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- #41
Yes, the driver I have chosen is a constant current driver
LED light construction for complete noob
- Thread starter Simomas
- Start date
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- #42
Ok I understand what you mean. The problem is linguistic, English is not my mother tongue.
We were talking about the same thing before, only I literally translated "saldatura a stagno" (which is how we call electric soldering in my country) and it got confusing, my fault
I thought that was the case and with the video referencing 'tinning' which isn't tin solder but the process of pre soldering the wire/component.
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- #44
Exactly, in addition in Italy (which is where I come from) we call electric soldering "tin soldering", and I thought that even in English the words were synonymous as we do.
So when Bluter told me I didn't need a tin solder, I got confused
No need to apologise for anything mate. It happens sometimes but we always get there in the end.Exactly, in addition in Italy (which is where I come from) we call electric soldering "tin soldering", and I thought that even in English the words were synonymous as we do.
So when Bluter told me I didn't need a tin solder, I got confused
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- #46
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- #47
Okay, I'm there. I had zero expectations of doing it..but I did it!
Aluminum plate 30x20mm, thickness 3mm. The LED strips are attached with the thermal adhesive tape.
Series connection of the 7 strips
The driver
And here is the light. It's unbelievable, I haven't connected the potentiometer yet so it's going full power which is 69.9W. The light it produces is absurd, I did not think it illuminates so much, it is impossible to look at.
Now I have to drill the aluminum and make the holes, but in the meantime I wanted to see if everything worked. A 500mA after a few minutes the aluminum becomes warm, but it could also be due to the fact that it was resting on the ground and not hanging
Aluminum plate 30x20mm, thickness 3mm. The LED strips are attached with the thermal adhesive tape.
Series connection of the 7 strips
The driver
And here is the light. It's unbelievable, I haven't connected the potentiometer yet so it's going full power which is 69.9W. The light it produces is absurd, I did not think it illuminates so much, it is impossible to look at.
Now I have to drill the aluminum and make the holes, but in the meantime I wanted to see if everything worked. A 500mA after a few minutes the aluminum becomes warm, but it could also be due to the fact that it was resting on the ground and not hanging
Congrats mate. Those strips kick out some light hey. 
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- #49
Ok guys, today I drilled the holes, and connected the potentiometer (badly). As I said I had never done a weld in my life, however I have succeeded so it is already a satisfaction. As soon as I have more time I will fix everything, however the potentiometer does its job so everything works. I also put electrical tape on the points to solder the wires of the strips (for those who don't use connectors) to avoid getting shocked.
I'll probably go to Ikea on Saturday and pick up the cabinet. And from here phase 2 of the project will begin
I'll probably go to Ikea on Saturday and pick up the cabinet. And from here phase 2 of the project will begin
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- #50
Small update: I bought an energy meter, to measure watts.
At maximum power it reaches 73.7W. But theoretically the maximum achievable should be 70W (20V per strip at 500mA)
At maximum power it reaches 73.7W. But theoretically the maximum achievable should be 70W (20V per strip at 500mA)
the ratings are also a bit ballpark. most drivers pull a little more or a little less than the printed rating. it's never enough either way to be an issue. all electrical equipment will do it unless we're talking massively expensive lab control.
decent.
it's a great first build build and shows what can be done easily with some research and a little effort. you should be happy with it but i doubt this is your last build.
if you did them on strips of aluminum slat or channel, you could separate them for better coverage, and build it sized custom for your space. it also dissipates heat better.
what you're shooting for is evenly spaced wall to wall light, so the plants have no where to run. qb's are kinda being shoved aside for strip lights now. the qb's are known to be center hot and act more like single source type lighting with dramatic edge fall off. led is super straight line directional.
it's a great first build build and shows what can be done easily with some research and a little effort. you should be happy with it but i doubt this is your last build.
if you did them on strips of aluminum slat or channel, you could separate them for better coverage, and build it sized custom for your space. it also dissipates heat better.
what you're shooting for is evenly spaced wall to wall light, so the plants have no where to run. qb's are kinda being shoved aside for strip lights now. the qb's are known to be center hot and act more like single source type lighting with dramatic edge fall off. led is super straight line directional.
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- #54
you did it. you put in what it takes to get it done. all we did is chatter a bit.
growing is about independence. you took a major step.
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- #56
Hi guys, today I have a slightly different question, I have a 40x40x120cm growbox available, the light I built would be perfect for this size, but what kind of ventilation should I use? Could I use a 120mm fan (like the ones from AC Infinity)? It would be enough? I like that type of fans because they are very quiet
Good morning @Simomas Hope your having a nice weekend.
4" fan in there is more than sufficient.
Stay safe
Bill
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- #58
Today I did some experiments, mounted my 40x40x120cm growbox and tested the light at different heights using it at 350mA/47.7W.
48cm (1.57ft)
274 umol/m2/s
18 DLI with an 18 hour cycle
20 DLI with an 20 hour cycle
35cm (1.14ft)
356 umol/m2/s
23 DLI with an 18 hour cycle
25.6 DLI with an 20 hour cycle
15cm (0.5ft)
480 umol/m2/s
30 DLI with an 18 hour cycle
35.3 DLI with an 20 hour cycle
I measured this data with the "Photone" Android app, it won't be very accurate but I have heard good things about this app.
I had no fan installed, the growbox was sealed and after about an hour the maximum temperature was 31.4C (88.52F) measured near the light. I would say that with the use of a fan it is a completely manageable temperature
I will grow mainly autoflowers, the maximum DLI should be around 40-45, but above 20 the plant should still be fine. I would say my optimal range will be around 30-35DLI
48cm (1.57ft)
274 umol/m2/s
18 DLI with an 18 hour cycle
20 DLI with an 20 hour cycle
35cm (1.14ft)
356 umol/m2/s
23 DLI with an 18 hour cycle
25.6 DLI with an 20 hour cycle
15cm (0.5ft)
480 umol/m2/s
30 DLI with an 18 hour cycle
35.3 DLI with an 20 hour cycle
I measured this data with the "Photone" Android app, it won't be very accurate but I have heard good things about this app.
I had no fan installed, the growbox was sealed and after about an hour the maximum temperature was 31.4C (88.52F) measured near the light. I would say that with the use of a fan it is a completely manageable temperature
I will grow mainly autoflowers, the maximum DLI should be around 40-45, but above 20 the plant should still be fine. I would say my optimal range will be around 30-35DLI
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- #59
Thanks mate, unfortunately the AC Infinities are nowhere to be found in my country, but on Amazon I found a 120mm one, powered by USB with 56CFMGood morning @Simomas Hope your having a nice weekend.
4" fan in there is more than sufficient.
Stay safe
Bill
you may need something with a little more power to pull through a scrubber unless you don't have to run stealth.
