- Thread starter
- #221
diesel farmer
New Member
Very nicethats quite a few hairs on that nuggie
yep, only one like it, its the freak bud, you cant see it but the stalk is huge right up to the bud, peace !
Diesels First Deep Water Culture Grow
- Thread starter diesel farmer
- Start date
yep, only one like it, its the freak bud, you cant see it but the stalk is huge right up to the bud, peace !
That bud has a fro! 
Cool!
Cool!scaredeecat
New Member
that bud looks like a cotton ballnice
nice- Thread starter
- #224
diesel farmer
New Member
That bud has a fro!
haha, ya it does, albino style : )
- Thread starter
- #225
diesel farmer
New Member
- Thread starter
- #228
diesel farmer
New Member
Thanks man, ya, thats what a canna flower should look like, a flower, peace Ben!
- Thread starter
- #229
diesel farmer
New Member
ok, here are the pics of the issue I`m having that I put on the BH home page
Did you change the water regularly? Ph the old? AND the new?? The shock caused between the two can 'jam' your plants like being punched hard in the face. A knock out blow so to speak.
A friend ran out of GH Nutes and used Miracle Grow and it worked for a week then it killed all of his plants. All of them.
They may be weeds to some but are very tender when dealing with shock.
It looks like an air problem - as that same friend- lost a big plant in bloom due to his drain tube being blocked by the roots. (Eb and FLOOD, DWC, Hybrid Deep Water Culture system I turned him on to. He didn't follow the directions as usual.)
More air. Always check Ph between the two res changes. It helps.
A friend ran out of GH Nutes and used Miracle Grow and it worked for a week then it killed all of his plants. All of them.
They may be weeds to some but are very tender when dealing with shock.
It looks like an air problem - as that same friend- lost a big plant in bloom due to his drain tube being blocked by the roots. (Eb and FLOOD, DWC, Hybrid Deep Water Culture system I turned him on to. He didn't follow the directions as usual.)
More air. Always check Ph between the two res changes. It helps.
- Thread starter
- #232
diesel farmer
New Member
I change the res every 7 dayz, ph reads good everyday, unless my meter crapped out, branches are all falling over now half way up........................
This is a Copy and Paste from Uncle Ben, my grow hero!
Plant Moisture Stress - symptoms and solutions
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS - symptoms and solutions (revised Jan. 12, 2009)
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> "Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!", or, "My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?" Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the "solution" the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I'll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant size, vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. Sometimes copper colored necrotic spots show in the leaf also. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant's tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root's epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leach (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it's leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located near HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it's true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.
4. Overwatering - this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it's time to water. Don't wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water.
Happy gardening,
Uncle Ben
Plant Moisture Stress - symptoms and solutions
PLANT MOISTURE STRESS - symptoms and solutions (revised Jan. 12, 2009)
Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> "Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!", or, "My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?" Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the "solution" the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I'll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.
1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant size, vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. Sometimes copper colored necrotic spots show in the leaf also. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant's tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root's epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leach (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.
2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it's leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located near HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
3. High Light - yes, it's true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.
4. Overwatering - this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.
5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it's time to water. Don't wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water.
Happy gardening,
Uncle Ben
Just throwing this out there, if your res water was like 75 F and when you replenish the water is like in the mid 50s this will weaken the plant. It looks similar to your pics.
OMG diesel, What the heck is going on over there?
I wouldn't trust that PH meter.
Mine tick me off a week ago. bout killed my plants thinking the
PH was way low. Well I started putting in PH high mixture.
Meter kept reading 3.5, I was like what the hell. Got my manual tester out
and hell I was way up there.
I whip that damn meter as far as I could throw it out in the corn field.
I do it manually by the color code now. At least I know I am getting
a correct reading.
I get a nice yellow. I know I am around 6. A little orange be around 5.5 then.
In my opinion Diesel, and remember, I am just a newbie, But I would do a straight res change with PH water for a day. Thats is the first thing I would do when I saw something not right with my plants, like nute burnt or like the PH problem I got let to believe I was having cause of the meter. I let them do one day of just straight water and I could tell they like it, then started upping the nutes every 200 per day till got in the range I thought they needed.
Good luck with them man, I'm praying for ya.
I wouldn't trust that PH meter.
Mine tick me off a week ago. bout killed my plants thinking the
PH was way low. Well I started putting in PH high mixture.
Meter kept reading 3.5, I was like what the hell. Got my manual tester out
and hell I was way up there.
I whip that damn meter as far as I could throw it out in the corn field.
I do it manually by the color code now. At least I know I am getting
a correct reading.
I get a nice yellow. I know I am around 6. A little orange be around 5.5 then.
In my opinion Diesel, and remember, I am just a newbie, But I would do a straight res change with PH water for a day. Thats is the first thing I would do when I saw something not right with my plants, like nute burnt or like the PH problem I got let to believe I was having cause of the meter. I let them do one day of just straight water and I could tell they like it, then started upping the nutes every 200 per day till got in the range I thought they needed.
Good luck with them man, I'm praying for ya.
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