I’m useless in hydro but my only comment - in first pics I can see tops of the rapid rooters…. weed roots love air but not exposure to light….
Gelato Autos just in veg: leaves on one plant not doing too well
- Thread starter Delps8
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- #22
Delps8
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The tan color of the roots is from the nutes and they’re not slick to the touch. The res smells like “fresh dirt” if that’s the right way to describe it. Water temperate has been 67° to 68° and I’m using Hydroguard at 2 ml/gallon.
What @013 said , caught it again thanks . That’s another animal, I see the pucks are green from algae robbing you of nutrients . But the roots need that nutrients muck rinsed off , can’t bring anything up that way !
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- #24
Delps8
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013 - yes, I’m using Rapid Rooters. The top of the res is “translucent” so perhaps some light gets through but I’d put it in the “measurable but insignicant” category. I’ve seen the PAR values on my Apogee when I move it away from the light and it’s amazing how it will read 0 yet there’s visible light. I guess that’s why it’s a PAR meter.
To your point, though, the vast majority of the root structure is underwater or doing their best to get there.
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- #25
Delps8
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“pucks” - ?
There’s no indication of root issues. The reservoir has been above 68° when the res was swapped but the chiller was running and the temp has never exceeded 68°.
There’s no unusual smell - it’s the “new res smell” that we all love.
The roots are not slimy to the touch. I did rinse Jeff’s roots and try to rub off the coloration but there was no change in color.
Due to the way that I’ve set up the plants for LST, it’s not easy to get the net pot out - I’m open to suggestions as to how to tie down plants with how my res is set up - but I did reach in through one of the net pot ports and bring Mary’s roots into the light. Same color and same “feel" - nothing slick or slimy.
In my previous grow, 4 GG autos, I had a chunk of some sort of slime at one point. It was only on one root so I cleaned it off and added another dose of Hydroguard. There was no particular smell to it and it was off white not brown. I haven’t seen anything like that since. Once was enough!
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- #26
Delps8
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I added 13 ml CalMag. The res is at 44% strength and I used 26 ML CalMag for that formulation. Adding the 13 ml gets me to about ¾ strength for CalMag so that’s a good boost. The CalMag bumped my TDS from 370/500 to 380/500.
About how quickly would that take effect?
About how quickly would that take effect?
Hiya Delps,
I've been lurking in the background, and you have the cream of the crop helping you out here. One thing I would do, if you can, is bump the temp in the res water up a bit.
FEEDSHEET TIPS
1. When mixing Kind nutrients, add Kind Base first, then add Kind Grow or Bloom and additives. Rinse measuring cups between doses to prevent contamination.
2. In warmer environments, plants will lose more water through transpiration. Applying a more dilute nutrient solution when temperatures are warmer will prevent over-fertilization.
3. If growing in coconut coir-based media or if using reverse osmosis water, add 3-5 ml of Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus to the nutrient solution recipe.
4. Maintain a nutrient solution pH range between 5.5-6.5 using Botanicare pH Up or pH Down.
5. The optimal temperature range of the nutrient solution is... 68°F - 75°F (20°C - 24°C).
6. Use nutrient solution immediately after mixing or keep solution circulating to prevent settling.
7. If using a recirculating system, maintain water level in reservoir by adding fresh water and nutrients as needed. Change solution every week.
8. If using a drain to waste system, allow 10-20% runoff to decrease potential for salt buildup. If no runoff is planned, reduce the PPM/EC to prevent potential salt buildup.
9. Additional Botanicare supplements have been scientifically formulated to meet plant needs during important phases of growth and development. Use Hydroguard for maximum root protection, Vitamino to enhance plant tissue development and maintain microbial-root health, and Clearex to break ionic bonds in the grow media while flushing or in the case of over fertilization.
You mentioned you were constantly at 68F, with a mention of 67F a couple of posts ago. With the other suggestions, and a degree or two higher, you may be able to get back on track.
I've been lurking in the background, and you have the cream of the crop helping you out here. One thing I would do, if you can, is bump the temp in the res water up a bit.
FEEDSHEET TIPS
1. When mixing Kind nutrients, add Kind Base first, then add Kind Grow or Bloom and additives. Rinse measuring cups between doses to prevent contamination.
2. In warmer environments, plants will lose more water through transpiration. Applying a more dilute nutrient solution when temperatures are warmer will prevent over-fertilization.
3. If growing in coconut coir-based media or if using reverse osmosis water, add 3-5 ml of Botanicare Cal-Mag Plus to the nutrient solution recipe.
4. Maintain a nutrient solution pH range between 5.5-6.5 using Botanicare pH Up or pH Down.
5. The optimal temperature range of the nutrient solution is... 68°F - 75°F (20°C - 24°C).
6. Use nutrient solution immediately after mixing or keep solution circulating to prevent settling.
7. If using a recirculating system, maintain water level in reservoir by adding fresh water and nutrients as needed. Change solution every week.
8. If using a drain to waste system, allow 10-20% runoff to decrease potential for salt buildup. If no runoff is planned, reduce the PPM/EC to prevent potential salt buildup.
9. Additional Botanicare supplements have been scientifically formulated to meet plant needs during important phases of growth and development. Use Hydroguard for maximum root protection, Vitamino to enhance plant tissue development and maintain microbial-root health, and Clearex to break ionic bonds in the grow media while flushing or in the case of over fertilization.
You mentioned you were constantly at 68F, with a mention of 67F a couple of posts ago. With the other suggestions, and a degree or two higher, you may be able to get back on track.
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- #28
Delps8
Well-Known Member
MrSauga - it's worth a shot. I bumped the setting on the chiller to 70° and we'll see how it goes.
In soil, we know Mg doesn't like cold temps. Shed has a great link tied to one of his other fingers. My thinking is that it may have a similar reaction in a cold water res. There's a reason why they don't want you to go below that, and I'm guessing it has to do with nutrient uptake.
Well this was more than helpful! Thank you for this insight!
I actually just posted that link today!
The effect of cold on cannabis plants
In this post we show you which methods you can use to avoid the cold in an indoor cannabis crop. There are various modes to keep a stable temperature during the winter so you can choose the resolution that best suits to your indoor or greenhouse crop for personal use.
www.alchimiaweb.com
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- #32
Delps8
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Interesting read. Thanks for posting it.
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- #33
Delps8
Well-Known Member
Added 13 ml Cal-Mag. Current Cal-Mag level is 200% of other nute strength. Some parts of the leaves look a little better this morning than they did about 12 hours ago and some are very slightly worse. It does appear that the damage has stopped spreading. Hope to have a better idea about how things are going by the end of the day.
I know, which is why I knew the link was on your finger.
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- #35
Delps8
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The devil is in the details…
The Kind feed chart calls for Cal Mag at 2 ml/gallon. In the text that you posted, check out item #3. I'm in RDWC and using RO. With that combo, I should be using 3-5 ml/gallon of CalMag. That's why the discoloration stopped when I added the second dose. At that point, the mixture was up to 4 ml/gallon.
Glad to hear you got her all fixed up. Nice job. 
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- #37
Delps8
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I'm not out of the woods yet.
This is a CalMag issue. Adding "extra" CalMag, brought the CM level to the middle of the recommended 3-5 ml/gallon. That stopped the issue with Mutt and Jeff.
Over the following day or so, I saw that one of Mary's big fan leaves was starting to turn light (learned a new word = "chlorosis"). Swapping the res yesterday didn't change that, so this AM I added 16 ml CalMag to raise it to 7 ml/gallon. Adding the CM took the TDS to 340. The pattern I 've seen with this res is that if responds to any TDS over 310 by dropping pH. Given that, I'm now at 290. I'm hoping to see pH and TDS rise.
Thank you, again, for posting the notes from the Kind feed sheet. That highlighted the need for a different CM level and it prodded me to check the instructions on each nute and compare that to the instructions on the Kind PDF. Lo and behold, the values are different (I've bolded the ones that are different).
Lesson learned - always check the bottle.
Now that it's clear that it's a CM issue the next task is doing juggling the CM level and the TDS to get these guys back on track. I'm going to go back to documenting in the current grow journal.
Many thanks for you help!
This is a CalMag issue. Adding "extra" CalMag, brought the CM level to the middle of the recommended 3-5 ml/gallon. That stopped the issue with Mutt and Jeff.
Over the following day or so, I saw that one of Mary's big fan leaves was starting to turn light (learned a new word = "chlorosis"). Swapping the res yesterday didn't change that, so this AM I added 16 ml CalMag to raise it to 7 ml/gallon. Adding the CM took the TDS to 340. The pattern I 've seen with this res is that if responds to any TDS over 310 by dropping pH. Given that, I'm now at 290. I'm hoping to see pH and TDS rise.
Thank you, again, for posting the notes from the Kind feed sheet. That highlighted the need for a different CM level and it prodded me to check the instructions on each nute and compare that to the instructions on the Kind PDF. Lo and behold, the values are different (I've bolded the ones that are different).
Lesson learned - always check the bottle.
Now that it's clear that it's a CM issue the next task is doing juggling the CM level and the TDS to get these guys back on track. I'm going to go back to documenting in the current grow journal.
Many thanks for you help!
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