Low Watts - High Yield - Let's Smash the 1 GPW Benchmark Together

Yes. It was sealed. It still is, sort of. I'm going to build a cap that will seal the intake when it's not in use. This intake feeds through 8" flex duct directly from a roof vent that's about 4' above the ceiling of the flower room. This brings in cooler air which is great for keeping the flower room cool on those nights when it's still too cool out to run the AC, but warm enough that the flower room gets warm with no AC (50-60* nights). It also brings in a river of co2 which is a luxury I didn't have before. Remember, it'll be sealed when not in use.

I don't have neighbors so I don't have to be as careful as the Urban grower (smell).

I see. Thank you. I did not realize your room was sealed. You don't use CO2 either? I can see how this intake will be a huge benefit for you! It's too bad you will lose it when it warms up. Do you intend to add CO2 enrichment later on?
 
I see. Thank you. I did not realize your room was sealed. You don't use CO2 either? I can see how this intake will be a huge benefit for you! It's too bad you will lose it when it warms up. Do you intend to add CO2 enrichment later on?

I agree that it will indeed be a benefit and I'll be able to utilize it from October - April... likely 7 months out of the year. When it gets hot(April-September) I'll lose it but I'm looking forward to seeing how much it helps as I'll get to pull March and April's tables before I seal the intake. I'm not planning on adding co2.
 
adding CO2 to a grow room is much easier than anyone may think. if you like wine / beer then buy a kit and brew it in your grow room --- the CO2 it produces will be soaked up by your plants. or just get a bucket put water and a lot of sugar in it with some yeast --- drill a hole in the lid and add an air lock --- presto instant CO2 system for under $5. put 4 or 5 buckets spread out around your room
 
I don't know of you already have any ideas to seal the ventilation when not in use, but they make ducting check valves that you could plug into whatever powers the fan. In your case you would use the "normally closed" ducting. Run the plug to the same timer and/or thermostat that your fan is plugged in to. When it powers up your fan, it will also send power to the check valve telling it to open. When power is cut off, it closes up. They are actually pretty cheap at lowes or Home Depot. 20 bucks or so.
 
I agree that it will indeed be a benefit and I'll be able to utilize it from October - April... likely 7 months out of the year. When it gets hot(April-September) I'll lose it but I'm looking forward to seeing how much it helps as I'll get to pull March and April's tables before I seal the intake. I'm not planning on adding co2.
'Fresh' air is at least 400ppm, which is significantly higher than the 250 or so that was normal on our pre-industrial world until 150 or so years ago. Weed grew well on that, and today's ambient air works nicely. Until you seal the grow room. I think that a CO2 meter is important in such, and will soon pay $120 or so for one. I'm hoping that heating my teapot with gas will add what I need, but reading the meter tells the tale. CO2 contributes the most dry weight to plants, of all the nutrients. No growth without it, but fresh air has always worked well for me till now. I don't live or grow in the 'sticks', and leaking stink brings heat I don't need.
 
I don't know of you already have any ideas to seal the ventilation when not in use, but they make ducting check valves that you could plug into whatever powers the fan. In your case you would use the "normally closed" ducting. Run the plug to the same timer and/or thermostat that your fan is plugged in to. When it powers up your fan, it will also send power to the check valve telling it to open. When power is cut off, it closes up. They are actually pretty cheap at lowes or Home Depot. 20 bucks or so.

Those things are cool. I was just pricing them though, and they are around $60. You can get a manual valve for less than $10, but you would need a place you can access the ducting. From the pictures it looks like only the register is showing in the room. An electric damper would work well in this situation for sure. I suspect 420fied doesn't want to spend $60 on the valve though. I think this grow is about maximum $$ efficiency too.
 
how bout a moonshine still :hmmmm::tommy::;):

adding CO2 to a grow room is much easier than anyone may think. if you like wine / beer then buy a kit and brew it in your grow room --- the CO2 it produces will be soaked up by your plants. or just get a bucket put water and a lot of sugar in it with some yeast --- drill a hole in the lid and add an air lock --- presto instant CO2 system for under $5. put 4 or 5 buckets spread out around your room
 
420! So I've had my cuttings in the aerocloner now for 17days and the roots are looking beautiful. I don't know how long it will take them to get long as yours are before you load em in the 2 liters but at this rate looks like I can wait until I get back from my cruise on Feb 28th. I am including a pic of the clones to ask if they still look good and healthy. On a side note my mothers have yellowing leaves. They are under cfls 18/6 and wondering if this is something to worry about. I thought it was Magnesium deficit but I added epsom salts and no difference the new growth looks fine but after a few weeks the lower leaves all seem to get this. Any thoughts?
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'Fresh' air is at least 400ppm, which is significantly higher than the 250 or so that was normal on our pre-industrial world until 150 or so years ago. Weed grew well on that, and today's ambient air works nicely. Until you seal the grow room. I think that a CO2 meter is important in such, and will soon pay $120 or so for one. I'm hoping that heating my teapot with gas will add what I need, but reading the meter tells the tale. CO2 contributes the most dry weight to plants, of all the nutrients. No growth without it, but fresh air has always worked well for me till now. I don't live or grow in the 'sticks', and leaking stink brings heat I don't need.

Fresh air in a rural area is around 700 ppm, in an urban area around 600. I think 420fied would be surprised what his sealed room is at. I have a meter and have determined these numbers myself. I've seen a sealed room less than 200 ppm. CO2 is the cheapest way to increase your yield, assuming you have plenty of light and temperatures in control, even cheaper than nutes.
 
420! So I've had my cuttings in the aerocloner now for 17days and the roots are looking beautiful. I don't know how long it will take them to get long as yours are before you load em in the 2 liters but at this rate looks like I can wait until I get back from my cruise on Feb 28th. I am including a pic of the clones to ask if they still look good and healthy. On a side note my mothers have yellowing leaves. They are under cfls 18/6 and wondering if this is something to worry about. I thought it was Magnesium deficit but I added epsom salts and no difference the new growth looks fine but after a few weeks the lower leaves all seem to get this. Any thoughts?
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Your roots look great. Some strains take a little longer. The clones look alright and should be ok until you get back from your trip. As far as your Mothers are concerned, I'm no plant doctor but that looks more like Potassium than Magnesium to me.

I'm sure you've seen this:

Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial
 
Hey bro, what a bad day today...
Don't wanna hijack your journal, so when you get some time, check out mine.....
Everything is fine now, but it was almost a catastrophe!!
 
adding CO2 to a grow room is much easier than anyone may think. if you like wine / beer then buy a kit and brew it in your grow room --- the CO2 it produces will be soaked up by your plants. or just get a bucket put water and a lot of sugar in it with some yeast --- drill a hole in the lid and add an air lock --- presto instant CO2 system for under $5. put 4 or 5 buckets spread out around your room

I don't know of you already have any ideas to seal the ventilation when not in use, but they make ducting check valves that you could plug into whatever powers the fan. In your case you would use the "normally closed" ducting. Run the plug to the same timer and/or thermostat that your fan is plugged in to. When it powers up your fan, it will also send power to the check valve telling it to open. When power is cut off, it closes up. They are actually pretty cheap at lowes or Home Depot. 20 bucks or so.

'Fresh' air is at least 400ppm, which is significantly higher than the 250 or so that was normal on our pre-industrial world until 150 or so years ago. Weed grew well on that, and today's ambient air works nicely. Until you seal the grow room. I think that a CO2 meter is important in such, and will soon pay $120 or so for one. I'm hoping that heating my teapot with gas will add what I need, but reading the meter tells the tale. CO2 contributes the most dry weight to plants, of all the nutrients. No growth without it, but fresh air has always worked well for me till now. I don't live or grow in the 'sticks', and leaking stink brings heat I don't need.

Fresh air in a rural area is around 700 ppm, in an urban area around 600. I think 420fied would be surprised what his sealed room is at. I have a meter and have determined these numbers myself. I've seen a sealed room less than 200 ppm. CO2 is the cheapest way to increase your yield, assuming you have plenty of light and temperatures in control, even cheaper than nutes.


Thanks for the feedback guys. The intake was installed primarily to draw in some cool air on those 45-60* nights. I'm curious to see how much the addition of a steady stream of co2 will help. I know growers run in the 1500 PPM range, but the 400-700 that fresh air gives me is bound to show me some increases. I'll keep you guys posted.

:thumb:
 
I completely understand the fresh air adding co2 and the benefits involved, but wouldnt this also increase humidity? I don't remember you saying if you had a dehumidifier in your room. Sorry if its an irrevelant question, just trying to learn as much as I can. This may be something I look into as well. Hope all's well in your neck of the woods.
 
I completely understand the fresh air adding co2 and the benefits involved, but wouldnt this also increase humidity? I don't remember you saying if you had a dehumidifier in your room. Sorry if its an irrevelant question, just trying to learn as much as I can. This may be something I look into as well. Hope all's well in your neck of the woods.



Hi steve,

Good eye and great question. Adding the fresh air intake will absolutely increase humidity. Right now, where I live, the humidity is low so the intake isn't adding much. However, as the weather warms, I'll have to start running my dehumidifier (I have one, I store it under table 2) and eventually seal the intake.

All is well here and I hope all is well in your part of the world too.

:thumb:
 
Happy Valentine's Day everyone,

I just want to pass along a few thoughts on the things I'm noticing with the new setup. As most of you know, table 2 which is about half way done, will comprise my first full table pull (March 22nd). Therefore, this is the first table where the light mover has utilized the entire 6' length of the rail for the entire duration of the run. Here are some things I'm noticing:

I have my bulb within 6 inches of the tops on table 2 with no sign of heat stress. This rivals air cooled hoods and I'm surprised that I'm able to keep them that close. I'm convinced that the oscillating fans blowing down the tables are the only way this is possible. You can see the black mark that I placed on the hood which represents the bottom of the bulb.

bulb_height.JPG


I'm noticing that the majority of the plants on table 2 are going to finish in the 11-13" range. I'm used to growing 20+" plants so it's a hard adjustment for me to accept but the simple fact is, that the mover takes away from their vertical growth. However, I am pleased with the bud development to this point. At first I was worried that the 6' rail would take away too much bud density but now I'm not so sure as the plants are adding weight nicely. I'll never see 15+ grams per plant again but I bet I can push 7+. We'll all find out together. Here's a nice sequence shot of table 2. Look at where she was less than a month ago and where she is today.

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I'm going to replace both of my hoods. I'm going to go with the 6" Raptors. The dimensions on the new hoods are 9" tall x 26 3/4" wide x 37 1/2" long. You guys are going to laugh but I'm going to buy them, bring them home, and immediately remove the glass and turn them into open air hoods. Leaving the glass on with no air running through would obviously create too much heat and I don't want nor do I need to add air cooling as my AC keeps my Flower room very cool.

By comparison, the cheap Quadray reflectors I'm running now are 22" x 22" without the side flaps I added. With them on the hoods are 22" x 28". Regardless, I want every advantage when pushing my GPW # and an upgrade in hoods is definitely needed.

The intake has knocked off 4* from my flower room temps. Before it was added the flower room would settle at about 78* with lights on. Now I'm noticing that it settles at 74*.

I'm still learning about co2 and at this point I have no way to measure the ppm in my flower room but plan to at some point. For you guys that run co2 or plan on it, here's a nice resource.

CO2 Calculator - Greentrees Hydroponics

I'm curious to see what kind of increase the addition of the intake will show me. While it's not the desired 1500 ppm, it's still bound to help. In the end, I may add co2. At first, I didn't plan on it, but after a little research, I'm starting to change my mind.

Enjoy your day folks,

Good Growing
 
I understand that I'm fairly new to all this, but with still over a month to go dont you think 7 is a little too conservative. Those girls look to Damn sweet for numbers that low. ???
 
7 is maybe a bit conservative, I'd guess it'll be closer to 8-8.3 per but do the math and even at 7... damn lol.

420fied looking epic as usual. Love the tips and notes.
Have u considered contacting the Hood manufacturer and seeing about just getting a replacement ordered for the pebbled aluminum insert in the Hood? It'd be kinda flimsy but you'd get the footprint u seek without the extra weight on the mover, or having to spend extra on the glass and housing. It'd probably cool pretty quick too.

Edit: I guess ud need something to hold the socket assembly then... herpdaderp. Sorry disregard haha
 
I understand that I'm fairly new to all this, but with still over a month to go dont you think 7 is a little too conservative. Those girls look to Damn sweet for numbers that low. ???


7 dried grams is a lot to pack on to an 11-13" plant. I had 6.2 grams on a 14" plant that I chopped and weighed earlier in the journal but to average 7 grams per plant will be a chore. Snow White is a good producer but not a monster yielder. It'll take all my tricks to pull 7-8 grams per plant, in my opinion.

However, I've made/ am going to make adjustments that will help a little like adding new hoods, the fresh air intake, etc. , so we'll see. I won't start taking baseline data until the April pull which will be the first full table of clonex dipped clones. It'll also be the first table where I get to plant all 154 at the same time which will allow me to keep the lights inched down close to them for the entire duration of the run.

By July, I'll have (4) full table pulls under my belt and we should all have a pretty clear idea of what my GPW # is. From there, I will fine tune until I feel I've hit my max.

In the end, if I somehow manage to end up averaging 8 grams per plant, that'll be consistently operating at 2 GPW which rivals vertical setups.

My gut tells me I'm going to max out in the 7-8 gram range.
 
7 is maybe a bit conservative, I'd guess it'll be closer to 8-8.3 per but do the math and even at 7... damn lol.

420fied looking epic as usual. Love the tips and notes.
Have u considered contacting the Hood manufacturer and seeing about just getting a replacement ordered for the pebbled aluminum insert in the Hood? It'd be kinda flimsy but you'd get the footprint u seek without the extra weight on the mover, or having to spend extra on the glass and housing. It'd probably cool pretty quick too.

Edit: I guess ud need something to hold the socket assembly then... herpdaderp. Sorry disregard haha

Thanks man. 8 is a solid guess. Once I start running some critical Mass I'm hoping I can increase that. CM definitely outproduces Snow White.

Definitely going with the Raptors. ;)
 
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