What is your preferred method for removing chlorine or chloramine in tap water?

[The123321]

Thanks. How much do you use per gallon? If 1/4 tsp is enough for 40 gallons of water then like 1/10 of a 1/4 tsp should be enough for like 4 gallons right? Does anyone know if there are problems if you use more ascorbic acid vitamin c powder than you need for it on there?

 

[Apoc]

No the ascorbic acid just reduces the PH of the water it won't hurt anything.

 

[The123321]

Thanks.

 

[Johnny5thesim]

Thanks. Do you run an air pump with an air stone on there? Does it need to be in the dark to keep algae out of it?

I use a cheap aquarium grade pump with a small 2 port output. And 2 air stones that attach to it. It cost like $30 for it all. I refill 18L water bottles. And it sits in the dark. But just cause my storage room is dark. After 24 hours I cap it. And it sits until ready. Every so often I do a diluted bleach clean for my jugs. I’ve never had any issues.

I also want to reiterate I have chlorine in my water. Not chloramine. From what I understand, Chloramine won’t off gas. But don’t quote me on it!

 

[Ganja Bob]

You can get a water quality report from your water department. Many have it available online. That will tell you if there's ammonia in your water (chloramine) and if you need to adjust your prep for it.

 

[The123321]

Thanks. I plan to try the ascorbic acid vitamin c powder for it on there.

 

[AdaminCO]

Thanks. Do you run an air pump with an air stone on there? Does it need to be in the dark to keep algae out of it?

I don’t worry with any of that. I just keep it at room temp. 72ish

 

[The123321]

Thanks. With the ascorbic acid powder then there is no reason to need to leave the water sitting out? I can put like half a 1/4 teaspoon of the ascorbic acid powder in like 4 gallons of water and stir it up then use it right then? It does not need to off gas after the powder does what it does in it? Do you know if the powder stops working after a few days? I think I read somewhere that someone said it only works for a few days then breaks down but not sure if that was right as I have not read about that on more than that 1 website. I was thinking about putting it in the water the night before I plan to use it but if you do not need to let it sit out I may just do it right before I use it for it on there.

 

[Johnny5thesim]

I don’t worry with any of that. I just keep it at room temp. 72ish

Interesting! I was under the impression that oxygen starts becoming limited at that temp. I’ve always watered 65-68 based on the notion that above 70 or so isn’t ideal! I am pretty sure someone explained that to me on here in detail a good while ago.

 

[Emilya Green]

Thanks. With the ascorbic acid powder then there is no reason to need to leave the water sitting out? I can put like half a 1/4 teaspoon of the ascorbic acid powder in like 4 gallons of water and stir it up then use it right then? It does not need to off gas after the powder does what it does in it? Do you know if the powder stops working after a few days? I think I read somewhere that someone said it only works for a few days then breaks down but not sure if that was right as I have not read about that on more than that 1 website. I was thinking about putting it in the water the night before I plan to use it but if you do not need to let it sit out I may just do it right before I use it for it on there.

You sure have a lot of people supplying you with worrisome rumors! No, keep the ascorbic acid dry and it will last forever. Sitting water out allows it to pick up stuff from the atmosphere, so the pH changes, more co2 is added, and there is no need to sit it out. The ascorbic acid immediately drops the chlorine and the chloramine to the bottom of the bucket as sediment. It can not recombine. This is not a worry because you should simply mix it and use it... no need to wait for anything to happen. Don't be lazy and try to premix your fluids the night before... nutrient solutions will begin to interact with each other and can break apart... just measure twice, mix and pour. The only reason I can see to set water out overnight is if you are oxygenating it before mixing it with your nutes.

 

[AdaminCO]

Interesting! I was under the impression that oxygen starts becoming limited at that temp. I’ve always watered 65-68 based on the notion that above 70 or so isn’t ideal! I am pretty sure someone explained that to me on here in detail a good while ago.

I water at 73-75 because that what I understand to be ideal for microbial activity.
I haven’t really studied feeding temps in depth. @Emilya, have you any input on feeding temps?

 

[Emilya Green]

I water at 73-75 because that what I understand to be ideal for microbial activity.
I haven’t really studied feeding temps in depth. @Emilya, have you any input on feeding temps?

I would agree with this... I have always heard that they thrive best at room temp or slightly warmer. Hot is bad and ice water really really really slows them down.

 

[AdaminCO]

I would agree with this... I have always heard that they thrive best at room temp or slightly warmer. Hot is bad and ice water really really really slows them down.

You wouldn’t catch me in 65F water. Lol

 

[The123321]

Thanks. I thought I had read that adamin said he lets his sit out in rotation and I was wondering why that was. I thought that maybe the ascorbic acid vitamin c powder removes the chlorine from the chloramine then you may need to then let it evaporate but if you can use it right away that would be easier then for it on there.

 

[AdaminCO]

Mainly to bring it up to room temp. I run 5 gallons a day so I feed with one, refill it, set it in my office, then use the other the next day.
(My personal thought) You don’t want warm water from the sink because that pulls water from your water heater which could possibly introduce other undesirable metals/minerals and whatnot to your water.
I always fill with full on cold from the sink.

 

[The123321]

Thanks. I think my water from the cold water in tap is around 67-70 from what it says on my ph meter. The reservoir would likely be in the tent that is around 79 - 81 on there.

 

[AdaminCO]

I’m in Colorado so it’s really cold coming out... especially in winter. It just now started hitting the 70s here.

 

[r0am1ng st0ner]

I started reading the suggestions others offered and everyone is leading you the right way ascorbic acid does a fun little redox reaction with the chloramine molecule and is the best method I find. I used a fat heaping 1/8 tsp to like 4 gallon water and have done chlorine tests after some times and it made a extreme difference. That said I switched to RO as after a year of mixing in ascorbic acid I got lazy

 

[FatBeaverBuds]

Hmmmm lot's of methods mentioned above for removing chlorine/chloramine.
Do you really HAVE to remove it? My municipal tap uses Chlorine so I have zero experience with chloramine.

I fill my 5gal carboys straight from my bathtub faucet. After adding nutes & adjusting pH it goes straight into my DWC rezzys. No sitting out, no vitamin C. Works like a champ for me.

Tap water varies greatly. I'm lucky my water is suitable for hydro and I agree getting a copy of your water report is the best place to start.

Maybe try a small grow in the corner somewhere, use your tap water and see what happens.

 

[AdaminCO]

Here is what I found....


Chloramines make the water acidic which over time can change soil pH. This may result in nutrient tie-up and create yellowing (chlorosis) problems in many plants. Chloramines prevent the absorption of other nutrients which also may lead to yellowing.

The action of chlorine and chloramines kill bacteria both good and bad. Many good bacteria that live in the soil control fungal diseases. When we lose these good bacteria there is no natural control and turf grass diseases like "Brown Patch, Take All and St. Augustine Decline" become rampant. In other words the more one waters, the greater the chance that one will experience disease problems in their grass and other plants.

Chlorine and chloramines kill the nitrifying bacteria that fix nitrogen from the air into the soil. Hence additional nitrogen must be supplied to the plants to replace the loss of free nitrogen from nature.

Container plants (hanging baskets, pots, etc.) are more susceptible to damage from chloramines as they tend to require more watering.

Studies have shown that chloramines hurt the germination of seeds from many species of plants.

Chloramine is neutralized in the soil by reactions with organic matter, destroying it in the process. Organic matter in the form of humus can hold 15 times its weight in water, hence the soil loses some of its ability to hold and store water.

Chloramine hurts the production of compost tea as it kills off some of the microbial species that one is trying to grow to high densities. Note: One teaspoon of humic acid (liquid form of humate) can neutralize the chloramines in 100 gallons of water depending on the exact concentration of chloramines.

Using high humus products like compost, native mulches (that have been composted) and humate in ones landscape is the easiest way to minimize the damage from chloramines and chlorine. This ensures that even if some of the organic matter is destroyed and some of the beneficial microbes are killed, the soil life can quickly regenerate and prevent problems.