Spots on leaves advice would be awesome

[candycane]

These are Deadhead OG that I have grown from seed. Day 4 into 12/12 transition

This is my first grow of anything ever..
1000 watt Full Spectrum light 24” above canopy
Humidity 48%, Temps 67•F at night Highest during day is 79•F avg 74-77• F
Roots good, white and don’t smell and robust
Don’t see any bugs with microscope but have been battling fruit nats all over this town for a couple of months and don’t see but a couple here and there have been using Neem Oil as directed and have yellow sticky traps everywhere and the little Apple collection things.(Also to note I do have other plants in Happy Frog on the soil nute schedule and they are very happy) So I decided against a few nats being the problem.
5 gallon pots using 3 gallons distilled water
Nutes used and have been using are as follows and in order (using 2 Med air stones/bucket)
Armor Si 1ml/g, Calimagic 2.5ml/g, Flora Micro 2.5ml/g, Gro 2.5ml/g, Bloom 2.5ml/g, Hydrogaurd 2ml/g, Rapid Start 1ml/g PPM 481
PH 6.1-6.3 water temps are 70.8-71.9•F
These spots showed up slightly the day before I changed light schedule. I changed the DWC water hoping it would fix whatever was happening but they are just getting worse each day and was going to bump up the nutes to the transition schedule I have this weekend.
Should I go ahead and bump up now? Do they look maybe deficient in Cal Mag? I was going to fully bump them up when I changed the water but spaced it because I was trying to get the water changed out and forgot I was changing the light schedule

 

[Emilya Green]

Your pH is wrong for the DWC... you have adjusted to the soil range of 6.2-6.8. In Hydro you want to be in the range of 5.5-6.1 pH, centering in at 5.8. Being out of that range you are locking out some of your nutrients. I would also add some calmag as some of the spotting does look like a magnesium deficiency, the rest of it just looks like pH lockout to me.

 

[candycane]

Your pH is wrong for the DWC... you have adjusted to the soil range of 6.2-6.8. In Hydro you want to be in the range of 5.5-6.1 pH, centering in at 5.8. Being out of that range you are locking out some of your nutrients. I would also add some calmag as some of the spotting does look like a magnesium deficiency, the rest of it just looks like pH lockout to me.

Thank you! I had read a few places 5.5-6.5 for Hydro but typically have been having it between 5.7-6.1.
Will getting the PH at 5.8 help now or do I need to go ahead and flush the roots in plain Ph’d water and redo the nutes? I’ve read your posts on watering and have been following that on the girls in Happy Frog and thank you for your amazing insight on all that as well. The breathing insight with the girls is very therapeutic for both

 

[Emilya Green]

I am very pleased to hear that both you and the plants are gaining benefit from my watering method but most of all that it is helping your plants to thrive.
There is a movement afoot these days to flush flush flush... and mostly at the wrong times. It drives me crazy that so many people are confused as to how and why to flush. Flushing is not going to help a nutrient deficiency problem when that problem is something that is in deficit, not a buildup of any kind in the medium that needs to be washed out.
Your only problem in the DWC is that you were coming in at a pH that as it drifts upward toward the base pH of the water you are using as the nutes are being used up, just gets worse and worse. Hydro nutes are designed to be locked up inside their salt chelated bonds until the pH of the solution reaches a certain range... and you were not in it, so several of the elements needed by the plant simply were not mobile in that solution... they could not be taken up into the plant. All you have to do is water with nutes the next time at the correct pH (5.8) and all of a sudden, like a switch had been turned on, all those nutes will be mobile and available to the plant. Then simply watch the pH of your solution to see that the nutes are actually being used, indicated by the rise in pH over time. This and adding some calmag to the mix I think will solve all of your problems. Some of the damage is permanent, like those rust marks on the leaves, but your goal is to stop the progression and repair what can be repaired.

 

[candycane]

I am very pleased to hear that both you and the plants are gaining benefit from my watering method but most of all that it is helping your plants to thrive.
There is a movement afoot these days to flush flush flush... and mostly at the wrong times. It drives me crazy that so many people are confused as to how and why to flush. Flushing is not going to help a nutrient deficiency problem when that problem is something that is in deficit, not a buildup of any kind in the medium that needs to be washed out.
Your only problem in the DWC is that you were coming in at a pH that as it drifts upward toward the base pH of the water you are using as the nutes are being used up, just gets worse and worse. Hydro nutes are designed to be locked up inside their salt chelated bonds until the pH of the solution reaches a certain range... and you were not in it, so several of the elements needed by the plant simply were not mobile in that solution... they could not be taken up into the plant. All you have to do is water with nutes the next time at the correct pH (5.8) and all of a sudden, like a switch had been turned on, all those nutes will be mobile and available to the plant. Then simply watch the pH of your solution to see that the nutes are actually being used, indicated by the rise in pH over time. This and adding some calmag to the mix I think will solve all of your problems. Some of the damage is permanent, like those rust marks on the leaves, but your goal is to stop the progression and repair what can be repaired.

Thank you again so very very much! I will follow your advice to a T I never want to hurt my girls and it was driving me nuts that they were suffering because of my dumb dumb mistake I have them all at 5.8 -5.9 and with the addition of a little more Calimagic