Fanleaf's Huge 42 COB Array Build Plus Other Builds

[ClobberWatts]

10 gals on the outside of his 5 gal hippie tea. No problem lol.

 

[TorturedSoul]

My fence looks familiar? Unless you been to humboldt when the bars close down with slayer playing at 4am. Sorry. Nope. Seriously, I don't mind giving you a couple of them. It doesn't matter to me. You'd have to come pick them up.

Shit. You can have all of them. Fuck it.

Brother, if I'd ever been to Humboldt County, they'd end up burying me there. Maybe soon after I arrived, lol (I am, after all, a bit of an arse ), maybe after a long life.

I knew it was a long shot. Actually, I figured I had about as much chance of winning the lottery without ever buying a ticket. I was just... kind of... being a smart-@ss. Although I did take a walk over to the next neighborhood, walk up to a certain fence, turn around to gaze at a certain roofline that would have been barely visible from the same angle that one of your photos were taken at... And quietly mutter, "Aw, sh!t."

I do wish to thank you for the offer, but that'd be a 2,000+ mile walk. I'd have to earn enough to buy a new pair of shoes before I started the walk home. Surely you can find someone locally who... Ohwaitaminute, lol, Humboldt. I guess people don't literally get all choked up THERE when you offer them a clone/etc. like they do here. Well, maybe you'll have some guests from out of town or something. Missouri, maybe. Or South Carolina. Err... China?

I want to know whether me torturing is good or not. The left is torture. and the right is first time grower scared to chop a leaf.

I can't tell whether the one on the right is larger or if it just looks that way due to a combination of the plants in the background and my p!ss-poor eyesight. I'm not a big fan of cutting the top off of a cannabis plant to promote branching; I'd rather just tie that top down so that it is no longer the highest part and allow the plant to redistribute the auxins which control such behavior, and allow it to branch without the removal of mass - so not wishing to cut a leaf isn't a show-stopper for me. As for torture... Have you noticed my user name, lol?

I can say that the one on the left appears to have a healthy mainstem. I like large-diameter mainstems. A tree isn't a tree without a nice trunk .

I guess, when it's all said and done, if your tortured plant hasn't gone shim and blown pollen all over itself and its neighbors, then it must not have been all that bothered by your actions. I've been... allowing mine to maintain their height by growing into a powerful LED panel and going crunchy :rolleyes3 . So I certainly wouldn't want to throw stones...

HOAs, HA! You couldn't pay me enough to move into a home that fell under the jurisdiction of such a thing. This isn't quite New Hampshire, lol (the Live Free or Die state), but, well... If we had such a slogan, it'd probably be "Live Free or Shoot the MoFo That Inhibits Your Freedom." It turns out that my great grandmother didn't go to jail over her stills, lol - she went to jail for literally having the two revenue agents tarred and feathered. I know you've got cities in your state where a person might walk into the wrong neighborhood and get wheeled out in a bag - we have woods. And hog farms. They say that a hog will even eat the bones, lol. Gang activity? Gangs don't bother hillbillies. A gang member might whip out his piece and empty his clip at a row of bottles, maybe hit two or three. My granddad fed 13 children with a .22 single-shot rifle. They might not have had shoes (the girls usually had a pair between them), but there was plenty of squirrel, rabbit, groundhog (to this day Mom starts looking nauseous when I mention groundhogs, because she used to have to help her dad get 'em), etc. Deer, too - and from a single .22, that takes some skill.

Err... Forgot what I was... Hmm. Oh, yes, HOAs. Surprisingly, there are a few of them around here. To be honest with you, I cannot come up with any sympathy for the people who have bad experiences with HOAs. It's like if someone volunteered to go to prison, then turned around and complained about the bad food, the beatings, and the anally-invasive showers. My response would be, "You chose to live there." I got friends living in tents. I'll save my sympathy for them. They're probably happier, anyway.

I wonder how long it'd take me to hitchhike across the country? Nah....

 

[gotrice007]

Hello everyone.
Getting very close to the start of my next project. Building a 42 cob cxb3590 superpanel. Going in a Mars Hydro 8X8 tent and lighting 6X8' of the tent. Yup, just about 1 cob per square foot of lighting area.
This will be pushed by 6 Meanwell HLG-320H-C1400B drivers.
The light will consist of 12 CXB 3590's in 5000k and 30 CXB3590's in 3000k.

All dimmable from 0 watts to 1950 watts from the wall and the 5k and 3k being independently dimmable so in veg I can run higher blue and in flower I can run higher red and anywhere in between. This big light when finished will, at medium drive be capable of 60%+ efficient.

Waiting on my cob chips and more heatsinks to come in and Ill start building the aluminum frame. Im not sure on my frame design yet but it will either be 2 piece or 4 piece.

Each row of COBs will be dimmable and each row will have its own wattage meter built into the system.

Lets have fun.

Sent from my android from outer space!

Hello Fanleafs and all,

First of all thanks for putting up this great DIY Light. It's my first time stumbling on to DIY. I am amaze with your work and you got me totally hook onto having one DIY Light. Yet, I am a newbies in COB and Led overall. Please advice me on equipment's selection.

My Goal:

-Build a Light ONLY for Flowering
-Produce the best GPW
-As little equipment parts as possible yet max yield for my space
-Space is 4X4
-Light will not be use for Veg

I would like to use your 42 lights set up with 14" apart from each lights and 6" away from wall. However, because of my 4X4 space smaller than your Tent, I would need less than 42 lights and more of a square build.

Please advice me on the equipment's list and built, as I do not understand COB 3000, 4000, 5000....therefore I cannot select the right light to max my Flower Yielding. I also would like top quality equipment to ensure it last.

Thanks Fanleaf's and all the experience guys and gals who are willing to give their's advice input.

Rice

 

[Buckshot317]

You'll probably need a mix something like fan's. 3000k mostly with few 5000k. Or go all 3000k crees. The lower the kelvin the richer the reds. Higher has more blues(veg)

 

[gotrice007]

You'll probably need a mix something like fan's. 3000k mostly with few 5000k. Or go all 3000k crees. The lower the kelvin the richer the reds. Higher has more blues(veg)

So, I should do
16 cree COB 3000k Cri 90 for flowers.
16 cree cob 5000k cri 90 for Veg

Would that work best or do i need to mix them?

 

[Buckshot317]

That's the tricky part, I don't have too much experience with the different cri. Just use few 90 cri's and rest 80's. Fanleaf know quite abit about the cree's, he does great with them. I haven't seen him on here in a while. You might try to pm him. The 2700k's are great too, if just use a few.

For a great light, I would copy his big panel, but just on smaller scale. He's been killing it with them. But all 3k in 80 cri and just few of the 90 cri would flower great.

 

[gotrice007]

That's the tricky part, I don't have too much experience with the different cri. Just use few 90 cri's and rest 80's. Fanleaf know quite abit about the cree's, he does great with them. I haven't seen him on here in a while. You might try to pm him. The 2700k's are great too, if just use a few.

For a great light, I would copy his big panel, but just on smaller scale. He's been killing it with them. But all 3k in 80 cri and just few of the 90 cri would flower great.

Hey Buck,

Thanks for the advice on the Cree. I've read through some of the old pages from the thread. Seeing that you're also doing the Vero and sum cree yourself. How is that doing for you? What kind of GPW and how much yield can you get out of your 4x4 space?

How would you setup for the 4x4 space with this requirement with your experience.

My Goal:

-Build a Light ONLY for Flowering
-As little equipment parts as possible yet max yield for my space
-Space is 4X4
-Light will not be use for Veg
-I do not worry about heat as my area is cold in the winter with only 3 summer months
-I am not worry about spend high electricity watts use either

-My main concern is yield per square feet, with plants limit cuz my license is good for 6 plants.

How would you build this if you were to build for yourself?

Thanks Buck,

Rice

P.S. There is a new led on Vero29 SE Poke-in

 

[TorturedSoul]

That's the tricky part

When we use multiple HIDs, we sometimes use a mix of ~2,700K HPS and 6,500K MH at a 3:1 ratio for flowering (and reverse the ratio in vegetative). Different critters, I know - but the same ratio might make a good starting point. This assumes that your lighting setup mixes the various sources of illumination well, of course.

 

[Graytail]

How's your headroom, Rice? If you have high ceilings, you could run some Veros at 100 watts each ... they're pretty efficient at that current.

But if you're not concerned about heat or power bill, the 1000 watt DEs are the best choice.

I'm piping up because I have the same space and I want lighting for only bloom, too. For the past year, I've been keeping up on COB builds and recently discovered the new Samsung LED boards based on the LM561C diodes. Check out quantum boards - they're comparable to the cost of Cree 3590s and they run 180+ Lumens/watt at 75 watts each - very efficient, and perfect for horticultural lighting. I think they're the future, leapfrogging over the hot pinpoint COB configuration.

I plan to run 12 of them in my 4x4 at a little over 50 watts each, for 1200 ppfd. No holders, no paste, no reflectors, $11 heatsinks ... love it!

 

[gotrice007]

How's your heaedroom, Rice? If you have high ceilings, you could run some Veros at 100 watts each ... they're pretty efficient at that current.

But if you're not concerned about heat or power bill, the 1000 watt DEs are the best choice.

I'm piping up because I have the same space and I want lighting for only bloom, too. For the past year, I've been keeping up on COB builds and recently discovered the new Samsung LED boards based on the LM561C diodes. Check out quantum boards - they're comparable to the cost of Cree 3590s and they run 180+ Lumens/watt at 75 watts each - very efficient, and perfect for horticultural lighting. I think they're the future, leapfrogging over the hot pinpoint COB configuration.

I plan to run 12 of them in my 4x4 at a little over 50 watts each, for 1200 ppfd. No holders, no paste, no reflectors, $11 heatsinks ... love it!

My room is 10 x 10 with 8 high ceiling. Just a typical family bedroom. I split the room into for veg and flower trying to grow big 2 plants a light cuz i only have 6 plants limit. Two in Veg and 4 in flower perpectual every 5 weeks i harvest 2 plants.

Do you have information where i can look into the led board and how effective they are in flowering.

Thanks gray

 

[Graytail]

My room is 10 x 10 with 8 high ceiling. Just a typical family bedroom. I split the room into for veg and flower trying to grow big 2 plants a light cuz i only have 6 plants limit. Two in Veg and 4 in flower perpectual every 5 weeks i harvest 2 plants.

Do you have information where i can look into the led board and how effective they are in flowering.

Thanks gray

Search the interwebs for "quantun board led" and you'll get all the info. There are a number of people posting on forums who have used them.

 

[Buckshot317]

I don't think I'll buy anymore cobs either. I just talked to gromau5 on the phone, I told him my room size, 5x6, he calculated around 550 ppfd for 30sq ft. That's pretty high numbers for 6 little boards for big space. The boards are most efficient lights out at the moment. They blow the Cree and veros out of the water

 

[TorturedSoul]

Let me preface this with: My knowledge level in regards to this stuff is still quite low.

I don't think I'll buy anymore cobs either. I just talked to gromau5 on the phone, I told him my room size, 5x6, he calculated around 550 ppfd for 30sq ft.

Is that in the standard(?) µmol/m²/s-1 units? If so... Is that kind of low? Not in terms of... grams per unit of electricity used, but in terms of grams per unit of space that is being lit? Several years ago, someone used the "YoR" website data (175 grow reports):

That "Chandra" chart has always been a bit suspect. All in all it's pretty much like any light response curve, but it seems a bit too steep. People who tried different light intensities (including myself) did not see the exponential gains in yield/Watt which you would expect from that chart when lowering the light levels. In reality the relation between light intensity seemed much more linear between 400umol/s/m2 and 1000umol/s/m2.

A couple of years ago on the YOR (Yield-O-Rama) site they were looking into which factors attributed most to increased yields. For this they collected a lot of yield information from many growers. In total something like 175 grow reports were submitted.

I plotted those results in a chart showing the yield in g/m2 on the vertical axis and estimated light intensity in umol/s/m2 on the horizontal axis. The red line is a smoothed average. Blue points are without CO2 and green with CO2.

[CHART]

This is based on grow reports with different genetics, different lights, different temperatures, different medium (hydro/soil), different stock (cuttings vs seeds) etc etc etc. Yet on average it looks pretty much like the chart we have all been using and it shows that adding more light well over 1000umol/s/m2 still increases yield. Only above 1500 umol/s/m2 does it really seem to taper off, but there is not enough data there to say anything definitive.

Still, the biggest difference compared to the "Chandra" chart, is that it indeed shows a much more linear slope between 400 and 1000 umol/s/m2 range. Based on the average line you could expect an average yield of 0.56g/umol/s/m2 @ 400umol/s/m2 and 0.48g/g/umol/s/m2 @ 800umol/s/m2. That would make it around 15% less efficient to run with 800PPFD instead of 400PPFD, but you would also get 70% more yield from the same space. Most likely more compact and harder buds too under the higher light intensity. So less grows needed for a certain amount, more yield from the same area and better (higher priced) product overall. That's why people tend to average around the 600 to 800umol range instead of 400.

It also demonstrates another major mistake in FUD's reasoning that the "optimal" value would be the saturation point. This chart indicates the average saturation point for cannabis is around 1500umol/s/m2. Yet virtually no one is growing at this "optimal" value. Or the other way around, even if the saturation point was around 400umol, it would be much more efficient to grow at 200umol/s/m2.

The [CHART] above is an image that I could not grab, because I am not a member of that forum. The mention of "Chandra" is in reference to a study titled "Photosynthetic response of Cannabis sativa L. to variations in photosynthetic photon flux densities, temperature and CO2 conditions." It appears to be a less than optimal resource, but about the only published scientific paper on the subject I know of.

And the same link that I read/copied the above from had this:

've seen mention of up to 65 mol/d and according to purdue university studies on different plant species, most other light loving plants like sunflowers and tomatoes are recommended for a DLI between 22 and 30mol/day.



So for cannabis, bottom threshold for optimal growth and photosynthesis is a DLI of DLI of 22 would be:
24/0 schedule: 254.6 micromoles/m2/s-1
18/6 schedule: 339.5 micromoles/m2/s-1
12/12 schedule: 509.25 micromoles/m2/s-1


For Cannabis, the Top threshold for optimal growth and photosynthesis is a DLI of 65 moles per day.
***extremely important notice, only go up to these amounts if you are using supplemental CO2, do not go this high if you are not using supplemental CO2 as you will actually slow down photosynthesis and waste energy.

24/0 schedule: 752.31 micromoles/m2/s-1
18/6 schedule: 1003.08 micromoles/m2/s-1
12/12 schedule: 1504.6 micromoles/m2/s-1


The generally accepted guidelines for artificial light PPFD in flowering are this:
in a 12/12

PPFD of at least 510 micromoles/m2/s-1 for the low end of optimal intensity
PPFD of at least 800-1100 micromoles/m2/s-1 for perfect optimal lighting without additional CO2.
PPFD of at least 800-1500 micromoles/m2/s-1 for perfect optimal lighting WITH additional CO2.

Please bear in mind the fact that I only understand the parts with simple monosyllabic words at this point, lol, so IDK how valid the above information is. Also note that my LED-powered cannabis growing experience is quite limited, with only one product. And, over a 3'x3' space... According to the charts I have on the product, I'm looking at 690 µmol/m²/s-1 in the middle, but at the 2' (from center) corners, I'm only getting between 254 and 269 µmol/m²/s-1... And at the four corners of the 3'x3' space, it's only 88 to 104 µmol/m²/s-1. That appears in a room sized 5'x5', so I assume that my actual distribution across a 3'x3' room would be higher, but... IDK, lol? I've got a set of six 90° lenses (for the panel's six COBs) that I can install. That brings the (listed) center number up from 690 to 1065 µmol/m²/s-1, but causes the drop-off towards the outer edges of the space to be even more significant. (And I'm already in perpetual panic mode due to lack of height in this particular space :rolleyes3 .)

 

[Buckshot317]

500 is a little low for flowering, but that's great for veg. And that's over twice the size of a 4x4 or about same as 4x8. When done I'll be able to go up to and over 1500 ppfd. But have to run co2 anything over 1200, 1500 max.

Yea, that's a good chart to go by. If your around 800-1000, kind of sweet spot without co2

 

[Graytail]

I'm aiming for 1200 umols at the top of the canopy, which should still be 500+ at the bottom. In my mind, that's ideal.

 

[TorturedSoul]

I'm aiming for 1200 umols at the top of the canopy, which should still be 500+ at the bottom.

I couldn't begin to speculate what percentage of artificial light gets to the bottom of even the average canopy of cannabis. I do know that some strains seem to produce male flowers on portions that aren't receiving enough light during flower (e.g., if undergrowth is not curtailed). So this would obviously be useful information. One of these days I ought to start saving up for a good light meter. They're useful in several ways.

In my mind, that's ideal.

I'd definitely be willing to throw a sativa into your garden, lol.

 

[ClobberWatts]

I'm still a little fuzzy on cri, but basically what it boils down too is.. the higher the cri, the closer it is to the spectrum you want, but there is a catch. If my internet wasn't crapping out and I have about more than 10 minutes a day I would get into it more. Example you have an 3000k 90 cri. It will go way further into reds like in the 730nm range. the problem is that you lose photons. So you have an 80 cri that throws out more photons. And photons are more important than finding the perfect light spectrum. Basically, if the light is throwing out more photons, your going to get more of the spectrum you are trying to obtain anyways. I won't have true internet till Monday to explain it better. With Cree's, not only do you have to think about Cri, but also need to think about which Bin they came from. There is no magic bulb. This is pretty much how Mary likes it though. Here is the effacacy spectrum of mary jane

This is a good read for everyone also. I'll try and get back to this as soon as I can.

 

[Graytail]

Nice graph!

CRI is for people, not plants. For our purposes 80 CRI is usually best, for exactly the reason you gave. We like the white diodes because they're extremely efficient, not because they have a perfect spectrum. We don't want to tilt the spectrum by weakening the output - that makes no sense at all, especially when the entire point of using white LEDs is their efficiency.

This particular spectrum is actually quite good though - far better than HPS. Fluorescents, blurples and some CMH bulbs are better, but at the expense of much lower efficiency. Metal Halides are more efficient but have a lousy spectrum. You get the best spectrum with banks of horicultural fluorescents, but it'll cost far more to run them and you'll have a ton of heat to dump. I've seen a lot of growers get a blend of color temps in their COBs, a couple 4000K and maybe a 2700K or two, but in my opinion that's minutia. Photons is photons and the more the better ... usually. There are two advantages to white LEDs whether on COBs or boards:

You can spread them across the sky.

They use less power.

In my case, I want them because you can spread them across the sky. I've never liked the configuration where you have a big hot bulb in the middle with your plants huddled around it. If you can light a ring around the perimeter instead, all the plants will get a similar amount of light, and there are far more sources which drastically reduces shadowing. If I could put a ring of 50 watt HPS bulbs around the edges, that'd work for me too, except for the ridiculous amount of heat they'd throw off.

I was making do with cheap blurples in each corner to supplement a big blurple in the middle, but I was running 1000 watts in a 4x4. With boards I'll be able to get the same PAR and an even better spread, with only 2/3 of the power draw and therefore heat. Until very recently, they've been very expensive but you can put together a great setup for less than $1.50 a watt at 180+ lumens per watt (that's almost 50% better than a 1000DE hps - same PAR).

 

[Buckshot317]

Cannabis will adapt to different light.

If using 90 cri, just a couple would be more than enough.

These new samsungs are great, there is a newer one coming out soon that is supposed to be even better. You can add some uva and reds pretty cheap, like shiggs did.

 

[TorturedSoul]

We like the white diodes because they're extremely efficient, not because they have a perfect spectrum. We don't want to tilt the spectrum by weakening the output - that makes no sense at all, especially when the entire point of using white LEDs is their efficiency.

That's what I like about the panel here. It has six COBs - the ax, if you will - and each are surrounded by a ring of ten individual LEDs (blue, red, IR(???)) - the scalpel, lol? - which, presumably, serve to tailor the spectrum. There's even an UV tube running down the middle. I cannot speak as to how effective it all is together, because I have yet to flower under it. But it sure caused my plants to overgrow their room pretty quick, and it only consumes ~350 watts.

BtW, anyone who still believes that "LEDs are cooler than HIDs" is welcome to stop by and sweat. Bring an air conditioner, lol (please?).

I've seen a lot of growers get a blend of color temps in their COBs, a couple 4000K and maybe a 2700K or two, but in my opinion that's minutia. Photons is photons and the more the better ... usually.

I agree - to a large extent. Still... My old 430-watt C&C ballasts, driving 430-watt HPS bulbs, gave me some of the tightest internodal spacing I'd seen (prior to using them) with HPS, whilst producing harvests that seemed significantly better than previous harvests under regular 400-watt HPS (the difference was greater than the extra 30 watts each would imply). The extra 30 watts was blue light of some sort - when they'd fire, in the first several seconds their output would be blueish. And then the light would get brighter, of course, and look much more like traditional HPS (but not exactly so).

Tailoring the spectrum should provide more benefits than gross yield, IMHO. But... Hmm... Do different types/wattages of LED have differing levels of penetrative ability? It seems like I see the tightest internodal spacing right before the plants grow close enough to suffer bleaching (and, shortly afterwards, burning :icon_roll ).

But, as I've already mentioned, I'm still a pup (in terms of my knowledge level in regards to the subject at hand), and still have many more questions than answers. Chief among my current set of questions is... Did that tiny little 18" ReptiSun "10.0" supplemental UV bulb in the middle of the LED panel... Is that why the skin on my arms appears to have aged 40 years (complete with lots of liver spots, which is something new for me) just since 2017 began? Am I looking at adding skin cancer to the list, now? I mostly use the Poor Folks Medical Plan - you know, ignore everything that hasn't actually killed you yet, lol. And that seems to have worked (err... so far) with a few odd lumps here and there, and the fact that, instead of panting after climbing a set of stairs like I have for decades, I pretty much pant all the time now. But it's hard to ignore the state of my arms, because I don't wear long-sleeved shirts until it gets cold enough (which is some point after the snow starts flying ) . And this concerns me, because my number one goal in life is to outlive my mother so that she never again has to endure the trauma of burying another of her children.

My number two goal is to find a bag of pizza rolls, along with half a jar of Hellman's Real Mayonnaise to dip them into .

Anyway, I'm also wondering about the possible health concerns of LEDs in general, and "blurple" (since, as stated above, this LED panel does contain 60 of the little critters). My eyes are already a lost cause, but the rest of me keeps hanging in there - and I cannot help but feel that, if I want to make it to 50 (not all that far off :embarrassment: )... maybe I ought to start paying attention to what I eat, drink, breathe, garden under, et cetera.

This has been an official TorturedSoul ramble .

You can spread them across the sky.

YES! Definitely an advantage.

They use less power.

<SHRUGS> In theory, I suppose. But if someone is looking at paying upwards of a grand (more?) for an LED grow light when they could spend a couple hundred on HPS instead, lol, why worry about dropping the electrical bill? If their lighting consumed 1,200 watts before, why not consume 1,200 watts' worth of LED power each month?

To me, "My LED uses 1/3 the power of my old HID lights," roughly translated, is actually "Gee, these LED things are expensive! I spent all my money and could only get a panel that consumes 200 watts." :rolleyes3 :icon_roll

But I am, after all, a bit of a smart-@ss from time to time.

In my case, I want them because you can spread them across the sky. I've never liked the configuration where you have a big hot bulb in the middle with your plants huddled around it.

<DING!> We have a winner!

Seems like even the best HID setups (or any single-point artifical light source, really) is going to have a whopping great "hot spot" directly underneath. As far as that goes, even my LED panel (which is not small, physically) is afflicted with this issue:

Big spike in the center of the room, especially with the 90° lenses in place. A light-rail would help, but...

If you can light a ring around the perimeter instead, all the plants will get a similar amount of light, and there are far more sources which drastically reduces shadowing. If I could put a ring of 50 watt HPS bulbs around the edges, that'd work for me too, except for the ridiculous amount of heat they'd throw off.

I'm thinking that the DiY "a bunch of COBs laid out in a grid" setup, and the available kits which provide for the same, might well be the way to go.

BtW, the "50-watt HPS" (I've only ever heard of low-pressure sodiums in that size, but... 70-watt HPS, maybe) thing makes a certain kind of sense. But what about penetration into the canopy? Many small lights can produce as much illumination as few large ones - but can they penetrate as well?

Actually, I've never really been clear on the whole penetration thing, as it applies to LED technology. I'd figured that I would have known something by now through personal experience, but the plants "got away from me" in vegetative and pretty much filled the space before ever getting a chance to flower. And I have become the universe's biggest procrastinator about it. I've rarely killed cannabis plants before harvest, let alone before they entered the flowering phase - and never ones as large as these - so it's... IDK. Overwhelming?

I was making do with cheap blurples in each corner to supplement a big blurple in the middle, but I was running 1000 watts in a 4x4. With boards I'll be able to get the same PAR and an even better spread, with only 2/3 of the power draw and therefore heat.

Or you could be the person who shows the world what 62½ watts per square foot of tailored, evenly distributed LED goodness can produce by keeping the same power consumption that you had previously, lol. Just think, sativas whose buds feel like indicas. Actually, that'd probably be overkill and be well above the amount of light-energy that cannabis could process in a day's time, even with supplemental CO₂.

Or would it? IDK.

Until very recently, they've been very expensive but you can put together a great setup for less than $1.50 a watt at 180+ lumens per watt (that's almost 50% better than a 1000DE hps - same PAR).

Lumens :rolleyes3 . I know, it's what the companies still use.

That's still not cheap. However, it's a lot cheaper than it used to be, and the technology is much better (which makes them even cheaper, in practical terms). The overall knowledge base has expanded greatly. And many people are demanding more these days, because they are much more informed. (Sadly, the world still seems chocked full of people who believe the ads for those "600w" blurples that they can buy for the bargain price of...)