Answers to these nutrient and additive questions cannot be found online

First medicine season ever one grew pineapple chunk, a critical hog and also a big bang auto of 5 feet tall in first attempt using only bunnings thrive nutrients for veg and very late some AN 2part bloom in flower.
One used the powder nutes from a hard ware store for fruits and veg on dodgy genetic freebies from attitude and guess what?
Clean, potent, clear flavors, intense effects. Total success with poor asf base nutes, a bottle of late bloom AN and a week flush (twice, barely heavy runs)

One can grow better meds than anything available on streets using a careful 1/8th dose of Thrive Veg/Flower for months?

So one says to himself ohk.. AN really works as it should at a basic level because through the over waterings, slight tip burns, summer heat and all the finish was incredibly top shelf..

So one buys something for the roots (sensizyme) and something for the bloom (biodiesel) and something for thicker channels (rhinoskin) and when taste and smell from last couldnt get any better honestly no kidding, bud candy then b52.

All these sitting with one now and one asks how they should be applied, why buy and use all these if the first run was fire?

Trying to achieve optimal health throughout the entire cycle, and to learn how as we are doing right now.

Totally aware only water is needed to create golden stuff,

One has deliberately submerged the self in shiny label additives thinking these are only helpful, all optional minor benefits to plant areas in small doses?

One simply need order of application weeks 1-10 of these new additives, recommended dose only as one dials oneself in. Which doesnt one need during weeks 1-10 was perhaps the better question from the start.

Apologies for machine gun questioning,
ADHD fingers.

What of week 4 regimes effect on success? No sequence or timing errors?
Swell, seem to be fluking success and thats great because according to the mood here ones already great stuff first go around cant be improved at all with all these improving products, enzymes, vitamins, all of it useless ontop of base nutes and only detrimental?
One can see no bad signs thus far..

If nobody cheers one on and suggests application strategies then perhaps blind luck with 1ml per bucket doses will prevail.

Great opinions here, learning much.
 
Gentlemen with much respect please do spare the KISS repetitions, it burns the thread as one is veery aware one has over stepped understanding but when one already HAS kept it simple and had such success, how the FUQ can these helpful macro,micro, substrate and translocation helping supps be of no greater future for white widow auto?

Are you people high or has AN sold one so much watered down cheap element chelates that one has became mad cos stupid?

Consider ones base soil is professional seedling mix, it lacks proper levels of anything after 4 weeks and cant sustain..

Oh look one bought these sustainers (listed additives), perhaps these can be applied to improve potential result, which would also be fine without these in experience.

If one explains it like that ^,
Will it stop the consensus from holding the assumption one Needs the additives, has plant health problems or doesnt know how to complete a full cyc.

All is fine, how can one use the additives to make fine more like great or even rather swell?

What amounts roughly in terms of pie guessing,
Which weeks?

Its pretty simple what one is asking, experts align?
 
There is no blind luck but I bieleve you are getting sort of kinda the idea.

It is a living organism like you. If you eat rocks and drink lighter fluid you wont last long. If you exercise and eat well you may get to the ripe age of 90 or beyond.

Cannabis is the same. Treat it well and it flourishes. You can tell by looking at it and there is nothing more to it. You will learn. Post pics here we will fix anything.

Follow the directions on the bottle for how and do about half the recommended dose then they say. Don't water till the plant leaves sag from lack of water. You will have great results.

If you do a good soil you need no fertilizer at all in veg period nothing more to it.

So...do a good soil, water once a week, keep it humid and warm, at bloom you may want to start lightly adding bloom fertilizers only.
 
Oh and one heard Nirvana was of great use?
In soil does this also work as well?
Please elaborate if you have the energy and time, if not please return in future to criticise me kind sir.
 
Ok...here is what I would ask you to do. Please explain what type or method of growing you would like to do and choose from below...

Hydro, Soilless, Soil, Organic Soil.

I believe you are trying soil. That is the beginner spot and a good place. I try to steer people immediately to Organic Soil but you do you. All have valid uses.

If you are going Soil...there are hundreds of journals on here explaining how to follow the manufacturer's recommended doses. It is very simple. It is the easiest way to grow but the least satisfying and lowest quality. But great for starting out.


Good luck. Start a journal and I will sub and walk you through your entire grow. I have done it many times in here. Some people I need 2 or 3 grows to straighten them out. But this topic is not for the FAQ section.
 
Nirvana...

If you do research into flowering plants you will find that there are 2 things that are highly recommended as proven bloom boosting enhancers that all gardeners use...who are making flowering vegetables or anything really, even ornamental. Both are natural things that you can buy in dry bulk bags. You throw them in a compost tea and make it yourself and almost double you flower thickness.

It's all in my journal. There is an entire section on here about compost tea you must find and read.

Start a journal.
 
Appreciate the support and clarifications,

Will do idiot thank you, link will be provided soon.

One last question before this thread ends,

Letting roots go very dry in 3gal fabric pots, for mwa

2.1L in,

Wet from fresh watering day 1,
Day 2, drying and dried surface
Day 3, damp 3inch down,
Day 4, cold, lightest sense of damp
Day 5 dry for sure, damp in middle at root ball slighly but to be sure on day 5 we watered again rinse repeat.

If one let it go day 5 or 6 without watering, wont root tips dry out and die, all the fine root hairs? This would negate all growth caused by the deliberate leaf drooping dryness yes?

So wheres the sweet spot, right before droop or let em droop?
The difference is a day 5 vs a day 6 or 7 dry

Will learn the subtle art of this "Tea" you speak of, then pass it on.
 
Root tips do not die in dry soil.

There is a lot of reading you need to do on propper watering. Look above in this section I think is a sticky.

Watering often makes it easy on the plant to get water so the roots don't grow. Letting it dry out makes the plant go search for more. It grows more roots faster this way.

You switch to bloom when the root system is ready to support the flowers you want. Veg really is more about the roots than the above ground stuff. Once you have a good rootball you can bloom.

Over watering causes many if not almost all new grower problems other than over feeding.

When the leaves start to sag you can water again. In the very beginning I use big pots and that is easily 2 weeks.

Don't water until they ask by sagging.
 
Call advanced nutrients. They will explain everything pertaining to their products.

More interested in local in depth hands on experience from repetitive side by sides done by growers than the money hungry less scientific overdoses or underdoses provided by the company.

For example,

AN recommends using bud candy at 2ml/l the entire grow cycle?

Well.. a seemingly well experienced person here explained it further than they did, saying that sugars early will stunt the plants capabilities or cause it to become additive reliant too early on, or is of little to no use but not harmful?

This person recommens only the last 2 weeks when leaf death occurs where the plant needs external sources which bud candy can provide.

See the difference with info?

We require the same info as Bud candy from that man with the rhinoskin/sensizyme/b-52,

When, why and also approximate dosage scaling..

AN would probably recommend whatever generates money within reasonable bounds, trying to avoid these blurred lines.

Hoping some more experienced people have better and more accurate opinions than ANs staple recommendations.
 
No they say use it all the time because they also say to use a living organic medium because they want you to buy their expensive bacteria.

It is all a circular scam. You need this to help this to help this.

You add sugars early to help the bacteria not the plant...bacteria which they charge an arm and a leg for. If you follow all of their advice it says to add other stuff too. You are not connecting the dots. These things do much more than one thing. You do not get a single answer. Sugars are what the plant lives on and does everything on. But it won't use any until it can't make it's own. It prefers it's own.

But to maximize the other stuff you are supposed to put in there you add that. Just like sesizyme... the plant does not absorb that at all. You don't have to add it at all and you can get great performance. However if you add enzymes then sme cool thing can happen if you have some cool things in there.

It all is because it reacts with something else.

Sugar is the result of photosynthesis. The absolute best thing to see is leaf growth as that means it is creating sugar and storage sites for nutes. Sugars early on are not for the plant they are for other things in the environment. There is a lot more going on.

If you do not add the bacteria it doesn't help much at all to add sugars until the wilting starts.

The thing is you have so much miss information and are asking the wrong questions so it is hard to get you to think about horticulture and how plants work.

I tried. Best of luck! The answers you seek are all written down in my journal you just have to stop being lazy and go read it.

Ciao.
 
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