Green Utopia
New Member
Great stuff, Doc!
I wish I had something to contribute, but I'm just along for the ride!
Thanks!
I wish I had something to contribute, but I'm just along for the ride!
Thanks!
Un-Lucky Queen 12/12 Hempy
- Thread starter Doc Bud
- Start date
Green Utopia
New Member
Actually, I will reinforce one thing - your list of things to help make fems.
I use that same list from the Medical Grower's Bible and I've gotten great results.
I've gotten better than 80% females from the last 20 seeds sprouted.
And 100% female from feminized of course.
I use that same list from the Medical Grower's Bible and I've gotten great results.
I've gotten better than 80% females from the last 20 seeds sprouted.
And 100% female from feminized of course.
- Thread starter
- #163
I'm stealing this.
Yep. I'm optimizing PH for both. 5.8 for Hempy, 6.5 for Soil. (do you like that number for soil? SS?)
Towards the end, I'll run straight water through both at 6.5, with maybe a touch of dolomite lime under the dripper in the soil.
I may actually do that earlier, if I get tired of mixing up two batches of water.....takes an extra 5 minutes to do that.
LOL! yep. If you bust open the prills....you get all the nutes all at once. Takes the "time" out of Time Released!
Great stuff, Doc!
I wish I had something to contribute, but I'm just along for the ride!
Thanks!
Actually, I will reinforce one thing - your list of things to help make fems.
I use that same list from the Medical Grower's Bible and I've gotten great results.
I've gotten better than 80% females from the last 20 seeds sprouted.
And 100% female from feminized of course.
Thanks Papa!
It really does work. I'm still surprised at how many people use the paper towel method and all that stuff that just stresses the seeds.
Here's another update:
I watered the Hempy's this morning. They didn't need it, per se, but I got a tip from someone who also grows in perlite, that it won't hurt to keep them moist. They grew about 2 inches overnight....the Hempy's are quite a bit larger than their soil sisters. So, since bloom is hitting fast and furious I mixed up the following:
Tap water
10ml Botanicare Sweet
10ml Hygrozyme
3ml H2O2
1/2 tsp Atami Bloombastic
Ph'd to 5.9. Total PPM 420! (seriously, that's what it came out to. I didn't have my camera!)
I watered all of them with this solution, in order to give them a little boost during stretch. I honestly don't know if it was needed, but in the past my hempy's always showed a bit of Magnesium deficiency right after stretch, so I just wanted to give them a little boost as a prevention.
The soil pots don't need water yet, but I'll hit them with the Hygrozyme, Sweet, and Atami when I water them. I won't need to feed the Advanced Nutrients soil plant on it's next watering.
I'm tempted to not supplement these plants at all, and just let the Osmocote do its thing.....but I'm not trying to be too scientific, I just want some healthy plants and a good harvest.
Oh....one other interesting thing. These plants are all, by far, the smelliest bunch I've ever grown. Whether that's due to the strain or due to the nutrients....or both...usually they don't even smell at this size.
I'm going to incorporate some Snowstorm Ultra in the next week.
This is what the product says:
I haven't decided if I'm going to foliar feed it, or water with it.
- Thread starter
- #164
I snuck in during the dark to take some pictures. These were taken with the plants sound asleep, but you get a clear image of what color they are and the size.
They range from about 7 to 11 inches tall, and they've just started the stretch. The should end up at about 24 inches tall. I'm hoping for cola's in the 15 inch range....an ounce per plant would be lovely.
They range from about 7 to 11 inches tall, and they've just started the stretch. The should end up at about 24 inches tall. I'm hoping for cola's in the 15 inch range....an ounce per plant would be lovely.
They really did well with the 12/12 schedule from seed.
I've read some 12/12 threads where strain was mentioned as being critical to success with 12/12 from seed, and I'm sure some do better with it than others, but yours are looking great.
One oz per plant would be awesome considering that you could pack a good number of plants that size into a small area.
Have you noticed any difference in the branching pattern with the 12/12?
I've read some 12/12 threads where strain was mentioned as being critical to success with 12/12 from seed, and I'm sure some do better with it than others, but yours are looking great.
One oz per plant would be awesome considering that you could pack a good number of plants that size into a small area.
Have you noticed any difference in the branching pattern with the 12/12?
- Thread starter
- #166
I haven't noticed too much difference in branching....there is still some side branching, which I may trim off, depending on how it develops.
I think strains with a good amount of tropical sativa in them do best with 12/12. Afterall, the light cycle at the equator is 12/12.
Super happy looking plants Doc.
Sativa dominant hybrids that don't produce a lot of lateral growth are supposed to be best for a 12/12 sog.
That said, I have two indica dominant hybrids started in 12/12, both on TR nutes. They are about six inches tall and just beginning to show pistils. I'm not expecting much out of them, they were freebies. Fun to play with.
Sativa dominant hybrids that don't produce a lot of lateral growth are supposed to be best for a 12/12 sog.
That said, I have two indica dominant hybrids started in 12/12, both on TR nutes. They are about six inches tall and just beginning to show pistils. I'm not expecting much out of them, they were freebies. Fun to play with.
It would depend on the PH of the runoff. If it dropped below 6.0, I'd adjust it up a bit higher to compensate.
Are you going to supplement the Osmocote only if you see a deficiency? I was sorta hoping to see how it did on its own, but it's your grow brah
.- Thread starter
- #169
It would depend on the PH of the runoff. If it dropped below 6.0, I'd adjust it up a bit higher to compensate.
Are you going to supplement the Osmocote only if you see a deficiency? I was sorta hoping to see how it did on its own, but it's your grow brah
LOL. I know.....I was really torn, but look at it this way:
Except for one dose of a bloom booster, we're going to see how the osmocote does on its own.
I still haven't given the soil plants a bloom booster....
- Thread starter
- #170
I apologize for being such a picture 'Ho....but I am really excited about this grow. Things are going very well so far, with growth rates that are spectacular.
All of the plants are doing great, no deficiencies, no nute burn. The two weaker plants are:
1.)The Un-Lucky Queen. It's doing fine, but compared to the others it's a bit smaller and it does have the claw just a little. It is the most advanced as far as flower development, however.
2.)The Advanced Nutrients Hempy. The "claw" is going away, because I basically flushed it, but there is some leaf stunting and the overall color isn't as good as the one's with the Osmocote. It is the smallest of the Hempy bunch, but I must stress that overall I would still consider it a healthy plant.
I should be clear in saying that I don't think it's fair to blame the smaller, weaker nature of the AN Hempy on the nutes. It could be that it's simply a weaker plant.
The AN plant in soil is doing very well, as good as the Osmocote.
AN Hempy
AN soil:
Un-Lucky Queen on the left:
Random garden shots
As you can see, 1.73 worth of nutes is every bit as good as the ultra expensive AN line when it comes to germination and veg through early stretch.
It takes me less time to water the 8 Osmocote plants than it does the single AN plant.
Here's what goes into the AN feed:
1.)Part A
2.)Part B
3.)Hygrozyme
4.)Big Bud (just starting this)
5.)Sweet
6.)Ph down
7.)Superthrive (for 10 more days, then I will stop it.)
Here's what goes into the Osmocote feed:
1.)Tap water
2.)Hygrozyme
3.)Ph down
4.)Superthrive (for 10 more days)
5.)optional additives (Sweet, Hammerhead, Bloombastic...all optional during stretch)
Keep in mind that all the Osmocote plants would do fine with only water, while the AN's would surely weaken and die. Most of the feedings on the Osmocote plants will only have PH'd water and Hygrozyme.
All of the plants are doing great, no deficiencies, no nute burn. The two weaker plants are:
1.)The Un-Lucky Queen. It's doing fine, but compared to the others it's a bit smaller and it does have the claw just a little. It is the most advanced as far as flower development, however.
2.)The Advanced Nutrients Hempy. The "claw" is going away, because I basically flushed it, but there is some leaf stunting and the overall color isn't as good as the one's with the Osmocote. It is the smallest of the Hempy bunch, but I must stress that overall I would still consider it a healthy plant.
I should be clear in saying that I don't think it's fair to blame the smaller, weaker nature of the AN Hempy on the nutes. It could be that it's simply a weaker plant.
The AN plant in soil is doing very well, as good as the Osmocote.
AN Hempy
AN soil:
Un-Lucky Queen on the left:
Random garden shots
As you can see, 1.73 worth of nutes is every bit as good as the ultra expensive AN line when it comes to germination and veg through early stretch.
It takes me less time to water the 8 Osmocote plants than it does the single AN plant.
Here's what goes into the AN feed:
1.)Part A
2.)Part B
3.)Hygrozyme
4.)Big Bud (just starting this)
5.)Sweet
6.)Ph down
7.)Superthrive (for 10 more days, then I will stop it.)
Here's what goes into the Osmocote feed:
1.)Tap water
2.)Hygrozyme
3.)Ph down
4.)Superthrive (for 10 more days)
5.)optional additives (Sweet, Hammerhead, Bloombastic...all optional during stretch)
Keep in mind that all the Osmocote plants would do fine with only water, while the AN's would surely weaken and die. Most of the feedings on the Osmocote plants will only have PH'd water and Hygrozyme.
No need to apologize Doc, love the pics and the status updates. This is my favorite grow!
Looks like someone has been playing with the nail gun!
- Thread starter
- #173
Update:
Well, things continue to grow fast and green.
There are distinct differences between the soil and the hempys that are becoming apparent.
Across the board, the hempys are larger plants, no question about that.
However, while they are larger, they are also a lighter shade of green and, at least to my eye, do not look as healthy as the soil plants. Don't get me wrong, the hempy plants are VERY healthy, but the soil plants are a darker shade of green, and the stems are a bit thicker and the leaves are a tad perkier.
Also, the osmocote plants have definitely pulled away from the AN plants, with the differences most apparent in the hempy group. The first pic is of the AN Hempy's fan leaf, the second of the AN soil right next to it.
Not bad, right? I mean, there's no burning, no deficiencies, but the tip is curled under slightly...no problem....pretty good.....
Now compare it to a typical Osmocote soil leaf:
I think this leaf is nearly perfect, and in fact all of the Osmocote plants look like this....definitely better than the AN's. The only difference is that the hempy Osmocotes are lighter green, and have stems that are slightly less thick.....even though the plants are larger.
Flowering is well under way:
I think a Sea of Green with about 5 more plants might be in my future, right now it's more like a "bay" of green.
Well, things continue to grow fast and green.
There are distinct differences between the soil and the hempys that are becoming apparent.
Across the board, the hempys are larger plants, no question about that.
However, while they are larger, they are also a lighter shade of green and, at least to my eye, do not look as healthy as the soil plants. Don't get me wrong, the hempy plants are VERY healthy, but the soil plants are a darker shade of green, and the stems are a bit thicker and the leaves are a tad perkier.
Also, the osmocote plants have definitely pulled away from the AN plants, with the differences most apparent in the hempy group. The first pic is of the AN Hempy's fan leaf, the second of the AN soil right next to it.
Not bad, right? I mean, there's no burning, no deficiencies, but the tip is curled under slightly...no problem....pretty good.....
Now compare it to a typical Osmocote soil leaf:
I think this leaf is nearly perfect, and in fact all of the Osmocote plants look like this....definitely better than the AN's. The only difference is that the hempy Osmocotes are lighter green, and have stems that are slightly less thick.....even though the plants are larger.
Flowering is well under way:
I think a Sea of Green with about 5 more plants might be in my future, right now it's more like a "bay" of green.
- Thread starter
- #174
Never a dull moment.....that's the single best description of my garden.
The next best description is "It's always one of the plants in the back, that is hardest to reach."
I've got two hermies amongst the soil group. It just so happens they are the two furthest away from my viewing eye. I found them while measuring tubing for the autowatering system.
So, now I get to test a new product!
Dutch Master Gold Range Reverse
FOLIAR SPRAY:
Gold Range REVERSE - USAGE INSTRUCTIONS
Available in:
1 Litre, 5 Litres
*
Male Flowers Causing Headaches & Ruining Your Crop?
*
What An Ugly Sight! Every Growers Worst Nightmare!
*
Simply Spray Gold Range REVERSE With The Lights On — It's That Easy!
*
No Dilution Required. Ready To Spray — Just Add Gold Range SATURATOR!
You've heard the rumours......... Well it's true! Experience for yourself what "those in the know" have been talking about. Gold Range REVERSE is the latest design in 'unwanted-flower' foliar sprays and follows on from our world renown original REVERSE that was designed by our in-house Plant Physiology and Biochemistry scientists.
Gold Range REVERSE is a ready to use (no dilution required) foliar spray that quickly and efficiently helps to bring peace to a grower's worst nightmare.... awful seed problems! The unique formulation enables Gold Range REVERSE to help reduce that headache!
Modern science allows Gold Range REVERSE to achieve this remarkable feat by its beneficial effects on the Mesophyll layer of the plant. This layer is responsible for most of a plants energy production (photosynthesis) and more importantly is the starting point of all the metabolic pathways. Simply put, the selected minerals provide your plants with the vigour they need to channel the correct metabolites in the pathways responsible for flowering, helping to correct any imbalances.
End result for you when you use Gold Range REVERSE... LESS MALE HEADACHES!
Note: Gold Range REVERSE will not turn a male plant into a female plant.
The next best description is "It's always one of the plants in the back, that is hardest to reach."
I've got two hermies amongst the soil group. It just so happens they are the two furthest away from my viewing eye. I found them while measuring tubing for the autowatering system.
Dutch Master Gold Range Reverse
FOLIAR SPRAY:
Gold Range REVERSE - USAGE INSTRUCTIONS
Available in:
1 Litre, 5 Litres
*
Male Flowers Causing Headaches & Ruining Your Crop?
*
What An Ugly Sight! Every Growers Worst Nightmare!
*
Simply Spray Gold Range REVERSE With The Lights On — It's That Easy!
*
No Dilution Required. Ready To Spray — Just Add Gold Range SATURATOR!
You've heard the rumours......... Well it's true! Experience for yourself what "those in the know" have been talking about. Gold Range REVERSE is the latest design in 'unwanted-flower' foliar sprays and follows on from our world renown original REVERSE that was designed by our in-house Plant Physiology and Biochemistry scientists.
Gold Range REVERSE is a ready to use (no dilution required) foliar spray that quickly and efficiently helps to bring peace to a grower's worst nightmare.... awful seed problems! The unique formulation enables Gold Range REVERSE to help reduce that headache!
Modern science allows Gold Range REVERSE to achieve this remarkable feat by its beneficial effects on the Mesophyll layer of the plant. This layer is responsible for most of a plants energy production (photosynthesis) and more importantly is the starting point of all the metabolic pathways. Simply put, the selected minerals provide your plants with the vigour they need to channel the correct metabolites in the pathways responsible for flowering, helping to correct any imbalances.
End result for you when you use Gold Range REVERSE... LESS MALE HEADACHES!
Note: Gold Range REVERSE will not turn a male plant into a female plant.
Thanks for the update and interesting observations!
The soil/osmocote combo is sounding good, but then so are the larger hempy plants though lighter in shade of green.
Hope the spray brings your hermies back from walkin' the wild side.
The soil/osmocote combo is sounding good, but then so are the larger hempy plants though lighter in shade of green.
Hope the spray brings your hermies back from walkin' the wild side.
It looks like different lighting for those two leaves so it's a little tough to see the differences. Are you using any beneficial microbes in the soilless pots? My guess is that the micro herd is giving the soil grown plants a bit of a boost. I highly recommend beneficial microbes in hydro for this reason.
Great find on the DM Reverse product. I'm very interested in the outcome of this.
Great find on the DM Reverse product. I'm very interested in the outcome of this.
- Thread starter
- #177
Yeah, me too about the spray....
A funny thing happened: I don't know if it was the Martini with dinner, or the fact that the instructions are a little different, but I got confused.
It says mix 10mil Gold Range Saturator with 1 Litre Gold Range Reverse, in that order. The print is very small, I used a magnifying glass. Anyhow, I mixed it up in reverse, so I sprayed the plants with nearly pure saturator, which is basically a detergent. Then, upon realizing my mistake, I mixed it up correctly and re-sprayed them.
The plants don't look so good. New growth looks a bit sick as of this morning.
On the other hand....no bull, the bananas are gone.
So, we'll see if any permanent damage was done.
One thing about a 12/12 grow, you can't make any mistakes. If these plants were vegging, I wouldn't even worry, but now, since they're in flower, mistakes like this can be costly.
We'll see.
You've got something there regarding the micro herd. I'm going to have to do a comparison grow with all hempys....some with, some without.
BTW, I've watered a bit more often on the hempys and they have gotten darker, so maybe it was simply that the perlite didn't hold enough moisture to spread the nutrition out, and the wet stuff on the bottom wasn't getting sucked up because the roots hadn't quite made it?
I dunno. All I know is that until I screwed up, they were going great.
- Thread starter
- #178
I just went in and looked at them.....
Oh my....I may have killed them. They are really droopy and stunted...they look very sick.
Stay tuned. I don't know if they'll pull through or not.
Lesson learned: when you find hermies....spray the hermies only, not the whole crop. That way, if you royally screw up, you'll only kill the hermies.
And they were doing so fabulously well. The next few days will tell if they live or die.
Oh my....I may have killed them. They are really droopy and stunted...they look very sick.
Stay tuned. I don't know if they'll pull through or not.
Lesson learned: when you find hermies....spray the hermies only, not the whole crop. That way, if you royally screw up, you'll only kill the hermies.
And they were doing so fabulously well. The next few days will tell if they live or die.
We've all been there or are gonna be, so don't feel bad.
hoping they pull through!
hoping they pull through!
