What's the amp pulling on the ballast & cable your using?
JBC's Super Soil - Fully Organic 4x Blue Mystic + 1x CH9 Jack FEMS
- Thread starter JB42
- Start date
I wired all new 20 and 30 amp runs straight from my breaker box to my grow units myself, so luckily I've never had any problems; wish I could help more. Here's a pic of the tumbler I use, though.
Good luck troubleshooting the electrical problem, JB42.
Good luck troubleshooting the electrical problem, JB42.
- Thread starter
- #583
I'm really not sure what its running at the breaker box but the fuse on the ballast in the plug is a 13amp. It then runs through an extension lead but it has blown on 2 different types. I hope the shop takes it back again.
Next time i'l run it straight from the timer on the plug.
The extension I use runs 560w + Cfl's fine and has done for a couple of years.
I'm no electrician and that box you posted potchimp, I have no idea what it is. I also used CFL for years so i'm not clued up on ballasts. But seen as its happened twice it must be a problem of mine and not the ballast.
Next time i'l run it straight from the timer on the plug.
The extension I use runs 560w + Cfl's fine and has done for a couple of years.
I'm no electrician and that box you posted potchimp, I have no idea what it is. I also used CFL for years so i'm not clued up on ballasts. But seen as its happened twice it must be a problem of mine and not the ballast.
Is the extension a 13amp as well? & how long is the extension cord? 13 amps shouldn't be ran no more then a 15ft cord. Which will cause the burn out & possibly a fire. And if you have a timer on it that could be why as well. It's not known for a timer to hold all that electricity.
If its not that then it's the ballast it self. The brand must not be a good one. But u should be able to tell that just by looking at the warranty
If its not that then it's the ballast it self. The brand must not be a good one. But u should be able to tell that just by looking at the warranty
The box I mentioned is where the main power line runs into the house; it holds the circuit breakers and each line runs out of it from the breakers to the different areas of your residence. I added 2 new circuit breakers to mine after I checked to see if the box itself was rated high enough (rarely a problem these days), added up the total amperage draw under worst conditions to size the breakers and wires (all Full Load Amperages of all loads or devices), then ran it all and connected outlets at the ends and I was in business. Both lines committed entirely to grow units. It sounds more complicated than it is really.
Yea its definitely easy once you know what your doing. The way my house is set up each room should be able to carry and hold 4000w. But for safe measure I run my AC which is 8000 BTU which is a 15amp that carries 1540w threw a 14 gauge 15amp 15ft cord threw the living room. I didnt want to much running all in one room just incase a fire broke out.
My RDWC set up with lights already runs about 800w. Everything is ran to a grounded cord and a safe circuit box just to prevent fire if any power outage or shortage.
JBC I think you should try out a magnetic ballast. Hydrofarm has good ones thats what I run for my lights. 5 year warranty as well.
My RDWC set up with lights already runs about 800w. Everything is ran to a grounded cord and a safe circuit box just to prevent fire if any power outage or shortage.
JBC I think you should try out a magnetic ballast. Hydrofarm has good ones thats what I run for my lights. 5 year warranty as well.
I pull 1,380 watts from my 30 amp line during a 15 minute overlap of 2 grow units, so I decided to go a separate outlet and breaker. Knowing in the future that volume = hydroponics = extra amperage draw (and that my closet could eventually become a room), I thought I should go that route. The second run is a 20 amp breaker, but never exceeds 1,000 amps with all 3 units running (I'm only using 2 now).
Yeah I agree with you, JB42. Being that it happened twice, it's not likely that it's the ballast itself. It seems that the breaker would trip before the ballast were damaged. Maybe the ballast drawing amperage through a lower rated or too long of a cord IS the problem.
Yeah I agree with you, JB42. Being that it happened twice, it's not likely that it's the ballast itself. It seems that the breaker would trip before the ballast were damaged. Maybe the ballast drawing amperage through a lower rated or too long of a cord IS the problem.
- Thread starter
- #588
The cable is on a coil but only out 1m. What are the benefits of using a magnetic ballast?
really gutted with this as I really liked the hps through flower but now i'm stuck as I cant get to the shop yet as i'm always working.
Funny thing is, is that the ballast ran fine for a month or so before it blew first time. Then the extension was changed and it blew a week later. So i put the new one on the old extension lead and the thing blew straight away.
I hope they take it back again and can give me some direction as it will be easier to explain face to face.
Thanks for the help guys!! reps to the team
really gutted with this as I really liked the hps through flower but now i'm stuck as I cant get to the shop yet as i'm always working.
Funny thing is, is that the ballast ran fine for a month or so before it blew first time. Then the extension was changed and it blew a week later. So i put the new one on the old extension lead and the thing blew straight away.
I hope they take it back again and can give me some direction as it will be easier to explain face to face.
Thanks for the help guys!! reps to the team
Upload a picture of the extension cord. And the tag if it still has it attached. I'd like to see the specs.
As for magnetic ballast, they run alot easier and more simple. No extra heat and also depending on which magnetic ballast you get theres ones that have automatic shut off if they get over heated or if your temps exceed 100F. They dont pull as much electricity as well. In my opinion they last alot longer and for safety reason I would prefer magnetic over digital.
Theres also alot better/cheap bulbs for magnetic vs digital as well.
As for magnetic ballast, they run alot easier and more simple. No extra heat and also depending on which magnetic ballast you get theres ones that have automatic shut off if they get over heated or if your temps exceed 100F. They dont pull as much electricity as well. In my opinion they last alot longer and for safety reason I would prefer magnetic over digital.
Theres also alot better/cheap bulbs for magnetic vs digital as well.
- Thread starter
- #590
Its an old builder extension and the numbers are rubbed off. Also my camera is broke or i'd upload some pics of the Blue Mystic buds cured. They are Niiiiice All I can see on the plug is 13amp, 240v. But the other one broke on a different extension, wierd.
The light cable that plugs into it was the thing making the electric fizz as it moved in the outlet as i moved it a bit because it had play even when pluggein in properly.
This is the ballast, but surely it cant be the outlet or they wouldnt be selling them. Or cant see it being the lamp as they are just cables and they are made for them.
All I can see on the plug is 13amp, 240v. But the other one broke on a different extension, wierd. The light cable that plugs into it was the thing making the electric fizz as it moved in the outlet as i moved it a bit because it had play even when pluggein in properly.
This is the ballast, but surely it cant be the outlet or they wouldnt be selling them. Or cant see it being the lamp as they are just cables and they are made for them.
I just read some specs on your ballast. I didnt see any bad reviews so far about the ballast or company. I think there still failry new. But some info maybe that will help. Also its a china company so idk how well those ballast would be made since there not american made
Instead of using an extension to run from your ballast to the wall, how about plugging the ballast directly into the wall and then using an extension to run the lamp to the ballast. It says that ballast can be max 49ft away from the lamp.
Instead of using an extension to run from your ballast to the wall, how about plugging the ballast directly into the wall and then using an extension to run the lamp to the ballast. It says that ballast can be max 49ft away from the lamp.
- Thread starter
- #592
Yeah I think I will next time. I will stll need to run it through the timer though wont I? I cant be turning it on myself everyday. That would be a nightmare.
Thanks for the info wiz! Reall helping me out here. Glad there people like you and Chimpman here
Thanks for the info wiz! Reall helping me out here. Glad there people like you and Chimpman here
Yea Im pretty sure if you have a digital timer instead of one of those click the grey things down timers then you should be fine. No problem on the info. Keeps me busy
But I would def hit up the company and see what they recommend. Tell them you already went threw 2 ballast with in a 2months range. They probably would refund you or something.
But I would def hit up the company and see what they recommend. Tell them you already went threw 2 ballast with in a 2months range. They probably would refund you or something.
Wait. Did you say you really liked it (this ballast) through flowering with the HPS? But then started having problems with it after switching to MH, which started humming? This would make it possibly something to do with the bulb itself. Is the MH bulb digital compatible (most are)? If not, maybe the ballast isn't switching over to MH automatically? I know it sounds stupid, but could a vertical MH bulb run horizontally maybe do this?
- Thread starter
- #595
No the thing blew on the hps as well. First one on hps, second on the MH in minutes. The MH was ringing to begin with though. I got them both from the same shop though , so the guy should of known.
I am using one of them plastic click the things in timer though. I'l check the specs on that now.
I am using one of them plastic click the things in timer though. I'l check the specs on that now.
- Thread starter
- #596
The timer is 13amp as well and can take 3100w or something. So a 600w ballast might not be the problem.
Im confused.
Im confused.
Im super confused my self. I just took another look at the website and it seems they only make 400w max switchable ballast. Check out the web site if you can. So I may be mistaken but check out the specs. I bolded what caught my eye. Is your lamp running these same specs thats bolded? Cause im guessing the guy at the hydro store gave you the wrong ballast you may have wanted or misunderstood horribly
Specification Parameters Applications
Strike voltage 3.5~5kV
Required lamp voltage 85~130V
Voltage input range 108Vac~305Vac / 90Vac~265Vac
Rating V. In 100/120/220/230/240/277Vac
Input frequency 50Hz~60Hz
Power factor ＞0.99
Efficiency 88 %( Max)
THD ＜10%
Output power(optional dimming) 2 / 3 ways step dimming, 0~10V continuous dimming
Current crest factor ＜1.5
Output frequency approx. 170 Hz
Protection of short circuit Yes
Protection of open circuit Yes
Protection of ignition failure Yes
Protection of thermal Yes
Protection of end of lamp life (EOL) Yes
Weight 2.5kg/5.51lb
Max. Lamp distance from ballast 15m/49ft
Operating temperature range -30℃~+50℃
Dimension (L X W X H) 265X108X79 (mm)/10.43X4.25X3.11 (inch)
Max case temperature (T C) 90℃
Safety and regulation IEC61347
EMC
Specification Parameters Applications
Strike voltage 3.5~5kV
Required lamp voltage 85~130V
Voltage input range 108Vac~305Vac / 90Vac~265Vac
Rating V. In 100/120/220/230/240/277Vac
Input frequency 50Hz~60Hz
Power factor ＞0.99
Efficiency 88 %( Max)
THD ＜10%
Output power(optional dimming) 2 / 3 ways step dimming, 0~10V continuous dimming
Current crest factor ＜1.5
Output frequency approx. 170 Hz
Protection of short circuit Yes
Protection of open circuit Yes
Protection of ignition failure Yes
Protection of thermal Yes
Protection of end of lamp life (EOL) Yes
Weight 2.5kg/5.51lb
Max. Lamp distance from ballast 15m/49ft
Operating temperature range -30℃~+50℃
Dimension (L X W X H) 265X108X79 (mm)/10.43X4.25X3.11 (inch)
Max case temperature (T C) 90℃
Safety and regulation IEC61347
EMC
- Thread starter
- #598
no the ballast runs a higher voltage.
Do you reckon it could be something to do with the hood or hood cable. when I moved that it made the ballast spark where the hood cable joins the ballast.
Do you reckon it could be something to do with the hood or hood cable. when I moved that it made the ballast spark where the hood cable joins the ballast.
Yea that could be the main problem. The specs for the ballast has to be the same for the hood.
- Thread starter
- #600
I never knew that. It was a hood I used for 250w CFL lamps and had no problem for years. They give me a hood with the ballast but I didnt use it. They didnt tell me that. I told them I already had a hood I could use and nearly let them keep the one that comes with the ballast. 
Right, all becoming clear. Thanks wiz you saved my head with this one. Really appreciate all the help 
Well seems it time to take the second one back to the shop, tell them the story and get it swapped, again , oops.
Right, all becoming clear. Thanks wiz you saved my head with this one. Really appreciate all the help
Well seems it time to take the second one back to the shop, tell them the story and get it swapped, again , oops.
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