Plant Question

[jandre2k3]

Heres the rest of link about GLR copy 'n' pasted.


How to reduce the cost of growing cannabis saving 30-50% on your electricty bill using the 12-1 lighting schedule.

The biggest innovator in the history of cannabis in my generation is Reinhard Delp. Not only did he invent and is the holder of the patent for ice water extraction, he has been building flower forcers since 1992. His new solar powered Sun-gate is the leader of the industry. He was the first to feminize seeds and sell them in Europe in the late 90’s. His process was done naturally, without the use of any chemicals.

save energy cannabis cultivation No one is more copied but seldom matched than Mr. Delp, who to me is the top grower of our generation. The first time he impressed me he showed me 2 plants, planted next to one another, 1 completely covered in powdery mildew, the other completely clean and beautiful. He was developing mildew and mold resistant genetics.

In the late 90’s Reinhard brought back the gas lantern routine that you find in any college grade horticulture book, and applied it to cannabis. Cannabis needs only 13 hours to stay in the vegetative growth stage. The 18-6 lighting schedule in vegetation, actually stress your plants, that never get that much light in one-day outdoors. Cannabis is an outdoor plant. Growing indoors you should copy how it grows outdoors. No Cannabis growing in Afghanistan gets 18 hours of light in growth pattern. Most strains today have some part Indica in their genetic pool. Even equatorial strains don’t get 18 hours of sun a day.

The 12-1 lighting schedule is as follows 12 hours lights on, 5.5 lights off, 1-hour lights on, 5.5 lights off, and repeat schedule. The 1 hour on in between off period fools the plants that stay in vegetative growth state! Your immediate savings are 5 hours in energy costs daily, as well as your bulbs and equipment lasting longer. But how do the plants react to this lighting schedule?

You see immediate growth response from your plants, they are happy from the added rest time. By day 14 the plants tripled in size. The plants are bushy with twice as many bud sites without topping or bending, In fact when you top and stretch your plants out, you get many more bud sites than you would have had under 18-6 using same procedure of topping and stretching plant, your growing bigger and better and faster.

12 - 1 light cycle gas lantern routine

So your saving 5 hours daily in energy costs, as well as your excellerated growth pattern which also saves you time and energy and equipment use.

In the flowering stage, never use 12-12, start your flowering period at 11 hours on 13 hours off. When your are growing outdoors each day you get less and less sun light, you should copy the way the sun acts naturally in your indoor grow. So first 2 weeks of flower you go 11 on 13 off, the next 2 weeks you go down to 10.5 on 13.5 off, next 2 weeks 10 on 14 off, next two weeks 9.5 on 14.5 off and the last weeks of flower you should be at 9 hours on and 15 hours off. You’ll get bigger and better buds by copying the way the sun light works on cannabis outdoors.

Cannabis is an outdoor plant and you should copy the way it grows outdoors indoors. The only thing that 18-6, and then 12-12 lighting schedule's do is make the energy companies rich as well as the people who sell lights and equipment, the more you use the more you spend. 12-1 lighting schedule is a more natural way to grow indoors and you well have the best results you have ever had and save as much as 50% in energy costs.

Sigh, most people, when faced with a long read tend to skim and assume... In order to fully understand what this author was TRYING to do but missed the mark, one must actually read the whole thing. Also, due to poor grammar, misuse of words, misspellings, and other grossly inaccurate statements, I doubt this is an actual professional, and therefore giving his impression of the full report. (I.E. "Growing indoors you should copy how it grows outdoors. No Cannabis growing in Afghanistan gets 18 hours of light in growth pattern." and "Even equatorial strains don’t get 18 hours of sun a day.") Where in the world does the sun rise for an hour at night? How is that "copying nature?" I wish the empirical data had been included in his blog post.

Credibility established, let's move on, shall we? Note the RED above. . . . . It states emphatically that GLR is for veg.

Then the bold Black is the END of GLR and moving on to the Flowering stage, which the author failed to properly identify as flowering under DIMINISHING LIGHT. Trust me, I did several hours of research on this, locally, and abroad. The GLR applies to VEGETATIVE only. One can never flower under GLR, the 1 hour of light destroys the flowering hormone that would otherwise build to a point that triggers the flowering stage. Please understand this.

EDIT: Also, "So first 2 weeks of flower you go 11 on 13 off, the next 2 weeks you go down to 10.5 on 13.5 off, next 2 weeks 10 on 14 off, next two weeks 9.5 on 14.5 off and the last weeks of flower you should be at 9 hours on and 15 hours off." is incorrect. One should apply 11 hours of light for the first two weeks, then, decrease by .5 hour EVERY WEEK, until 9 hours is reached, thus giving 16 hours of darkness for rest and for buildup of more of the hormone for flowering. This triggers a massive flower buildup during 9 hours of lights on, and then allows the plant 15 hours to recuperate.

Going down by .5 hour every TWO weeks, only allows to reach 9 hours of darkness AFTER 8 WEEKS OF FLOWERING. In other words, weeks 7 and 8 are at 9.5 hours of light...
EX.
week 1-2 = 11 hours
week 3-4 = 10.5
week 5-6 = 10
week 7-8 = 9.5
week 9-10 = 9

This is an incorrect light schedule as most plants are already finished by this time and the 9 hour "step" in the process would be missed by the vast majority of plants.

The correct flowering schedule should be every week, after the first two weeks.
week 1-2 = 11 hours
week 3 = 10.5
week 4 = 10
week 5 = 9.5
weeks 6-10 = 9

This allows for the last two weeks to take full advantage of the increased trigger to flower for the vast majority of plants.

 

[donpaul.p]

this is interesting, problem is actually comparing the results, my next grow im going to do side by side, its the only way im going to sort all this out, ill keep the plants small and compare them side by side, i will document this in a journal, wont be for a while and after ive cropped these plants ive got if any are fem, after that im going to start the trial, i need to know before i choose what method gives the best results over shorter period of time.

for instance is it quicker using sog method and putting the seeds or cuttings strait to flower or is it best to have less plants but longer veg, say 1ft of growth during veg then turn to flower, sog would be quicker but would it work out longer as i would be cropping it sooner so would need several grows to achieve what i would letting the plant grow over a foot, but then would this take longer than it would to do 2 sog methods, i gota look into this, i need to get some sort of setup going, but where i am in the world its not that easy and it all has to be low key, really low key,

 

[jandre2k3]

So to sum this all up:

GLR only applies to the 12-1 lighting schedule

For flowering GLR is replaced by Diminishing Light Schedule.

 

[donpaul.p]

right ok thanks, so 12-1 means lights off for 12 then off for 5.5 and on for 1 and off again for 5.5, ive got digital timers so this would be easy enough to set up, thanks for all the info, ive taken notes so i can give it all a try when i get the chance, i would try it with this grow but im really just not sure at the minute to whats best, i need to see the results myself and compare side by side and see the differences so any cuttings i take of these plants will be used to test these ideas

24-0 routine
glr routine
18-6 routine,

i know its gona cost more electric and lights but i only need to do this for one grow then i can use the best method from then on, its the only way im going to find out properly whats best and whats not, clearly if their isnt much difference in growth during veg and yield then the best method would be the one that uses less energy, how ever, if 24-0 produced more growth is that then working out as beneficial doe to power consumption. im going to have to monitor it all, i have got electric monitoring equipment that shows me the costs each appliance uses over a set time say a day a week or a month so could factor this into the test to see what costs are incurred during the grow

 

[jandre2k3]

for instance is it quicker using sog method and putting the seeds or cuttings strait to flower or is it best to have less plants but longer veg, say 1ft of growth during veg then turn to flower, sog would be quicker but would it work out longer as i would be cropping it sooner so would need several grows to achieve what i would letting the plant grow over a foot, but then would this take longer than it would to do 2 sog methods, i gota look into this, i need to get some sort of setup going, but where i am in the world its not that easy and it all has to be low key, really low key,

On this subject there is much debate. Personally, I veg cuttings for about a month to a month and a half before flipping to flower. In my observations, this allows them to root properly and get a good root system for fast growth. This also allows time to work up to the full flower nutes BEFORE They go into the flower box, this way it allows more time devoted to flowering and less to simple vegetative growth and nutrients.

I almost always have clones in the cloning tray. I put vegged clones in to flower and about a week or two later, after cleaning the tray, start a new set. When clone set a is finished, clone set b is ready for flower.

 

[jandre2k3]

right ok thanks, so 12-1 means lights off for 12 then off for 5.5 and on for 1 and off again for 5.5, ive got digital timers so this would be easy enough to set up, thanks for all the info, ive taken notes so i can give it all a try when i get the chance, i would try it with this grow but im really just not sure at the minute to whats best, i need to see the results myself and compare side by side and see the differences so any cuttings i take of these plants will be used to test these ideas

24-0 routine
glr routine
18-6 routine,

i know its gona cost more electric and lights but i only need to do this for one grow then i can use the best method from then on, its the only way im going to find out properly whats best and whats not, clearly if their isnt much difference in growth during veg and yield then the best method would be the one that uses less energy, how ever, if 24-0 produced more growth is that then working out as beneficial doe to power consumption. im going to have to monitor it all, i have got electric monitoring equipment that shows me the costs each appliance uses over a set time say a day a week or a month so could factor this into the test to see what costs are incurred during the grow

I know there are others that swear by 24/7(24/0), but it is not a lighting schedule I would recommend. There is no rest period at all for the plants during vegetative growth. How would you like to be kept awake for 6-8 week straight? You'd get stressed, right? I know this is a VERY LOOSE example, but it *IS* a living organism, and all living things must have a rest period for optimal health. A stressed plant leads to weakness and decreased resistance to pests/disease. But of course, you'll do your research and come to your own conclusions, just giving you food for thought.

 

[donpaul.p]

some people go strait to flower but i cant see how they get much back off the plant after, fair enough you cropping quicker but you would need a load of plants to give the same as one thats vegd for a while, i think id like mine about a foot high, but im thinking of low stress training to promote more growth from lower branches by training the plant around the pot, ive never done this before, im only thinking of this due to the amount ive heard about it increasing yield, id normally let the plant grow as it is, but as far as i can tell lst increases yeild, or wud i get the same results if i juts plaved lights all around the plant above,sides and below, but thinking about it, ill only have the main centre cola wont i, so lst should give me more main colas to bud with,

 

[donpaul.p]

thats how ive always thought of it, i always thought that when the plants in the dark all the goodness and nutes return to the roots and produces more root growth, to me this make sense, as when the lights first come on the plants can look a bit limp, but withing 20 or 30 min they pick back up, thats going back a good few years as this is the 1st grow ive done since about 8 or 9 years and im using totally different lights this time round, i just want to try for myslef and compare the results, the 3 different tests will show me exactly whats going on and whats best and i will make a journal on here when im doing it, to be honest i cant believe their is no videos out their of these experiments, its ok people arguing that their way is the best because they could be comparing it to plants that have had hardly any nutes or over nuted so you cant really compare, you need 3 clones or say 6 to get a broader idea and measure everything that goes in so all the plants under each schedule get exaclty the same, then i can compare the results and posting a journal on here will give others the chance to see whats best, but then you could argue that the results would be different under hid's or led's, so you cant really win, maybe it is just all prefrence for the grower, maybe it makes no difference to the plants, if 24-0 was bad and damaged the plants then growers wouldnt use that method would they, its to hard to tell without so sort of level test doing,

 

[jandre2k3]

some people go strait to flower but i cant see how they get much back off the plant after, fair enough you cropping quicker but you would need a load of plants to give the same as one thats vegd for a while, i think id like mine about a foot high, but im thinking of low stress training to promote more growth from lower branches by training the plant around the pot, ive never done this before, im only thinking of this due to the amount ive heard about it increasing yield, id normally let the plant grow as it is, but as far as i can tell lst increases yeild, or wud i get the same results if i juts plaved lights all around the plant above,sides and below, but thinking about it, ill only have the main centre cola wont i, so lst should give me more main colas to bud with,

The advantage of SOG over ScrOG is that although the cuttings are smaller, there are many more of them, and turn around is faster, than 1 plant spread under a screen. One can conceivably turn 2 SOG's in the time it takes 1 seed to germinate, and that plant to get 1 to 1.5 feet tall, AND 1 more when it is time to flower. Basically a 3:1 vs. Seed to ScrOG. The SqFt don't change and your light is only going to produce so much. Also using CFL's I would suggest the SOG method as there is much less canopy penetration through a large plant. This would lead to a few big buds on the big plant and a lot of popcorn underneath. With the SOG, you'd have many plants, spread over the entire area and would need less penetration to reach the whole of each plant, giving you a better bud/plant ratio.

I would do this:

Since you have three plants already, take some cuttings at 2 feet of height to root. Label them well, and let them take root. While this is happening, put your larger plants in to flower. This makes a smooth transition to SOG and gives you some smoke in the mean time. If you wish, reserve one of the mothers back for donations later, or take three cuttings very early and keep them in veg, away from the clones and separate from the three going into flower.

Recap:
A) 3 Original
B) 3 clones in reserve
C) Multiple clones to choose the best of the lot for SOG.

Place 3 Original into flower reserving back the 3 other clones (these will be your perpetual mothers) which will have a long head start on the other clones headed for the first SOG. When the 3 Original finish, clean your flowering area, and set up something to raise clones off the floor about 1 foot. Then, choose the best of the Multiple Clones to fill the floor of your space and toss the rest. They're not good enough now, they will not be good enough later.

|:Clean Cloning Tray and area. Take more clones from the three in reserve to fill your cloning space. Allow them to veg for the entire time your SOG is in flower, and keep them well groomed. When the flower of SOG is done, clean the flower space, and reset with the best from the clone set, toss the rest, for an immediate SOG turn around.:|

repeat.

Note: If it is your budget in the future, Hydrofarm has 2ft, 1 tube, T5HO for 25 bucks (any local hydro store has them) for fixture and tube. You'd only need two or three (at 24w) for that space to get average results from an SOG. The sure beats the heat output from CFL's, gives more lumens, and gives more even lighting than the "Hot Spots" that CFL's are riddled with. It might cost less for fixtures/wiring/bulbs, and in the long run will cost you less in energy costs than 6-8 30w CFL's

 

[jandre2k3]

thats how ive always thought of it, i always thought that when the plants in the dark all the goodness and nutes return to the roots and produces more root growth, to me this make sense, as when the lights first come on the plants can look a bit limp, but withing 20 or 30 min they pick back up, thats going back a good few years as this is the 1st grow ive done since about 8 or 9 years and im using totally different lights this time round, i just want to try for myslef and compare the results, the 3 different tests will show me exactly whats going on and whats best and i will make a journal on here when im doing it, to be honest i cant believe their is no videos out their of these experiments, its ok people arguing that their way is the best because they could be comparing it to plants that have had hardly any nutes or over nuted so you cant really compare, you need 3 clones or say 6 to get a broader idea and measure everything that goes in so all the plants under each schedule get exaclty the same, then i can compare the results and posting a journal on here will give others the chance to see whats best, but then you could argue that the results would be different under hid's or led's, so you cant really win, maybe it is just all prefrence for the grower, maybe it makes no difference to the plants, if 24-0 was bad and damaged the plants then growers wouldnt use that method would they, its to hard to tell without so sort of level test doing,

DING! DING! DING!! We have a WINNER!!

 

[donpaul.p]

thanks for the info, its a lot to think about, but i think over time im going to give all methods a go, just to see the returns and time scale involved from start to finish, i also had a look in my fishtank and this has got a 2ft bulb in it, on the bulb it says grow bulb, when its lit it looks like the same color as the daylight cfl's and it runs cold when its on, im wondering if i could put that in the room n get my fish another light, its not marked as fish lights its marked as a grow light, would this be suitable,

also i do want to try sog, ill need to take a load of cuttings but if the turn around time is a lot quicker then ill go with that method, cuz i could keep the clones in seperat place and keep them vegin while i flower the other plants, i think if i could get it sorted so i had some plants in flower, and 2 lots in veg, then that way i should have constant returns, so i could keep the taller cuttings and the shorter cuttings in seperate grow space then when plants have flowered i could move the biggest cuttings into the flower room and then take more cuttings of the one now in flower and put them at the ready to move alont the production line,

 

[donpaul.p]

First CFL Grow Using 30 Watt CFLs

that link should take you to my journal, i have pics to upload but will do this in morning