SecretGardner - Terra Professional Plus - Super Lemon Haze - 1st Grow -2014

Here is the last picture I could not post with the others.

( 25a )

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Thank you.
 
I think it looks great! Looks like you will needing to tie up some of those colas soon and like was said before some strains just do that with the leaves as they mature in bloom I think.. If it get worse or continues up the stalk I would be concerned but it looks good to me right now......:circle-of-love:

Hello Dennise
How are you doing? it is good to hear from you, hope life is treating you well. I have just posted much better pictures. when you say tie up what do you mean ? something like a steak in the pot sort of thing.
 
Your plants with the downward curled leaves either have heat stress or are receiving too high of nitrogen in flowering. I would either reduce the heat in your grow area or reduce the amount of nitrogen you are feeding in flowering. You want 70°-90° Fahrenheit and 50%-70% humidity for vegetative growth and 30%-50% humidity in flowering.
 
Your plants with the downward curled leaves either have heat stress or are receiving too high of nitrogen in flowering. I would either reduce the heat in your grow area or reduce the amount of nitrogen you are feeding in flowering. You want 70°-90° Fahrenheit and 50%-70% humidity for vegetative growth and 30%-50% humidity in flowering.

Hello K.J.C I do hope your grow is going well it is a shame that I am not able to return great advice to you!.

I have had a problem with my humidity for a while now. And as far as I understand it the hotter it is the lower the humidity and the colder it is the higher the humidity is this correct ?.

When I water the plants, I start out with 40ltrs and when I finish I end up with 10ltrs ( run off ) so 30ltrs is in my grow room. after my first few hours of watering my temp will be around the 77f and humidity will be around 61% I can not seem to do any better than this. the next day before the lights go out I check the stats again and the humidity is down to 51%, I will check tonight when lights come back on to see what it is and post up the stats so you may see.

To remove the humidity from the room is it a good extraction that does this ? as I feel I will need to upgrade my extraction ( Maybe )

I have just opened up my grow room as it is switch on time. so during the 12 hr period of lights off upon lights switching on my stats are as follows : 68.5f / 70% humidity . and I have another one the other side of the room and that reads 20.4c / 67% humidity now obviously due to the lights being out for 12hrs the humidity would be higher, for a comparison I will post up another reading just before the lights switch off in 12 hrs time. I am expecting the humidity to be around 51 %

I also would like to ask everybody in my grow room I have two digital thermometer - hygrometer and I place one at each end of my room and have one reading in ( f ) and one reading in ( c ) my question is this, where is the best area to place to these in my grow room? at the moment they are at the base of the pots on the plinth. which is about 2" of the floor.

So should they stay where they are ~ on the plinth ?

or be moved higher, but please as I am still learning could you please explain why they would be better where ever you have said place them as I must learn and am hungry for quality information.

I also have bought some bamboo canes (thin) as I would like to support my plants as with the height and weight they are now they are very wobbly. and no doubt get worse, so my question is will it do any harm to push the cane into the bottom of the pot knowing it will pierce, break or snap some roots so will it be OK to use the canes tomorrow night ( watering night )

Thank you for your comment and help K.J.C
 
Hello K.J.C I do hope your grow is going well it is a shame that I am not able to return great advice to you!.

I have had a problem with my humidity for a while now. And as far as I understand it the hotter it is the lower the humidity and the colder it is the higher the humidity is this correct ?.

When I water the plants, I start out with 40ltrs and when I finish I end up with 10ltrs ( run off ) so 30ltrs is in my grow room. after my first few hours of watering my temp will be around the 77f and humidity will be around 61% I can not seem to do any better than this. the next day before the lights go out I check the stats again and the humidity is down to 51%, I will check tonight when lights come back on to see what it is and post up the stats so you may see.

To remove the humidity from the room is it a good extraction that does this ? as I feel I will need to upgrade my extraction ( Maybe )

I have just opened up my grow room as it is switch on time. so during the 12 hr period of lights off upon lights switching on my stats are as follows : 68.5f / 70% humidity . and I have another one the other side of the room and that reads 20.4c / 67% humidity now obviously due to the lights being out for 12hrs the humidity would be higher, for a comparison I will post up another reading just before the lights switch off in 12 hrs time. I am expecting the humidity to be around 51 %

I also would like to ask everybody in my grow room I have two digital thermometer - hygrometer and I place one at each end of my room and have one reading in ( f ) and one reading in ( c ) my question is this, where is the best area to place to these in my grow room? at the moment they are at the base of the pots on the plinth. which is about 2" of the floor.

So should they stay where they are ~ on the plinth ?

or be moved higher, but please as I am still learning could you please explain why they would be better where ever you have said place them as I must learn and am hungry for quality information.

I also have bought some bamboo canes (thin) as I would like to support my plants as with the height and weight they are now they are very wobbly. and no doubt get worse, so my question is will it do any harm to push the cane into the bottom of the pot knowing it will pierce, break or snap some roots so will it be OK to use the canes tomorrow night ( watering night )

Thank you for your comment and help K.J.C

Yes, usually when air is cooler it is more dense and higher in humidity versus the same air at a warmer temperature would be less dense and have lower humidity.

I would place your temperature and humidity meters either midway in your grow area to sample the average temperature and humidity in your grow area or place one at plant height to see what condition the top of the plants are receiving.

I have used bamboo canes to support my plants without issue.

You may either have to use a dehumidifier in your grow area or the are where your air intake is from to reduce the humidity to acceptable levels or increase the amount airflow through your grow area so that the humidity is reduced to ambient levels.
 
I would like you all to look at the pictures that I have posted tonight please and give me your best opinion's to the questions I have listed below. I do apologise for more than 1 question asked. Thank you everyone for all your help.

1: I am aware I will need to flush before harvest. is this with just plain water PH balanced ?

2: As this is a 8 - 10 week flowering period plant, and these plants are now at 7 weeks. do you know when I will need to start to flush my plants ??

3: I do realise that my plants are not ready yet but in based on your experience how long do you think these plants have left before harvest?

4; Are there any very good close up pictures on this forum as to what I do need to look for coming up to harvest ?


All plants are at 7 weeks flowering

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I would like you all to look at the pictures that I have posted tonight please and give me your best opinion's to the questions I have listed below. I do apologise for more than 1 question asked. Thank you everyone for all your help.

1: I am aware I will need to flush before harvest. is this with just plain water PH balanced ?

2: As this is a 8 - 10 week flowering period plant, and these plants are now at 7 weeks. do you know when I will need to start to flush my plants ??

3: I do realise that my plants are not ready yet but in based on your experience how long do you think these plants have left before harvest?

4; Are there any very good close up pictures on this forum as to what I do need to look for coming up to harvest ?

1) You can either use pH adjusted water or pH adjusted water and a flushing agent for your harvest flush. I will include a recipe for A home made Clearex flushing solution.

2) I harvest by trichome maturity. You need a 30x jewelers loupe to see the trichomes and judge when to harvest. Most people harvest from 5%-30% amber trichomes. Harvest at 5%-15% amber trichomes for a "head high" energetic effect and harvest at 30%-50% amber trichomes for a "body stone" sedative effect strain dependent. I would wait until you see amber trichomes then when the trichomes are close to your preference start your harvest flush for 7-10 days.

3) I would estimate 3 more weeks or longer till your harvest. I only see 2 photographs with plants that I would consider harvesting. A crude way of determining when to harvest is to harvest when 85% of the white pistils have withered to a red/orange colour.

4) You can check my completed journals for detailed and documented harvest photographs

KingJohnC's 400 Watt LA Confidential Seed Cabinet Soil Indoor Grow Journal

KingJohnC's Brainstorm Haze Soil Indoor Grow Journal

When I harvest I use disposable vinyl gloves and when I harvest a plant I start by cutting the branches off 1 by 1. I take the branch and first strip off all the fan leaves. I then use a pair of Fiskars Micro Tip Pruning scissors and trim all the sugar leaves flush with the bud. I then take the trimmed branches and place them in my drying rack to dry for 5-7 days or until the buds just break off the stems. I then trim off the buds from the stems and place the buds into storage containers. I take the buds out of the storage containers and place into a large bowl for 10 minutes per day for 10 days.

My drying rack

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Fiskars Softouch Micro-Tip Pruning Snip recommended by the arthritis society, They come with a lifetime replacement warranty. One of the handles broke on my last pair, I used the warranty claim on the website and Fiskars replaced them at no cost.

https://www2.fiskars.com Titanium Micro Tip Easy Action Scissors No.5


drying racks

2' Dry Rack w/ Zipper Openings - perfectgardens



I mixed up the Clearex Flushing Solution suggested by Goldengoose7

in a large pot I combined:
1 gallon of distilled water
240 grams of Dextrose (Used for Beer Making)
120 grams of Sucrose (White Table Sugar)
3 grams Sodium Benzoate (as a preservative)
10 drops of Green Food Colouring

the Clearex Flushing Solution was allowed to cool and returned to the 1 gallon container.

I will use 15 millilitres per gallon of this Clearex Flushing Solution during my final flushing.


Dextrose

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Sucrose

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Sodium Benzoate

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the final Clearex Flushing Solution

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Your buds are beginning to Foxtail, Foxtailing is where buds produce new white pistils in small clusters that project from the buds. Causes of Foxtailing are Genetics, extended flowering and high heat in the grow area.
 
Your buds are beginning to Foxtail, Foxtailing is where buds produce new white pistils in small clusters that project from the buds. Causes of Foxtailing are Genetics, extended flowering and high heat in the grow area.

Hello K.J.C thank you so much for replying, it was not what I thought, I thought I had a light leak somewhere. if I may ask a few more questions so I know a route to take.

So I have Foxtailing, how do I cure / correct this ??

Extended Flowering ... does this mean I have gone past my harvest date ? As I have been looking for my amber Tric's and they have always been clear ! ?



High Heat .... Now I do think this might be it. I have been struggling so much with high heat and can not seem to remove it, and do not know what to do for the best, just to re-cap I am growing in a room that is 9 feet x 8 feet x 7 feet high. I have 3 600w hps ( non air cooled ) the center light has been turned down to 400w, lights in there and the temps are constantly around the 30 c and slightly higher, mark. I have one extractor fan running via a filter, and it seems to remove no heat at all. yesterday I cut a hole in the wall and installed an 16 " extractor and that just dumps it hot air directly into my home. I have windows open and it removes quite quickly, so that is two extractors and it still does not remove the heat, so I am lost for ideas,

As this was my 9th week of flowering how much has this put me back ?

Also I need to get them back on track so I assume I need to deal with the heat some how, what temps would be OK to settle for. at this moment in time 75 would be an impossible target to hit, unless I removed the wall.

Again thank you so much for this help. I hope I have not done to much damage.
 
Hello.
If I have been given the right information, I think I just carry on as normal. But would like a more experienced grower to confirm this, and how much it will delay me.

Many thanks

:thumb:

I love a plant that does that! Not all plants are healthy enough at the finish to put on that final surge. Every new calyx it grows at this stage will be densely packed with new sparkling trichs. Let 'er ride! Give it another ten days or so and it should stall again - then chop.

I ran a couple SLHs and loved 'em. Nice strain. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Temps under 85 should be ok, and you can go ahead and chop if you want. You're not behind schedule - they're just going to give you more than you planned, if you want them to.
 
:thumb:

I love a plant that does that! Not all plants are healthy enough at the finish to put on that final surge. Every new calyx it grows at this stage will be densely packed with new sparkling trichs. Let 'er ride! Give it another ten days or so and it should stall again - then chop.

I ran a couple SLHs and loved 'em. Nice strain. :cheesygrinsmiley:

Temps under 85 should be ok, and you can go ahead and chop if you want. You're not behind schedule - they're just going to give you more than you planned, if you want them to.


Hey Graytail. Thank you for your comment, you have made my day!,

With the new Trichs do I wait for them to turn milky white or do I just count 10 days or so then harvest. I also will be posting up some pictures I hope from the Iscope If I work out how to do it LOL. I would be pleased if you would just give them your view on them.
 
I use 6" cooltubes and ducting with my High Intensity Discharge lights to help reduce the temperature in my grow area. Cooltubes require at least 180 CFM each to function properly. To properly ventilate your 9'x8'x7'=504 cubic feet you need at least exchange the air in your grow area 5x times per hour 504x5=2520 cubic feet per hour minimum exhaust fan required to properly ventilate your grow area or 42 CFM. You should also make sure your air intake is 150% of the size of your exhaust so it does not reduce airflow. You want from 20°-30° Celsius and 50%-70% humidity for vegetative growth and 30%-50% humidity for flowering. If you are not able to reduce your grow area temperature by removing enough heat you may want to consider either an air conditioner for your grow area or air cooled sealed reflectors with ducting. Foxtailing is not necessarily a bad thing as the buds do keep growing and adding weight to the buds.
 
With the new Trichs do I wait for them to turn milky white or do I just count 10 days or so then harvest. I also will be posting up some pictures I hope from the Iscope If I work out how to do it LOL. I would be pleased if you would just give them your view on them.

Disregard the newer trichomes on the Foxtails. You should plan your harvest around when the percentage of amber trichomes is close what you want and begin your harvest flush. I harvest my cannabis plants by trichome maturity. You need a 30x jewelers loupe to see the trichomes and judge when to harvest. Most people harvest from 5%-30% amber trichomes. Harvest at 5%-15% amber trichomes for a "head high" energetic effect and harvest at 30%-50% amber trichomes for a "body stone" sedative effect strain dependent. I own a Hydrofarm Active Eye 30X jewelers Loupe, Carson Optical MicroMax LED Microscope 60x-100x and a 25X-200X Magnifier USB Digital Microscope Video Camera that I use to take trichome photographs.


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Active Eye Loupe, 30X


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Here is a Gro1 1.3MP USB LED Digital Microscope 10x & 300x

Gro1 1.3MP USB LED Digital Microscope 10x & 300x - Perfect Gardens
 
Good evening everybody.
Disregard the newer trichomes on the Foxtails. You should plan your harvest around when the percentage of amber trichomes is close what you want and begin your harvest flush. I harvest my cannabis plants by trichome maturity. You need a 30x jewelers loupe to see the trichomes and judge when to harvest. Most people harvest from 5%-30% amber trichomes. Harvest at 5%-15% amber trichomes for a "head high" energetic effect and harvest at 30%-50% amber trichomes for a "body stone" sedative effect strain dependent. I own a Hydrofarm Active Eye 30X jewelers Loupe, Carson Optical MicroMax LED Microscope 60x-100x and a 25X-200X Magnifier USB Digital Microscope Video Camera that I use to take trichome photographs.


Hello K.J.C Thank you so much for your reply. I have been flushing for the last 5-7 days already! I have as you can see included some pictures of my Trichomes the pictures are of only 3 plants, every plant I have is this advanced ( minimum ) Amber is more on some plants I also have my buds bursting on others and running down the leafs. and less on others, I have read that give the plants a 48 hrs total darkness before Harvest ? I was going to start this tomorrow !,

So my Question is going by the Trichome pictures and what I have said about them above, If tomorrow at 12 noon when lights go out I start my 48 hr darkness, then harvest I will have a head high / energetic and crossed with a bit of couch lock ? if I have understood this correctly.

Do you agree? if not what advice do you give me.


A little practice holding the cam steady I think will serve me well.


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