please start a grow journal with those lights if you have the time, I have been very curious to see them perform!!! excellent purchase!
Inductive Lighting
- Thread starter MasterLarry
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please start a grow journal with those lights if you have the time, I have been very curious to see them perform!!! excellent purchase!
Your gonna love those lights. Keep us updated on your results.
Here's a update on the grow. I harvest the og kush and atf.
The widow and cheese are at day 28. The ww is on the left
and the cheese is on right. I have added a sour diesel in the back-middle
and northern lights in the front-middle. I also want to give props
to the H3ad formula. It has made growing easier and I'm now using it with hydro
and hand watering.
Here's a update on the grow. I harvest the og kush and atf.
The widow and cheese are at day 28. The ww is on the left
and the cheese is on right. I have added a sour diesel in the back-middle
and northern lights in the front-middle. I also want to give props
to the H3ad formula. It has made growing easier and I'm now using it with hydro
and hand watering.
Should be getting them on Monday. Any chance you get to see the recent 5 x 10 tent grow they posted up on their facebook page it's worth a watch. You can get to it from the homepage. It does seem that the 200's in the middle would let you run them lower then the 2 420's to help catch some better lower branch penetration. maybe put my cloner in the middle. That would be down $$ the road for me though
peace
peace
Pinder, yes I've checked out their home page. That's what helped sell me on this type of lighting system.
Here's an update on my grow.The girls are in day 7 and 35. WW and cheese are day 35.
NL and sd are day 7. Pinder lets see some pics of your girls when your up and growing.
Here's an update on my grow.The girls are in day 7 and 35. WW and cheese are day 35.
NL and sd are day 7. Pinder lets see some pics of your girls when your up and growing.
Got both of the IG420's on Monday (good packing - no damage yeah!) and went to work putting them up in my 4 x 8 tent. Some of the first things I noticed is they are fairly light @ 15lbs ballast included and they do come on instantly but it takes a few minutes to come up to full bright. definitely not going to be a dark spot in the tent. As to operating temperature they don't run near as hot as an HID. Within 6" of the lamp or the ballast housing you can't feel any heat whatsoever.
I'm planning on running 8 plants in soil in this tent with a 50/50 combo of northern lights and white widow. it should let me bush out and maybe do a bit of latticing was my thought once they get top heavy.
This I thought was interesting; It's been 3 days now since I left the one IG420 running for my clones which I keep on the same 12/12 timer as the two white widows currently under the 1000w HPS about 8 ft away and the WW had portions bending towards the IG420. I've never seen them do that before. That makes me think that there are spectrums in the blue side that a flowering plant will look for.
I'm planning on running 8 plants in soil in this tent with a 50/50 combo of northern lights and white widow. it should let me bush out and maybe do a bit of latticing was my thought once they get top heavy.
This I thought was interesting; It's been 3 days now since I left the one IG420 running for my clones which I keep on the same 12/12 timer as the two white widows currently under the 1000w HPS about 8 ft away and the WW had portions bending towards the IG420. I've never seen them do that before. That makes me think that there are spectrums in the blue side that a flowering plant will look for.
do you have a grow journal here? I would love to watch these lights perform!! Also, is there any way you could make one of these and post your results...?
DIY Spectrometer - Check what wavelengths your lights give out
I would love to see the spectoral balance that these babies are putting out..
You are going to love your new lighting system. The light from these are very close to the sun.
Can't wait to see your results.
wheat berry
New Member
i hooked the kill-a-watt meter to my ig420 and the meter says its drawing 397 watts. i would bet the ig400's are pulling the same power, anyone with an ig 400 and a kill-a watt meter want to take a watt reading?
hope everyone stays safe.
hope everyone stays safe.
Getting a little backed up at work so its been tough to even get online...getting home bushed...gurlz are looking great going into the second week of veg with no stretch and full fan leaves. Not having to run AC's yet and its averaging around 75f outside the tent. So I'm still pulling fresh air in with just the exhaust fan.
I have one of those cheapo home depot watt meters that I checked both my 420's on and one draws 409 and other draws 422. Don't know why the variation but their running good and if there is any difference in light output I can't see it. I wonder why one would draw more then the other though?
I have one of those cheapo home depot watt meters that I checked both my 420's on and one draws 409 and other draws 422. Don't know why the variation but their running good and if there is any difference in light output I can't see it. I wonder why one would draw more then the other though?
Got a text back from inda-gro this morning on the wattage issue... they told me this issue is addressed in the ambient operating temperatures FAQ's on their homepage... but basically what it said is that as the lamp heats up more of the mercury amalgam turns to gas and the pressure inside the glass builds up resulting in an increase in wattage. Yes the increase in wattage does mean more light intensity being put out but the lamps operating conditions will vary by up to 10% of the rated wattage based on even something like how much airflow there is around the amalgam tip. They suggested a little experiment on the 409 watt lamp that I put some type of insulation around the amalgam spur on the side of the lamp that would let it heat up the mercury a bit more. Since that fixture is closest to the exhaust fan and pulls more air around the lamp this is most likely why I see any difference at all but if I'm saving a few watts over all I'm okay with that too...
I hate work! Why can't I just be a full time gardener?
peace
I hate work! Why can't I just be a full time gardener?
peace
craigsilver
New Member
great information was looking for a good forum to discuss, been watching this company iGROW all over the web and youtube, has anyone used their lights? pretty impressive resume but proofs in the pudding, ready to purchase one but want to see if anyone has used them yet? no heat - oh my that would be awesome!
So they're claiming that their lights are capable of producing 3-4 grams per watt under optimum conditions, then?
I would be hard pressed to support a 3-4 g/w yield with these lamps. I could be wrong but pics or it didn't happen.
More likely scenarios would be like this AZ grower who nets. 1.2 lbs per light on a 55 day perpetual of G13 and Violator Kush. The video shows 4 plants under a single 420 lamp netting 130-140 g dry per plant which is a respectable 1.2-1.3 g/w and has plans to adjust to a SOG with 13 plants per light which they believe will increase yield further.
Of note; the single broad spectrum lamp approach being used here requires only a photoperiod adjustment when switching to flowering cycles.
SGL D
New Member
We have had our best results using 5000K for veg and 2700K for Bloom.
You're recommending buying a veg and a flowering lamp based on Kelvin values. Kelvin is a rating for visible light color. What does Kelvin have to do with plant chlorophyll absorption spectrums that are predominantly outside of the visible spectrums?
When you say your best results what do you mean? weight? quality? reduced harvest time? GCMS? Do you have any journals, videos or at least images you can point us to which illustrate what this light or combination of your lamps can do for mmj gardens?
Hosebomber
New Member
Kelvin is the color rendering temp. for white light. White light is a blending of all visible light. The more blue wavelengths in the light the higher the kelvin number. The more red wavelengths in the light the lower the number. Over 95% of all PAR wavelengths are in the visible spectra and thus correctly measured via the kelvin scale if it is a "white light".
I am curious as to where you got the idea that "plant chlorophyll absorption spectrums that are predominantly outside of the visible spectrums". A few post down I created a thread titled "Green Light Induces Shade Avoidance Symptoms". It contains links to a number of peer reviewed articles and university coursework. The following link will help most people greatly in the basic understanding of light and plant interaction: Light
I am curious as to where you got the idea that "plant chlorophyll absorption spectrums that are predominantly outside of the visible spectrums". A few post down I created a thread titled "Green Light Induces Shade Avoidance Symptoms". It contains links to a number of peer reviewed articles and university coursework. The following link will help most people greatly in the basic understanding of light and plant interaction: Light
Your link proves to illustrate my previous statement that very little chlorophyll absorption occurs between 500-600nm the human visual spectrum that we recognize as perceived colors after photons strike the surface of the object we are looking at and return color to our eye. The accuracy of that color measured against the light source putting out the light is measured as color rendering index 'CRI' with 100 being the highest value in terms color accuracy to the eye. Sunlight is the best for determining the color accuracy of the object we are looking at.
Plant lighting requires an entirely different criteria that unless the indoor gardener is aware of the distinctions will waste a fortune in manufacturers claims that their products mimic nature in blissful ignorance of plant photobiology. Allow me to elaborate:
lumens is for humans. kelvin, cri, lux, fc mean very little, with the exception of the carotenoid region, to determining if the light we are providing the plants meets its optimum daily UV/B-R/FR/IR spectral absorption requirements. Mfg's providing only lux, lumen, fc values have not given you any PAR intensity values and if they provide only CRI/Kelvin values they have not given you any PAR spectrum values to do a side by side lamp comparison.
For plant lighting you really want to know the number of photons striking a meter squared every second that measure between 400-700 nanometers. This 'moment in time' reading is the photosynthetic photon flux 'pff' reading for photon intensity within the 400-700nm plant action spectra.
When measuring pff over the course of a day it becomes photosynthetic photon flux density 'pffd' or how many photons within the PAR region contributed to the plants optimum photosynthetic absorption over the daily photoperiod. The Daily Light Integral 'DLI' for 'flowering' Cannabis is in the 20-25 Moles per day range. Lamps should ideally achieve these levels without Mole oversaturation or wasting too much energy (ie heat) above PAR (ie 1000watt HPS) to achieve optimum DLI.
Another thing to remember is that we see within the 500-600 nm spectrum so photons within the 400 -700 nm wavelength regions need to be weighted for plant spectra not visible. When using a quantum meter the readings will be in uMoles that uses an algorithm to lower the photon values in the 500-600 nm visible regions and apply uMoles (intensity as measured in the number of photons within PAR that are striking the sensor surface) to the plants UV/B and R/FR/IR regions where photosynthetic action spectra is most necessary. It is for these reasons that a better measurement, still not perfect, of lamp performance would be the manufacturers stating the pff/w rating of their lamps so the gardener would know what to expect within the PAR regions
The physics of light can be difficult to understand. Adding to the complexity is that plant lighting requires an understanding of plant photobiology and a completely different way of measuring that light compared to general area lighting. For years manufacturers have relied on those complexities and a myriad of competing technologies to promote some special feature of their lamps. What is really a pisser is how often these latest and greatest technologies have relied on design obsolence (ie lamp change outs especially for the indoor gardener) and how these 'improvements' never result in lower lamp prices. hmmmmmm???
Plant lighting requires an entirely different criteria that unless the indoor gardener is aware of the distinctions will waste a fortune in manufacturers claims that their products mimic nature in blissful ignorance of plant photobiology. Allow me to elaborate:
lumens is for humans. kelvin, cri, lux, fc mean very little, with the exception of the carotenoid region, to determining if the light we are providing the plants meets its optimum daily UV/B-R/FR/IR spectral absorption requirements. Mfg's providing only lux, lumen, fc values have not given you any PAR intensity values and if they provide only CRI/Kelvin values they have not given you any PAR spectrum values to do a side by side lamp comparison.
For plant lighting you really want to know the number of photons striking a meter squared every second that measure between 400-700 nanometers. This 'moment in time' reading is the photosynthetic photon flux 'pff' reading for photon intensity within the 400-700nm plant action spectra.
When measuring pff over the course of a day it becomes photosynthetic photon flux density 'pffd' or how many photons within the PAR region contributed to the plants optimum photosynthetic absorption over the daily photoperiod. The Daily Light Integral 'DLI' for 'flowering' Cannabis is in the 20-25 Moles per day range. Lamps should ideally achieve these levels without Mole oversaturation or wasting too much energy (ie heat) above PAR (ie 1000watt HPS) to achieve optimum DLI.
Another thing to remember is that we see within the 500-600 nm spectrum so photons within the 400 -700 nm wavelength regions need to be weighted for plant spectra not visible. When using a quantum meter the readings will be in uMoles that uses an algorithm to lower the photon values in the 500-600 nm visible regions and apply uMoles (intensity as measured in the number of photons within PAR that are striking the sensor surface) to the plants UV/B and R/FR/IR regions where photosynthetic action spectra is most necessary. It is for these reasons that a better measurement, still not perfect, of lamp performance would be the manufacturers stating the pff/w rating of their lamps so the gardener would know what to expect within the PAR regions
The physics of light can be difficult to understand. Adding to the complexity is that plant lighting requires an understanding of plant photobiology and a completely different way of measuring that light compared to general area lighting. For years manufacturers have relied on those complexities and a myriad of competing technologies to promote some special feature of their lamps. What is really a pisser is how often these latest and greatest technologies have relied on design obsolence (ie lamp change outs especially for the indoor gardener) and how these 'improvements' never result in lower lamp prices. hmmmmmm???
Hosebomber
New Member
I don't want to copy and paste the post that I just completed so I'll simply link it.
Lumens Vs Color Temp?
Long story short, you have very few facts in that statement and a lot of misunderstandings.
I see you edited your above post so I will do the same. You obviously only looked at the pictures and got confused. The top picture is only showing you how a wavelength is measured. not a cutout of the picture below that is showing the visible wavelengths. For a more clear statement (straight from the link below the pictures).
"If you remember that visible light covers the range of wavelengths from 400 to 700 nm, then you can see here that sunlight includes waves that are ultraviolet (280 to 400 nm) and waves that are infrared (greater than 700 nm)."
Lumens Vs Color Temp?
Long story short, you have very few facts in that statement and a lot of misunderstandings.
I see you edited your above post so I will do the same. You obviously only looked at the pictures and got confused. The top picture is only showing you how a wavelength is measured. not a cutout of the picture below that is showing the visible wavelengths. For a more clear statement (straight from the link below the pictures).
"If you remember that visible light covers the range of wavelengths from 400 to 700 nm, then you can see here that sunlight includes waves that are ultraviolet (280 to 400 nm) and waves that are infrared (greater than 700 nm)."
Lumens are for Humans as we see colors best in the 520 - 610 regions where very little chlorophyll absorption takes place. The regions to the left and right of these spectrums allow some small levels of visual acuity they are as limited to the same degree plant's absorb a small percentage of those wavelengths in the regions in which we see. I favor broad spectrum lamps that allow a natural photomorphogenesis as the plant's photoperiod is changed. The whole thing about switching lamps based in Kelvin is a longstanding marketing gimmick to sell more lamps. Low kelvin value lamps still are weighted to UV more so than red.
Correct me if I'm wrong here but it seems to me that your asserting growers would be okay selecting their grow lamps in Kelvin values and not referring to spectral distribution graphs.
Correct me if I'm wrong here but it seems to me that your asserting growers would be okay selecting their grow lamps in Kelvin values and not referring to spectral distribution graphs.
Hosebomber
New Member
That is not what I'm saying at all. Getting all of the information about a product that you can makes you an informed educated consumer. Never take anything a company (or person for that matter) tells you at face value. The lighting industry ( incandescent, CFL, Tube, and HID) as a whole is rather mature and has set standards that they test at. LED producers do as well but that does not apply to panel/grow light producers.
On a technical aspect, Humans see (normal humans without optical problems) from roughly 380nm to 740nm. Nearly all humans see 400-700nm. The suns peak wavelength is nominally measured at 502nm. Low Kelvin values are skewed more to red than UV. THe higher the number the more blue hue they contain. Color temperature - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Does a pretty good job of explaining this concept. It's not really a gimmick or marketing ploy to change the light. It is more, a set standard of measurement used by an industry and growers trying to mimic seasonal change based off of that set industry standard.
On a technical aspect, Humans see (normal humans without optical problems) from roughly 380nm to 740nm. Nearly all humans see 400-700nm. The suns peak wavelength is nominally measured at 502nm. Low Kelvin values are skewed more to red than UV. THe higher the number the more blue hue they contain. Color temperature - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Does a pretty good job of explaining this concept. It's not really a gimmick or marketing ploy to change the light. It is more, a set standard of measurement used by an industry and growers trying to mimic seasonal change based off of that set industry standard.
