Burning RSO: What causes the sludge that can appear and how to stop it

Hi everyone!

I make RSO from hemp and use 10 pounds of bud with 10 and half gallons of 195 proof ethanol. I reclaim using a 10gal copper still, using a rice cooker to quickly cook of the rest of the wash.(I reclaim 8 1/2 gallons back and am left with a half gallon of thick wash. I want to try getting 9gal back but not sure at what point it will thicken too much and that would be a nightmare to clean.) I purge and decarb using an induction hot plate in an oil bath.

My question is this: Why does sludge form? For instance, I left a batch too long in the rice cooker one time and it burnt. Why does this happen? IF the rice cooker can't exceed the 180F mark that ethanol burns at and when it switched to it's warm setting, which is lower than what is needed for decarb, why did it produce the burnt sludge?

Also, my last batch I babysat the rice cooker and that was fine. When I put it in the oil bath, which I decarb at 245-250F, it still had some sludge. Do I just need to be stirring it or get an automatic stirrer? Is it chlorophyl that is burning first and settling at the bottom? Is the bottom of my glass container that holds the RSO during decarb have the most surface area and if left still too long burns it? Would love for someone to get real nerdy here. Thank you all so much!
The sludge is from plant matter being in your your oil. I had this happen last year when I didn't filler it enough before evaporating the alcohol off
 
"My question is this: Why does sludge form? For instance, I left a batch too long in the rice cooker one time and it burnt. Why does this happen? IF the rice cooker can't exceed the 180F mark that ethanol burns at and when it switched to it's warm setting, which is lower than what is needed for decarb, why did it produce the burnt sludge?"

First, realize RSO is an unrefined crude oil. Alcohol extraction is known as a non-specific extraction - it takes any and all compounds it will dissolve. This means you get the non-polar lipids, semi-polar phospholipids and some polar compounds. You're cooking this all together and it will be a sludge. Typical RSO comes in around 40% Total Cannabinoids which means 60% of your oil is trash. Thats the reality. You'll have to do some refinements to dump the trash to make better oil. Thats a big part of the sludge you're seeing, and it's easy to burn at higher temps.

As far as the rice cooker temp, all these devices are engineered to pump X amount of BTUs into the cooking vessel. That much heat will be funneled into your oil or wasted on outter edges of the pan. If you have a couple ounces of oil it it, then that little amount of oil will absorb most of that heat. Oil has a huge capacity to hold heat. So little oil will get extremely hot. Lots of oil will be less hot.

I personally use an electric skillet for a double boiler heat source. Skillets have a thermostatic power cord that has a dial on it to dial in the amount of heat. But this # is relative to what I am heating. I can easily overheat a couple grams of oil, but an ounce (28.5 grams) will heat up less proportionately. My 12 inch skillet has a 1000watt power cord, so to reduce and decarb the oil, I set the dial at 200f and use a digital thermometer and see decarbing happen at 250f. Eventually as the C02 stops boiling out, the heat starts spiking and can hit 300f. Venting gasses take away heat, so when the venting stops, all those BTU end up in your oil which leads to spiking temps.

Unfortunately, rice cookers don't give you much control over the power and the auto-shutoffs are a nuiscance. Check out thrift shops, Goodwills, garage sales, estate sales. You can find skillets really cheap. I have 4 all under $10us. One cost me $0.75us at a church yard sale. The key is the thermostatic power cord. Look for those devices. Griddles, skilletes, fondue makers all use this tech.

Check out the grapic attached. This are the phases of boiling that happens when you boil out the alcohol, any water, then decarb. Alcohol starts in the 170s, goes up to 212f. Water boils out at 180 up to 225f. The remaining oils decarbs throughout, very slowly at low temps, but rapidly at 250f. This is technically the most accurate way to decarb because you're monitoring the decarbing in action - the generation of C02 bubbles. Once the bubble generation diminishes, you've reach an optimal decarbed state. As Carla Kay says, watch the bubbles! That's your indicator to know when to quit.

Chrt-Skillet with Thermostatic Power Cord 01.jpg


Chrt-Reduction and Decarbing Phases 04 Large.jpg
 
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