LED Aeroponic Organic Perpetual

csudh420

New Member
Hey all my stoney friends. My first thread, wow. Here's the list of goodies for my grow:
silverhut tents: two 4x4's and one 3x3
Lights: One 318watt led from Cammie at hydro-logic as well as five 15w 660nm led spotlights from her and two 48" T5 strips in one 4x4 tent. One 126watt led and two 48" T5 strips in 3x3 tent. One 126watt led and three 24" flourescent strips in tent 4x4. All led's are from Cammie.
Nutes: Advanced Nutrients organic line, iguana grow and bloom, F1, H2, liquid carbo load, sensizym, organics b, piranha, turantula and voodoo juice. Liquid light is also being used.
Hydro system: modified homemade aerosprings.

The tents

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Blue Widow, L.A. Confidential and Hashplant feminized seedlings from attitude in 4x4 Veg tent

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Ice, GC Godbud, Greencrack, Jack the Ripper and Strwberry Cough Clones I bought from our local dispensary in 4x4 final flower tent

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Extra Jack the Rippers in the baby tub in 3x3 transition tent

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Thanks and I'm using the AN organic line, the whole thing and liquid light with penetrator from dutch masters. With these nutes, a little goes a long way. When I first pour this stuff, with ro water, the ph goes crazy for about 5-6 days, then it stays at about 5.8, and the ppm increases to desired number. Leaves turn but growth rates, especially undergrowth, is good. The rep told me that with this line up the plants will uptake from 4.0 to 8.0 so I didn't ever need to worry about ph, and he was correct. I also run it for at least three weeks and dont bother brewing it either. I have many more observations on its interactions with the environment and the plants that I shall share if anybody wishes.

I took the aerospring design and created an extra 14" to the roots hang zone by taking a tub and placing it upside down upon the bottom tub and cut the holes iton the bottom of the top tub. The plumbing is double layered with six clone emmiters, they are the only that work with these nutes. The tub holds ten gallons but I could pour up to fifteen. We will expand to a 55 gallon external sump when they begin to really drink. Temperature must never go under 70 degrees. I also have two airstones in the sump. This system weeds out the women from the girls.
 
Thanks and I'm using the AN organic line, the whole thing and liquid light with penetrator from dutch masters. With these nutes, a little goes a long way. When I first pour this stuff, with ro water, the ph goes crazy for about 5-6 days, then it stays at about 5.8, and the ppm increases to desired number. Leaves turn but growth rates, especially undergrowth, is good. The rep told me that with this line up the plants will uptake from 4.0 to 8.0 so I didn't ever need to worry about ph, and he was correct. I also run it for at least three weeks and dont bother brewing it either. I have many more observations on its interactions with the environment and the plants that I shall share if anybody wishes.

I took the aerospring design and created an extra 14" to the roots hang zone by taking a tub and placing it upside down upon the bottom tub and cut the holes iton the bottom of the top tub. The plumbing is double layered with six clone emmiters, they are the only that work with these nutes. The tub holds ten gallons but I could pour up to fifteen. We will expand to a 55 gallon external sump when they begin to really drink. Temperature must never go under 70 degrees. I also have two airstones in the sump. This system weeds out the women from the girls.

I've been using the Advanced Nutrients organics for a while now too, but i've actually never used the liquid light product before. does that work well with the nutes?

what changes have you seen when you added it?

ANd how exactly do you use it? always looking to make my grow better

:rollit:

this is a really great thread here - never used the aeroponic setup before, so this is totoally new to me
 
Lookin good man, you got a nice setup going. I want to get a veg room and flower room going. Is this your first run with the LEDs? If not how do you like them?

This is my first run with LED's and so far I really like them. You should not look at this kind of light in lumens, or light heat, but actually light radiation. LED's currently meet more of the criteria I require from a grow light than any HID and I shall explain this in detail as I progress.
 
Really interesting grow. I like the modified root reservoir.

Regarding your nutrients - changing only every 3 weeks and disregarding pH altogether (as it sounds like you did, more or less) goes against just about everything the industry has "taught" us. You said you'd be willing to elaborate - I'm willing to listen :)
 
I've been using the Advanced Nutrients organics for a while now too, but i've actually never used the liquid light product before. does that work well with the nutes?

what changes have you seen when you added it?

ANd how exactly do you use it? always looking to make my grow better

:rollit:

this is a really great thread here - never used the aeroponic setup before, so this is totoally new to me

Cammie, from hydro-grow, heavily suggested it and AN Organics. I add Penetrator to it, it is a great product and plays nicely with AN. After every application, Tues and Sat., all the leaves turn a darker shade of green. It is a carbohydrate that stimultes chlorophyl production during veg. I practice ingestion of sunleaves as a digestive treatment. The cellulose structure, heavy chlorophyl content, high vitamin (water and fat soluable) content makes it a food source equal to wheat grass, broccoli, spinach, fish oil and kelp all at the same time :smokin:

I'll explain more in detail and the foliar spray I switch to after flower as I disseminate.
 
Really interesting grow. I like the modified root reservoir.

Regarding your nutrients - changing only every 3 weeks and disregarding pH altogether (as it sounds like you did, more or less) goes against just about everything the industry has "taught" us. You said you'd be willing to elaborate - I'm willing to listen :)

I must say, I don't agree with this either and after much observation, the plants grow and uptake better at a PH range of 5.6 to 5.8, so I have been adjusting once or twice a day, especially for the little ones. I also have been going about 14-16 days on the sump and brew my nutes for 3-4 days before I pour it. The ppm takes a few days to grow to the desired ppm's, I then adjust as I observe the plants. The mix with tarantula, pirhana and vodoo acts very different as well but once all the mixes grow, the ph stays at about 5.8 until the next sump change. I wouldn't say I have these nutes down just yet but feeling better after every week.
 
Nice grow. Those CFLs will really help your LEDs hit those missing spectrum's. I could never do that to a pizza! I don't know if I would trust the dude at the hydro shop. I use AN's full line also and every 3 weeks is highly suspect. I would suggest changing it every 7-14 days. What I do is change it in stages. First week I use some rapid flowering nutes. Change the res @ week 2 allow it to go 14 days until next change. AN suggests using piranha, turantula and voodoo juice for the first 3 weeks of bloom. Then change it on week 4 again @ 6, 7, 8 and 9. This is for a 9 week strain following ANs calculator and adding a few enhancers. I would never let the res go 3 weeks between changes.
 
Some observations on this led...
After starting a variety of clones and seedlings, darker green plants do better under this type of light and they tend to have death names, such as Jack the Ripper, LA Confidential, Black widow, ICE but bubba and super bud do well also. Perhaps some plants have a evolved a lighter shade of chlorophyl to adapt to the lower light spike of hps.
These led's contain a natural light spectrum with most of the light in the higher reds (about 70%) so depper into the canapy the light that I lose will be the mostly the other 30%. The cfl's hung low and angled fills in that missing spectrum on the outer canopy as well as the depper middle canapy. I try to think of my canopy in thirds and develope buds equal in size throughout the grow area. Cammie created special 15w 660nm spotlights. They contain a circular array of 9, 1w led's with three 2w led's in the middle. The fact that I can drop them very close should add size and weight to the outer canopy flowers. The main light source must be the most powerful though, at least by 50%, so to popen and pull the plant apart for increase light delivery and flower size.
 
Update on this grow as of today and some thoughts...

Lights- Since studying Shawn Rauben's study on led light and 24hr growing, as well as huge gobs of help from Dog, I discovered I was a few items from having a 24hr system. Since then I have acquired and am in the process of adding 3 digital timers and two incandescent black lights 75w.
According to Rauben, using 660nm light as a pure light source will result in a condition he termed hyperchlorophyllic anemia resulting in stunted flowers. He and his team created a growing system to combat this condition, known as "Rauber's syndrome", using all 24hrs of the day.
They determined that with the onset of having pure light sources to grow with (led's), each spectrum reacted to each plant's chemo reactions in a different time phase and with leaf shading, as well as full spectrum led panels- my added two cents, Rauben believed his sydrome, and others, had a variety of adverse effects to overall quality and weight per kilowatt.
He set forth to find the time patters for each light spectrum, create a constant and cure his syndrome,which in my opinion will be his greatest legacies.
 
Use of PAL and PAD...
PAL (photosynthetic alternative lighting) refers to the blue spectrums and there is a time phase constant in Rauben's PAD manual for these. These spectrums excite certain parts of chlophyll that basically informs the plant it is day and tells it to form roots, stems and photosynthesis.
PAD (photosynthetic altenative darkness) refers to spectrums above, if I'm correct) 520nm. These spectrums have time phase constants, set by Rauben, and do not excite any of the parts of the chlorophyll that tell the plant it is day thus photosynthesis occurs at these times just as in PAL. These spectrums tell the plant to form (660nm) bigger flowers, more resin, (730nm) trichomes, smell and to speed up flowering.
Using Rauben's time phase constants, and lotz o fun math, one can grow 24hrs a day, all the while having photosynthesis of some sort or another, cure hyperchlorillic anemia, increase overall weight per kilowatt and increase overall quality.
 
Ok, until I get the PAD system up I have begun to cycle my 75w of 660nm just an hour in the morning and an hour before night. I have been at it for 2-3 days on both gardens and have seen the difference immediately. Flowers instantly began to grow again. I did ramp up ppm a little fast to 1650 and burned the leaves a bit ( I kinda flipped out) but they have cleaned up quite a bit and really showed a profound growth difference. Ph is still going bananas, perhaps the extra root suspension makes them more apt to take on more syndromes of Rauben's Disease and of coarse supplementing with 660nm incorrectly (time phased the flowers=some flowers ran on more than the SID model).
 
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