Grow Issues

It is for sure magnesium deficiency, mixed with maybe a bit of calcium deficiency. I am going to grab some calmag and some ph down to correct my water for 6.3-6.5. probably end up doing a flush as the soil ph was way to high for what i want. Thank you for your help. I will probably start a journal for my og kush autos as they are my very first grow and im learning like crazy.
a proper flush will go a long ways! Might just turn it around and put everything back on track!! Hit her with the normal nutes you’ve been feeding, except up it a bit, and hit her hard with the cal mag. Proper PH, and I hope she turn around for you brother!
 
a proper flush will go a long ways! Might just turn it around and put everything back on track!! Hit her with the normal nutes you’ve been feeding, except up it a bit, and hit her hard with the cal mag. Proper PH, and I hope she turn around for you brother!
Since they are dry amendments, I would just end up top dressing the replacement nutrients? Me too, these seeds are unknown so im not super concerned at the performance but its good learning for when my og's get bigger.
Thanks :)
 
update on my plants, my tap water is 8.0 so i corrected that down, also a bit of calmag but it appears there is some nutrient burn happening now. or starting to happen. could also be lighting burn as the light got turned up.
 

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Size (Wattage) of Light? How Many? 1 - 1000w Mars hydro
Size or Square Footage of Room? 5x5

Mars Hydro does not sell a 1,000-watt light. If you are referring to their TS-1000, it is only a 150-watt light - and is WAY undersized for a 25 ft.2 grow space! They work pretty decently in a 2'x2' space, but yours is over six times larger than that.

roughly 30-36 inches above.

Especially at that height above the tops of your plants. You cannot "create light" by raising an inadequate device way too high... Just because it lights up the entire space well enough that way to (presumably) be able to read a newspaper anywhere in it does not mean the same works for productive plant growth. Try lowering it to 24", and with the intentions of lowering it more relatively soon. From the manufacturer's own coverage map (a 2'x2' one), it appears that an 18" distance from the top of the canopy to the bottom of the device gives a PAR value, whatever units (can't think right now, pain sucks :( ) of 750 - which is great, but that's directly under the center of the product. Around the perimeter of that 2'x2' square, the measured amounts are... not great. Usable, sure - but it demonstrates what I mean; the measurements were taken in a 3'x3' grow tent, which is too large for the LED. In a 2'x2' one, the reflective walls would have stopped the spread/diffusion of the product's output and reflected it back, making those measurements near the edge of the 2'x2' area higher.

Maybe lower the thing to 28" above the top of your plants initially, then lower it four more inches a few days later. And, if it's your only light source, consider trading your grow tent for a 2'x2' one, lol. Or at least moving the light closer to one of your current tent's corners and the plants together underneath it.

The above suggestion assumes your plants are past the "sprout" stage, and actively growing.

my tap water is 8.0 so i corrected that down

A pH adjuster should be the final thing you add to your nutrient solution, after all the other nutrients/supplements. You should mix/stir/shake well after adding each separate component, and allow the solution's pH to stabilize for a short time before checking and adjusting its pH.

also a bit of calmag

Most combo "cal-mag" products' directions instruct the user to add that to the water first, before anything else. Unless you are also adding silicon, in which case that's supposed to go in first, followed by the Ca/Mg product. And then everything else, one at a time (and, again, mixing your nutrient solution well after each product addition). Finally, check the nutrient solution's pH and, if necessary, adjust it. Be sure not to overdo it with the adjuster, or you could find yourself having to add the opposite product (which is wasteful and, generally speaking, not a good idea).

but it appears there is some nutrient burn happening now. or starting to happen. could also be lighting burn as the light got turned up.

I'm speaking (typing) in generalities again - but, generally speaking, plants that are not receiving an adequate amount of light-energy cannot use as many nutrients as ones that are. That's why people using the "full strength" feeding directions on plants often see signs of overfeeding. (Well, okay, that plus nutrient manufacturers being happy to sell you more products than you need ;) .) It's also why the old "only use two of the three General Hydroponics Flora series components" directions had two different recommendations, one for strong HID lighting and one for lesser lights like fluorescent setups. Et cetera. If a person consistently overfeeds their plants, they may not only see signs of general overfeeding - they could easily cause a nutrient lockout situation of one or more elements, where the plant(s) cannot properly take in and use that/those element(s). Do a search for a graphic called Mulder's Chart; it shows the relationships between various elements and how having too much of one effects another. In the absolute sense, not all of these relationships are negative - most overabundance situations are, but some actually cause a plant to be able to access more of an element... which can quickly mean that you begin seeing signs of excessive amounts of that nutrient even though you weren't technically giving too much of it. Very useful graphic, IMHO.
 
Mars Hydro does not sell a 1,000-watt light. If you are referring to their TS-1000, it is only a 150-watt light - and is WAY undersized for a 25 ft.2 grow space! They work pretty decently in a 2'x2' space, but yours is over six times larger than that.



Especially at that height above the tops of your plants. You cannot "create light" by raising an inadequate device way too high... Just because it lights up the entire space well enough that way to (presumably) be able to read a newspaper anywhere in it does not mean the same works for productive plant growth. Try lowering it to 24", and with the intentions of lowering it more relatively soon. From the manufacturer's own coverage map (a 2'x2' one), it appears that an 18" distance from the top of the canopy to the bottom of the device gives a PAR value, whatever units (can't think right now, pain sucks :( ) of 750 - which is great, but that's directly under the center of the product. Around the perimeter of that 2'x2' square, the measured amounts are... not great. Usable, sure - but it demonstrates what I mean; the measurements were taken in a 3'x3' grow tent, which is too large for the LED. In a 2'x2' one, the reflective walls would have stopped the spread/diffusion of the product's output and reflected it back, making those measurements near the edge of the 2'x2' area higher.

Maybe lower the thing to 28" above the top of your plants initially, then lower it four more inches a few days later. And, if it's your only light source, consider trading your grow tent for a 2'x2' one, lol. Or at least moving the light closer to one of your current tent's corners and the plants together underneath it.

The above suggestion assumes your plants are past the "sprout" stage, and actively growing.



A pH adjuster should be the final thing you add to your nutrient solution, after all the other nutrients/supplements. You should mix/stir/shake well after adding each separate component, and allow the solution's pH to stabilize for a short time before checking and adjusting its pH.



Most combo "cal-mag" products' directions instruct the user to add that to the water first, before anything else. Unless you are also adding silicon, in which case that's supposed to go in first, followed by the Ca/Mg product. And then everything else, one at a time (and, again, mixing your nutrient solution well after each product addition). Finally, check the nutrient solution's pH and, if necessary, adjust it. Be sure not to overdo it with the adjuster, or you could find yourself having to add the opposite product (which is wasteful and, generally speaking, not a good idea).



I'm speaking (typing) in generalities again - but, generally speaking, plants that are not receiving an adequate amount of light-energy cannot use as many nutrients as ones that are. That's why people using the "full strength" feeding directions on plants often see signs of overfeeding. (Well, okay, that plus nutrient manufacturers being happy to sell you more products than you need ;) .) It's also why the old "only use two of the three General Hydroponics Flora series components" directions had two different recommendations, one for strong HID lighting and one for lesser lights like fluorescent setups. Et cetera. If a person consistently overfeeds their plants, they may not only see signs of general overfeeding - they could easily cause a nutrient lockout situation of one or more elements, where the plant(s) cannot properly take in and use that/those element(s). Do a search for a graphic called Mulder's Chart; it shows the relationships between various elements and how having too much of one effects another. In the absolute sense, not all of these relationships are negative - most overabundance situations are, but some actually cause a plant to be able to access more of an element... which can quickly mean that you begin seeing signs of excessive amounts of that nutrient even though you weren't technically giving too much of it. Very useful graphic, IMHO.
Ohhh shit, I was mislead with that light by a lot. I was told it was an 1000watt light. but further research which i never did does indeed reveal that. yikes.
Also I do add the ph adjuster last, calmag is the only liquid nutrients I added as I amended with gaia green. I also add very small amounts and mix well before test little by little.
Ive looked into the mulder chart aswell as a general ph nutrient uptake chart. But Ill definently order another light i think.
 
Ohhh shit, I was mislead with that light by a lot. I was told it was an 1000watt light. but further research which i never did does indeed reveal that. yikes.
Also I do add the ph adjuster last, calmag is the only liquid nutrients I added as I amended with gaia green. I also add very small amounts and mix well before test little by little.
Ive looked into the mulder chart aswell as a general ph nutrient uptake chart. But Ill definently order another light i think.
put in another order for a another light to sit beside this one.
 
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