Cure All Cure: 420 Magazine's Connoisseur Cure Technique

Yes gr, Boveda humidity packs are used by the people in the know ;) or the people who are fed up with making mistakes and losing Oz's to mold :/
 
I have Boveda 62 in every jar.

Sometimes, an emptied jar may sit open for a couple of weeks, or a pack may be taken out and left somewhere for several weeks. In this case, the pack seems to be filled with stiff, dry, crunchy stuff.

When I have a boveda 62 pack that is very dry, I do the following:

1) Place the Boveda pack in an open container (coffee cup) and cover with water.
2) Wait at least 3 days for the pack to become fully water logged.
3) Dump the water out of the container
4) Wait 3-8 days (in a room less than 62% RH) until your Boveda pack is the desired consistency.

The paper of the Boveda pack does not tear, wrinkle, discolor, or otherwise suffer noticeable damage.
 
Wow Redogast! I never considered re-hydrating a Boveda pack before, there's always the fear of contaminants/mold in my mind so I will stay on the safe side and continue to buy new ones when I need them but might be worth considering for some if they are sure of no mold etc, maybe make up some Cheshunt compound to a weak solution and spray the pack to prevent mold on the pack?

Red58
 
Wow Redogast! I never considered re-hydrating a Boveda pack before, there's always the fear of contaminants/mold in my mind so I will stay on the safe side and continue to buy new ones when I need them but might be worth considering for some if they are sure of no mold etc, maybe make up some Cheshunt compound to a weak solution and spray the pack to prevent mold on the pack?

Red58

I don't worry about mold. I am combining water, non-disolving paper, non-disolving ink, and a humidity balancing gel. A cigar smoking friend of mine buys the unpackaged gel and pours water directly on the gel to rehydrate. No mold grows in a glass of water if my daughter leaves it sitting out for a week. Tap water has chlorine and such, so I have no mold concerns.

I checked a recenty rehydrated pair of Boveda packs, they aren't totally unwrinkled. The paper puckered a tiny amount in the center, so the packs look like they have been bent a few times.
 
So I have all my different strains at different drying/curing points in Ball Wide Mouth Quart and Pint size caning jars. Some have been curing from anywhere from 2 weeks to 5 weeks. I just bought a foodsaver vacuum sealer, and I want to know at what point can I start vacuum sealing the jars, so I dont' have to worry about them anymore?

What I mean is, is it ok or when is ok that they don't refreshed air (opening/burping the jar one a day or week?)?

Everything each jar is at 62%.

I also have 62% humidipaks. So if it's ok to vacuum seal the jars, should I put the humidipak inside or no since there isn't any air in the jar anyway. I would imagine that I should only use the humidipak after I open that jar to adjust the humidity level if need be. This is also my thinking because I have read that the humidipak can mess with the flavor if in the jar with the weed for too long (months).

Any thoughts or suggestions is appreciated.

I would be vacuum sealing in jars not bags, so the weed doesn't get crushed.

Thanks everyone in advance.
 
I've harvested 3x with the last 2 using hydration packs. From what I've read, the 62% RH is the goal. Is this for during the cure or storage. So far the smell has been pretty chlorophyll heavy when compared to another sources product. I guess my question is : Do I dry the harvest to under 50% and then use the hydration packs or what? Thanks.
 
The Humidity packs do NOT damage the flavor. I suppose if you had been using a humidity pack with cigars or plastic wrap for 2 years. it might add cigar or plastic flavors to your weed. I use Boveda 62%.

On the contrary, a humidity pack can add some flavor back into weed that has been sitting in a baggie for months.

I will not seal up a jar without a humidity pack inside.

The maximum we have kept weed is probably a little over one year in the "nug jar." Whenever my wife gets new weed, she picks out the best looking nugs. Puts them in a baggie and stuffs it in the nug jar. The main stash goes into the regular rotation of 2-5 strains. When she wants to switch up strains, or supply gets low, she samples from a baggie out of the nug jar. One small boveda pack keeps the 1/2 gallon nug jar fresh. I check it ever 2-3 months. If the pack is too dry, I stick the pack in a cup of water for 3 days - let it dry on the counter for 2 days - then put it back in the nug jar.
 
I've harvested 3x with the last 2 using hydration packs. From what I've read, the 62% RH is the goal. Is this for during the cure or storage. So far the smell has been pretty chlorophyll heavy when compared to another sources product. I guess my question is : Do I dry the harvest to under 50% and then use the hydration packs or what? Thanks.

I overdry a bit, because overdry on the outside is often too green on the inside. Then I use the humidity packs to soak up the moisture that comes out in a loosely sealed jar. When the packs start to dry out, you know the weed is no longer giving off humidity- it is fully dry.

I don't see the point in a fully sealed jar. A humidty pack will keep it from getting too dry unless it goes many months without checking. And then a fresh pack gets it back to good in a week. A humidity pack can only soak up so much moisture, so a sealed jar can stay too moist. It's never happened to me, but moldy weed is not a good sounding thing.
 
Hey All, engineering/scientific question:
If I have a regulated environmental chamber that is always at 62%RH, do I need to open and air it out during the dry/cure?

The environmental chamber has constant, adjustable, low-flow circulation with a hygrometer switch Connected to a humidifier, set to 62%. The buds rest in top of a screen to allow the air to pass trough and around them. Shouldn't this theoretically be the best possible means of drying/curing? I mean, theoretically, I could just set it to a length of time, e.g., 30 days, and be done with curing, without intervention, and then package for storage... right?
 
Hey All, engineering/scientific question:
If I have a regulated environmental chamber that is always at 62%RH, do I need to open and air it out during the dry/cure?

The environmental chamber has constant, adjustable, low-flow circulation with a hygrometer switch Connected to a humidifier, set to 62%. The buds rest in top of a screen to allow the air to pass trough and around them. Shouldn't this theoretically be the best possible means of drying/curing? I mean, theoretically, I could just set it to a length of time, e.g., 30 days, and be done with curing, without intervention, and then package for storage... right?

As long as there is mild air flow - probably.

After 30 days you are done with drying and partially done with curing.

Cannabis seems to age, like wine. Some strains are better consumed fresh (15-30 days after harvest) but most connoisseurs will prefer strains aged 90-180 days. Like wine, your average smoker barely notices a difference in strains much less curing.

So... If you are going for the average consumer - I imagine you are fine to dry 20-25 days, bag and seal in plastic, and ship.
If you are preparing for the palate of a cannabis connoisseur, you might want to dry shorter and cure in glass or steel for a few months.

- - -

A couple of unknowns you might ask yourself about extended time in a drying chamber:

Did I lose more kief from longer dried trichomes falling on the floor or getting sucked into the exhaust filters of the chamber? If so, how will I harvest that kief?

Did I lose more aromatic terpenes into the atmosphere? If the air is filtered or exhaused, would I rather those aromas had stayed with the cannabis?
 
Thanks for the response, Radogast.

Right, I should have been more detailed:
This is a sealed chamber with no filtration. The only connection to the outside environment is the drip leg of the humidifier. The fans "exhaust" simply flows back into the top of the chamber. The chamber is 12'^3 and recycles every 4 minutes (3 cfm). The screen is 100 micron mesh to allow airflow but prevent particulate loss.

Key Points:
- Chamber is wholly separate from external environment
- All particulate will be caught by screen
- No air filtration: Dehumidifier is in exhaust loop and it's a piezo electric dehumidifier.
- 30 days was just an example, but all harvested material will be used for alternate consumption methods; edibles; tinctures; oils. That said, the glycerin based tinctures are for sublingual and vaporization consumption so terpenes, flavanoids, etc are important to palatability.
 
Thanks for the response, Radogast.

Right, I should have been more detailed:
This is a sealed chamber with no filtration. The only connection to the outside environment is the drip leg of the humidifier. The fans "exhaust" simply flows back into the top of the chamber. The chamber is 12'^3 and recycles every 4 minutes (3 cfm). The screen is 100 micron mesh to allow airflow but prevent particulate loss.

Key Points:
- Chamber is wholly separate from external environment
- All particulate will be caught by screen
- No air filtration: Dehumidifier is in exhaust loop and it's a piezo electric dehumidifier.
- 30 days was just an example, but all harvested material will be used for alternate consumption methods; edibles; tinctures; oils. That said, the glycerin based tinctures are for sublingual and vaporization consumption so terpenes, flavanoids, etc are important to palatability.


I wrote a bit about recycled vs non-recycled air in my reply, but took it out because of all the variables.

My biggest concern was the flavanoids and aromatics loss from extended time in an 'open' loop system. You have that covered :)


That sounds perfect to me! It also sounds like you have serious plans :)

Perfect to me isn't saying much. I'm a personal use medical grower with an interest in physics and machinery but an unrelated profession.

Depending on how much you are investing in this method, you might explore experienced professional advice ( like from Colorado or California :) )

It definitely sounds like you have the right ideas :)



p.s. In my limitted experiments with cannabis infused glycerin, I never seemed to reach activated THC - no prior decarboxlation. No high. If you have a low tech method for cannabis vape juice, I'd love to hear it.
 
Alright, so I just made a batch using trim from a friends enormous fucking Indica he grew this summer. Two, 1-Gallon Jars with forearm sized buds! From one plant! :thumb:

I used 1oz fine ground trim to 1 cup VG. Mixed in a short, wide mouthed mason jar.

I placed it in a double boiler to bring up to temperature then "covered" and placed in crockpot for 24 hours. On low. Covered.

IT HAS TO BE HEATED BEFORE COVERING OR IT WILL EXPLODE!!!

The crockpot had water up to the neck of the jar. The jar cover was actually a ziploc freezer bag. I placed it on top of the jar and screwed the ring down around it, sans heat seal lid.

After 24 hours I strained it and pressed the grounds.

That's it. Tonight was my first test of this batch. I tried it in tea - no vape pen. I definitely have a great buzz though :)

I'll let you know how it vapes!
 
I'm a newbie reading up before my first crop is ready for harvest. I read somewhere that the cure process stops at 55% RH, but once you stop the cure, you can go back to the 62% RH packs and the cure process is not restarted. It seems that everyone in this thread swears by 62% RH packs. How are you all stopping the cure if you only use a 62% RH pack in the jars?
 
I'm a newbie reading up before my first crop is ready for harvest. I read somewhere that the cure process stops at 55% RH, but once you stop the cure, you can go back to the 62% RH packs and the cure process is not restarted. It seems that everyone in this thread swears by 62% RH packs. How are you all stopping the cure if you only use a 62% RH pack in the jars?

It's a good question, but that doesn't mean I know the answer. I wash my buds, hang dry for about 10 days until the stems make an audible snap, then jar them with boveda 62 packs. Maybe not the connoisseur method, but VERY good quality. The cure might not be complete after those drying days, but for at least one strain (a White Widow) I prefer the near psychedelic high of the first 2-weeks fresh bud over a full cure.

There are a lot of terpene groups that effect the flavor, the healing potential, and 'sculpt' the quality of a cannabis high. Their expression varies between strains and between grows and is effected by drying, curing, and the ways in which we decarb and use the marijuana. I'm not willing to go out on a limb and say one drying and curing technique maximizes the experience of everyone for all strains of weed. We all enjoy, partake and experience our marijuana a bit differently.

Viva la difference :party:
 
I guess everyone has their own ways but, as far as the freezing method goes, here is a bud that is from 3 years ago that a friend of mine recently gave me some of:
Kush_Wreck.jpg


These are TWxKush and believe me when I say, even 3 years frozen... they smoke like a dream... cheers!
Excuse me Captain Kronic can you please explain to me the curing process using a freezer
I wrote a bit about recycled vs non-recycled air in my reply, but took it out because of all the variables.

My biggest concern was the flavanoids and aromatics loss from extended time in an 'open' loop system. You have that covered :)


That sounds perfect to me! It also sounds like you have serious plans :)

Perfect to me isn't saying much. I'm a personal use medical grower with an interest in physics and machinery but an unrelated profession.

Depending on how much you are investing in this method, you might explore experienced professional advice ( like from Colorado or California :) )

It definitely sounds like you have the right ideas :)



p.s. In my limitted experiments with cannabis infused glycerin, I never seemed to reach activated THC - no prior decarboxlation. No high. If you have a low tech method for cannabis vape juice, I'd love to hear it.

I'm a newbie reading up before my first crop is ready for harvest. I read somewhere that the cure process stops at 55% RH, but once you stop the cure, you can go back to the 62% RH packs and the cure process is not restarted. It seems that everyone in this thread swears by 62% RH packs. How are you all stopping the cure if you only use a 62% RH pack in the jars?

Agreed TheKiller

I read your post but I was influenced by my personal perspective.
As a casual smoker - I can wait to do it right. It's never urgent for me to smoke.
Obviously this is different for other people.

I'll accept your correction that I was insensitive to those with urgent medical needs

from what i saw on another thread on this site is that is u r jar curing and have a rh meter that can fit in the jar . put the bud in the jar and seal it up wait a few hrs and check it it its above 70% then it needs to dry for for a few more hrs . once u can get the jar to read under 70 % u can begin the cure . u want to burp the jars a few times a day until u get a steady rh of 65 . then u can cure for months sealed..

this si not my info . and with this info i still fked up my cure .everything was going great .. outside was drying and the inside was sticky .. i checked thee rh in a jar and it was 75 . here is were i fucked up.. i was getting impatient and put a fan blowing into the closet for a few hrs .. came back and i was devastated the buds were super super dry now .. i put them in the jar and the were like 63%. crispy..has an ok taste and smell but it was way better the day before when i sampled a bud .. the fan killed my cure.. i read a guy above say he dreads harvest and cure .. i am so with u . let me grow it and then someone else can focus in the cure ... teamwork


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