- Thread starter
- #501
I've trained around the pot in large cloth pots, but it's important to train it every day so you can get it before it gets hard to bend. Keep the top 2" going in the right direction and you should be okay.
How I perform low stress training on my plants: Lots of pics!
- Thread starter InTheShed
- Start date
thanks! Really appreciate all the support!
Hey Shed, I feel stuck. I apologize that this is not the theme of this thread, but you’ve been so helpful I just thought I might ask. My first grow, I grew three autos with no problems. I guess it must’ve been beginners luck because ever since then I have had a very difficult time getting my seeds past germination. The one plant I sent pictures of is the only one of like eight seeds to get to veg. They all seem to grow about an inch or two out of the soil and then just stop. I can’t figure out what I’m doing wrong. I’m growing in soil and I’m careful not to overwater. I’m super frustrated and it’s costing me some hard earned cash on wasted seeds. Do you have a method that brings you consistent success? Thanks for your guidance and I hope you’re having a happy holiday!
- Thread starter
- #505
Hey Will, sorry to hear about the recent growing troubles. Has anything changed in the environment since the ones that worked? It's definitely colder this time of year so temperature may be the problem. I know the general rule is not to transplant autos, but you might want to consider starting them in a solo cup on a heat mat (with a thermostat) if you can't keep consistent 80º temps for the sprouts.
Also, it's good not to over water, but the water in that circle does need to reach the bottom of the pot so the tap root can find it as it grows down.
Do they ever die or just stop growing and then eventually flower at 2" tall?
Thanks Shed! I live in Hawaii so temp isn’t a problem. It’s almost always 75-83 degrees. I actually have my grow tent outside. If all goes well…after a few weeks, I’m able to take them out for some sunshine. I do a hybrid indoor outdoor. I read somewhere to fully soak your 5 gal pot and wait a few hours before planting seed. I wonder if I’m starting with soil too wet. Seedling still pops but maybe struggles with roots. Just not sure. As always, thanks for your thoughts!
- Thread starter
- #507
I'm going with yes! Start with dry soil and water as if it was in a solo cup. As the plant gets bigger, enlarge the circle of water to match the root growth.
Me too! But I move my sprouts into the sun (in Los Angeles) as soon as they break ground. Then they come in at night for warmth and more light. All of my plants get moved twice a day, and when they're ready to flip I put them in darkness for 12 hours, before moving them out into the sun in the morning.
If you start a grow journal (how-to link is here) post a link in my perpetual grow journal here so we can follow your progress!
Nine Toed Hippie
Well-Known Member
Merry Christmas Shed.
NTH
NTH
- Thread starter
- #509
Thanks NTH, to you and yours as well!
Backyardigan
Well-Known Member
Howzit kanaks, I agree with She'd. I like to "cook" my soil by watering 3 days before I plant the bean.. brings the microbial ecology to life in the soil for the bean. I use one epsom salt water solution for water. Going help with nutrient uptake of the available grines that stay naturally in the soil (I use FFOF). If you feel like the top layer stay dry just spritz the buggah with a couple squeezes. Put one clear cup over the bean and let um rip!
Mele Kalikimaka kanaks :shaka:
Backyardigan
Well-Known Member
As for the topic at hand, I top then LST all growth straight out to edges. Once tops are all up right, I send it. Flower and let that faka shoot vertical.
- Thread starter
- #512
Nice looking manifold Backyardigan, but that hardly qualifies as low stress!
Backyardigan
Well-Known Member
HAHA, my bad... it's a technicality, the plant topped itself from birth. I just tied the stalks and growth down... still not LST?
Aloha Backyardigan! Super helpful
Thanks Shed! Glad to hear there are other hybrid growers! Appreciate all your support!
- Thread starter
- #516
Any gentle tying down is low stress!
If I didn't do all the plant schlepping I'd get no exercise at all.
LST = Low stress training. Which is only bending/tying/twisting the stems and leaves. Which puts the plant in less stress than topping/pruning parts off from the plant.
Ofcourse lst being involved in many training techniques.
When training plants only by LST, you minimize the risks to stunt the growth for example.
Backyardigan
Well-Known Member
Mahalos for clearing that up twice now, I think I not going forget that topping isn't LST.LST = Low stress training. Which is only bending/tying/twisting the stems and leaves. Which puts the plant in less stress than topping/pruning parts off from the plant.
Ofcourse lst being involved in many training techniques.
When training plants only by LST, you minimize the risks to stunt the growth for example.
Silkystoner
Active Member
Just finished looking and reading! Awesome Tutorial, now all i gotta do is try and copy itGreetings all! I've had members ask about how I do my LST (low stress training) on my plants so I thought I would do a pictorial on it. My pics are of two different plants but don't let that confuse you. It's just easier to demonstrate that way.
Let's discuss the theory behind LST for a minute. Cannabis plants grow up to the sun. They have a top (apical) cola and side branching. Most of the growth hormones (auxins) go to that apical cola, which is why an untrained plant often has a beautiful huge bud on top and then progressively smaller buds as you head toward the soil. Topping a plant tells the plant that there is no longer an apical cola (damage alert!!!) so it needs to send the auxins to other branches to assure its chances to pass on its genetics. You then end up with two tops from that one.
That's great for photo plants which you can grow as big as you want them to be before you flip them, but autos are on an internal clock. Now many growers top their autos and get great results. I don't. I try to stress autos as little as possible so I do LST.
LST is a method for tricking the plant into thinking it no longer has an apical cola without actually removing it. The method involves pulling the top down flat so that it's not higher than the rest of the plant. The plant still thinks it's lost its apical cola and begins to send the growth hormones to the rest of the branches, but there is no recovery time as there is with topping because nothing has been cut.
As each of the lower branches grows in response, it gets tied down toward the outside of the pot, allowing light and air to get to the rest of the plant, and forcing the plant to continue to evenly spread the auxins.
Let's look at some pics!
I used to start bending the plant when it was much younger. Now I wait until the stem will be close to even with the top edge of the pot after it's bent. This was my Blueberry Auto from last summer.
You can see that I used a rock to hold the stem in place as I bent it. It's important that the base of the stem be upright so you don't put stress on the stem/root connection. Now I use a rock as well as a tie holding the stem in the opposite direction to the bend. This is my current Blue Treacle:
Let's watch the progress of the Blueberry Auto as it goes from the first pic to full buddage!
You can see how I have begun to take the side branching and lay it out flat as well - away from any other growth - using the sticks and twist ties. Flattening each branch forces the plant to spread the auxins equally:
Once the branches outgrow the internal size of the pot, I tie the branches to the edge:
Once they get this far into flower there is no more to be done except watch them grow! I do not untie them until I harvest the plant.
Here is the Blueberry getting close to the end. Can you spot the apical cola? This produced over 4 ounces of dried buds. Not too shabby!
Now let's look at an auto I have currently going into the earliest stages of flower. This one is a Blue Treacle, shown in the second pic with the white wire holding the stem in place opposite the bend. Here is a top view:
And here it is from the side. You can see how flat the top is:
This plant thinks there is no apical cola and is trying its damnedest to develop a new one. Not going to let that happen! I want each cola to be the same size in the end, similar to the last Blueberry pic.
Time for a closer look at the restraints!
My main stem no longer has any room for me to get a pipe cleaner in between the bud sites. No matter! I just grabbed a top fan and tied that down!
And here you can see some of the exposed lower sites that get full light and are close to the same height as the rest of the stem...more hormones!
That's the way I do it. Post questions or comments!
I'll update this thread when the buds develop and we can see if they're as even as the Blueberry was!
- Thread starter
- #520
Thanks Silky! Start with a few thinner stems and build up your confidence.
