Foam Board Light Canopy

OldSkoool

New Member
For three years I've been using two 18X22X14 computer boxes to grow single CFL lighted plants for myself. But wear and tear over time, plus the desire for additional light finally inspired me to build a new light canopy. Not wanting to buy a new cabinet, or having the room and tools necessary construct a wooden replacement, I chose 1/2 thick foam board, and wanted to share the results for others here in the same situation.

Although I took pics detailing the construction process, I didn't want to post them all unless there is a desire by fellow members, which I'll be happy to do.

I can say I highly recommend this material, it's easy to work with, and is quite substantial for smaller cabinets. A simple wooden frame should suffice for larger units. I used four 30X20X1/2 sheets for this construction, but larger sheets are available at most artist, craft supply stores, and online suppliers. I paid $5.00 per sheet.

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Completed unit, showing the exhaust fan, air baffle/reflection plate, and power strips.

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The canopy slides down over the unchanged plant box, resting on dowels inserted into holes drilled in the wooden uprights for height adjustment.

Hopefully this may provide an alternative construction material for CFL users.

I would not recommend foam board for anyone using lighting methods that generate a lot of heat for obvious fire reasons.
 
:thanks:

Thanks Lost1, after 3 days I was beginning to wonder if other members didn't like my idea;)

Took the pic 6 days ago with 3 plants starting 12/12. One of them showed pistols this morning, she won, and is now under the lamps in a new 12" pot all by herself.
 
Thank you for that User! Since putting it together I've covered the air baffle/reflective plate with foil.

Doubling the lumens should prove to be interesting on my current grow.
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Considering previous buds grown under four CFL's were PDG:slide:
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For three years I've been using two 18X22X14 computer boxes to grow single CFL lighted plants for myself. But wear and tear over time, plus the desire for additional light finally inspired me to build a new light canopy. Not wanting to buy a new cabinet, or having the room and tools necessary construct a wooden replacement, I chose 1/2 thick foam board, and wanted to share the results for others here in the same situation.

Although I took pics detailing the construction process, I didn't want to post them all unless there is a desire by fellow members, which I'll be happy to do.

I can say I highly recommend this material, it's easy to work with, and is quite substantial for smaller cabinets. A simple wooden frame should suffice for larger units. I used four 30X20X1/2 sheets for this construction, but larger sheets are available at most artist, craft supply stores, and online suppliers. I paid $5.00 per sheet.

lightcanopy14.JPG


Completed unit, showing the exhaust fan, air baffle/reflection plate, and power strips.

lightcanopy171.JPG


The canopy slides down over the unchanged plant box, resting on dowels inserted into holes drilled in the wooden uprights for height adjustment.

Hopefully this may provide an alternative construction material for CFL users.

I would not recommend foam board for anyone using lighting methods that generate a lot of heat for obvious fire reasons.

OldShoool I came back to look at this again. Now that I really look at it. The possibilities are endless. I could see this larger with maybe thin plywood. It could still slide up and down for lighting adjustments. Maybe a cover for a scrog grow. Still thinking about this. Your thought process opens allot of variations and can still use CFLs.:goodjob:
 
OMM, Considering all one needs is a straight edge, pencil, serrated steak knife, and imagination, the possibilities are endless. I used a bamboo teri akai skewer to poke the holes for the small bolt holes needed to mount the power strips, and corner braces. Using washers is a must.

For scribing the fan circle cut, I did employee a hi tech method for accuracy;)

lightcanopy09.JPG
 
Yes I see many variations on this. As is it probably is very light weight too,
comparably speaking. Believe it or not I was a Design and Construction draftsman in Vietnam of all places.lol
I'll have dig out my T-square in the next few months and see what I can come up with. I think your construction methods are top rate.
:peace:
 
Thanks OMM. Sounds like we both did our share of design work, mine being in construction/elect/HVAC/BMS/cable spec's for computer/telecomm equipment builds. I haven't weighed it, but if it was more than a pound (without lights) I'd be surprised. Cool stuff to work with.

Projects like this keep the cobwebs off my brain.
 
(((((Granny hugs OldSkoool!!))))) :nicethread: You mean to tell me that all those huge old computer boxes could have been useful??? And then ya went and made it even lighter! Sure beats the heck outta all the lights and plugs I got going in my veg room.

Okay, now I am hoping you have more detailed pics for those of us who are mechanically challenged? :smokin:
 
Okay Granny here goes.

Tools Needed:

Serrated steak knife

Straight edge (ruler)

Small diameter awl (I used a bamboo skewer)

Pencil (doubled as an awl for the 1/4 holes for the baffle)

Compass to scribe fan opening (if using a round fan, I used a push pin and string method)

Supplies Needed (as pictured):

4 ea - 20"X30"X1/2" White foam board panels

8 ea - 2 1/2" corner braces (16 small 1" machine bolts, 16 washers, 16 nuts)

5 ea - Power strips (10 small 1 1/4" machine bolts, 20 nuts, 30 washers)

4 ea - 4"X3/16" Carriage bolts (12 nuts, 12 washers)

1 ea - 9" Desk fan (make sure you can remove the stand, Honeywell makes a nice 3 speed model, just pop the side mounts off, slips in perfectly)

8 ea - 42W 'warm spectrum' CFL's (flowering cycle)

1 ea - Timer

Flat work surface

Optional Supplies:

Foil, or Mylar interior covering

Note:

Make sure the head on the small bolts to mount the power strips fit into the mounting openings on the back of the power strips.

Be careful to not over tighten nut/bolts, just enough to dimple the surface to avoid breaking the surface of the foam board.

This stuff is easy to work with, just take your time with your cuts, and remember - Measure Twice, Cut Once.

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After cutting out the four sides, mark the power strip mounting holes. Most power strips have a standard 4" distance between the two hole. Measurements for this step is critical, make sure the lights don't touch each other, or interfere with the air baffle/reflector plate.
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The drill was for another project.

It's a good idea to keep the cut side up when aligning the sides for mounting the corner brackets. Maintains a more accurate top edge surface. Having a friend help with this part of the assembly is a big plus.
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Have to run out, will be back shortly to finish this up.
 
You can use a compass to outline the circular cut for the fan (diameter not so large the fan falls through), or use the ol push pin, and string method I used:cool: The diameter for the Honeywell fan is exactly nine inches. I built another light canopy last night for a friend, and he purchased the Honeywell fan, same basic design as the fan pictured here, but is superior to the fan I'm currently using. The only modification is to notch the fan hole so you can pass the power cord up through it.
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After assembling the four sides, you can cut out the fan recess, and the 13"X14" baffle/reflector plate. Shown with two of the 4" carriage bolts that are used for attaching to the bottom of the top piece.
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You can now mount the power strips. Be a good idea to plug in a few CFL's to check for any clearance issues. Remember to place a washer between any bolt, or washer that snugs up against the surface of the foam board.
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Drop the fan into the recess, mount the 5th power strip to the top lid, plug in the main CFL power strip, and your ready for business.
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Let me know if I need to clarify anything, or if you have any questions.

The light canopy I made last night for my buddy will be suspended over his plant on a rope/pulley configuration, the plant will rest on a stand high enough for a 5 gal bucket to sit under, catching watering run off. Much better idea than the box I'm using.

I'll be doing the same thing myself, all I need to do is mount two 21"X1-1/2"X3/4" wood stringers along the top edge of two sides, screw four eye hooks (two per side) into the stringers on each end, use 1/4" nylon rope to connect the two eye hooks on each side, pull the two loops together, attaching them to a small safety ring tied the rope laced through the pulley.

No more carrying this heavy MF to the sink:cheer:
 
Finished up the canopy I described for my buddy. Here's a few shots before he took it home.
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Yeah, OMM was describing my going on my ass last winter when I slipped on the ice......but my lack of reaction is nothing compared to what OMM puts up with on a daily basis though. One tough dude.

Appreciate the comments for my little light box folks, I'm trying to improve the system to reduce my labor, and save my sore tail bone.

Using an old fish tank stand, I'm finally free from having to lift the plant off the drain bucket (oh relief) to empty it several times at each watering, now just having to empty the drain bucket sitting below the plant when if gets half full. Oh happy day.

Later today I'll be attaching four 20"X15"X1/4" white foam board panels using velcro to the existing sides to form a 15" adjustable skirt to reflect additional light to the lower branches, and leaves.

Here's how it looks now, sans skirting. Hope this gives some ideas for others like me that have small grows.

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Neat idea.



Isn't that foam stuff fairly flammable? Have you considered/seen the foil backed foam made for heater ducting?
 
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