High Pressure Aeroponics

The Horny Male. I am collecting his pollen as he has such great traits. Can I pollinate him and his sister?
There is a number of good punchlines that could come of this question, I shall refrain.

Yes, you can pollenate her. Better results may be had by crossing with a non-related strain though, as I read that this will often produce very vigorous 1st generation offspring.

But, if you can pollenate him, now that would be impressive! :)

Seriously though, they look great, PetFlora! That lady looks likes she'll become a huge budscicle!
 
Everything about this grow has been slow, but I did not know the right amount of light to use for these AFs.

Now, my buds are developing, but... slowly. I am wondering, if I increase from 12/12 to 20/4 will that speed up buds or further slow them down? Anybody?
 
How is the root system looking.Not sure what nutes you are using but I think if you make a mix of a root care product or cleaner in a squirt bottle and give them a good spay it may help.If you have salt build up this will slow growth rates.IMHO messing with light schedule may shock your ladie...I would cut that male and save the pollen.I think you can boil the pollen sacks to get them to open then pute them in a plastic bag and pollenate a few buds rather than pollinate the whole plant.Plants are looking good nice and healthy:cool::goodjob:
 
Turttle the male was moved outdoors

Toaor do you know this for a fact or are you surmising? The plants' natural light requirement is 20/4 from seed to harvest. I interrupted it to force flowering after 60+ days. It may have flipped anyway as that is its' nature. And that being its' nature, does it prefer 20/4 to finish?
 
Hey PF, I was talking in terms of a normal seed not an autoflowering, what are yours?

If Auto, then I have no real clue as I haven't grown any yet but plan to on my next grow Lowryder 2's.

If your seeds are Non Auto then as far as I'm aware and everything I've read says 20/4 is great for vegging but plants don't flower under that ratio.

I can't think of anywhere in the world that would have a 20 hr sunlight cycle, most are either northern or southern hemisphere or equatorial. North and south have a gradual progressionof sunlight each day then waning down after the Summer equinox, once it reaches 12-14 hrs that's when most plants flowers.

So in answer to your question, I'm summising you have normal seeds not autos.

Toaor
 
hey there petflora. i just got an ultrasonic fogger and was going to experiment with it. i plan on using a 5 gal bucket with a 5'netpot filled with hygroton. i've been doing some research on foggers and the on/off times are all over the place. any suggestions would be appreciated
 
Jammie: I tried hard to make fog work. Total waste of time.

Feed-Pause Update: After a lot of experimentation, this plant top cannot tolerate more than 2:20 pause with 2 second feed. My roots are not totally normal, but pretty close. The tap root made a right turn about 4 inches down so it looks like a pony tail.

A longer feed time is counter-productive as it only soaks the roots. It could be that I would need to reposition the mist heads up high (easy to do), though I have them aimed high and the atomized mist does fill the entire pod. I also tried 3 second feed to increase the amount of atomized mist but roots were soaking.

The plant looks very healthy. I have tons of lateral roots but cannot see root hairs. They may be there and I just need a large magnifying glass to see them.

I have another batch of the same AFs going that I had to force to show sex. In 5-6 weeks, one already showed it's a male. Hopefully the other 4 are females.
hth
 
hey there PF- thanks for the quick reply. fortunately i only spent $28 rather than a couple hundred on the nutramist. after several weeks of research i was beginning to wonder why i wasn't finding more peeps using this method. in theory- fog should be able to hold lots more o2 than the amount of disolved oxygen in the dwc/bubbler that i currently use.
 
i'd heard that too about the heat, but so far i had 1 in a 5 gal bucket with 2 gal of water and the temp has only gone up 2-3 degress in over 24 hrs. i have 1 of the small 1 cell size. right now i have 5 fem slh, 5 fem og18 and 1 kandy kush in biosponges at 4 days old and i was going to transfer them to a diy fogger cloner-type tub for a week before they go into the net pots and dwc buckets. right now their just getting ph'd water anyway, so nute uptake isn't an issue. my usual system is set up to veg 10, so i may experiment with trying the fogger in 1 extra bucket to see what happens.
 
jammie, even if you don't see a heat problem, foggers cannot lift > 10 micron droplets. Your roots won't get fed properly. hth

yep your right! thanks for convincing me that its a waste of effort. maybe i'll use the fogger as another humidity source since i'm only at 45% and i'm shooting for 60. oh well- back to what i know functions well.
 
PETFLORA?? Help pls. I am trying the HP Aero using Rubbermaid totes and Mistking reptile misters.

So far i'm noticing a lot of light penetrating the totes so i need to better wrap and insulate to keep heat out as well. I have two 22 gal totes stacked sitting inside a 35 gal filled with ice water to keep temps good. There is proably about 6" of water in bottom of stacked totes with plants and airstones inside. The nutrient reservoir is about 8-10 gallons inside an 18 gal tote thats inside a 35 gallon with ice water to keep nutes at about 64-67 degrees also with airstone.

I have to every so often empty some of the water out of the bottom tote but try to leave in a few inches atleast. The roots are growing so long that they are just sitting in the bottom of the water. There is two airstones in the bottom though and also the ice water bath around it keeps it cool and darker. I need to wrap the top totes with something else and i've already put the reflective film on the lids to keep light from going right through the tops. Is that ok to reflect light back up at bottom of plants??
Right now i'm using a few smaller 6500k cfl and i also have a 600 watt stealthgrow led. I picked up clones 2.5 weeks ago. Lost almost all roots when transplanting because they came out of dirt cups. new roots grew and i clipped off some of the mess. They seemed to recover fast but the smallest one from start is now the big one. starting just under 3" and now at 2.5 weeks in Aero is almost 10". idk if thats good but it had a few rough days where room got too hot or hose disconnected from nutes for hours.

Idk how to post pics right into the thread here but this is the link for the pic i posted of the roots after i put misting times down to about 3-4 seconds and then a few min off. This lost most roots when removing dirt and then in about 5 days this is what i found.

roots60.jpg


Let me know how what i should be feeding them? I could use help there. So far using the GH lucas formula at 5.7 ph and 320 ppm. I picked clones 2.5 weeks ago and went from 3" to 8-10". Should I be feeding high ppm or something other than lucas formula? I heard people say they started doubling yields with advanced nutrients. I'm hoping this LED works out. They are crazy expensive and heard a few good reviews so hopefully it comes through for me.
 
2 days ago I increased pause- now at 2:30; all leafs still reaching for the sky, pistils growing nicely even seeing some trics. This with < 2 second feed cycle. However, after the following observation, and noting that at ~ 2 second feed the chamber cleared in less than 3 seconds, I increased feed to 4 seconds (pod clears in ~ 7 seconds) and pause to 3 minutes. I will monitor the pause over the next day (only one more hour of light left today) to see how long I can extend it, and whether this will bring the root hairs. Seems the feed/pause parameters are longer when not using an accumulator.

I also have a second crop going (4th week of veg). The first 3 weeks I was using a walmart twin stone bubbler. (I will replace this with an Elite 802 air pump and 2 Sunleaves 4" cylinder stones for future start -ups: it rocks some serious bubbles in my main system rez (I was using the walmart set up there). A week ago I moved these plants to a 18G pod using another Aquatec 8800. Two days ago I began adding flower nutes to the veg nutes. Feed time is being controlled by a DNe timer, whose lowest actual setting is roughly 30 seconds; I am pausing at ~20 minutes. The plants and roots are growing bigger and faster than I have ever seen. Lots of fishbones, but of course the roots are holding a lot of water droplets. I just repositioned the mist heads to see if that will minimize the problem. Seems like the veg stage is a lot more forgiving, or, do the roots simply need longer feed times during early veg?
 
PETFLORA?? Help pls. I am trying the HP Aero using Rubbermaid totes and Mistking reptile misters. These are basically the same as mine. What pump are you using?

So far I'm noticing a lot of light penetrating the totes so i need to better wrap and insulate to keep heat out as well. Heavy Aluminum Foil works I have two 22 gal totes stacked sitting inside a 35 gal filled with ice water to keep temps good. There is probably about 6" of water in bottom of stacked totes with plants and airstones inside. The nutrient reservoir is about 8-10 gallons inside an 18 gal tote that's inside a 35 gallon with ice water to keep nutes at about 64-67 degrees also with airstone. [/I]Damn good set up, but that's a lot of nutes for roughly 6 mature plants. How many plants are you growing? I understand the safety valve inside the root pod, but it creates problems too- specifically, the tap roots make a beeline for it out instead of developing lateral roots. As soon as the tap roots come in contact with the water on the bottom your system becomes FAG- (faux aeroponic grow) :laughtwo: Not the worst thing, but it is a variable. Sounds like your choice of strains is too big for aero though. I found that out the hard way on my last grow with a lot of bag seed that was Sat dominant. I had to add the stacked totes midway through, which diminished my plant height by 2 feet: they grew past my LED. I compensated by adding CFLs on the sides [/I][/B]

I have to every so often empty some of the water out of the bottom tote but try to leave in a few inches atleast. The roots are growing so long that they are just sitting in the bottom of the water. WTF??? You said your plants are like 10", are you saying their roots are like 44"s?????? There is two airstones in the bottom though and also the ice water bath around it keeps it cool and darker. Unless you experience brown-outs in your area I would eliminate the water inside the the pods. I need to wrap the top totes with something else and i've already put the reflective film on the lids to keep light from going right through the tops. Is that ok to reflect light back up at bottom of plants?? Absolutely, good in fact.
Right now i'm using a few smaller 6500k cfl and i also have a 600 watt stealthgrow led. NICE I picked up clones 2.5 weeks ago. Lost almost all roots when transplanting because they came out of dirt cups. new roots grew and i clipped off some of the mess. They seemed to recover fast but the smallest one from start is now the big one. starting just under 3" and now at 2.5 weeks in Aero is almost 10". idk if that's good but it had a few rough days where room got too hot or hose disconnected from nutes for hours. HPA raises the near dead!

Idk how to post pics right into the thread here but this is the link for the pic i posted of the roots after i put misting times down to about 3-4 seconds and then a few min off. This lost most roots when removing dirt and then in about 5 days this is what i found. Lots of root hairs. I'm envious.:cheer:

https://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/500/roots.PNG

Let me know how what i should be feeding them? I could use help there. So far using the GH lucas formula at 5.7 ph and 320 ppm. There is no set amount as some plants like more ppms than others. Let the leaf tips guide you. Start clones ~350, increase weekly by ~100 until you peak at 650, then flip to flower beginning at ~ 600, add 100 ppms per week max at ~900. You should have ~ 4 ft tall plants by then, but that also means 4ft roots. I am moving to shorter plants to avoid this problem. I picked clones 2.5 weeks ago and went from 3" to 8-10". Should I be feeding high ppm or something other than lucas formula? No need for Lucas. Just mix and feed, but once you flip (better do that soon) monitor your runoff pH and ppms. About 3 weeks in you will see a noticeable increase in both. From then on do not recycle the nutes! I heard people say they started doubling yields with advanced nutrients. I'm hoping this LED works out. They are crazy expensive and heard a few good reviews so hopefully it comes through for me.
So far, I am very happy ith DM Gold line, but their customer service and web info sucks.

Send pics when they hit 12=14", at which point you best be flipping unless your grow room height is 12 ft and you have stilts.

hth
 
AFs are an entirely different breed. They will grow and flower in 12/12, 18/6 and 20/4. The less light, the smaller the plant, and therefore, the lower the yield. I found out Bubbleicous is not an AF, but that is what was crossed with the Lowryder #2 (AF). The seeds with Bubble dominant have taken much longer to finish. My follow up plants (same batch) seem to be more Lowryder dominant; one formed bananas in 4 weeks, the remaining 3 are hopefully females.

hth


Hey PF, I was talking in terms of a normal seed not an autoflowering, what are yours?

If Auto, then I have no real clue as I haven't grown any yet but plan to on my next grow Lowryder 2's.

If your seeds are Non Auto then as far as I'm aware and everything I've read says 20/4 is great for vegging but plants don't flower under that ratio.

I can't think of anywhere in the world that would have a 20 hr sunlight cycle, most are either northern or southern hemisphere or equatorial. North and south have a gradual progressionof sunlight each day then waning down after the Summer equinox, once it reaches 12-14 hrs that's when most plants flowers.

So in answer to your question, I'm summising you have normal seeds not autos.

Toaor
 
CORRECTION: On this and other sites I have mistakenly been calling the method I am using HPA (High Pressure Aero) because I am using a high pressure pump. I now know that the pump alone is not the qualifier: to be HPA the nutrients need to be under constant high pressure so that when the timer comes on 100% of the nutes are delivered at a high pressure. Since my rez is open (not under pressure) my pump has to pressurize each time it cycles (now every 3:25 sec), meaning that the first second of each feed cycle is not delivered under full high pressure. How important is this? I am working on that in my current journal here.

In order to be properly called HPA, one needs an accumulator to keep the nutrients under constant pressure.

Here's a pic from my current grow. It's a quasi-AF cross between Lowryder #2 (AF) and Bubblicious, which is not an AF, but a short plant. The combination can produce 24" plants when the Sat is dominant.

Lots of bud sites, plus trics are beginning to sticky things up
Sorry for some reason I am unable to insert pic. It is in my gallery though, or my thread So Ya Wanna Grow Weed, Huh?
.
 
Back
Top Bottom