skunnymonster
New Member
Thanks for that buddy, it all makes sense now 
White Russians in DWC 2014 - My First DWC
- Thread starter MedFarmer
- Start date
Greenthumb J
Well-Known Member
>>> It's no good for scrogging though as you know the plant cannot be moved once your net is over the top and plants are weaved through it.
Imitate the Power Grow buckets and you are good.. look em up on Scamazon!
Imitate the Power Grow buckets and you are good.. look em up on Scamazon!
- Thread starter
- #143
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
If I search for Power Grow buckets I get toys.
If I search for Power Grow I get hair loss laser combs.
Am I missing something lol?
Ok I found it on .com and not on .co.uk.
- Thread starter
- #144
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
I could install a tap at the bottom or just pull the pipe off the side which would be uncontrollable. I shall certainly look into a tap fixing
Greenthumb J
Well-Known Member
i was thinking about doing something like this for my RDWC that i'm going to start building.
I'm not using 5gal buckets for my RDWC tho, so its a bit of a puzzle to figure out how to drain the system i am making.
I'm not using 5gal buckets for my RDWC tho, so its a bit of a puzzle to figure out how to drain the system i am making.
- Thread starter
- #146
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
I got an rwdc grow on the go right now. I just have a small water pump that I drop into the reservoir to pump out the water. It's an easier system than straight dwc. The only downside is two plants could want different feeds so you need to compromise on feed. It will be better if you had two clones from the same plant that would be better matched for nutrient needs.
Greenthumb J
Well-Known Member
In an RDWC system, or any growing method that runs off a single reservoir, its very hard to grow multiple plants.
heres an unfitted version of my RDWC..
and these are what i'm using for the totes:
The skinny garbage can is the control reservoir. 2" PVC tubing will come out from the sides and turn 90 degrees and enter on side of the tote. exit will be the opposite side. The return to the control res will come down the middle of the RDWC totes where the mag drive pump will sit. From there, a 1/2" return line will pour water into the control res which will add extra aeration.
After the pump, but before the return to the control res, i want to have a ball vavle that shuts off return to the control res and diverts water flow into my drain bucket.
It will all be put together in the next couple weeks so i'll have a better view then
- Thread starter
- #148
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
You just got it going opposite to mine then. You draw from the totes and pump into the res while I pump from the res into the buckets. Have you thought of what you are going to use in the buckets for aeration? I've got bubbler tubing in this setup but I don't like it. Firstly it floats and gets tangled in the roots and secondly it doesn't bubble as well as an air stone. I've read some people glue the tubing down but it's not for me. Once the rwdc grow is done the tubing is being replaced by 6" air stones like in this grow.
Greenthumb J
Well-Known Member
i am going to use 4" cylindrical air stones, possibly 6". and 2 of them per tote running off my Gen Hydro Dual diaphragm air pump
they are heavy and will stay at the bottom. I am going to fashion up my totes either tomorrow (wednesday, tomorrow for me, since i haven't gone to sleep yet!) or thursday.
My 10" net pots that i have fit perfectly inside a 5gal bucket, so i'm thinking of drilling a million little holes in two 5gals and cutting a hole in the top of the totes and sliding the 5gal bucket snugly inside (as the 5gal buckets are tapered at the bottom right?)
This will keep MOST of the roots contained and prevent them from entering the return lines to the pump.
i'm going to draw a rough sketch.. i will post it later for you!
they are heavy and will stay at the bottom. I am going to fashion up my totes either tomorrow (wednesday, tomorrow for me, since i haven't gone to sleep yet!) or thursday.
My 10" net pots that i have fit perfectly inside a 5gal bucket, so i'm thinking of drilling a million little holes in two 5gals and cutting a hole in the top of the totes and sliding the 5gal bucket snugly inside (as the 5gal buckets are tapered at the bottom right?)
This will keep MOST of the roots contained and prevent them from entering the return lines to the pump.
i'm going to draw a rough sketch.. i will post it later for you!
- Thread starter
- #150
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
The bucket inside the tote sounds like a good idea. Let us hope it works in practice. I can see some roots will grow through the holes but not enough to clog the pipes. Good thinking batman.
Greenthumb J
Well-Known Member
I haven't sketched it yet.. got caught up with the GF having a day off from work!
But yes.. SOME roots will get though eventually, but not enough to clog my return lines.
Plus, the foam filter that attaches to the intake of the water pump just so happens to fit snugly inside a 2" PVC pipe, like i'm using for the main plumbing!
Great since i'm using the pump inline and not submerged. now i just need to get a second filter for the mag drive pump and use that on the other return line and i'm double protected from roots entering the return lines!
But yes.. SOME roots will get though eventually, but not enough to clog my return lines.
Plus, the foam filter that attaches to the intake of the water pump just so happens to fit snugly inside a 2" PVC pipe, like i'm using for the main plumbing!
Great since i'm using the pump inline and not submerged. now i just need to get a second filter for the mag drive pump and use that on the other return line and i'm double protected from roots entering the return lines!
- Thread starter
- #152
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
I have had my hand in the RDWC buckets a couple of times since they were clogged with roots and they are no longer in the pipes. I think that as they grow they venture into the pipes but once they are removed they seem to have a tendency to go in circles with the rest of the root mass and no roots seem to venture out anymore.
Could you use a car-wash sponge cut up to fit the other pipe or is that too dense?
Could you use a car-wash sponge cut up to fit the other pipe or is that too dense?
- Thread starter
- #153
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
Day 124 from seed.
Day 73 of flowering.
Serious seeds quote an expected flowering time of 56-63 days on the 'White Russian'.
Plants 1 & 3 were harvested @ 69 days and these girls are still running.
Plant no. 4
Plant no. 2
Serious seeds says they reach maturity when 70-80% of the stigmas wither and turn orange. Both the above plants are close to that and do have cloudy trichomes so I reckon to harvest them in the next couple of days.
Day 73 of flowering.
Serious seeds quote an expected flowering time of 56-63 days on the 'White Russian'.
Plants 1 & 3 were harvested @ 69 days and these girls are still running.
Plant no. 4
Plant no. 2
Serious seeds says they reach maturity when 70-80% of the stigmas wither and turn orange. Both the above plants are close to that and do have cloudy trichomes so I reckon to harvest them in the next couple of days.
Greenthumb J
Well-Known Member
Yea i'm hoping with adding the perforated bucket inside the RDWC, it will contain the majority of the roots, without letting it get too root bound (yes plants can get root bound in DWC!)
I actually bought some aquarium foam for water pumps and filters.. its pretty coarse enough to not restrict water flow, but dense enough i think to not allow roots to penetrate. I will add the sponge filters if i notice i'm having root issues in the return lines.
Do you have a preferred ratio of cloudy/amber trichomes?
skunnymonster
New Member
I've never known a strain finish on time mate, the breeders are usually 1 or 2 weeks out. Oh & the girls are looking great 
- Thread starter
- #156
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
Mr GT
No preference really. The other were 100% cloudy. The remaining 2 are 100% cloudy now so it won't be long.
skunnymonster
Thanks mate. I just want to get them out now to get the Autos in and start to train them fluxers.
No preference really. The other were 100% cloudy. The remaining 2 are 100% cloudy now so it won't be long.
skunnymonster
Thanks mate. I just want to get them out now to get the Autos in and start to train them fluxers.
- Thread starter
- #157
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
skunnymonster
These are the 4 NL x BB(4 bigger ones) I hope to train. Almost at 3rd node. What do you think?
These are the 4 NL x BB(4 bigger ones) I hope to train. Almost at 3rd node. What do you think?
skunnymonster
New Member
Are you planning on fluxing them all? You're going to be a busy man
Right if you think what your flux structure is & what it will look like side on you'll see it's a T shape. What you need to do is plan on topping your plants so the top of the T will ideally be level with the top of the pot or a couple of inch above at worst. The bottom set of branches are usually weak so the next set up should be your choice to become the flux arms so top around here. If it works out it's the next set up, that's fine too. So now you've topped your plants at the right height, make sure you cut off any foliage & new shoots below the top of the T. You should be left with a stalk that has two growth shoots at the top & a pair of leaves If any of my waffle makes no sense give me a shout I I'll try again
Right if you think what your flux structure is & what it will look like side on you'll see it's a T shape. What you need to do is plan on topping your plants so the top of the T will ideally be level with the top of the pot or a couple of inch above at worst. The bottom set of branches are usually weak so the next set up should be your choice to become the flux arms so top around here. If it works out it's the next set up, that's fine too. So now you've topped your plants at the right height, make sure you cut off any foliage & new shoots below the top of the T. You should be left with a stalk that has two growth shoots at the top & a pair of leaves
If any of my waffle makes no sense give me a shout I I'll try again- Thread starter
- #159
MedFarmer
Well-Known Member
Are you planning on fluxing them all? You're going to be a busy man
Right if you think what your flux structure is & what it will look like side on you'll see it's a T shape. What you need to do is plan on topping your plants so the top of the T will ideally be level with the top of the pot or a couple of inch above at worst. The bottom set of branches are usually weak so the next set up should be your choice to become the flux arms so top around here. If it works out it's the next set up, that's fine too. So now you've topped your plants at the right height, make sure you cut off any foliage & new shoots below the top of the T. You should be left with a stalk that has two growth shoots at the top & a pair of leaves
All is clear mate. These are only their nursery pots so I will get bigger ones right away and repot them. When I repot I will lower plant so the T junction will be lower in the pot. Then I will top the day after I repot. Does that sound good?
skunnymonster
New Member
I notice they do look a bit leggy, how long have they been in those pots? Could you re-pot them lower down so the medium is just below the 1st node?
