Nutrient burn

JOINTER65

Active Member
Is this nute burn or something else
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nute burn usually burns the very tips of the leaves at its low end, and that has not happened here. This looks more like a magnesium deficiency to me. Apply a calmag supplement at its highest recommended amount and this will stop spreading. The damage showing now will always be there... the goal is to stop it.
Thanks for the info. I’ll try that. Another person suggested using just water for the next couple waterings and start over with nutes . BTW I have used your watering regimens for my last 3 grows and it works out great for me and the girls.
just FYI I am a retired MLT(medical lab technologist)
 
Thanks for the info. I’ll try that.another person suggested using just water fir the next couple waterings. BTW I have used your watering regimens for my past two grows. It works out great fir me and the girls. FYI I am a retired MLT (medical lab technologist)
 
Mmm very border line at the end of day depending on what side of the fence ya like to lean upon ?

But the pic's show a very sativa dominate strain & normally those fan leaf's of a sativa are a light green in colour, in the above pic's are dark green which may show signs of nitrogen toxicity show which in theory could be over feeding aka nutrient burn... or ya got a strain which requires a lighter feeding regime !
 
Mmm very border line at the end of day depending on what side of the fence ya like to lean upon ?

But the pic's show a very sativa dominate strain & normally those fan leaf's of a sativa are a light green in colour, in the above pic's are dark green which may show signs of nitrogen toxicity show which in theory could be over feeding aka nutrient burn... or ya got a strain which requires a lighter feeding regime !
it is borderline as you say, and maybe too much N could be locking out Mg, but...
I see no consistent tip burns and I see no dramatic clawing, just a bit of a downturn. I do see the deep green so maybe it is a bit of that too... just on the borderline, but I don't believe that N tox is the cause of just this one symptom... there should be more if that is it.

Let's ask some more questions and try to get down the heart of this... we need to know more things about your grow. Since this is your third grow, I assumed you had most of this in check, and I can see that you are watering properly. Is this soil? What pH do you adjust to? What nutes are you giving and at what strength? Anything else non standard going on here?
 
Well, we as growers have our own interpretation by our own experience over the years but we may learn by others experience's.

Shared basis of knowledge & as gardener by trade I still learn from others, trade... stay open minded about the subject.
 
it is borderline as you say, and maybe too much N could be locking out Mg, but...
I see no consistent tip burns and I see no dramatic clawing, just a bit of a downturn. I do see the deep green so maybe it is a bit of that too... just on the borderline, but I don't believe that N tox is the cause of just this one symptom... there should be more if that is it.

Let's ask some more questions and try to get down the heart of this... we need to know more things about your grow. Since this is your third grow, I assumed you had most of this in check, and I can see that you are watering properly. Is this soil? What pH do you adjust to? What nutes are you giving and at what strength? Anything else non standard going on here?
Soil- FFOF
STRAIN- GSC
4” fiber pots
Nutes- FFBig bloom / FF Grow big 3 tsp each per gal of water
Started using nutes after 4 wks veg per mfg
Never used nutes before 1st time. Thought I’d try to increase yield.
Beginning wk 7 veg
CLW solar system 550 led lights (programmable)
Forgot to check pH
 
Forgot to check pH
This tells me another point we can make to help you fine tune this a bit. It sounds like you don't adjust the pH of your incoming fluids immediately before watering, or you would have been able to immediately give us the pH that you try to adjust your fluids to.

The soil pH is meaningless... I know what FFOF is set to and it is fine.

So, before you start adding a lot of stuff, like extra calmag, lets first get you adjusted correctly. Every incoming fluid that hits your soil should be reading 6.2-6.3. Be accurate.
 
This is also not true... the manufacturer recommends giving their nutes when they are seedlings. This implies that you are not following the easily downloadable FF Soil Feeding chart. More things we can fine tune. Trust that feeding chart.
I called Fox Farm , the person I talked to told me this. I have the chart on my wall
 
I’ll start using the chart. The person I talked to told me there is enough nutes in the soil to last for about 4 wks, hence the start nutes after 4wks
Think of nutes as FERTILIZER, not feed. Yes, there is enough Nitrogen and trace amounts of other things to easily get your plants by for 4 weeks. They will grow just fine.

Mine however will grow to 3 times the size of yours in that 4 weeks, because I FERTILIZE. I am not timid with my nutes... I garden like a BOSS, because that is what I am... I am the gardener.

If you choose to grow bigger plants than what would naturally occur with no problems in a good soil, you have to be bold. The scientists (not the person you talked to) designed the feeding chart to help brave gardeners who want to get the best out of their plants, and they have developed a well tested system that ramps up the nutes as the plant gets bigger and able to handle them. There are exceptions, but most plants can handle this program without any problems. Their feeding chart is figured on good watering practices, healthy plants and a standard 1000w HPS light and if you have anything close to being equivalent, your plants could handle what they suggest.
 
Think of nutes as FERTILIZER, not feed. Yes, there is enough Nitrogen and trace amounts of other things to easily get your plants by for 4 weeks. They will grow just fine.

Mine however will grow to 3 times the size of yours in that 4 weeks, because I FERTILIZE. I am not timid with my nutes... I garden like a BOSS, because that is what I am... I am the gardener.

If you choose to grow bigger plants than what would naturally occur with no problems in a good soil, you have to be bold. The scientists (not the person you talked to) designed the feeding chart to help brave gardeners who want to get the best out of their plants, and they have developed a well tested system that ramps up the nutes as the plant gets bigger and able to handle them. There are exceptions, but most plants can handle this program without any problems. Their feeding chart is figured on good watering practices, healthy plants and a standard 1000w HPS light and if you have anything close to being equivalent, your plants could handle what they suggest.
I’ll take your advice and go with the chart. For right now do I go with chart or do a couple waterings w/o nutes then start from beginning
 
The chart assumes you are doing a feed /water/ feed /water routine all through the grow. Soil naturally holds onto some of the nutes for the plant to use as it needs them, and the water only run inbetween each fertilizing, allows the nutes stored in the soil to reactivate and become available to the plant. This keeps your plant well fed, and it keeps the soil clean of excess nutes.
 
The chart assumes you are doing a feed /water/ feed /water routine all through the grow. Soil naturally holds onto some of the nutes for the plant to use as it needs them, and the water only run inbetween each fertilizing, allows the nutes stored in the soil to reactivate and become available to the plant. This keeps your plant well fed, and it keeps the soil clean of excess nutes.
I was doing feed each water. Other than pH, that’s the other part I messed up
 
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