i have a DIY DWC SETUP, no resivior I JUST FILL THE 5 GAL buckets around 4gal of water and add the nutrients and then when the water gets low to about the 1 gallon mark, i will empty the buckets wash them out and then refilled with fresh water, etc... so i just switched to 12-12 about a week ago and the plants have been going threw hell. the leaves are turning brown, it starts with all the tips of the leaves. fan leaves and the shouts at the top of every branch. even the smallest leaves that just start to show have black tips on the end of the leaves, but as the leaves get bigger you can see the color isn't black its brown, then it run down the sides of every leave almost like outlining the leaves and then it curls the leaves inwards and makes brown spots everywhere.. at first i thought they were burning because the reflector was running 1000w and it was only about 16inches away from the top of the plants. and only 3 plants. i thought that the bulb was defected or the ballast cuz it didn't seem warm at all when i used the palm method. so i raised the reflector to 20inches, thats from the tallest branch, the lowest are like 25inches away. After seeing the short plant experiencing the same thing i realized it wasn't the lights, so my next guess was the ppm was too high, so i changed the water and added the nutrients in and kept the ppm around 1400-1500. the first time the ppm were over 2000, don't know exact number cuz the meter read ---- so after i change the water and lower the ppm the problem continues, it also slowed the stretch on the plants. the plants are still getting black tips on all the shouts and leaves, as well as leaves getting crispy and curing up and having black spots all over it (and by spots i don't mean all even dots all over the leaves, all different shape and sizes). so then i decided to change the water again and just use straight water. this would be the first flush. first time going with hydro so im assuming running straight water with no nutes for a week is a flush. So i changed the water to straight water and added super thrive and lowered the lights to 600w but kept same distance, its been about almost 2 days and the plants havn't got worse, but the plants didn't get healthy, the black tips stayed like that, etc. So now i'm running out of theries. i noticed that during the veg stage, after 3 or 4 days normally the water in the bucket would decrease to half the amount of water, this was during the plants aggressive growth. BUT now the water is still the same level even 5-6 days later. The plants arnt taking the water, so i'm thinking its because the water is too warm. This is the only thing i can think of because during veg, i used t5s and when i switched to flower i turned to a 1000w so Im thinking it warmed the water up, i have a ac its a sealed room and the temp stays around 77-84F. I ran my hand threw the water and it was a little warm, you couldn't even tell if you weren't looking for it, so my question is does the temp of the water make a huge difference? is warm water capable of doing something so severe to the plants? or is it a different problem? the water isn't really a lot warmer, but i just don't know what else it could be. what should the temp be for water?? does anyone have any idea what it is?
DWC Hydro Setup, is the water too hot? Help
- Thread starter vangs
- Start date
newcs
420 Member
Dude, way too many nutes. You should be at like 400-600pmm. Here is a nice chart I found on another site. I like to run 400-700 in veg and 700-900 in bloom unless I feel the plants are wanting more.
Seedlings, Early Sprouts.........100 ppm to 250 ppm--------0.2 ec - 0.5 ec
Early Vegging..........................300 ppm to 400 ppm--------0.6 ec - 0.8 ec
Full Vegetation........................450 ppm to 700 ppm--------0.9 ec - 1.4 ec
Early Blooming.........................750 ppm to 950 ppm--------1.5 ec - 1.9 ec
Full Mature Blooms..................1000 ppm to 1600 ppm------2.0 ec - 3.2 ec
Also what is your pH?
Yes, the temperature is a major factor.
ps, when you format your post the way you did it really makes it hard to read. IMO
Seedlings, Early Sprouts.........100 ppm to 250 ppm--------0.2 ec - 0.5 ec
Early Vegging..........................300 ppm to 400 ppm--------0.6 ec - 0.8 ec
Full Vegetation........................450 ppm to 700 ppm--------0.9 ec - 1.4 ec
Early Blooming.........................750 ppm to 950 ppm--------1.5 ec - 1.9 ec
Full Mature Blooms..................1000 ppm to 1600 ppm------2.0 ec - 3.2 ec
Also what is your pH?
Yes, the temperature is a major factor.
ps, when you format your post the way you did it really makes it hard to read. IMO
yes, paragraphs, coma's and no run on sentences plz. Makes a huge difference.
Now, this is VERY IMPORTANT: What conversion factor is your TDS meter?
Folks need to learn this REALLY BAD!
There are two basic conversion factors used in tds meters. One is .700 while the other is .500.
If you're meter is 1500 on a .5 meter, that's 3.0 e.c and pretty high. But if it's 1500 on a .700 meter it's 2.14 e.c. and generally in a nice area in full on flowering period.
Using xxxx ppm without knowing the conversion factor is a big no-no imho. You can be referencing a number I relate to on a .500 meter when yours is a .700 meter. Thus you could be getting bad advice.
I always state in my journals since learning this: PPM: 1200 (.500 conv) or 2.4 e.c.
Next item: I ran my hand through the water and it seemed a little warm?
1. Your body temp is what? It feels warm?
2. MANY tds or PH meters have temp also. Use it or get it! Goal in dwc should be 68f water temp. None of this running my hand through the water stuff man.
Best wishes.
