PPM in soil question?

[TorturedSoul]

[QUOTE="Fuzzy Duck, post: 4142894, member: 136654"Organic based nutrients are difficult to get E.C - electrical conductivity & PPM - parts per million readings from due to the nature of organic based nutrients.[/quote]

In theory, you could do it the crap-factory (wastewater treatment plant) way: Take a sample, flash-dry it, then weigh the reservoir on a really accurate scale (ten-thousandth of a gram or better, lol). But the scale is expensive, and at that level you have to worry about air currents and vibrations, so you'd probably want to place the scale in a glass case and set it on a really heavy granite table, like they do at the municipal facility.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

[QUOTE="Fuzzy Duck, post: 4142894, member: 136654"Organic based nutrients are difficult to get E.C - electrical conductivity & PPM - parts per million readings from due to the nature of organic based nutrients.

In theory, you could do it the crap-factory (wastewater treatment plant) way: Take a sample, flash-dry it, then weigh the reservoir on a really accurate scale (ten-thousandth of a gram or better, lol). But the scale is expensive, and at that level you have to worry about air currents and vibrations, so you'd probably want to place the scale in a glass case and set it on a really heavy granite table, like they do at the municipal facility.[/QUOTE]

Lolz Keep It Simple

 

[Papageno]

Subcool is what I use and I add stuff. My journal is how to grow for cheap on that stuff plus tea. After it gets going you just add water and all the stuff is constantly breaking down into the proper balance for you constantly. You dont need to add it as it is being made locally for you as it needs it at the rate it wants it.

Subcool is my journal and that plant above...1 week in veg and water only very long flowering sativa. Only water and since it is a clone with no roots you water once a week. No fuss no muss at all period.

I made the journal for some people who can't get expensive stuff. Anyone can get superior yields on organics locally anywhere. Make a compost pile and teas.
.
.
.

What I was trying to point out originally are 2 things.

1) in a side by side take either 2 things you've mastered or vary one thing. Until you are a pro dont vary multiple things, you will lose control and convince yourself things matter that do not. I suspect wholesale organic against hydro is something an organic expert must do.

2) organics is not adding organic nutes. If you want to do it take the time and make a good yield natural soil that works first.

Then play away...but don't cook up hog wash science.

 

[Papageno]

Also pH monitoring is irrelevant in a good compost. The bacteria only thrive in good conditions which they make. It is hard to screw up. But the pH problems are gone and you can dump in unfiltered tap water from most places in a good compost. Your bacteria will win.

 

[Slowpuffer]

I have a soil ph meter and lower my feed with organic ph down As I have really high alkaline water but never bothered with e.c as I run organic, iv ran a few coco grows where I have used an e.c meter (non organic) but where there is a cross over with soil and "hydro nutes" is it still needed i wonder.

Yeh there is plenty on botanicare, just wondered if it would kick start a convo with someone using it. I suppose it's just one of them where you have to bite the bullet and choose a feed on what you think best and try for your self.

I can testify that botanicare coco coir in brick form is 'by far' the best I know of.

 

[Slowpuffer]

Subcool is what I use and I add stuff. My journal is how to grow for cheap on that stuff plus tea. After it gets going you just add water and all the stuff is constantly breaking down into the proper balance for you constantly. You dont need to add it as it is being made locally for you as it needs it at the rate it wants it.

Subcool is my journal and that plant above...1 week in veg and water only very long flowering sativa. Only water and since it is a clone with no roots you water once a week. No fuss no muss at all period.

I made the journal for some people who can't get expensive stuff. Anyone can get superior yields on organics locally anywhere. Make a compost pile and teas.
.
.
.

What I was trying to point out originally are 2 things.

1) in a side by side take either 2 things you've mastered or vary one thing. Until you are a pro dont vary multiple things, you will lose control and convince yourself things matter that do not. I suspect wholesale organic against hydro is something an organic expert must do.

2) organics is not adding organic nutes. If you want to do it take the time and make a good yield natural soil that works first.

Then play away...but don't cook up hog wash science.

And I choose to not wait, so I'm using 'Coast of Maine stonington blend super soil' with phed tap water only.

 

[Slowpuffer]

Well I have done a ton of side by sides. I can tell you it is really a lot about are you doing them both justice running two different programs at the same time. Sometimes that means watering differently.

In honesty Recycled Organic growing is a process that gets better with each harvest and gets very rich over time. It takes around 3 harvests to hit a top line organic soil. Then you can run your side by side.

And don't be afraid as a basic organic (gen 1) beats most grows when done well. The thing with organic is it becomes autopilot and carefree once it is on its way.

 

[Slowpuffer]

Villageidiot, wondering if you would know if it's the same using commercial bagged super soil. I'm using the 'Coast of Maine stonington blend', does it get better with use ? I just recently started using it, and wondering if it's at it's peak at moment of opening the bag ( I hope. Ha !!) or after 3 uses ? 1st. time hearing this theory ?

 

[Papageno]

It is a bit more complicated than that...actually much more complicated but let me break it down for ya. There are a few ways to do it. First I will explain and then I will tell ya how to cheat. All of this is old info explained on here in many places. I did an entire How To journal on exactly this method so you can grow anywhere.

There are many types of compost but look this up... a guy who goes by Subcool did the math and made a compost blend perfect for cannabis. In it as a base component you can use your stuff or cheaper stuff. Your choice.

Cannabis like all plants uses a few basic nutes and a handful of micro nutes. All that is in his blend. The secret is natural compost is what plants evolved to like..."it"s what plants crave." So if you put in the right base components and get it decomposing you will have a natural self sustaining even constant release natural organic nute process which can not be beat. It happens at the rate the plant wants it to.

Compost takes 6 months...it doesn't take 6 months only 3 to get hot, but some of the ingredients take 6 months to start to break down. I could go on about all of it but there is tons even on this web site about it. You have no idea how much has been studied and written about compost.

So you either make a pile or you do cheater runs and build up. Since it takes 6 months typically you don't get your first good run until the 3rd.

You start with a cheater run while making a pile. Then at harvest you throw the soil with roots and all trim as you go along into the pile. Once the pile is hot trim doesn't last long it disappears in there.

At your second run you have 4 month compost and it will work. On your third run you have recycled 8 to 9 month compost that is black and does all the work for you.

You want space for 2 bins inside and it doesn't stink that bad. Read my journal.

This is a clone from gen 2 that ran 1 week in soil under veg then bloomed ...a stick with 3 leaves ...and got this on just water.

full18

• Papageno
• Jun 27, 2016

perspective_

• Papageno
• Jun 27, 2016

mids2

• Papageno
• Jun 27, 2016

Documented in the journal entirely how to do it. There is a lot I am skipping here.

You make a pile and keep adding to it as you go and pull off it as you go. Each plant needs mostly fresh soil and only some compost as a little goes a long ways. It is very hot.

Read about Subcools compost. Videos on youtube. Best thing ever.

 

[Papageno]

This is not theory. This is called Recycled Organic Lving Soil or ROLS. Do some research. This website has areas dedicated to this just look here.

 

[Papageno]

Oh yeah forgot ...the how you cheat part....

So your first run it is not composting yet and there are many ingredients not even worth adding as it is a waste. But you can put in directly bought from the store compost and reinvigorate it. Or just use chemicals...it really doesn't matter but it is better to start learning to make it all yourself sooner rather than later and it is fun.

The base for quick organic (and I know this sounds simple but I'd spent years doin gbc side by sides) 1/3 perlite, good potting soil and steer manure. You will have minor tip burn and need nothing until bloom. You can and should add compost tea every few weeks to reinvigorate the compost and in bloom you can add bloom ingredients to the compost tea.

So you start with 1/3 , 1/3, 1/3 and compost tea every 2 weeks (and you shouldn't need to at all in the beginning ) and then take the soil at harvest and throw it in the compost pile.

Then second round you have almost hot compost that you run subcool style and tea it up as you want to change things.

I water once a week and never have to do any work.