I've got Spider Mites, now what do I do?

What ever you do, be extremely cautious with your method. I recently killed a female plant out of forgetfulness. I used a light solution of soap and water....but I forgot that it was in flowering stage, and I didn't water or keep it shaded the next day. THe bugs were gone alright, and so were all the hairs, leaves, and buds. It basically soffocated the plant, and add sunlight to the mix.... sad. Luckily, This particular one I have now has only been sprayed with water.

The soap method will work, but only in very light solution, watered after application and kept out of the sun or light for a day, and wash that S*** of the very next morning.
 
I've ingested enough poisons by accident without doing it deliberately.

Tell me about it, one time I was so high playing video games and I had the worst cotton mouth. So without looking I picked up a gallon of water mixed with MOSQUITO DUNKS and started drinking it, I realized what it was like 8 gulps down the road. I wen't to the sink and threw that sh*t up and drank like 5 gallons of water by the end of the day. Tell me that isn't poisoning yourself.
 
Tell me about it, one time I was so high playing video games and I had the worst cotton mouth. So without looking I picked up a gallon of water mixed with MOSQUITO DUNKS and started drinking it, I realized what it was like 8 gulps down the road. I wen't to the sink and threw that sh*t up and drank like 5 gallons of water by the end of the day. Tell me that isn't poisoning yourself.

Bet the Mozzies didn't bother you though.:grinjoint::smokin:

DD
 
Where did u hear this? Can u provide a source? Got my info previously provided From Jorge Cervantes' Marijuana Horticulture indoor/outdoor medical growers bible. Don't believe half of the crap u hear especially if the person can't back the info. Honestly soap dissolving an insect or spider sounds absurd. I would have a problem using soap on myself if it dissolved another type of flesh. If that's the case soap would dissolve all spiders I would think. Think about it. Kids would be spaying bugs like they dump salt on snail or a magnifying glass on ants. Make sense? Hope so. I suggest that u do a little reading 4 urself. :peace:



yea tyhat does sound kinda far fecthed about the soap deal.neems oil FTW
I ALSO GOT THIS white powder that works very very well and its not made anymore.
 
I was told that Avid is toxic and banned in CA. Problem with that is I worry about what chemicals am I smoking and eating. Heard it works real good though. Pyrethrium bombs work cool, but u have to know what ur doin cuz a few things can go wrong.

I could tell you right now....Here, in Ontario, Canada any pesticides that actually work are banned.....I used to use Safer's end-all, which worked wonders.........But since the ban on pesticides they have come up with another formula called End-All 2 which is pretty much garbage.....Your best bet is to use preventative measures.....ie..not wearing clothes that you have been outside with, no dogs in your grow space.....and make sure things stay clean, using a diluted solution of water/bleach 5/1.......but If anyone knows of a product that could be sold in Ontario that actually works let me know.....Cause those lil bastards(mites) are tough to prevent in the summer months.
 
If you are looking for a pesticide you should try this.
1.Take a spray bottle.
2.Dump the tobacco from a couple of cigarettes in there.
3.Wait a few days.
4.Spray plants.
 
ok... i beleive i have spider mites on my little seedlings.... what do i do... i cant tell excatly what they are they are little brown and they are crawling up and down the little lady... the plant is only 4 days out of the soil the other 8 girls are still tape roots but will probibly pop threw the soil tomarow or next day.... what do i do?
 
i stand corrected, there are some little brown bastards, but there are green bastards too, thows little shits are green with little red heads, im not sure if they have 6 or 8 legs... i really need help here what do i do also they seem more intrested in the wood pices that are in my soil then the plant it self... its standerd catis soil mix you would get from walmart... please what do i do:lot-o-toke::lot-o-toke::lot-o-toke: 'sits here twittling thumbs wishing had that many joints'
 
I don't know if this will work for spidermites but it works awesome for fungus gnat larvae...I found a clothes steamer...one u use to iron...kills fungus gnat larvae instantly when applied to the infected soil....you might be able to use the hot steam to wipe out any critters on the leaves as well.....not sure if it will harm the leaves of the plants so if you do this, use caution and check it on just a branch or so..... but for fungus gnat larvae...it kills them within seconds....
 
I`ve just found it on some of mine soon. Its only on the ones in flower under lights. the ones in veg dont yet seem to be infected so obviously I will try to keep them apart as these spider mite bstards dont have any wings apparently , thank god. I sprayed the un -infected ones with a washing up liquid solution and hope that helps but the ones which have the spider mite damage ( I picked as many leaves off as I can find and threw them in bin ) I could do with some help what do do next please ?????
 
I'm going to speak from experience.

The only thing I have found to work well and keep mites gone is Floramite at 3mL per gallon. Dip the whole plant in a mixture if possible, while the plant is young, then spray again before going into flower. Do not use while in flowering or you most likely will get sick.

For outside, I use both floramite and Bug B Gone. Bug B Gone can be bought at Walmart and Wilco. You attach it to a hose, although, they do also sell a concentrate you can put in a pump sprayer or even spray bottle. Again, if possible, dip the plants while young.

For bug b gone, I use the one that attaches to the hose so I can soak the crap out of my plants.

I had aphids outside. I sprayed all rose bushes and my pot plants with Floramite. They are all dead and haven't come back.

I bomb my indoor grow room between grows. I tape a filter on the front vents of my airconditioner or any fans that pull fresh air from outside to inside my grow room. I use filters that keep pollen out.
 
I don't know if this will work for spidermites but it works awesome for fungus gnat larvae...I found a clothes steamer...one u use to iron...kills fungus gnat larvae instantly when applied to the infected soil....you might be able to use the hot steam to wipe out any critters on the leaves as well.....not sure if it will harm the leaves of the plants so if you do this, use caution and check it on just a branch or so..... but for fungus gnat larvae...it kills them within seconds....

When I wrote this I was still pretty new to growing.... don't use a steamer on leaves... I found out the hard way and fried all my leaves when I did this.... DON'T do this :)

What I did find for spider mites that works... a 3 part process... Bon Neem, Spinosad, Mite X. Rotate each spray and hit the plants 1x per week for 3-4 weeks. Make sure to cover tops and bottoms of leaves, and stems and even hit the top layer of soil slightly. I have eliminated spider mites with this completely.
 
Re: Ladybugs for mite control according to Cervantes

Spider Mite Predators not only feed on Spider Mites and their eggs, they also breed twice as fast! Each Spider Mite Predator sucks the juice out of about 5 Spider Mites a day, or 20 of their eggs. Used as directed, predators should noticeably begin to gain control within 4 weeks, and then continue until the Spider Mites are nearly or completely wiped out. Predators disappear when the Spider Mites are gone.

Most Effective Control:
Triple Threat!

Use our mix of all 3 species to cover a wider range of growing conditions.

Wide Temp Range, Moderate Humidity:
Phytoseiulus persimilis
Temperature Range: 55 - 105+ F.
Humidity Range: 55 - 90%

Moderate Temp Range, High Humidity:
Neoseiulus californicus
Temperature Range: 55 - 90 F.
Humidity Range: 60 - 90%

Widest Humidity and Temp Range:
Mesoseiulus longipes
Temperature Range: 55 - 105+ F.
Humidity Range: 45 - 90%

All three types can be used either separately or in any combination.

If Spider Mite Population is Especially High: Mite Destroyers.


These tiny Mite Destroyers eat all stages of Spider Mites, and find new infestation sites on their own by flying. But, it takes 4-6 weeks to really get these guys going, so use Predator Mites as well for more immediate control and for cleaning up small "trouble spots". Life cycle takes 18 days at 70 F. 100 Spider Mite Destroyers gets a colony started.


In Greenhouses and Larger Areas: Feltiella acarisuga.


Feltiella acarisuga is a predator midge used against Spider Mites. The adults fly around the plants, laying their eggs in the Spider-Mite colonies. The eggs soon hatch and the larvae devour the Spider Mites. Feltiella acarisuga can be used in low humidity environments where the Spider Mite Predators would have difficulty reproducing.

Other Controls: Some report good results against Mites with some of our more All-Purpose Predators such as Pirate Bugs, Ladybugs and Green Lacewings , but these results may be due to very specific combinations of conditions that most growing environments don't have. But, if you have these other predators on hand for other plant problems, give them a try if you see Spider Mites.

Handy Hint: Many Pyrethryn sprays are encapsulated. While Pyrethryn is relatively safe (it breaks down quickly), encapsulation can make it last for weeks or months indoors. This residual action kills off Hired Bugs even after it no longer affects pests.
 
I've tried the tripple pack. Hardly worked at all. I will stick with floramite and Bug B Gone during veg and during flower, Organicide.

When using predatory mites they are not the quicker solution that insecticides are plus you do have to make sure you purchase enough of them. To many people purchase to few and expect to much from them to quick. But they will do the job. Before the economy killed our nursery we used them and relied heavily on them, but then we were dealing with a rather number of acres of trees and bushes and greenhouses and the time it took to apply chemicals and cost of chemicals was prohibitive. We would just purchase enough predatory mites, set them loose around the nursery and as long as there were mites for them to eat they stuck around and did the job we needed them to do and did it well enough we lost very little inventory due to mites. But they are not the best option for every person and every situation. You can't wait until you have a major problem and then expect predatory mites to reverse things as fast as chemicals will. We had to stay on top of things like that and that is the best way to not find yourself facing a major problem regardless of how many plants someone is dealing with. To keep ahead of larger problem insects we would release large numbers of lady bugs and preying mantis.
 
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