Advice for DIY COB?

I can order the MW straight from MW. But the 600W is 163,5 Euro from TME. You can use Vero, if it is what you can get for a decent price. But the Citizen is 30% more efficient. I really do not know man, you can purchase one chip from Alibaba to try the response and then buy the rest. The postage is 30 euro world-wide. Let me ask about 4000K and 5000K they will respond tomorrow. I will send you PM. You can also make acc on Alibaba and ask around too if you want. The 4000K should be enough for veg no problem. With all the intensity those plants will get. And UVB T8 is 6500K if you will add them in.
 
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I just found that chart. Now i consider buying the CLU048 1818 if i can get these way cheaper than the CLU058 1825.

30% more efficient than a vero v7? For example the Citizen at 100w puts out 60%photons and 40%heat the vero v7 has 30 less photons or what do you mean in Numbers? Cant imagine that atm when i see this chart.

Do i get this right? Theoretically, Based on this data i should have ~560PPFD/sqm from a single 62W light@12 inches? So i would place 3 on a sqm i would have more than 1500ppfd/sqm?
 
Goggle : Cheap and cheerful diy cob....
Thanks. I found it before i read your comment :)

As the Veros 29.7 are a littlebit more efficient then the 1818 i will compare total building cost on them when i finally get some Single cob prices for the Citizen. I had to pay 32 for one Vero. But i guess these CLU058 1825 are way to expensive atm so we should Stick to Vero v7 and the CLU048 1818 like he did on that thread
 
Yes 30% better at 100W and 25% at 85% I am referring to a chart in my linked post on page 7. Well not linked because it goes blank, eh? Search: org/t/top-bin-cob-comparison-2.897765/page-7 And there is a chart on page 7 that shows it. :Namaste:
 
Well, you can join and look. No need to post anything.
I am planning to join RIU when i find the time. It seems a lot of the DIY Engineering happens over there. But i do not really know what you were referring to. Maybe you can put it in here so we all can see it when reading this? :)
 
I am planning to join RIU when i find the time. It seems a lot of the DIY Engineering happens over there. But i do not really know what you were referring to. Maybe you can put it in here so we all can see it when reading this? :)

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I make and use the Bridgelux Vero 29 4000k at 10000 lumens. They are a little cheaper than the Cree X lamp series but the drivers are harder to get. And I have yet to find an economical driver that will drive more than one COB. I'm currently building a 24"x24" panel with one Vero 29 surrounded by 12 regular 100 watt (14 watt actual) LED bulbs from Phillips that produce 1100 lumens each. This allows me to switch the bulbs from 5000k for veg to 3400k for flower while keeping the 4000k Vero 29 as it's temperature is useful for flower and veg.
I built the box from aluminum sheet metal and a metal brake. I was going to post a DIY build after X Mas but here's one of the pictures of the build.
The red paint dots are high temp paint where the e26 bases will go.
I was so impressed with my last grow with this light setup that this panel will be given the new 150w equivalent (18 watt) SINGLE COB LED BULB from GE. I cut the domes off the LED bulbs. Included is a shot of the 100w 5000k using the Galatica iPhone light meter app. Sorry, I don't own a professional PAR meter.

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Here's the same set up with a 24 watt CFL 5000k in place of the LED bulb and a picture of the LED with the Dome cut off. Note how the LED puts out literally twice as much light as the CFL at half the watts!
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I make and use the Bridgelux Vero 29 4000k at 10000 lumens. They are a little cheaper than the Cree X lamp series but the drivers are harder to get. And I have yet to find an economical driver that will drive more than one COB. I'm currently building a 24"x24" panel with one Vero 29 surrounded by 12 regular 100 watt (14 watt actual) LED bulbs from Sylvania that produce 1100 lumens each. This allows me to switch the bulbs from 5000k for veg to 3400k for flower while keeping the 4000k Vero 29 as it's temperature is useful for flower and veg.
I built the box from aluminum sheet metal and a metal brake. I was going to post a DIY build after X Mas but here's one of the pictures of the build.
The red paint dots are high temp paint where the e26 bases will go.
I was so impressed with my last grow with this light setup that this panel will be given the new 150w equivalent (18 watt) SINGLE COB LED BULB from GE. I cut the domes off the LED bulbs. Included is a shot of the 100w 5000k using the Galatica iPhone light meter app. Sorry, I don't own a professional PAR meter.

420-magazine-mobile2046388638.jpg
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Cool. I like that. What Type of Vero 29 4K? There are 7 Generations with alot of different 4000K. .

Hopefully this might help you out a bit on your journey.

I just bought a Meanwell ELG-150-C1750B for 50 bucks. 91% efficiency

i use one for 2x Vero 29.7 3500K BXRC35E10K0D7x.

12596 lm
155 lm / W
Forward (Drive): 2100 mA
38,7 V
81,3 W

I will be able to dim the intensity of the COBs between 875-1750ma (equivalent 68-136W) on a external potentiometer i hopefully can Integrate nicely imto the aluminum frame

Any dowmsides on dimming?

Any ideas or charts how many Lm per watt that might be at that lower currents?
 
They're the BXRC-40E10KO-L-23
36.8 fV
9768 lumen
2.1-4.2 A
Using the meanwell LPC 150 2450.

I have the 13000 lumen bridgelux in the other light rig. They were too bright and kept burning the plant causing massive leaf defence curling. (Reason why dimming is a great option)
Figured I'd go down to the 10000 lumen mark in conjunction with the LED bulbs as the 13k lumen was just insane at 8 inches from the canopy.
The major thing I noticed was that I get about 50% less foliage from the LED as opposed to the old HPS HIDs I was using. Side by side I got 312 g of dried flower on the HID compared to 416g of dried flower under the LED array. HPS used 400w LED uses 186w.
So more bud, better taste, denser flowers and half the electricity consumption is what you can expect with LED. All around win.


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Now its up to us which chart we think is the right one. i dont get why they picked the 6500K. is there a difference in PPF and PPFD?

PPF is what you get from light, on paper. PPFD is what you measure with a meter on a ground.
 
Ah, thats good to know. So i guess it would be better to Stick with the chart with the PPFD, right?

The people who made the chart are quite knowledgeable and I do trust that information. I like it, they even have pictures of PAR (photosynthesis active radiation, measured in PPFD) spread of the COBs.
 
Can you pm me some links to more of this stuff? I guess this diy game is all the same like building an high end pc. After you installed the first couple of games and everything is working properly there is the next bigger and better rig, even if you buy the best stuff every year. :) going for the bigger CLU058 1825 for 51 bucks each at my location might not be as good as a couple of CLU048 1818 for 19. Guessing

Makes it alot harder to decide what i spend the 2,5k for...
 
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