Yellowing leaves, downward leaf tips, red stems

[Newcannabislover]

Hi to all! I have a problem with yellowing leaves, downward turning leaf tips and red stems. Details are

Strain - sherbet cookies
Lights - 600 W Fluence LED
Nutes - Botanicare Pure Blend Bloom at label strength (currently 25 ml/gal),, CalMag 3 ml/gal, Liquid Karma at 5 ml/gal. nutes used every 3 days mixed with pH'd RO water
Week 5 of flower.
Growing 8 plants and all have red stems, but only half of the plants are showing these signs,

I saw these problems with my last grow of this strain, but added CalMag without much success.

Any ideas, suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[stinker]

To me they look hungry.

 

[Newcannabislover]

Thank you. I've heard/read so many different things about feeding. I'm growing in soil. Some places say use half strength nutes every other watering. Others say nutes with every water. Then a friend tells me to pour the nutes to plants until they show signs of stress, then back off a bit. So hard to figure out, especially since plants don't respond quickly to nute changes.

 

[stinker]

I feed every watering, and shoot for just short of too much. This is something that is worked up to. I keep a feeding log and adjust the next feed/water as needed. This is just what I do, it works for me.

 

[SmokeyB]

Yeah looks hungry for more nutes

 

[013]

when you mix your soup add cal mag first….. stir and wait 10 minutes then add your NPK, this helps prevent cal-mag from dropping out
leaf symptoms might be ph related too

 

[Emilya Green]

Hi to all! I have a problem with yellowing leaves, downward turning leaf tips and red stems. Details are

Strain - sherbet cookies
Lights - 600 W Fluence LED
Nutes - Botanicare Pure Blend Bloom at label strength (currently 25 ml/gal),, CalMag 3 ml/gal, Liquid Karma at 5 ml/gal. nutes used every 3 days mixed with pH'd RO water
Week 5 of flower.
Growing 8 plants and all have red stems, but only half of the plants are showing these signs,

I saw these problems with my last grow of this strain, but added CalMag without much success.

Any ideas, suggestions would be appreciated.

The red stems are not a problem. Instead, watch the leaves for indications of problems. I would check out a Botanicare feeding schedule to see if you have everything you need, instead of going by the label on the one bottle. I suspect you are missing something. Also, and this is very important... pH adjust your fluid AFTER adding your nutes... if you are pH adjusting the water before adding the nutes, the actual pH of your fluids hitting your soil is going to be way out of the needed range. This alone could be the reason your plants are not able to see the nutes long enough to get good out of them.

 

[Greenhouse Grows]

Yellowing on the fans leaves during flowering is very normal as the buds are taking up most of the nutrients especially when growing in soil. Abit more water can help as well.

 

[bluter]

Thank you. I've heard/read so many different things about feeding. I'm growing in soil.

what brand of soil did you go with ?

some lines have background nutes, which should be about depleted by now. it can sometimes make the switch to full bottle nutes a bit more difficult.

Some places say use half strength nutes every other watering. Others say nutes with every water.

a lot will depend on the nutes you use. the majority of bottle nute feed charts run hot, which has led to most growers following a half strength schedule. some nute lines don't have this issue, and it's left up to the grower to feel out what works best.


a feed / feed / water schedule or f/f/f/w schedule is followed by a lot of soil growers. it reduces salt buildup in the soil avoiding lockout and other issues.

Then a friend tells me to pour the nutes to plants until they show signs of stress, then back off a bit. So hard to figure out, especially since plants don't respond quickly to nute changes.

he's got the right idea. use the bottle chart to inform where you would be and work up to that level, starting from about half strength. as the plant is a bit hungry right now i'd be adding a little more in.

to help you can track the ec / ppm as well as logging the ml/gal. a good ec/ppm meter is a useful tool when starting out or changing nute lines.

 

[Emilya Green]

The above, while true, is quite advanced and not so easy for a new grower to achieve. Most of us starting out need a system that we can follow, and then get a few grows under our belts so we can start understanding what we are seeing and being recommended to do.

MOST growers use feed/water/feed/water because this is what soil was designed for. Feed in soil is double the strength of hydro feed, and this confuses a lot of people into thinking that we must cut soil feed in half. The truth of the matter is that every feeding in soil is actually two feedings. The plant takes what it can on the first pass and the unused nutrients are neatly stored temporarily in the soil. When you come along the next time and give only pH adjusted water, the soil releases the nutrients and the plant takes them up on the second pass, cleaning the soil and making it ready for the next feed.

Whatever your nutrient program of choice, follow their instructions to the letter. Establish a base line. Learn how to grow this weed and what to expect. Then... experiment, when you have a little stash saved up and don't feel pressured to have a great grow. Expect some difficulties as you learn... we all had them. Minimize that as much as you can by following a known published system.

 

[bluter]

MOST growers use feed/water/feed/water because this is what soil was designed for. Feed in soil is double the strength of hydro feed, and this confuses a lot of people into thinking that we must cut soil feed in half. The truth of the matter is that every feeding in soil is actually two feedings.

this exactly is what causes growers to go mad.

it is compounded immensely when we refer to a media as 'soil', when it actually is not. sunshine and hp media are hydro applications. even though they look like a soil to most folk and are constantly called one, they are not.

 

[Enjoying]

this exactly is what causes growers to go mad.

it is compounded immensely when we refer to a media as 'soil', when it actually is not. sunshine and hp media are hydro applications. even though they look like a soil to most folk and are constantly called one, they are not.

So this probably isn't the "right" place to post this BUT either you'll answer me or you won't =] and by NO MEANS am I trying to hijack this thread....

@bluter, I've heard you MAY be the person to talk to about growing in coco coir. If one used Baby Bu's Potting Soil from Malibu Compost what would you add for nutes during the grow? Would you call this a soiless mix, soil or...?

If you were to reuse this in the next season and hadn't added anything but compost tea the first what would you add?

 

[bluter]

So this probably isn't the "right" place to post this BUT either you'll answer me or you won't =] and by NO MEANS am I trying to hijack this thread....

@bluter, I've heard you MAY be the person to talk to about growing in coco coir. If one used Baby Bu's Potting Soil from Malibu Compost what would you add for nutes during the grow? Would you call this a soiless mix, soil or...?

If you were to reuse this in the next season and hadn't added anything but compost tea the first what would you add?

i'd have to research that media. what can you tell me about it ?

on the surface it appears you are mixing two growing approaches, which never works out the way it is envisioned.
you have the terms coco, potting soil, compost, and teas all lined up in the same breathe. 99% of the time they do not go hand in hand that way. too many approaches in the mix.

the first thing as newer grower to do is determine if you are growing organics or hydro. the rest will flow from that.
i've no clue where you're at.

 

[Enjoying]

i'd have to research that media. what can you tell me about it ?

on the surface it appears you are mixing two growing approaches, which never works out the way it is envisioned.
you have the terms coco, potting soil, compost, and teas all lined up in the same breathe. 99% of the time they do not go hand in hand that way. too many approaches in the mix.

the first thing as newer grower to do is determine if you are growing organics or hydro. the rest will flow from that.
i've no clue where you're at.

Sorry, my memory failed me.... I think it was you know hydroponics well...

As to what can I tell you about it. The answer is nothing I am only on my second grow this season.

My ideal approach would be fully organic when it comes to both pest and fertilser needs.

I source my tea from a guy at the farmers market. I know that sounds sketch af but it works and he seems like a legit dude. Obv I can read people wrong but lets just say its organic for the sake of simplicity =]

The ingredients are:
Coir, compost (composted organic dairy cow manure, wood chips, straw, concentrations of yarrow, chamomile, valerian, stinging nettle, dandelion, & oak bark), fir bark, perlite, worm castings, soybean meal, fish meal, fish bone meal, langbeinite, alfalfa meal, crab meal, green sand, neem seed meal & kelp meal.

Past that I am not sure if there is more to say yet.

 

[bluter]

Sorry, my memory failed me.... I think it was you know hydroponics well...

As to what can I tell you about it. The answer is nothing I am only on my second grow this season.

My ideal approach would be fully organic when it comes to both pest and fertilser needs.

I source my tea from a guy at the farmers market. I know that sounds sketch af but it works and he seems like a legit dude. Obv I can read people wrong but lets just say its organic for the sake of simplicity =]

The ingredients are:
Coir, compost (composted organic dairy cow manure, wood chips, straw, concentrations of yarrow, chamomile, valerian, stinging nettle, dandelion, & oak bark), fir bark, perlite, worm castings, soybean meal, fish meal, fish bone meal, langbeinite, alfalfa meal, crab meal, green sand, neem seed meal & kelp meal.

Past that I am not sure if there is more to say yet.

a quick google shows it is a non cannabis water only potting soil. you're in uncharted territory. good luck. i'd cling to that tea guy at the market, he's probably the only one on earth running this.

 

[Enjoying]

a quick google shows it is a non cannabis water only potting soil. you're in uncharted territory. good luck. i'd cling to that tea guy at the market, he's probably the only one on earth running this.

Those ingredients are for the dirt btw. After re reading my post just now I realised it may have come off as that is what is used in the tea. The only things I know that are used in the tea are kelp and compost. Idk the ingredients of the compost.

I used the dirt in my first grow last season and while I can't complain with the results as I don't smoke a lot and don't need a huge harvest, it would leave a lot to be desired for a seasoned grower had they just watered and used compost tea.

I reused it this season but cooked it a bit with Down to Earth Bio Live and I am not sure what happened either pH fluctuation that may have been fixed with dolomite lime, a bacterial/fungal attack or insect(s). I've gotten it happier but it still shows signs of whatever it was/is.

 

[bluter]

Those ingredients are for the dirt btw. After re reading my post just now I realised it may have come off as that is what is used in the tea. The only things I know that are used in the tea are kelp and compost. Idk the ingredients of the compost.

I used the dirt in my first grow last season and while I can't complain with the results as I don't smoke a lot and don't need a huge harvest, it would leave a lot to be desired for a seasoned grower had they just watered and used compost tea.

I reused it this season but cooked it a bit with Down to Earth Bio Live and I am not sure what happened either pH fluctuation that may have been fixed with dolomite lime, a bacterial/fungal attack or insect(s). I've gotten it happier but it still shows signs of whatever it was/is.

go have a look at @Nunyabiz 's grow journal. he runs organic and cooks his own soils.
you'd find better answers there for what you are doing. @NuttyProfessor is another that comes to mind, he also makes his own organic nutes and teas.

 

[Enjoying]

go have a look at @Nunyabiz 's grow journal. he runs organic and cooks his own soils.
you'd find better answers there for what you are doing. @NuttyProfessor is another that comes to mind, he also makes his own organic nutes and teas.

They both have helped me in the past for sure. This most recent purchase of dirt was FFOF and as most people like this I will probs stick to it. I just need to figure out how to reinvigorate as I would like to reuse my soil season after season. I would rather pay for nutes that will feed the soil for the season over time(to my understanding some mineralisation - legebenite, greensand a couple others don't break down fast enough to benefit next season but will the second, third and on) and most importantly the next. I need to figure out pH as I have read time and again that run off isn't the ideal measurement, but how do you measure dry amendment pH? A slurry of the soil would be my guess and does a pH pen read them accurately? Obv I could be totally wrong here...

 

[bluter]

They both have helped me in the past for sure. This most recent purchase of dirt was FFOF and as most people like this I will probs stick to it. I just need to figure out how to reinvigorate as I would like to reuse my soil season after season. I would rather pay for nutes that will feed the soil for the season over time(to my understanding some mineralisation - legebenite, greensand a couple others don't break down fast enough to benefit next season but will the second, third and on) and most importantly the next. I need to figure out pH as I have read time and again that run off isn't the ideal measurement, but how do you measure dry amendment pH? A slurry of the soil would be my guess and does a pH pen read them accurately? Obv I could be totally wrong here...

look in to a product called recharge - i'm hoping it's through one of the sponsors. i seem to remember it that way.

also look at coots and other cooked / organic soils. there's piles of guys running them on the board. closed loop organic is a bit of a long term goal for me and that's where i'd start.

where you're going won't have anything to do with ph etc. you wanna end up with a water only soil start to finish.

 

[Enjoying]

look in to a product called recharge - i'm hoping it's through one of the sponsors. i seem to remember it that way.

also look at coots and other cooked / organic soils. there's piles of guys running them on the board. closed loop organic is a bit of a long term goal for me and that's where i'd start.

where you're going won't have anything to do with ph etc. you wanna end up with a water only soil start to finish.

I have heard of it(Recharge) and thought about getting it a few times. I may just do it around next season if I haven't found some else to experiment with =] At the same time though I was hoping the compost tea would suffice for this purpose.

I have read a few threads here about soil and visited buildasoil website. Nunya mentioned coots blend awhile back and it is bookmarked so I remember it. I also found a few other things I have bookmarked. I will use BAS for sure, I just need a better understanding of what I am doing before I go buying all the stuff.

Water only start to finish would be lovely as to me that is good soil. Idk if I will do it where I am at as I would prefer to get a greenhouse up and running and make the footprint good soil before I plant anything it. I would also be using it for vegetables and stuff. But a few cannabis trees would be nice =D

Thank for your help!