Do you find the watering more frequent ?
CoffeeShopSeeds Sponsored Grow: Emmie’s Huge 1 Month Interval Constant Harvest
- Thread starter Emilya Green
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Emilya Green
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That seems to depend a lot on your reservoir size. My 5g sips are needing about a liter per day and after 2 days they would be hurting. My 27g tote sips could probably go a week or more if I had to.
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- #943
Emilya Green
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Here are the SIP tubs as of today. All of the plants are greening back up and repairing most of the damage taken by keeping them in the 1 gallon containers too long. Each day finds the plants standing taller and looking healthier. SIP does seem to be working, since I can see the rez draining at a predictable rate of approximately 3-4 cups per plant, per day. As the roots develop in these 7g bags, I expect that daily rate to increase quite a bit. Now that I have a base rate for the daily water use, I am going to give them several days without any intervention. As the plants continue to develop and get stronger, I will start trimming the plants to shape them to the room and their tubs, while trying to make sure they don't get too tall. I don't have the red trigger lights in this room, so stretch is definitely an issue that I need to consider.
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- #944
Emilya Green
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Each day we get a little greener, and a little more healthy looking. We have been in SIP for 3 and 4 days now, and they definitely using water. We are also about 3 days away from the revealing of my surprise.
I also need to get some new seeds going for my 2023 New Year's harvest. This time we are going to go with some of the seeds from @CoffeeShopSeeds. Tonight I will decide on which looks best to be worthy of bringing in the new year! Can you believe we are already planning 2023 harvests?
I also need to get some new seeds going for my 2023 New Year's harvest. This time we are going to go with some of the seeds from @CoffeeShopSeeds. Tonight I will decide on which looks best to be worthy of bringing in the new year! Can you believe we are already planning 2023 harvests?
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
I'm chuffed to hear your transplants are taking so well to their new 'forever' homes.
Was hoping you could give me some answers/point me to resources regarding transition lighting.
My 2 tents have 1100w bar leds in them, each with some 660nm near reds and some 700-something nm far red diodes. I have independent control over both, well, currently just the far reds b/c I haven't bought a controller yet.
So I'm wondering whether I can transition with far reds alone, looking for a light prescription for doing so, etc. Can you point me anywhere concise? a PM is fine if necc.
Get used to doing heavy defols! It is the SIP ball and chain! The three tubs all look great.
TIP: jam a pencil through that overflow hole now and again so you don't have to contort yourself to eyeball that it hasn't got plugged up by perlite. That's another reason for keeping levels below full, to keep that pesky perlite away from the hole. Not a major issue though, happened to me once out of almost 250 SIP-months (10, 27gal SIPs x 25 months) of growing and it didn't cause an issue, I just like my airflow through there so now I use a 2.5" section of 3/4 ID PVC and mesh screen. I don't think using some screen alone to block the hole would be advisable, however.
Three days wait?! Awwwwww!! I can't wait three days!! Hint?!?
Was hoping you could give me some answers/point me to resources regarding transition lighting.
My 2 tents have 1100w bar leds in them, each with some 660nm near reds and some 700-something nm far red diodes. I have independent control over both, well, currently just the far reds b/c I haven't bought a controller yet.
So I'm wondering whether I can transition with far reds alone, looking for a light prescription for doing so, etc. Can you point me anywhere concise? a PM is fine if necc.
Get used to doing heavy defols! It is the SIP ball and chain! The three tubs all look great.
TIP: jam a pencil through that overflow hole now and again so you don't have to contort yourself to eyeball that it hasn't got plugged up by perlite. That's another reason for keeping levels below full, to keep that pesky perlite away from the hole. Not a major issue though, happened to me once out of almost 250 SIP-months (10, 27gal SIPs x 25 months) of growing and it didn't cause an issue, I just like my airflow through there so now I use a 2.5" section of 3/4 ID PVC and mesh screen. I don't think using some screen alone to block the hole would be advisable, however.
Three days wait?! Awwwwww!! I can't wait three days!! Hint?!?
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- #946
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
I believe there are studies that show that full time far red is not beneficial to our grows and it will cause the plants to adapt in ways we don't want. The only real benefit that I see right now in far red is at the beginning and end of the daily light cycle, simulating what happens on the horizon in nature. I recommend keeping the far red off except for 10 minutes before and after the light period.
I really got in there and chopped on the 5 gal bucket SIPS, and they really needed it. I can only imagine what these plants in the tubs are going to look like in a month and I am imagining that this little room is going to fill up like a scrog screen, especially after what I am about to do.
That was the only hint I am giving. I just checked, it is going to be Wednesday.I am leaning toward sticking a pipe in the drain hole, just to make the runoff easier to manage, not that there is ever going to be a lot of it. The pencil thing seems prudent. I can see the water level along the side as it starts to rise up to the level of the hole, so when I start seeing water, I know I am almost there. Ms. J. says she can hear the water as it goes in the side take on a different sound when it gets up there near the airgap.
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
Hi Emilya, I'm going to try underlining my questions in everything I post now, site-wide, to make things easier for people willing to help me out. Would you personally find that helpful and do you believe others will also?
I wanted to ask you to note any exceptional rh changes, or problems managing rh, as compared to your traditional container gardening, here on the thread. I don't have any experiences to share or fixes, per se, I'm merely interested in any comparative changes, and thought you'd be someone with a good perspective on this.
Will you be doing regular recharges of your micro-flora/fauna? (are myc flora? hmmm)
I have Microbe Monday at my house and we really tie one on. I DIY culture bacteria and mycorrihzals from commercial sources so that I'm always inputting living hyphae and bugs, as opposed to spores, reducing time to impact and increasing overall impact. It also has shown a considerable cost reduction. By only using the store-bought mycs or bennies as seed I make an expensive product stretch farther by orders of magnitude while increasing effectiveness. It requires only a basic amount of equipment and anyone can do it. I've been working on a tek to share.
I do a veg mix that includes nitrogen-fixing bacteria, a bloom mix that includes phosphate-solubilizing bacteria, and a straight endomycorrhizal mix. I apply these primarily with a top watering, but because each plant only receives 500ml it doesn't reach the reservoir. The mycs are used during transplants but because I have so much and it's in living hyphae form, I mix some in with my 500ml root drenches, then cover the soil.
Also, do you have any idea what is the colour temp of your Nextlight, w/o added reds?
Do you still use your DIY COBs? I thought you did a nice job there.
Best regards
-rd
I wanted to ask you to note any exceptional rh changes, or problems managing rh, as compared to your traditional container gardening, here on the thread. I don't have any experiences to share or fixes, per se, I'm merely interested in any comparative changes, and thought you'd be someone with a good perspective on this.
Will you be doing regular recharges of your micro-flora/fauna? (are myc flora? hmmm)
I have Microbe Monday at my house and we really tie one on. I DIY culture bacteria and mycorrihzals from commercial sources so that I'm always inputting living hyphae and bugs, as opposed to spores, reducing time to impact and increasing overall impact. It also has shown a considerable cost reduction. By only using the store-bought mycs or bennies as seed I make an expensive product stretch farther by orders of magnitude while increasing effectiveness. It requires only a basic amount of equipment and anyone can do it. I've been working on a tek to share.
I do a veg mix that includes nitrogen-fixing bacteria, a bloom mix that includes phosphate-solubilizing bacteria, and a straight endomycorrhizal mix. I apply these primarily with a top watering, but because each plant only receives 500ml it doesn't reach the reservoir. The mycs are used during transplants but because I have so much and it's in living hyphae form, I mix some in with my 500ml root drenches, then cover the soil.
Also, do you have any idea what is the colour temp of your Nextlight, w/o added reds?
Do you still use your DIY COBs? I thought you did a nice job there.
Best regards
-rd
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #949
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi RD,
I do like the underlined questions... this makes it very hard to miss one as I am replying. You might actually start a new trend with this; it's worth a try anyway.
The RH has definitely gone up with all the added water in the rooms. I have added another fan and may yet add another one in response. I am not sure that I will be able to operate over the winter because of this, but I am going to try. I tend to make it rain in my attic, have a super cold metal roof immediately above the heated and moist grow rooms. Time will tell if I will be able to manage this. I also still have the lids for my 6 tubs and I am contemplating making cutouts for the plants and then using them to seal the water in a bit better at the top. There would still be air access along the sides, and I am not sure how much this would help the overall RH of the area, but it might help to keep the top moist. I would add mulch, but that might be problematic when top dressing the nutrients. As in most things that I immediately dismiss as solutions to problems, this might actually be the best thing I could do. I am arguing with myself about this at this very moment.
I use @GeoFlora Nutrients, and the once every 2 week applications include not just the raw nutrients the plants will need during that period, but also the microbes. It is all locked up in a slow release 2 week formula designed so that every time you top water, more of the nutrient and microbes are released. There are so many new microbes coming in with each watering that I don't have to worry about chlorine in my tap water.
Now using SIP, it appears that the microbes and nutes are still being slow released, even without top watering.
I don't have the data in front of me, but I believe the MEGa is a 3000K full spectrum light. I keep the COB array hanging in the back corner of the bloom room for overflow situations. I actually used it on my Tangerine Dream plants when they first arrived in the bloom room. Thank you for the compliment, and yes, that DIY build, with help, has turned out to be one of my most efficient lights, but sadly only big enough for about 3 plants.
Nine Toed Hippie
Well-Known Member
Time flies when you are living the grow life! These damn sip buckets are making me drool. All I need is another project though. Can you purchase them ready to go instead of building them yourself?Each day we get a little greener, and a little more healthy looking. We have been in SIP for 3 and 4 days now, and they definitely using water. We are also about 3 days away from the revealing of my surprise.
I also need to get some new seeds going for my 2023 New Year's harvest. This time we are going to go with some of the seeds from @CoffeeShopSeeds. Tonight I will decide on which looks best to be worthy of bringing in the new year! Can you believe we are already planning 2023 harvests?
NTH
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- #951
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
There were kits for 5g buckets floating out there on the big river, but they were out of stock when I was looking. It really wasn't a big deal building the buckets... the tubs required better tools, but aren't that hard to put together. The tubs were under $20, One 10' drainage pipe for $10 is enough to make one tub.
Nine Toed Hippie
Well-Known Member
Awesome. Thanks for the info. Looking forward to growing in one of these buckets.
NTH
on the edge of!
ReservoirDog
Well-Known Member
Yes, I think I would move forward with the covers were I in your position. Cutting a lid into three pieces ought to be simple enough with small cutuots for each plant. If you have trouble with the hole placement you could always make it large and attach a gaitor, like a little nylon booty with snaps or something. Don't be surprised if you see a lot of hyphae or even fruiting mushrooms under there, it seems pretty common (and very cool) amongst lid-users. Thrilled it's working out for you so far (can't imagine the lashing I'd get if it didn't). Phew.
Consider the perforated clothlike nursery bags for your seedlings, my plants just love them, I can bottom water so I have hydrotropism happening from day 1 and you get excellent dendritic root patterning just like with larger cloth pots. Cheap as borscht, cheaper even, and they store a lot easier than little wee pots do. I tend to flip the 60/40 peat/perlite recipe to have 60% perlite in the bags along with my mycs and fulvic/kelp/liquidirt. I also sit them on 2" drink-bottle sections filled with gravel and perlite inside an aquarium with 1.5" nutrient or water in it. However, you can also just drop them into a cup or pot if you prefer and still bottom-water. I put up some pics of a funny sativa set up I did this way on Bud's thread you may have seen. Those dang plants would not be happy until they were hotter'n'blazes and soaked to the bone. Whatever floats your boat I guess!
My thoughts on the RH management in your situ are pretty standard. Don't forget though that it takes temp changes for a dewpoint to take place, and the warmer you keep it the more h20 the air can reliably hold. Keep the temps high with a heater overnight (and a rotating fan) and you'll see a lot less condensation. Spent many years living and working here on the west coast aboard boats and know all about dealing with hardcore RH indoors.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe my only way to come across some @GeoFlora Nutrients in Canada is to win some from 420. Sounds like absolute 'tits on glass' that stuff. If only... You however can purchase Liquidirt, and that's my second big tip for anyone after SIPs. Best to you and the missus. Your servant - RD
Consider the perforated clothlike nursery bags for your seedlings, my plants just love them, I can bottom water so I have hydrotropism happening from day 1 and you get excellent dendritic root patterning just like with larger cloth pots. Cheap as borscht, cheaper even, and they store a lot easier than little wee pots do. I tend to flip the 60/40 peat/perlite recipe to have 60% perlite in the bags along with my mycs and fulvic/kelp/liquidirt. I also sit them on 2" drink-bottle sections filled with gravel and perlite inside an aquarium with 1.5" nutrient or water in it. However, you can also just drop them into a cup or pot if you prefer and still bottom-water. I put up some pics of a funny sativa set up I did this way on Bud's thread you may have seen. Those dang plants would not be happy until they were hotter'n'blazes and soaked to the bone. Whatever floats your boat I guess!
My thoughts on the RH management in your situ are pretty standard. Don't forget though that it takes temp changes for a dewpoint to take place, and the warmer you keep it the more h20 the air can reliably hold. Keep the temps high with a heater overnight (and a rotating fan) and you'll see a lot less condensation. Spent many years living and working here on the west coast aboard boats and know all about dealing with hardcore RH indoors.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe my only way to come across some @GeoFlora Nutrients in Canada is to win some from 420. Sounds like absolute 'tits on glass' that stuff. If only... You however can purchase Liquidirt, and that's my second big tip for anyone after SIPs. Best to you and the missus. Your servant - RD
Mark Gordan Smith
Well-Known Member
Roses are red
Violets are blue
SenseEmilya's green
Progressing well, too.
Violets are blue
SenseEmilya's green
Progressing well, too.
Do you do anything besides laying the Geoflora on the top of the soil, like mist them or water them in at all, maybe put them below a mulch layer, anything?
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- #958
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
On the day that I top feed, I also top water to water the nutes and microbes in... but I don't give as much water as would cause runoff, just enough to soak the surface a couple of times. I know that most 5 gallon containers will easily handle 3 of my watering pitchers before producing runoff, so I give two, and then I fill the rez. From then on, it appears the granules get enough moisture to continue to break down, and I am sure that if I put down mulch or the lids to bottle in some of the moisture, the granules would even be happier. I am just concerned that if I go the mulch route, it might be harder to get the granules to the surface. That, and the cleanup after the grow, keeping the mulch out of my soil bin... that has always been a bit of a pain.
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- #959
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Here are the tubs today. Moisture can be felt by placing my hand on the top surface of the soil. These bags are definitely wicking. The plants just keep getting greener (erasing previous N and P deficiency damage) taller and stronger looking. Soon the challenge will be to keep the plants restrained to this room. I will do what I can to train them into little 1/2 tub shrubs, but you know how that goes. If I have to, I will move them to the bigger room but for now I am hoping they will be reasonable. The SIP in the other room, DYNOMYCO grow has me a little worried.
CBDMed
Well-Known Member
Looking super good!Here are the tubs today. Moisture can be felt by placing my hand on the top surface of the soil. These bags are definitely wicking. The plants just keep getting greener (erasing previous N and P deficiency damage) taller and stronger looking. Soon the challenge will be to keep the plants restrained to this room. I will do what I can to train them into little 1/2 tub shrubs, but you know how that goes. If I have to, I will move them to the bigger room but for now I am hoping they will be reasonable. The SIP in the other room, DYNOMYCO grow has me a little worried.
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