LED light construction for complete noob

[bluter]

Hi Butler, the fact is that I don't know how to solder the two wires and I'm afraid of doing some damage, and I don't even have a soldering iron..are there any potentiometers where I can not solder?

no. not economically. it's an easy skill to acquire though. you would need a decent iron. that's a gateway entry expense.

I found some on Amazon but I don't understand which one is right

you need to do the math on the driver, but it will be a resistance measured in ohms. the led gardener web site should have a few matches.

How does a pwm controller work?

pulse width modulation. digital control.. don't worry about it, you'll never need more than a dimmer than a timer. it combines the two digitally.

On a constant current driver like the one I chose, I would go and change the mA values, right?

no. constant current means the current remains constant.
you should look up the difference between current and voltage.

I have searched the internet and it seems to me that this type of controller does not need to be soldered, so it would be perfect

it's internal. and not really easily adjustable.

 

[Simomas]

Ok I saw that on Amazon a soldering iron doesn't cost much, so I might as well try! I would prefer a potentiometer rather than a pwm, I just have to figure out how to choose the right one

 

[Simomas]

Ok guys, I understand how the potentiometer in version B works.
Tin soldering shouldn't be difficult, I could do it but if I have any problems I could get help.
Having established that a potentiometer driver is a better solution, I might change the driver at this point. Tell me if it's a good idea. At this point I could get a more powerful driver to use in future buil too (I don't think I will ever grow in a space of more than 60x60cm).
My choice fell on the Meanwell ELG-100-C500B
Output voltage: 100 ~ 200V
Maximum output current: 500mA
Max power: 100W

I would use 7 strips in series

potentiometer adjustment​	V per strip​	mA​	Total W​
100%​	19,9​	500​	69,6​
90%​	19,7​	450​	62​
80%​	19,6​	400​	54,8​
70%​	19,5​	350​	47,7​
60%​	19,4​	300​	40,7​
50%​	19,2​	250​	33,6​
40%​	19​	200​	26,6​
30%​	18,8​	150​	19,7​
20%​	18,6​	100​	13​
10%​	18,3​	50​	6,4​
0%​	0​	0​	0​

I don't think I'll be using this build above 80% so I think my aluminum plate is enough as a heatsink.

The potentiometer I need is therefore 0-10VDC, right?

 

[VetSmoke85]

Yeah I think if you can add a potentiometer the B driver is better as @bluter pointed out. I went with an A type and it is fiddly to adjust but I didn't need to adjust it very often and the driver was easily accessible so it didn't bother me. The build plan looks good to me.

 

[Simomas]

I don't know how to thank you, you are providing me with tremendous help
In your opinion, can I mount the driver outside the grow box (ideally I would like to put it on the "roof") or do I have to put it on top of the aluminum plate?

 

[VetSmoke85]

I don't know how to thank you, you are providing me with tremendous help
In your opinion, can I mount the driver outside the grow box (ideally I would like to put it on the "roof") or do I have to put it on top of the aluminum plate?

Yeah you can mount it outside the box. That's helpful to maintain a good temperature inside small grow spaces. Drivers can really heat things up. Although you won't be pushing it too hard so it shouldn't get too hot. It's advisable to mount it onto something non flammable with an air gap underneath if possible. I had mine sat on a carpeted floor Not really recommended.

 

[Simomas]

026TB32R101B1A1 CTS Electrocomponents | Potentiometers, Variable Resistors | DigiKey

Would this be the correct potentiometer? It's 100ohm, but I don't understand if it's 0-10V or 1-10V.
Or simply whether it is the correct potentiometer

 

[bluter]

i think you're looking for 1/2 watt 100k ohm linear taper potentiometer. there is a graph in the driver spec sheet you can use to determine your pot spec with a little math. there's a couple online vids you can reference as well.

 

[Simomas]

Thank you! I asked the same question on another forum and they directly sent me the link of the one to take, but it matches the specifications you said.
Anyway I placed the order on DigiKey, got the strips, driver, 18awg cable, heat shrink tubing, potentiometer and Wago connectors
While on Amazon I'll go with everything else.
Tomorrow I will leave for a vacation so it is likely that you will not hear from me for a few days, but when I return I should have all the material to start the construction, so I will keep you updated!
I am a little agitated and I hope everything goes well

The next step will be the actual construction of the grow box, I don't know yet whether to go for 80 or 100cm in height

 

[VetSmoke85]

Thank you! I asked the same question on another forum and they directly sent me the link of the one to take, but it matches the specifications you said.
Anyway I placed the order on DigiKey, got the strips, driver, 18awg cable, heat shrink tubing, potentiometer and Wago connectors
While on Amazon I'll go with everything else.
Tomorrow I will leave for a vacation so it is likely that you will not hear from me for a few days, but when I return I should have all the material to start the construction, so I will keep you updated!
I am a little agitated and I hope everything goes well

The next step will be the actual construction of the grow box, I don't know yet whether to go for 80 or 100cm in height

Looking forward to seeing it built. If you can get the 100cm one it's always handy to have that extra headroom.

 

[Simomas]

Looking forward to seeing it built. If you can get the 100cm one it's always handy to have that extra headroom.

Yes also my favorite option would be that, for 40 € I would have the cabinet, it is also built in chipboard so it will be easy to drill and work with it

 

[VetSmoke85]

This was the cabinet I started out in. Only 63cm tall and things always got very tight. 100cm will be much better. Picking short strains and training to keep them low will be necessary.

 

[Tbe]

Constant current LED drivers have a fixed current in amperes or milliamperes and a variable voltage. Constant voltage drivers are similar, but opposite, with fixed voltages and variable current

 

[Simomas]

Questo è stato l'armadio in cui ho iniziato. Solo 63 cm di altezza e le cose sono sempre diventate molto strette. 100 cm saranno molto meglio. Sarà necessario scegliere ceppi brevi e allenarsi per mantenerli bassi.

Question for the future, what did you use for air circulation?

 

[bluter]

Ok I saw that on Amazon a soldering iron doesn't cost much, so I might as well try!

a soldering station with variable heat control is the best option. they are not cheap. they are insanely handy to have though. aside from building the lighting, i've used mine to swap out ecu chips, and re-flow integrated circuit paths on old electronics.

Tin soldering shouldn't be difficult, I could do it but if I have any problems I could get help.

it's electrical solder you need. totally different from tin. tin won't flow electricity and mess your build something awful.

Having established that a potentiometer driver is a better solution, I might change the driver at this point. Tell me if it's a good idea.

it is if you want light control. otherwise you need the space to accomplish intensity changes by raising and lowering the light above your plant. would need at least 5 - 6 ft height for the grow space.

The potentiometer I need is therefore 0-10VDC, right?

check your spec sheet. it seems right.

 

[Simomas]

Constant current LED drivers have a fixed current in amperes or milliamperes and a variable voltage. Constant voltage drivers are similar, but opposite, with fixed voltages and variable current

Thank you for participating in my post! Did I do something wrong with the build?

 

[bluter]

Thank you for participating in my post! Did I do something wrong with the build?

he's pointing out you need to decide whether you are running a constant current or constant voltage driver. it changes the math depending which you opt for.

your approach so far has been constant current, but you have never clarified. you need to learn what the difference is.

 

[VetSmoke85]

Question for the future, what did you use for air circulation?

In here I used little 12V PC fans. AC Infinity USB fans are great. I use the 120mm ones in my tents now.

Edit: I had a 120mm USB fan for extraction through 4" can-lite filter.

 

[Simomas]

è la saldatura elettrica di cui hai bisogno. totalmente diverso dallo stagno. la latta non scorrerà elettricità e rovinerà la tua costruzione in qualcosa di orribile.

Ok, this confused me a little bit; to connect the DIM + and DIM- cables to the dimmer potentiometer, I don't need the tin? I followed Ledgardener's video where he does this job

 

[bluter]

Ok, this confused me a little bit; to connect the DIM + and DIM- cables to the dimmer potentiometer, I don't need the tin?

normally you would solder the wires on. the posts on the pot are usually too tiny to attach any other way.


there's a pile of stuff i'm not sure you understand.