the bud sites an buds that the Cha Ching is supposed to work on.
 
So your suggesting every new grower hammer their girls with nutrients at full strength. Isn't that why we che ec or ppm ,to dial in to an acceptable amount . Nutrient companies want to sell you as much as they can , suggested dosages of most nutrients will put you over the ppm over what most plants can handle imo. Isnt it standard practice to gradually dial up Nutrient levels till you get to an acceptable level your girls can handle and then stop at that pont.
Bill, a lot of what you have said above is your opinion, just as what I am about to say is my opinion. We are both right, and as has been said over and over again on this forum, there are as many ways to grow this plant as there are gardeners doing experiments.

A lot of what you said here comes from the hydro world, and this is where a lot of misconceptions come from. In hydro, you are putting your roots in direct contact with the nutrients and because of that the ec/ppm levels are very important. Putting too many nutes into the solution can certainly jack things up, and there is no buffer if you get it wrong. So the advice to ramp up slowly and less is more and all that is much more valid advice in the hydro world than it is in soil... in soil we don't even worry about ppm or ec... the soil is a buffer.

Soil has a special ability to hold the ions of our nutrients in suspension, until the roots need them. Soil actually protects the roots because the roots are not in direct contact with the nutes like they are in a water based system and the soil can hold a lot more nutrient than the plants need at this particular moment in time. Typically in soil we are told to water/feed/water/feed, alternating all through the grow. This is done because of soil's special ability to be a buffer for your nutrients as well as your water, saving it all until the plants need it. When you feed at full strength, of course the plant can not use all of that right at that moment, and if you did that same concentration of nutes in hydro you would certainly fry your plants, but in soil the roots draw up what they need, in the strength you have given it in, and yes, if you do this like a boss and actually try to supercharge your plants, you WILL burn them slightly on the very tips of the leaves on that nute pass. People think that this "burning" is something terrible, hence that awful term that makes us think of a plant suddenly catching on fire and dying... but actually, it is a normal process that happens when the plant says that it has had enough on this pass... it even happens in organic grows where NO nutes are being applied.

On the next pass however, you are giving plain pH adjusted water. This allows the large amount of leftover nutes from the first pass to be reactivated and mobile for the plants to be able to use. On this pass, the plant is getting a little less nutrient than on the first pass, but thanks to the soil's buffering abilities, the nutrient is still there in abundance.

So, there are huge differences between hydro and soil grows, not just the obvious ones. If you compare feeding charts for hydro to one for soil, you WILL see that in hydro you give less ec/ppm... but if you are really trying to supercharge your plants, you won't give 1/2 of what is recommended, just because "someone" wrote that you shouldn't. Hopefully now you can see the reason that hydro uses a smaller concentration of nutes in your feed water, than you would use in soil.
 
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