House water heater Co2 question
- Thread starter LED-Freak
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dragontoker
New Member
No oxygen depletion safeties and the chance of creating CO. Hot water heaters wouldnt be my first idea for CO2 supplementation but it might be someones last.
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- #3
How?
Maybe old heaters.......it should work just fine...not 1500ppm by any means but a nice increase over ambient.
Whats "No oxygen depletion" mean? By ducting I wont create CO, I dont understand what you mean by that? If the heater was producing CO by not burning the gas entirely, I would already know. It wont just happen by ducting the preexisting duct though.
Thanks for the reply but I need to know if I need a fan or not on the duct.
Maybe old heaters.......it should work just fine...not 1500ppm by any means but a nice increase over ambient.
Whats "No oxygen depletion" mean? By ducting I wont create CO, I dont understand what you mean by that? If the heater was producing CO by not burning the gas entirely, I would already know. It wont just happen by ducting the preexisting duct though.
Thanks for the reply but I need to know if I need a fan or not on the duct.
ummm...the reason there vented was because they also let off carbon monoxide?? at least that's what I thought...
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- #5
If you go look at your vent, it is just a hood placed over the heater. Its not sealed, probably a good 2 inch gap. They are there to catch the co2, steam, and heat. If they were meant to vent CO they would be sealed, I promise that.
Thats why if your shit does generate CO, that vent does nothing and you hear about people falling asleep and not waking back up.
If thats the case, better vent the burner on your natural gas stove every time you use it. hahaha a lot of people think that though. I guess you have to understand how they work. By product of natural gas is Co2, thats why Co2 generators burn propane or natural gas. Now you can sit there and tell me "they do it more efficient and dont generate CO" but the rules of science are science and the by product of buring natural gas/propane is Co2.
Creating CO is another story and if it were you should know already by CO detectors!!
budlydoright
Well-Known Member
Changing your ducting changes the chimmeny effect that the vent stack produces. This could cause combustion problems, not sure not an expert. I have seen threads where it's been done. But it wasn't an inexpensive setup. There was a Co2 controller and vents that were opened and closed. My tankless water heater that i use for Co2 only runs a few minutes every 20 minutes. A tanked heater could run full buner for an hour plus. Adding no co2 is better than too much, at least on this scale!
Thanks for explaining that LED....I hardly know anything about gas burning and emmitted gasses but I looked into it and supposedly CO2 comes out of natural gas at like 120,000ppm where CO is only like 40ppm... doesn't seem like much at all 
thanks for sharing the idea
thanks for sharing the idea - Thread starter
- #9
ya know, I didnt think of it like that. You are totally right. Sometimes I get ahead of myself with these damn'd ideas. totally gonna spread some rep for being a pimmmmp.
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- #10
Thanks for explaining that LED....I hardly know anything about gas burning and emmitted gasses but I looked into it and supposedly CO2 comes out of natural gas at like 120,000ppm where CO is only like 40ppm... doesn't seem like much at all
Ya but I gotta admit, it isnt a wise idea. I wish I could retract this thread, it is not safe, and just a dumb stoner idea. Though the by products of science do not differ, this method is not controllable without equipment which most do not have. Please do me a favor and scratch this idea. Seriously. No good.
They do have some CO2 products out that I have been hearing good things about. I picked up these things called CO2 sheets, which there about the size of 1' x 1' or so, and they release up to 1000ppm for 1 week when sprayed with water, or release slower for longer if just let to slowly give it off.
There also are products called CO2 bag which is some type of bio-CO2, a buddy of mine has used them and say they give off quite a bit of co2 for up to 6 months... I've never used these but heard good things..
I have also used the yeast, sugar, water technique which lets off a very low amount of co2, but I figure any more than naturally is in the air is good
There also are products called CO2 bag which is some type of bio-CO2, a buddy of mine has used them and say they give off quite a bit of co2 for up to 6 months... I've never used these but heard good things..
I have also used the yeast, sugar, water technique which lets off a very low amount of co2, but I figure any more than naturally is in the air is good
dragontoker
New Member
The little hood on your heater is called a draft hood and it serves a dual purpose. 1. Its there in case of a down draft through the chimney, it prevents the burners from being blown out. 2. takes in air to help complete the combustion process.
Burners on gas stoves are suppose to be vented, maybe not directly but under a hood just like in every commercial kitchen,,,except in the home you have a small Broan 30" or whatever model. You are suppose to run this while you cook. Every year people die from trying to heat their homes with their gas range. If you run any gas appliance that isnt a 100% efficient for any length of time (which none of them are) you should either vent it or have oxygen depletion safeties installed. Its a device that shuts down the burners in case there is a lack of oxygen in the room. Some devices already have these installed such as: Un-vented fireplaces, un-vented blue flame heaters, and unvented CO2 generators. Un-vented items used in occupied places either need to be vented or have safeties. I hope this explains it well.
You are more then welcome to do whatever you please with your household appliances, I have no say but I will say that I wouldnt personally do it and Ive worked with gas appliances, furnaces and rooftops almost everyday for the last 2 decades.
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- #13
Thanks for that response. You make very logical points so let me run my actual plan across you.
I want to get this but in a 4" dia.
Suncourt ZO106 6-inch Diameter Normally Open Electronic Hvac Air Duct
wired for 120vac. Put a T on the draft hood duct and install that valve connected to to a Co2 controller so it opens and closes the valve at set-points. When the tent reaches 1400ppm the valve closes and the HW heaters exhaust normally. The exhaust fan in the tent is also constantly running rated @ 220cfm and the tent is 104cufu. I have a CO detector to put inside the tent and one to put by the HW heater.
I even have a natural gas/liquid propane detector to use. Watcha think, think Im gonna blow my ass into the stratosphere?
dragontoker
New Member
In theory it should work but the motorized zone controller will never be sealed when shut so it will always be pumping something into the room even if its closed. Is this a problem, probably not. Do I trust the detectors, not very much. I would put the 2 detectors in the grow room and another one near the hot water heater and obviously one in your living space be it upstairs or wherever.
Hot water heaters I doubt will run enough during the day to supplement co2 when you need it. The time when you will benefit the most will be obviously around the times the family takes showers or does laundry. So in actuality your co2 controller will be opening up the zone to no incoming co2,,,cause the heater probably wont be on.
Reasons why I still wouldnt do it. Hot water heaters are notorious for incomplete combustion because of the amount of moisture thats involved in and around them. Hot water heaters fail because of rust. Rust builds up in the burner compartment, air shutters on burners can be compromised by spider webs or just dust webs which causes the burners to burn yellow.
CO2 generators are much safer from what I have seen in pictures, never seen one in person. They use strictly burner orifices instead of burners. By just using orifices they have less chance to clog or get dirty in some form or another. Plus they use the recommended safety devices, at least the ones I looked up. I still wouldnt use one unless it was in an outdoor greenhouse.
Its just my preference because of all the accidental deaths I have had the unfortunate non-pleasure of coming across that I wouldnt use anything but a tank of CO2, a regulator and a controller to supplement an indoor grow.
Hot water heaters I doubt will run enough during the day to supplement co2 when you need it. The time when you will benefit the most will be obviously around the times the family takes showers or does laundry. So in actuality your co2 controller will be opening up the zone to no incoming co2,,,cause the heater probably wont be on.
Reasons why I still wouldnt do it. Hot water heaters are notorious for incomplete combustion because of the amount of moisture thats involved in and around them. Hot water heaters fail because of rust. Rust builds up in the burner compartment, air shutters on burners can be compromised by spider webs or just dust webs which causes the burners to burn yellow.
CO2 generators are much safer from what I have seen in pictures, never seen one in person. They use strictly burner orifices instead of burners. By just using orifices they have less chance to clog or get dirty in some form or another. Plus they use the recommended safety devices, at least the ones I looked up. I still wouldnt use one unless it was in an outdoor greenhouse.
Its just my preference because of all the accidental deaths I have had the unfortunate non-pleasure of coming across that I wouldnt use anything but a tank of CO2, a regulator and a controller to supplement an indoor grow.
miwa
New Member
Do the expected results justify the means???...does $$$ play a role???...how much is your plants worth..how much is your life worth???..get a tank of co2...
