devilmac87
New Member
Just been wanting to jump into this hydro thing and see how I did!
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U.S. Marine vet
Thank you for your service.
I like to only place one plant in each container. That way, if something attacks one, the others might be unaffected. And so that, if one dies and has to be removed, I won't be faced with the choice of either leaving its root system behind or harming the other plants' roots when I remove the dead one's roots (and probably still leave a good bit behind).
If you have a pH and an EC (or "TDS") meter, that'll help you track what your plants are doing. Or at least a pH meter. Slow pH movements are generally a sign of nutrient consumption. If it tanks, that often indicates you've got something living in your nutrient solution that you don't want. If your PPM (parts per million of total dissolved solids in your solution) drops, the plants have consumed some nutrients. If it goes UP, they're using more water than nutrients (making the solution more concentrated). Et cetera. Very handy things, meters.
A lot of new growers buy pH "test strips." I've never been a fan of those because I'm color-challenged, because nutrient solution is already tinted... and because I can get a digital Milwaukee pH600 for $20 to $25. That's the cheapest pH meter I'd use. It's pretty basic. Manual calibration (you have to turn the little screw with the included screwdriver until it reads 7.0 when it's sitting in 7.0 soution), it's only single-point calibration, the probe isn't replaceable (but replaceable probes cost more than the cost of this meter, so that's not really an issue), and it only reads out to one decimal place. But it's a little less than half the price of a Milwaukee pH56, which I recommend to people who can easily afford the price.
Some new shots