Quantum board question

[Hdinkleman]

Are you reference to the Driver here or the QB bds?

If driver, what is the full driver description and the boards yer using

Are u plugging in the driver to a watt meter to determine actual watts pulling from the wall

no i dont have the money for that, im going off of the manufacturers details

• Driver Adjustable from 135-285 Watts
• Veg Footprint: 4’ x 4’
• Recommended Flower Footprint: 3’ x 3’ or 2’ x 4’
• 2 Ki

so i was just estimating, if 0% is 135, and 100% is 285, theres a 150 watt difference.
so 135 + 75( 50% of 150) is 210 watts, and so on and so forth.
i made a few small marks to where the driver stops to mark 0% and 100% and just estimate from there

its hlg 260

 

[Chris Scorpio]

I'd judge by a real meter, even a phone app is real life data not a guesstimate from a chart

But that's me


So you don't have the light or driver????

no i dont have the money for that, im going off of the manufacturers details

• Driver Adjustable from 135-285 Watts
• Veg Footprint: 4’ x 4’
• Recommended Flower Footprint: 3’ x 3’ or 2’ x 4’
• 2 Ki

 

[Hdinkleman]

I'd judge by a real meter, even a phone app is real life data not a guesstimate from a chart

But that's me


So you don't have the light or driver????

ok so youre just trolling me at this point and i already got answers on my own so whatever

 

[Chris Scorpio]

ok so youre just trolling me at this point and i already got answers on my own so whatever

Chill buddy, trying to help u

 

[Virgin Ground]

Leaf tacoing isn't only caused by heat stress. Leds that are too close will do this as well. The leaf is trying to make a smaller surface area as it is being overwhelmed.

Chris doesn't troll ,btw.

What is the actual website you got the calculator from? Try not to post off site links. Just tell me.

Some of the info was based off of a paper from 1970s.

 

[Hdinkleman]

Leaf tacoing isn't only caused by heat stress. Leds that are too close will do this as well. The leaf is trying to make a smaller surface area as it is being overwhelmed.

Chris doesn't troll ,btw.

What is the actual website you got the calculator from? Try not to post off site links. Just tell me.

Some of the info was based off of a paper from 1970s.

it might of been that, i posted it earlier in the thread, its from purdue college i believe its

Fttp://dev.edman007.com/~edman007/pub/par-dli-cal.html

the F is a H in the address above. yes thats the reason i was asking, the board is 24” away from the canopy right now

 

[Virgin Ground]

I also run a 260 watt hlg qb. Mine is the x -long version.

When your plants are young, I wouldn't go closer than 24" . A tropical sativa may be able to handle more light than a young indica. As they get through to normal veg you can bring it down a bit at a time, watching for stress markers. I didn't get any closer than 14" full flower. I run my board at about 80-90% except when I have transplanted or the plant is sick. I never run it full.

The point I'm trying to make is different plants can handle different amounts of light and a light calculator will only get you so far.

I do understand your frustration, hlg was less than forthcoming when it comes to operating instructions for these fixtures.

 

[Chris Scorpio]

The challenge is the bds paired to a driver that may not even max it out

IE

The 288bds are max 139w each at 2800ma
But at 2100ma they max at 102w each
So maximum output based on the normal g hlg-240h-2100 driver they send is about 206w at the wall

Now if you have the 304bds then it's much better

304 154w max at 1400ma per bd
But not sure what driver they would send with that

Thus the watt meter at the wall to be sure what yer actually pulling

I run my 288s, at max, at about 24" ish in veg

 

[Hdinkleman]

The challenge is the bds paired to a driver that may not even max it out

IE

The 288bds are max 139w each at 2800ma
But at 2100ma they max at 102w each
So maximum output based on the normal g hlg-240h-2100 driver they send is about 206w at the wall

Now if you have the 304bds then it's much better

304 154w max at 1400ma per bd
But not sure what driver they would send with that

Thus the watt meter at the wall to be sure what yer actually pulling

I run my 288s, at max, at about 24" ish in veg

they are the 288 vtwos i got it from growers lights preassembled for the extra 20$. its ok i just was half stoned in the op too. better wuestion is just
if the plant is receving 800 ppfd does it really matter if its from 135 watts or 265 watts? its prob too vague a question without myself having a par meter. im just going to keepe the board at 24” at 25% onthe driver. its only one plant so between the board at that power and eye hortilux and the sunblaster (both 28 watt flouros) i think i have enough light i guess.
i think i understand the relationship between space/par and yield a little better though.
basically you are able to grow more flower if you can spread 800 ppfd farther, thus giving you more space to grow buds, thats why theres a limit to a light, because you cant get the edges of its footprint to 800, so that becomes the limiting factor in how much grams per meter squared the breeders expectations is.
or maybe im just tired and stoned and need to sleep

 

[Hdinkleman]

and yeah thats why it will be very hard if not impossible to get a lb in my size tent.
breeders suggestion is 500-600 g\m2 and my tent is approx .75 sq meters so it will be very close if its at all possible. i just gotta be diligent with training to spread the canopy and control it as mich as possible to get as many of the colas under that 800ppfd footprint of my light as possible.
and so thats what my orinignal question was on my mind to begin with

 

[Remystemple]

Listen to Chris buddy.
I know it hurts but he shoots from the hip and knows his stuff, and these are the best people to take advice from. I swear he almost made me cry once or twice

 

[Hdinkleman]

The challenge is the bds paired to a driver that may not even max it out

IE

The 288bds are max 139w each at 2800ma
But at 2100ma they max at 102w each
So maximum output based on the normal g hlg-240h-2100 driver they send is about 206w at the wall

Now if you have the 304bds then it's much better

304 154w max at 1400ma per bd
But not sure what driver they would send with that

Thus the watt meter at the wall to be sure what yer actually pulling

I run my 288s, at max, at about 24" ish in veg

ill check tomorrow and get a picture of the driver, i know they are 288 v2s onthe led but dont think they gave an option for the driver
going to swith one of the flouros for another eye hortilux fs+ uv in a week or so too hopefully that will help out some as well

 

[PurpleGunRack]

Don't waste time fiddling with such a culculator, medicate and spend some time in the garden

They're way too inaccurate and even if you take the full lm/w calculation with the correct values a conversion to PPFD will be IIRC at least 7% off compared to the readings from a quantum sensor or a sphere test.

If you can keep a decent temperature run each 288 board at 135w. More light = more and/or better bud

Don't worry about the tacoing, it's (most likely) minor light stress, not heat stress, and it doesn't seem to have any negative effects, actually some of the best plants I've grown tacoed up like crazy.


As long as the flowers don't bleach and eat up the photons, f**k the leaves

DSC03917.JPG

• PurpleGunRack
• Dec 4, 2018

 

[PurpleGunRack]

Like force feeding fois gras ducks/geese, just a little less evil

 

[Hdinkleman]

 

[Chris Scorpio]

Yup, so max watts for that bd is 102w per board, at full power

That is the driver that runs my 288 bds

My Quantum PAR meter shows as follows with bds at full blast


24" aprox 300umol
20" aprox 380umol

 

[Hdinkleman]

Yup, so max watts for that bd is 102w per board, at full power

That is the driver that runs my 288 bds

My Quantum PAR meter shows as follows with bds at full blast


24" aprox 300umol
20" aprox 380umol

so im not real versed in umol, what does that mean? in terms of what i want the plants to have?

 

[Hdinkleman]

Don't waste time fiddling with such a culculator, medicate and spend some time in the garden

They're way too inaccurate and even if you take the full lm/w calculation with the correct values a conversion to PPFD will be IIRC at least 7% off compared to the readings from a quantum sensor or a sphere test.

If you can keep a decent temperature run each 288 board at 135w. More light = more and/or better bud

Don't worry about the tacoing, it's (most likely) minor light stress, not heat stress, and it doesn't seem to have any negative effects, actually some of the best plants I've grown tacoed up like crazy.


As long as the flowers don't bleach and eat up the photons, f**k the leaves

DSC03917.JPG

• PurpleGunRack
• Dec 4, 2018

this makes sense to me, thanks, im still at the stage where im trying to make love to these girls, instead of rip them in half and get what i really want lol

 

[Chris Scorpio]

That's the PAR reading, true reading
Like lumens but for white lights

Good article to read

Why is PAR Rating a Big Deal for Indoor Grow Light Systems?

Why is PAR Rating a Big Deal for Indoor Grow Light Systems. PAR is one of the biggest factors in whether your grow lights will provide you with the best yield for your garden. PAR is a part of our benchmark measures when testing grow light systems. It can be used to test all types of HID grow...

growace.com