Flushing & Leaching & Final Bud Swell

[MAK1]

interesting information -- Thanks !! I use de-natured water (water left out for 24hrs. before use)

I normally use well/tap water, I got a dehumidifier and used this once (ppm 40). My well water is 150-225 ppm so I can use that.
Letting chlorine(s) off gas for city water is good. My water sits out to warm up by the tent.

 

[HayStack]

This is a most interesting thread. I still have more to read, but I'm into it. I've never done much with leaching and bud swell. But I have my 5x5 that will be ready to harvest in 4 to 6 weeks. I like the idea of 6/18 lighting the last couple days and I think I'm gonna give it a shot.

 

[safeman]

I normally use well/tap water, I got a dehumidifier and used this once (ppm 40). My well water is 150-225 ppm so I can use that.
Letting chlorine(s) off gas for city water is good. My water sits out to warm up by the tent.

have a well myself - water is filtered once in tank and then have a filter on my kitchen spickit - never have checked the PH

 

[MAK1]

This is a most interesting thread. I still have more to read, but I'm into it. I've never done much with leaching and bud swell. But I have my 5x5 that will be ready to harvest in 4 to 6 weeks. I like the idea of 6/18 lighting the last couple days and I think I'm gonna give it a shot.

 

[MAK1]

This is a most interesting thread. I still have more to read, but I'm into it. I've never done much with leaching and bud swell. But I have my 5x5 that will be ready to harvest in 4 to 6 weeks. I like the idea of 6/18 lighting the last couple days and I think I'm gonna give it a shot.

PHAD lighting? It's not bad, it's phad!
Oh my! 6/18. Do we get phatter buds? I have heard several scenarios of Pre-harvest Acute Diminished Lighting (PHAD lighting). From 12 down to 11, 10, 8, 6, even zero to "blanch" the chlorophyll as if it was celery. NOT MY OPINION, just what I read in the news papers, idk.
Perhaps another thread would be best to continue with Pre-harvest Acute Diminished Lighting (PHAD lighting).
Don't get mad, go phad.

 

[MAK1]

Flushed, what happened here? Am I on the right tracks?
I added some activated eggshell water to my watering day. I expected this would help add a wee bit of Ca, P, Mg. I did not expect any dramatic effect. I did get a tremendous result the next day and the 2nd day. The pots dried out a lot faster. What happened? I had forgotten that I also added egg whites. I recalled a line from Harley Smith in an early video for NPK RAW. I put 2 and 2 together. Harley said add Ca and amino acids together. Similar to animal physiology, this opens the Calcium gated ion channels allowing a massive increase in the uptake (1000X) of water and nutrients.
I unwittingly added amino acids (egg whites) with the egg shells.
p.s. I don't worry about adding egg white because somewhere in the mix is some soy protein hydrolysate. I could not find any information about using egg white. Whole eggs, yes. Eggshell, yes. Egg whites? Nothing, not one article on all the internet could I find. I am on my own here looking for feed back.

 

[safeman]

Flushed, what happened here? Am I on the right tracks?
I added some activated eggshell water to my watering day. I expected this would help add a wee bit of Ca, P, Mg. I did not expect any dramatic effect. I did get a tremendous result the next day and the 2nd day. The pots dried out a lot faster. What happened? I had forgotten that I also added egg whites. I recalled a line from Harley Smith in an early video for NPK RAW. I put 2 and 2 together. Harley said add Ca and amino acids together. Similar to animal physiology, this opens the Calcium gated ion channels allowing a massive increase in the uptake (1000X) of water and nutrients.
I unwittingly added amino acids (egg whites) with the egg shells.
p.s. I don't worry about adding egg white because somewhere in the mix is some soy protein hydrolysate. I could not find any information about using egg white. Whole eggs, yes. Eggshell, yes. Egg whites? Nothing, not one article on all the internet could I find. I am on my own here looking for feed back.

know folks that use egg shells in their medium for calcium never hears of any knid of egg use in flishing ---not say it wouldn't work

 

[MAK1]

just to be difficult ... i do something different in coco and hempy.
with a salt based bottle nute i run a f/f/w schedule. i use calmag on the water side and i ph all the time.

twice during veg and once in flower i do a flush. but i don't bother with 3x bucket amount yada yada...
what is do is run water and h202 through twice till i get 10 - 25% run off each time.

i use 27 - 35% h202 at 1ml/L which is pretty strong. sometimes i only bother to run it through once.

i don't feed after for 24 - 48 hrs. the plants will surge like nuts. i know a few guys who do the same in hp type media. same results, just a little slower to show.

i run mc now, so my practices have changed a bit from then.












i honestly think the end flush was taken very much mistakenly.
again, i learnt something different. just to be a pissant. it's very much in line with your observations.


i also watch for a natural senescence. all plants do it when they ripen. i've always noticed, and have been taught, at some point at the end the plant stops feeding. period.

it's not due to lockout or any other condition, it's just done. they have a tendency to slow feeding down before, so it's easy to tell. plus a look through the loupe always confirms it's time.

at this point i ' go to water ' meaning i don't feed nutes. i may or may not ph. all i'm doing is keeping the water in the plant for a few days while i gear up to chop. this simply keeps the plant around a few extra days if i'm waiting for others or just letting a few trichomes join the amber team.

it's not really a plan, it's just suspending nutes as they won't use it anyway. it's saving cash. and washing the root zone doesn't make sense, as they never really pull much water at that point anyway.


there's bunches of folk i know who do it this way.

Edited for content and clarity.
I am in the learning mode and I noticed something in your post that has me wondering about lock-out due to excess Cal-mag, or in my case excess Mg (Magnesium Sulphate).
After a flush we sometimes get a spurt in growth because we have reduced the concentration below the lockout limit. Your friends that don't get such a flourish as you get probably are not so deep into a lockout scenario.
I read about flushing for excess Mg. First they explain how it is water soluble and easy to remove. There it is that damn 3X volume of the pot again. Yeah, I'm new so smoke up. I made a boo-boo, OK! I added way too much Epsom salt. In order to remove ALL that salt I should flush with 3X volume. So, the expert says, "I ain't got time to figure this out for your setup, just dump water over your plants, 3X volume should remove virtually everything and start over. It is a fool proof method.
One size fits all. Everyone should grow the way I grow. Organic (it is better because it is better), Sour Grapes, indoors, soil FFOF, and the trio nutes. If you develop a problem flush down to zero and start over.
If I wanted to flush with 3X volume there are no instructions. How to flush must be harder to explain or someone could have explained somewhere. I would think it easy enough to figure out but, "flushing" is a foreign to me. I know chemistry takes time, so does solubility. If I dumped 1/2 gallon 1 minute apart (that is 1 gallon) then wait 10 minutes and repeat 15 times for a 5 gallon container. Then, compare this to 1/2 gallon 4 times (2 gallons) and repeat. Now, dump 1/2 repeatedly until finished with 15 gallons of water. Do the same for a 2 gallon container with coco mix. One size fits all when everyone starts with the same thing. Maybe I need to get Ed's Bible.
I am not interested in depleting my soil of everything. I created a specific lockout issue by over feeding MgSO4 and want a targeted solution to correct it. What I want to do is reduce excess Mg below the lockout threshold. I have tested the ppm (not specifically Mg) of the effluent and my data(data point) suggests 3X flushing is a "ONE SIZE FITS ALL" solution leading to a one size fits all result. Everyone starts over from zero. I stopped flushing at 6 gallons but I believe I could have stopped @5 gallons and still had nice response from the plants.
I am certain there is someone here that took a class in botany is going to tell me I am wrong. I went to University as well. Too many hours in labs testing for metals and solubilities to accept that 3X volume haphazardly dumping water as the best way for ME. There's an ancient proverb, "Chop wood, Carry water", perhaps I carry water farther than others. I am looking for an easier way.
A bathtub full of water to flush my (6) 5 gallon pots. One size fits every situation the same if we always want to start from zero. In my opinion blindly accepting conventional wisdumb without any understanding of why is not wise, just dumb.

 

[bluter]

Edited for content and clarity.
I am in the learning mode and I noticed something in your post that has me wondering about lock-out due to excess Cal-mag, or in my case excess Mg (Magnesium Sulphate).
After a flush we sometimes get a spurt in growth because we have reduced the concentration below the lockout limit. Your friends that don't get such a flourish as you get probably are not so deep into a lockout scenario.
I read about flushing for excess Mg. First they explain how it is water soluble and easy to remove. There it is that damn 3X volume of the pot again. Yeah, I'm new so smoke up. I made a boo-boo, OK! I added way too much Epsom salt. In order to remove ALL that salt I should flush with 3X volume. So, the expert says, "I ain't got time to figure this out for your setup, just dump water over your plants, 3X volume should remove virtually everything and start over. It is a fool proof method.
One size fits all. Everyone should grow the way I grow. Organic (it is better because it is better), Sour Grapes, indoors, soil FFOF, and the trio nutes. If you develop a problem flush down to zero and start over.
If I wanted to flush with 3X volume there are no instructions. How to flush must be harder to explain or someone could have explained somewhere. I would think it easy enough to figure out but, "flushing" is a foreign to me. I know chemistry takes time, so does solubility. If I dumped 1/2 gallon 1 minute apart (that is 1 gallon) then wait 10 minutes and repeat 15 times for a 5 gallon container. Then, compare this to 1/2 gallon 4 times (2 gallons) and repeat. Now, dump 1/2 repeatedly until finished with 15 gallons of water. Do the same for a 2 gallon container with coco mix. One size fits all when everyone starts with the same thing. Maybe I need to get Ed's Bible.
I am not interested in depleting my soil of everything. I created a specific lockout issue by over feeding MgSO4 and want a targeted solution to correct it. What I want to do is reduce excess Mg below the lockout threshold. I have tested the ppm (not specifically Mg) of the effluent and my data(data point) suggests 3X flushing is a "ONE SIZE FITS ALL" solution leading to a one size fits all result. Everyone starts over from zero. I stopped flushing at 6 gallons but I believe I could have stopped @5 gallons and still had nice response from the plants.
I am certain there is someone here that took a class in botany is going to tell me I am wrong. I went to University as well. Too many hours in labs testing for metals and solubilities to accept that 3X volume haphazardly dumping water as the best way for ME. There's an ancient proverb, "Chop wood, Carry water", perhaps I carry water farther than others. I am looking for an easier way.
A bathtub full of water to flush my (6) 5 gallon pots. One size fits every situation the same if we always want to start from zero. In my opinion blindly accepting conventional wisdumb without any understanding of why is not wise, just dumb.

white space.
i have adhd and there is no way i can crack that brick bible.

white space.

notice how the thoughts and communication are clear with white space ?

 

[Phytoplankton]

Edited for content and clarity.
I am in the learning mode and I noticed something in your post that has me wondering about lock-out due to excess Cal-mag, or in my case excess Mg (Magnesium Sulphate).
After a flush we sometimes get a spurt in growth because we have reduced the concentration below the lockout limit. Your friends that don't get such a flourish as you get probably are not so deep into a lockout scenario.
I read about flushing for excess Mg. First they explain how it is water soluble and easy to remove. There it is that damn 3X volume of the pot again. Yeah, I'm new so smoke up. I made a boo-boo, OK! I added way too much Epsom salt. In order to remove ALL that salt I should flush with 3X volume. So, the expert says, "I ain't got time to figure this out for your setup, just dump water over your plants, 3X volume should remove virtually everything and start over. It is a fool proof method.
One size fits all. Everyone should grow the way I grow. Organic (it is better because it is better), Sour Grapes, indoors, soil FFOF, and the trio nutes. If you develop a problem flush down to zero and start over.
If I wanted to flush with 3X volume there are no instructions. How to flush must be harder to explain or someone could have explained somewhere. I would think it easy enough to figure out but, "flushing" is a foreign to me. I know chemistry takes time, so does solubility. If I dumped 1/2 gallon 1 minute apart (that is 1 gallon) then wait 10 minutes and repeat 15 times for a 5 gallon container. Then, compare this to 1/2 gallon 4 times (2 gallons) and repeat. Now, dump 1/2 repeatedly until finished with 15 gallons of water. Do the same for a 2 gallon container with coco mix. One size fits all when everyone starts with the same thing. Maybe I need to get Ed's Bible.
I am not interested in depleting my soil of everything. I created a specific lockout issue by over feeding MgSO4 and want a targeted solution to correct it. What I want to do is reduce excess Mg below the lockout threshold. I have tested the ppm (not specifically Mg) of the effluent and my data(data point) suggests 3X flushing is a "ONE SIZE FITS ALL" solution leading to a one size fits all result. Everyone starts over from zero. I stopped flushing at 6 gallons but I believe I could have stopped @5 gallons and still had nice response from the plants.
I am certain there is someone here that took a class in botany is going to tell me I am wrong. I went to University as well. Too many hours in labs testing for metals and solubilities to accept that 3X volume haphazardly dumping water as the best way for ME. There's an ancient proverb, "Chop wood, Carry water", perhaps I carry water farther than others. I am looking for an easier way.
A bathtub full of water to flush my (6) 5 gallon pots. One size fits every situation the same if we always want to start from zero. In my opinion blindly accepting conventional wisdumb without any understanding of why is not wise, just dumb.

Well I’m sure chemically there is a way to remove just the MgSO4, not sure if the plant would survive. Do what you want, or figure out how to do it without flushing. But Flushing works.

 

[MAK1]

white space.
i have adhd and there is no way i can crack that brick bible.

white space.

notice how the thoughts and communication are clear with white space ?

Some of what I wrote at first did not explain what I was doing or what I was trying to accomplish. Some ideas are different but not automatically wrong. No white space, nothing was redacted, so we are clear on that.

 

[MAK1]

Well I’m sure chemically there is a way to remove just the MgSO4, not sure if the plant would survive. Do what you want, or figure out how to do it without flushing. But Flushing works.

I expect most of the added mineral salts were washed off at a similar rate. Maybe phosphates and nitrates wash out differently I don't know. I believe there is one major problem, I added too much Epsom salt. I did flush as described with about 1X volume and a plant responded well. Then I did this sort of flush to different plant and got a similar result. Earlier I washed other two. In 2 days I expect them to respond like the others did.
Maybe I had many excesses that got knocked down to a point were the plant can tolerate in its stage of life.
Flushing with 3X volume is a flawless technique. I have never read anywhere that explained how to do that. I am simple minded and need clear directions to follow, I did something different and it worked for me.
Someone said to me, "You do you." I have been doing myself ever since and this a result. It is a boat load of fun trying to figure out what flushing means. Maybe someday this Grasshopper will have learned.

 

[bluter]

Some of what I wrote at first did not explain what I was doing or what I was trying to accomplish. Some ideas are different but not automatically wrong. No white space, nothing was redacted, so we are clear on that.

i was referring to the fact the post is just one long running sentence. wouldn't matter if your thoughts were perfectly clear. most of us can't dig it out of that brick.

 

[Emilya Green]

I expect most of the added mineral salts were washed off at a similar rate. Maybe phosphates and nitrates wash out differently I don't know. I believe there is one major problem, I added too much Epsom salt. I did flush as described with about 1X volume and a plant responded well. Then I did this sort of flush to different plant and got a similar result. Earlier I washed other two. In 2 days I expect them to respond like the others did.
Maybe I had many excesses that got knocked down to a point were the plant can tolerate in its stage of life.
Flushing with 3X volume is a flawless technique. I have never read anywhere that explained how to do that. I am simple minded and need clear directions to follow, I did something different and it worked for me.
Someone said to me, "You do you." I have been doing myself ever since and this a result. It is a boat load of fun trying to figure out what flushing means. Maybe someday this Grasshopper will have learned.

Let me describe a flush in a new way to see if this will make sense to your self diagnosed simple mindedness. If you don't understand the meaning of flushing the soil after the next two sentences, I fear that you are unteachable, or are just being obtuse on purpose.

1. Flushing means pouring in water until the water comes out of the bottom, clear.
2. Scientifically, flush until the ppm of the water coming out is the same as the ppm of the water going in.

We have found that 3x the container size usually accomplishes this task, but it doesn't matter how much that ends up being... whether it is 2x the container size or 3x or something in between. I seriously doubt that your 1x volume got to the point of being a proper flush, but apparently you flushed out enough of the bad stuff to make things work again, for a while. Keep this firmly in your mind though, your doing something different than everyone else ended up in being nothing more than a shortcut. You did the required job only part way. Your mini flush, with you doing you, was substandard and flawed in its incompleteness, and I wouldn't be surprised to see your plants lock out again in just a few weeks because of it. Sorry Grasshopper... this is the truth.

 

[MAK1]

i was referring to the fact the post is just one long running sentence. wouldn't matter if your thoughts were perfectly clear. most of us can't dig it out of that brick.

I should have simplified this and said flushing is the dumbest thing I have seen since companies started putting "Gluten Free" on packages of fresh meat. Gluten is bad for you.

 

[bluter]

I should have simplified this and said flushing is the dumbest thing I have seen since companies started putting "Gluten Free" on packages of fresh meat. Gluten is bad for you.

it's all good. everyone keeps getting

flushing for correcting an issue
and flushing as suspending nutes at the end of flower

confused.
the first is legitimate. the second is not.

 

[MDI]

The purpose of this post is to open a dialogue on the root cause of the commonly encountered phenomena of final bud swell, often encountered in the last two weeks before harvest.

Many new growers are warned not to harvest early, as the final bud swell, occurring in the final two weeks before harvest, can pack on significant weight, resin, and aroma.

Growers are also often encouraged to flush at about two weeks from harvest, and cease fertilizer treatments. The intended purpose is to make the plant use up as much stored energy as possible before harvest, improving smell, burn, and effect.

After extensive reading into plant physiology, I've developed a hypothesis that may explain the phenomena we often see in the last two weeks.

Plant nutrients, whether synthetic in a bottle, or organic in a bag of worm castings, enter the plants roots and xylem as mineral ions, inorganic matter. Most nutrients gain access to the inner root via active transport; that is, to overcome the concentration gradient, the plant must spend energy on moving the ions manually. So, rather than just getting sucked up with the water, which is passive, nutrient absorbtion is mostly active and requires energy from the plant to occur.

Further, once within the root, the nutirent ions are then converted to other forms(assimilation), which also has an energy impact. Creating amino acids and proteins from ions and photosynthetic products is a lot of work!

So, that being known, one can well assume that making nutrients unavailable to the roots, and subsequently eliminating energy use from assimilation, should decrease or eliminate the energy expense of nutrient uptake and assimilation.

Growing flowers, and production of resin and terpenes are also metabolically taxing activities of the plant.

So, perhaps by dropping all that energy consumption that was being spent on pulling in nutrients, is now made free to produce larger flowers, more resin, and more terpenes, resulting in what we see as a magical bud swell in the weeks before harvest.

This should be an easy enough experiment to conduct, and I'll be doing so with my current multistrain grow. I'll simply keep feeding one until harvest, and stop feeding the other. More samples would be great, why not give it a shot?

Oh, and for those using organic nutrient lines or supersoil. This applies to you just as much as the synthetic fertilizer users. Organic nutrients are identical to synthetic nutirents as far what actually enters the plant. A nitrate ion is a nitrate ion, it doesn't matter where it came from, ans the plant will only let specific ions in. And if my theory is correct, the point is to force the plant to live on reserved energy and put all of its effort into building buds. So you should give it a shot too!

Discuss!

That is AWESOME. !!!! I will keep coming back to learn more. I'm rite there too. I just did not know how the plants transfomed from stage to stage.

 

[MDI]

re: Flushing & Leaching & Final Bud Swell

I'm also starting to question the efficacy of flushing. On the surface it seems like it works. It's logical, certainly, but I'm not sure the plant can work the way described. Let me explain.

The point to flushing is to remove excess fertilizer salts from the grow medium, forcing the plant to consume it's own energy stores. I feel like this is maybe 100% functional for most parts of the plants, except the part we care about, which are the flowers.

Flowers are sinks, not sources, meaning flowers don't provide anything to the plant, it only receives. So, while it makes sense that maybe the leaves would benefit from a flush, the buds really have nowhere to offload excess fertilizer, if any even exists in an available form within the plant matter. I was also thinking that, rarely do we burn flowers with nutrients. Nutrient burn is caused by excess salts forcing water out of cells, at least in essence. If there were excess nutrients in the flowers, flowers should nute burn. But rarely do they. It appears that the vast majority of nitrogen and other elements we feed as fertilizer, are incorporated into the plant matter, not stored or just sitting, but being part of the cell, so, not something you remove via translocation.

I also joined a forum for growing tobacco. Funny, they're just as tight knit community as over here, with different strains and breeders. Cool stuff.

But anyway, these guys don't flush, and laughed their asses off when I explained it to them.

They then, after composing themselves, explained that flavor and harshness are controlled with the cure. They then described their cure methods, which jive with Ed Rosenthals latest grow guide.

Basically, we all have it backwards. We dry and cure, while they cure, then dry.

It was explained that a proper cure of any plant matter requires a period of fermentation, which begins imediately after chop. Curing without fermentation is apparently not actual curing. The cure breaks down most of the nasty plant material via fermentation, so, cells are broken down, gasses release, and any of those elements that had previously constituted the matter of the cell are released, which these guys say takes between 4 and 16 weeks in low/no light, medium humidity and temperature, with air circulation.

After the cure, they dry it to the right humidity just like us, and then age it for a few years.

No flush, no flushing agents, just a really long, true, cure.

Most of us let the buds dry in about the same conditions tobacco usually cures, little to no light, medium humidity, moderate temps, some air circulation. So, we probably are benefitting from a fairly short cure during our drying period, and if we are letting jars air out regularly (air in, actually, a true cure requires oxygen.) So, if you slow dry, and are good about airing jars out, and you do this properly for longer and longer periods, as everyone recommends, you getter better flavor, as everyone seems to say. If you're doing this, you're benefitting from a true cure.

I also found that while oxygen can degrade thc, light is a much bigger enemy, and if cured properly even in the presence of oxygen, the bud should lose very little potency.

I'm not about to bet the harvest on this, but I will be setting a few buds aside for a proper long ferment/cure. Ed says it's best. Others say the same. All of them say it's all about the proper cure, and that our traditional methods are just quick and easy. They work, but could be much better.

So, anyway, aside from our apparently not curing properly, it looks likely that flushing does nothing at all for the flowers, maybe something for leaves. It definitely clears out soil though, so at the least, you aren't pulling more nutes in.

Again guys, this is meant to be a discussion on what's actually happening in the plant. While I appreciate other harvest tips, that's not what this thread is about. In fact, it's these types of tips I'm trying to understand. Too many people just do things either because they seem to work, or at least do no harm. I want to know why it works, not just that it does.

That's how things like Miracle Grow become so popular. Anyone using it thinks it's miraculous, because they don't understand anything about plant nutrition.

Their shit plant looks great after use. It's a miracle!

No, it's just NPK.

The bud tastes better after flushing.

No, it's just the cure.

And I'll continue flushing until I am convinced one way or the other. I lean toward it not working, but the marketing guys (and at least half of you guys) have me scared to risk it for now.

Debate!

Thank you for your insight. I'm starting my 2nd yr growing, indoors and outdoors. I keep spread sheets on subject plants on size, effects of different nutes, grow plans and ect. I have been to a cannabis university and didn't get the info you give. There are soo many people on the internet who don't really know why their plant does what it does. I want to know why it works, not just that it does. I need to know ever detail of the plants life cycle and how it processes nutes and produce flowers . The curing process is soo unknown in the industry. It seems like everyone has a different method. I was left to experimentation. I almost lost my outdoor harvest listening to wanna b's. I'm going to try the tobacco guys' harvest here soon . Thank you

 

[MAK1]

Thank you for your insight. I'm starting my 2nd yr growing, indoors and outdoors. I keep spread sheets on subject plants on size, effects of different nutes, grow plans and ect. I have been to a cannabis university and didn't get the info you give. There are soo many people on the internet who don't really know why their plant does what it does. I want to know why it works, not just that it does. I need to know ever detail of the plants life cycle and how it processes nutes and produce flowers . The curing process is soo unknown in the industry. It seems like everyone has a different method. I was left to experimentation. I almost lost my outdoor harvest listening to wanna b's. I'm going to try the tobacco guys' harvest here soon . Thank you

Hit and miss as is normal for weed growing ideas. The cure vs. dry? There is plenty of room for discussion on that. Let me start by saying this ain't tobacco curing so it is a little different. I am only grown weed twice. Both times were very different drying methods and variations within those.
So far the buds that had the 5 day rapid dry (temp and RH?) then a 14 day cure at 60' and 60% seem to be preferred. They got the hardest, smoke the easiest and hold the flavors well. My environmental controls are better now so what I will try next is the very rapid dry at the beginning then tapering off more like a slide rather than a switch from drying to curing. Keeping it COOL man.
I never expected there to be a big difference in preference here. I like my buds a little wetter and I live in a humid environment. My brothers prefers them crispy dry and live in a drier environment. Go figure - he smokes 'em hot, I like 'em cool. I don't have customers to ask opinions.

 

[safeman]

That is AWESOME. !!!! I will keep coming back to learn more. I'm rite there too. I just did not know how the plants transfomed from stage to stage.

ther was a study done with flushing using just H2O
flushing for: 1-3 days
1-7 days
1-14days

and was found out that flushing from 1-3 days is /was the best in relations to taste and smell. Interesting ! gennerally in the late stage of flower and I use Fish Shit and Hygrozyme . (FYI last grow use Terpinator and Purpinator along with other nutrients I really pushed the nutrients and I payed for in the end the crop was shit too, too many chemicals - plants were feed up to a few days before harvest - bad taste, harsh some smell - in that case maybe a 2 week flush this is saying that the plant will use all remaining nutrients before harvest - flushing times are in relation to your feeding program - during flushing one is removing all "salts" that weren't used up hope this sheds some light on the subject