My seedlings are yellowing once again. Why am I cursed with this?

[bluter]

Why did this happen? And is this normal?

most likely compacted it with the watering practices. start off in a solo and up pot if you want more success. the current feed water approach is not working and i'd suggest a change. i'm not surprised the media compacted.

to begin stop using biobizz all mix to start autos. it's too hot. photos can handle it but not autos. it describes itself as a heavily nuted media. not a good thing for new growers or autos.

use a neutral media with no nutes added. especially if you want success with tricky autos. it will help teach to feed them from the get to. it's easier when there is nothing in the media and they depend on you.

i'd also stop growing autos if you wanna make stuff piles and piles easier. autos are super finicky and can be simple to fuck up. they will keel over when not happy and you lose the plant. photos you can get back to health without stunting or killing.

have a read through this on watering

The Proper Way To Water A Potted Plant

The Proper Way to Water a Potted Plant Also covered: the importance of pH and why we successively up-pot How to Water Over the last several years I have put a lot of study into this, and I feel that I can now define the proper way to water a potted plant. Keep in mind that this discussion...

www.420magazine.com

and this if you are going to continue planting in the final container

The Proper Way To Water A Seedling In A Large Final Container

In the beginning, you may even want to start your seed directly in the final container, simply by putting it one inch deep, pointy end down. It is surprising to some how often this works, even though mother nature does it all the time. If you go this route, lightly mist the area around the...

www.420magazine.com

hopefully we can get you turned back in the right direction.

 

[bluter]

I did not mix any substrate, never mentioned mixing any substrates together.

Yeah, that's why I mentioned "Then 2 gallons of 50/50 All Mix and Plagron Pro Mix on top, to have a layer of soft nutrients for the beginning."

which is it ? you keep contradicting yourself all through this thread. all we wanna do is get you going the right way, but we can't do it with conflicting information.

@Sunasun was correct in questioning what is going on with the media. he's not the only one confused by your posts.

 

[SmokingWings]

I feel like there's a huge language barrier here, maybe because English isn't my first language. Almost everything I say gets misunderstood, almost all the answers to my comments talk about something completely different than what I was saying.

I did not mix any substrate, never mentioned mixing any substrates together.

Yes. I get the feeling that you are not understanding the meaning of "substrate". Any material that a plant could be grown in is a substrate and any material that a plant already is growing in is a substrate. A substrate can be just one material or it can be a mix of two or more different materials or substrates.

The Bio Bizz All Mix is one substrate. The Plagron Pro Mix is a second substrate. When those two different substrates are mixed together it forms a new substrate.

Peat Moss is a substrate. If you were to put a layer of your All Mix and Pro Mix mixture and then a layer of Peat Moss and finish off with with another layer of All Mix and Pro Mix on top you will have layered substrates.

I have the feeling that what @bluter and @Sunasun are trying to say is that you have to pick one of these and learn how to use it. Learn its good points and bad points. Learn what it might need in the way of added fertilizers or single nutrients.

Learning to trust your soil goes a long way to success whether it is getting seedlings to grow or getting a mature plant to grow all the way to harvest.

In other words, once you learn to trust your soil it will fall into place.

 

[Sunasun]

Yes. I get the feeling that you are not understanding the meaning of "substrate". Any material that a plant could be grown in is a substrate and any material that a plant already is growing in is a substrate. A substrate can be just one material or it can be a mix of two or more different materials or substrates.

The Bio Bizz All Mix is one substrate. The Plagron Pro Mix is a second substrate. When those two different substrates are mixed together it forms a new substrate.

Peat Moss is a substrate. If you were to put a layer of your All Mix and Pro Mix mixture and then a layer of Peat Moss and finish off with with another layer of All Mix and Pro Mix on top you will have layered substrates.

I have the feeling that what @bluter and @Sunasun are trying to say is that you have to pick one of these and learn how to use it. Learn its good points and bad points. Learn what it might need in the way of added fertilizers or single nutrients.

Learning to trust your soil goes a long way to success whether it is getting seedlings to grow or getting a mature plant to grow all the way to harvest.

In other words, once you learn to trust your soil it will fall into place.

Well said.

 

[Acid]

Hey guys.

It's been around 2 months, and what can I say? Some good, some very bad news.

Good news first - Yes, I only used one substrate now. Biobizz Light Mix to be precise. Nothing else. I pre-moistened the substrate as recommended by Biobizz themselves. And what else did I do? I made a fifth "trial" plant, in a solo cup. Because what if my watering is just too much, too little? This will help me understand more about all of this. With this trial plant, I can 100% avoid any "dry spots" or "incorrect watering techniques". It exists to prove myself that it can't be the watering itself, and to use it as an example for other people to judge if it happens.. once again.

So that's what I did. 5 Plants, 4 of them in their final pots already, because autoflowers, 4gal pot. I know, not recommended, I should transplant. But I had the solo cup plant just to prove everything, especially for myself. So one in a solo cup, around 0.4L (whatever that in gallons is). All filled with Biobizz Light Mix.

I pre-watered said substrate with 4L of water for each 4gal pot, around 3 days before planting the already sprouted seeds. I let the substrate relax for that time at warm temps, as recommended by Biobizz, so it can activate. To this water I only added some calmag and epsom salts, to reach a 3:1 calmag ratio. It was fully calculated with my water analysis. 2.5ml of Calmag and 0.5g of epsom salts on 4L of water. That's all. Nothing else. Chill, relax, it's just a weed.

And - They grew wonderfully. Seriously, it was unbelievable. Especially the one in the solo cup looked like a 10+ day old plant at only 7 days of age.

Day 8 after sprout. Ignore the CO2 bag, it was a leftover from another grow:

As you can see, they were THRIVING. It was amazing. Considering that I pre-watered with a huge amount of water, they weren't watered until day 11 after being planted, so 13 days in total of no water at all, until the substrate lost a good amount of weight. I checked daily. The plants never drooped or anything, they showed no signs of "not enough water". The solo cup plant got watered on day 5, as it lost enough weight by then and the leaves showed the first small signs of "I need water", but they weren't drooping yet. Just tapwater, dechlorinated, at 6.5PH, taken from 1L of solution with the perfect ratio of cal/mag. Around 100ml of water. I really wanted to force them for once to show the symptoms of underwatering in some way, as I never had this happen before.

Sadly, on day 11 after sprout, I noticed something on the solo cup plant - Yellow new growth. This is exactly what I was scared of. Yellowing of the veins themselves on the newest side branch growth, with the leaf material itself still being rather green. This is how it ALWAYS starts, with the side-branches.

It came back, once again. But only on the solo cup plant, eh? It's just a cheapie seed, nothing to worry about. The others are fine! I thought, at least. I repotted the solo cup plant with AMAZING root growth (seriously, the cup was almost only roots, big white hairy roots everywhere) into ~4L of Biobizz Light Mix, maybe that might fix it.

On day 12 I started some light LST on my 4 main plants, as they were growing a bit too fast, which was good. Who doesn't like fast growth? PPFD/PAR at around 350 at this moment.

But while doing some LST, I sadly noticed that I'm cursed once again. First shaded by the leaf that I cut off of every plant (Don't ask, that's how I usually LST if plants grow amazingly), I now noticed that the growth I thought was fine, actually isn't fine at all. No, this growth didn't come after I cut the leaf off, in case someone wants to say that this is the cause as to why all my plants are literally dying now. I noticed it while cutting it off.

Yellow new growth.. everywhere. Not the "oh it's only fresh growth!", but the "Yes, I am once again f-ed" growth. But I didn't care, just as recommended. Just don't care, let them grow, water them if needed, chill. It's just a weed in the end.


And here I am today, not caring, just letting them grow, just chilling and not babying them, like everyone always recommends. Not directed at you guys, but generally at everyone who told me that they die because I do "too much". I only checked how light the pots were, and if they were light enough, I watered again. That's all I did. With water, calmag, and epsom salts. Because last time, only water didn't work. I also made sure not to get them too dry this time, as there's life inside the substrate. I always wanted to keep a small amount of moisture in the substrate here. Because in other attempts, I let them dry out more.

They haven't moved for around 6 days now. Everything is yellowing up, veins are bright yellow, growth is 100% stunted. I cut some brown edges off here and there, to see if there will appear more damage, and sure enough it appeared.

This is what I've been talking about for the past year, and now, just like in my first 3 or 4 grows where they all straight up died while I only watered and did nothing else, I didn't care and just did the least amount of things possible, besides the fact that I fixed my cal/mag ratio this time, with huge hopes of it finally fixing all the problems. Because back then in my first grows, I didn't fix my cal/mag, I just watered.

But I don't want to just be negative, I wanna share some things that might help some people, maybe give some clues. These things I did in the past 3 or 4 days, because they were not moving anymore anyways:

First of all - I measured the runoff of one of the plants today, even if it's useless in soil or whatever this counts as. Soilless? Soilless organics? No idea. If everything dies, you just check stuff. The runoff was at 6.9/6.95PH, confirmed by three PH pens, calibrated. I watered with a 6.5PH solution. Runoff was taken from a clean saucer, and measured directly after it came out the plant. Biobizz says to be at around 6.2-6.3PH with light mix, so I don't know what to do with these numbers now.

Secondly - I did try an epsom salt "top-dressing" on one of them, and watered it in. It didn't help. Why did I do that? Because every symptom hints at a Sulfur deficiency, I just don't know why or how this is possible. Yellow veins, stunted growth, no chlorophyll being produced, and and and. Epsom salts contain a good amount of sulfur, so I gave it a try on ONE of them, not all. If they all die, try it on one to see how it works out.

Thirdly - I have a PH soil probe. 9 out of 10 people hate it, and I used it. Because if everything dies, why wouldn't I poke a stick into my substrate? The PH soil probe read a PH of 6.2 in unused, fresh Light Mix, the same PH that it should have. When I poked it into the first 2 inches of the used substrate the plants were in, the PH showed around 5.0PH. The deeper I went, the lower the PH showed on the probe, all the way down to 4.0PH. Confusing to me, but someone else surely knows more. Especially confusing because the runoff measured 6.95PH.

Fourthly (Is that even a word?) - I did a squeeze test from one of the plants substrates. because if everything dies, why wouldn't I grab some of the substrate and just squeeze it into a cup? Some people feel insulted whenever I do stuff while the plants are at their last breaths, like come on, if a patient keeps dying for no reason, your job as a doctor is to find the hell out WHY he's dying, and you will try EVERYTHING in your last few attempts. So I squeezed it, and checked the PH, which came out to 5.5PH in the upper half of the substrate.

That's all the info I have right now. Did I do nothing this time? Almost, yes, besides the calmag and epsom salts. Did I keep it as simple as possible? Yes, I did. Did I try lots of stupid stuff at the end? Because they're almost dead anyways, so yes, I did!

What do you guys think?

 

[JiggiLotus]

Im no cannibis Dr. You need to stop listening to the people who tell you to stop babying your plants. You wouldn't let someone tell you how to raise your kid would ya? Same strange difference. I think you're babies need some zinc, iron. Maybe make them a micro brew. They look great, there's definitely something missing tho. It hurts to read how this hiccup can be slightly discouraging.

 

[Acid]

Im no cannibis Dr. You need to stop listening to the people who tell you to stop babying your plants. You wouldn't let someone tell you how to raise your kid would ya? Same strange difference. I think you're babies need some zinc, iron. Maybe make them a micro brew. They look great, there's definitely something missing tho. It hurts to read how this hiccup can be slightly discouraging.

Yeah, something is just completely off. The problem is that this symptom has been chasing me for 1 year now, I killed around 50+ plants in this past year, with only 2 survivors. One I saved with TONS of foliars, don't know how that worked, it was small in the end though, and another one just.. grew straight through everything. Not one deficiency, nothing. Also only Light Mix, didn't change a thing there. 12L final pot, autoflower, and it just grew and grew. Trust me, I was scared the whole grow, yet nothing happened at all. It was amazing & my best grow experience ever.

I wish I knew what exactly is off, so I could fix it. I hear you shouldn't care about PH with Biobizz, but I feel like I really need to care about PH right now, as something just seems to be locked out or something. Otherwise I have no idea, as there can't be a lack of anything so early on? I'm just confused, been confused for a year now, it's tiring, especially because I love these plants and their flower-smell just so much. Yet I'm permanently chased by this exact single symptom, which is that bright yellow new growth coming out everywhere at once.

 

[JiggiLotus]

I do apologize I do not know what the epsom salts are for. I haven't ever used cal/mag or salts. I would definitely consider making a gal (4 L) of compost tea. Coffee grounds and banana peels. Cut the peels up. Only maybe 2 tbsp of ground coffee, let them seep in the water a few days. 2 to 3. Use the water from the coffee bananas. It'll give the plants potassium and zinc an nitrogen. Your soil might be too lite. Gawd I wish I could be more helpful.

 

[Roy Growin]

Think you may be over-complicating things and confusing yourself
Are you feeding 2ml/L Grow + Alga/Zyme?
Keep it simple

 

[Acid]

Think you may be over-complicating things and confusing yourself
Are you feeding 2ml/L Grow + Alga/Zyme?
Keep it simple

Haven't fed anything this time, as everyone told me to keep it simple. They were only 10-12 days old when these symptoms appeared, and Light Mix is usually good for 2+ weeks, especially because it's such a large pot. As you said, I kept it VERY simple this time, even though I added calmag and epsom salts this time. I had several attempts where I started light feedings early on, but with no success.

But I just had a reasonable and weird thought - Biobizz recommends to keep the substrate rather "warm" because of the microbial activity.

Back when I had my huge successful plant, I had a filter on my exhaust system, while another smaller auto was finishing the flowering stage. Just tiny airflow, enough to cause some slight negative pressure with the filter attached to it. I remember that my autoflower had warm substrate, it didn't feel "cold to the touch".

Now in my past grows, the substrate was always cold to the touch, like cold water from the tap, even with environmental temperatures being in the 75-78°F range. Somehow the airflow cooled down my pots severely, and I just thought about this.

I now shut off my exhaust, obviously humidity and temps rise by doing this, so I leave the upper corner of the tent open for some passive airflow, and the fan running inside. My substrate is suddenly warm again, and not cold to the touch.

Am I onto something here?

 

[Sueet]

Are you putting cal-mag and epsom in every time you water? Are you putting the cal-mag in and letting it sit for some time (at least ten minutes) before adding anything else? (yes that is how it should be done)

Is the epsom the only food you are offering? - ok you answered this already, your plant needs food. ASAP.

On your 'firstly' - Now you know why most of us say it is pointless to check that in soil. All you are getting is bits of soil running out in your liquid and the numbers are never correct.

Secondly - epsom is more commonly used as a once in a while thing, (usually see it recommended at once a month or so - and for particular reasons, it isn't a complete plant food) I haven't heard of using it the whole way thru a grow, and I think this could be a real problem.

Thirdly - now you know why people hate soil pH probes. It's money spent that does ... something, just not sure what. It's not genuinely helpful in a soil grow imo.

Fourthly, yes that is a word. Or if it isn't, idc because I use it anyway. Anyway, as above, checking the pH of the substrate isn't very helpful in a soil grow. It's more important to be checking the pH of the fluids each time you are about to add them, and adjusting that. Let the soil do what it is designed to do.

 

[Roy Growin]

Am I onto something here?

Yep
Good thinking

 

[Acid]

Are you putting cal-mag and epsom in every time you water? Are you putting the cal-mag in and letting it sit for some time (at least ten minutes) before adding anything else? (yes that is how it should be done)

Is the epsom the only food you are offering? - ok you answered this already, your plant needs food. ASAP.

On your 'firstly' - Now you know why most of us say it is pointless to check that in soil. All you are getting is bits of soil running out in your liquid and the numbers are never correct.

Secondly - epsom is more commonly used as a once in a while thing, (usually see it recommended at once a month or so - and for particular reasons, it isn't a complete plant food) I haven't heard of using it the whole way thru a grow, and I think this could be a real problem.

Thirdly - now you know why people hate soil pH probes. It's money spent that does ... something, just not sure what. It's not genuinely helpful in a soil grow imo.

Fourthly, yes that is a word. Or if it isn't, idc because I use it anyway. Anyway, as above, checking the pH of the substrate isn't very helpful in a soil grow. It's more important to be checking the pH of the fluids each time you are about to add them, and adjusting that. Let the soil do what it is designed to do.

Here's what I did:

Tapwater -> airpump with diffusor stones -> 24 hours.

Get tapwater, get calmag, shake calmag like me when I was shaken as a baby, which is why I apparently can't grow a weed now, add it to the water, stir heavily, wait 5 minutes (I usually only wait 5), then I add epsom salts, and stir until they dissolve. That's how I usually do it.

Yes, I added epsom salts twice this grow, to correct my calmag ratio with tiny amounts of epsom salts (0.5g on 4L) and calmag. This was my first attempt at doing this, otherwise I only added them in my only successful grow, without calmag at all.

About food - I don't know if I mentioned this already, maybe way back into this thread - I tried All Mix (Highly amended), and Light Mix (Seedling mix, slightly amended), both showed the same symptoms between day 10 and 15, that's when it starts 9 out of 10 times, otherwise a bit earlier or later.

Interesting side fact - It doesn't matter how much or little food I add to the plants while they're dying, they do not show any deficiencies or excess in that case, besides the severe yellowing of new growth. As if the roots are.. dead. They just don't take anything in anymore.

Edit: And now that I think about it, it makes sense with my upper comment again. If soil temperature is too low in organics, the microbes stop working. Nothing will be taken in, as there's nothing for the roots themselves. I think I might have actually fixed my year long problem.

And yeah - I now understand why measuring PH in organics is just pure chaos, as nothing makes sense at all. Whatever I measure, it's different every time.

 

[Sueet]

I'm kind of wondering if there is some excess something coming in with your water, maybe take a sample to a local fish store and get it tested ?
I feel like cal-mag should be used less frequently too, until the plant/s are larger. Possibly might even be enough in your water already for young veg state. This *could* be the root of your problem, if your water has plenty and you are adding more, it could lock out several things, which would explain the plant never taking in foods once this begins happening.
As for yellowing on that solo cup plant, if the roots were as excessive as you say, then the yellowing could have simply been a complaint about space, they do get a little mad when they run out of room.

 

[013]

Finally circling back around big daddy!

Ok this is for next time but…. please step away from the biobizz and go with plain coco coir! Ha that’s an easy enough fix but seriously it has been a consistent factor in each grow and one you should eliminate…! Buy a few bricks of coco and we can hook you up to get it washed and buffered properly

Also please do not make garden decisions based on $10 cheapie soil probe. Seriously toss that biotch and buy 4 dowel rods for moisture meters and don’t water or feed anything until pulling the dowel rod to see what’s going on moisture wise below the surface. The precise moisture level of each bag will be recorded on the dowel rod / dipstick easy for you to see. Also if you are testing ph of your liquids then you need a real ph pen or a ph dropper test kit… not a soil probe… Embarrassed to say but yup I bought cheapie 3 way light, moisture & ph type soil probe way back when and now mine is serving time by the grill for roasting hotdogs & marshmallows.

Ignore the runoff values, yes you can run a grow by runoff numbers Wastei has proven that but he’s heck of serious grower and knows how to counter whatever pops up. But as new grower we are telling you to ignore testing runoff and stick with testing ph values of your inputs liquids before you feed. Later once you master things then feel free to tag up to learn more stuff but for now the kiss method applies. Yes sir or ma’am Acid you know the deal (keep it simple stupid)

Whoa added epsoms to correct your cal mag ratio? Correct it for what? Cal-mag alone does the trick so there was no call for epsoms…heck there’s not always a call for cal mag on a young plant plus I could be wrong here but I’d imagine one could easily epsom salt a young plant to death. The main thing you need is not calmag but NPK cuz that biobizz isn’t up to the task.

To me it appears you are underwatering, looks as if there are dry pockets in the media. The closer you get to 84 F degrees for room temp the better your plants will respond. What kind of floor is under the tent? If the floor under the tent is tile or concrete slab could be cold feet..

yeah adding nutes to a dying plant is lost cause how bout we prevent the dying part? Stop everything else, no YouTube, no topping, no training, no brewing, no foliar, no nothing and let’s go with just nutes and water until we can get that part working right. Once she’s kicking ass & taking names for a few weeks steady- then it’s time to open up the toolbox.

Wrapping up my friend… look I know above sounds harsh but it’s never intended that way. Truly I do feel your pain and hope we can help turn this thing around for you

Later gator!

 

[Acid]

I'm kind of wondering if there is some excess something coming in with your water, maybe take a sample to a local fish store and get it tested ?
I feel like cal-mag should be used less frequently too, until the plant/s are larger. Possibly might even be enough in your water already for young veg state. This *could* be the root of your problem, if your water has plenty and you are adding more, it could lock out several things, which would explain the plant never taking in foods once this begins happening.
As for yellowing on that solo cup plant, if the roots were as excessive as you say, then the yellowing could have simply been a complaint about space, they do get a little mad when they run out of room.

Yeah I had several attempts without calmag, but it didn't work, which is why I tried it with a fixed calmag / epsom salt ratio this time, to see if that was the cause all along. But it wasn't. The solo cup plant got transplanted to ~1 gallon of substrate after 11 days I think, and it just got worse and worse afterwards again. Just tapwater for her.

I'm not fixating myself on this "low soil temp" thing too much now, and I will keep watching on what happens. I will also order a real water test now to get my water chemically analyzed. The shops here don't offer that stuff, they just use strips with colors on them. Yeah.

Finally circling back around big daddy!

Ok this is for next time but…. please step away from the biobizz and go with plain coco coir! Ha that’s an easy enough fix but seriously it has been a consistent factor in each grow and one you should eliminate…! Buy a few bricks of coco and we can hook you up to get it washed and buffered properly

Also please do not make garden decisions based on $10 cheapie soil probe. Seriously toss that biotch and buy 4 dowel rods for moisture meters and don’t water or feed anything until pulling the dowel rod to see what’s going on moisture wise below the surface. The precise moisture level of each bag will be recorded on the dowel rod / dipstick easy for you to see. Also if you are testing ph of your liquids then you need a real ph pen or a ph dropper test kit… not a soil probe… Embarrassed to say but yup I bought cheapie 3 way light, moisture & ph type soil probe way back when and now mine is serving time by the grill for roasting hotdogs & marshmallows.

Ignore the runoff values, yes you can run a grow by runoff numbers Wastei has proven that but he’s heck of serious grower and knows how to counter whatever pops up. But as new grower we are telling you to ignore testing runoff and stick with testing ph values of your inputs liquids before you feed. Later once you master things then feel free to tag up to learn more stuff but for now the kiss method applies. Yes sir or ma’am Acid you know the deal (keep it simple stupid)

Whoa added epsoms to correct your cal mag ratio? Correct it for what? Cal-mag alone does the trick so there was no call for epsoms…heck there’s not always a call for cal mag on a young plant plus I could be wrong here but I’d imagine one could easily epsom salt a young plant to death. The main thing you need is not calmag but NPK cuz that biobizz isn’t up to the task.

To me it appears you are underwatering, looks as if there are dry pockets in the media. The closer you get to 84 F degrees for room temp the better your plants will respond. What kind of floor is under the tent? If the floor under the tent is tile or concrete slab could be cold feet..

yeah adding nutes to a dying plant is lost cause how bout we prevent the dying part? Stop everything else, no YouTube, no topping, no training, no brewing, no foliar, no nothing and let’s go with just nutes and water until we can get that part working right. Once she’s kicking ass & taking names for a few weeks steady- then it’s time to open up the toolbox.

Wrapping up my friend… look I know above sounds harsh but it’s never intended that way. Truly I do feel your pain and hope we can help turn this thing around for you

Later gator!

Thanks for the answer! I did try coco already, it was canna coco professional plus, with canna coco nutrients. I later arrived at the same exact symptom, here is the coco plant, everything always got checked with an EC Meter and my Apera PH20, with distilled water + calmag:

About PH - I own an Apera PH20, and two mid-range pens that go into the X.XX PH range. All 3 are calibrated weekly with a 2 point calibration, and they all show the same PH, so I hope they're correct. The soil probe is just a gimmick I had laying around. I just mentioned it here because I have nothing else to test soil PH, but as I learned it makes no sense anyways.

Epsom salts - Yes. My Calmag ratio in my tapwater is 49mg/L of Calcium, and 5mg/L of Magnesium. I used a cal/mag calculator with my tapwater analysis, so I get to a 3:1 cal:mag ratio with some calmag, and small amounts of epsom salts, like 0.5g on 4 or 5L of tapwater. Epsom salts are new though, I haven't used them in past grows, same for calmag. I started my first several grows with just tapwater, substrate, lamp, and tent. As simple as it can possibly be. They all died from this symptom, so I seeked the cause, and ended up with calmag, epsom salts, and tried myself through coco too, and inert peat moss with advanced nutrients once. Each and every plant had the same symptom, as shown in the example images.

Watering - My current plants are being dunked in a pot with a light solution at 6.5PH, and they kept dying more and more. But here's the thing - I dunked them in warm water. They perked up for a few hours, and then kept looking sad again as soon as everything cooled down. This is where I'm still thinking about my "the substrate was way too cold" theory, as it was around 50°F around and inside the substrate (organic).

Floor - It's all wood here. The plants are standing on pot raisers, with saucers below them, they luckily do not touch the ground at all, because it's indeed rather cold on the floor. I live in a climate with 44°F being the average temperature. The lungroom is at around 70°F though!

I know you're trying to make it as simple as possible for me, and I wish that would have worked. I see so many people just adding water and nutrients, and that's it. Their plants just grow. I did this for several months, because I thought I'm just overwatering or underwatering, and tried to master that. All my plants kept dying from this symptom, didn't matter which version of watering I tried. And now back to the beginning - that's how I slowly adapted to other methods, like calmag, epsom salts, then coco, inert peat, then humidifiers, and and and. And in this latest grow, I switched back to just Biobizz Light Mix, water, and epsom salts / calmag. Nothing else. And they died once again. "Died" not literally, but they have not moved for almost 7 days now, which is pretty much lethal for autoflowers. And yes, I had the same happen to photoperiods too.

Most recent full image, all having the same exact symptom (Yellow veins, yes veins, not the leaf material itself, no chlorophyll being produced at new growth, blotchy):

It's all strewn around this whole thread, but I didn't start with this kind of grow. I started with the basics, and reaped death. I then changed techniques, and reaped death. Trust me, I am hopeless, clueless, and I currently have lots of hope in my substrate just being way too cold. I won't fixate on it though, I just see it as a possible fix.

 

[013]

Oh my…. Ok cool on the good ph meters whew I thought it was only the probe type so apologies my friend- totally my bad!! Ok you did the coco thing too with not much success. Wow crap you’ve been thru the wringer.

Dunking may be part of your problem, might need to dunk in plain water but also top feed… you want fresh oxygen chasing that nute laden water down, plus calcium is known to drop out anyway so it needs to go in from top

Yes definitely add a table or few pallets whatever to raise the plants, the floor is coldest point in any room. Dare ya to put a hygrometer on the floor.. let’s see what that temp number is.

You are fighting low temps and that the begs question what’s your rh? Needs to be high rh for veg but in line with VPD charts. Nutrient uptake is definitely hindered by low temps, what can you do to bump up? Electric oil filled heaters are pretty effective.

That’s the other thing… for indoors it’s not enough to monitor enviro- you must control it! Let’s get that temp up and see what’s what.

It may take entire 420 collective but will get ya fixed sooner or later hopefully sooner of course!

Hey gotta roll - peace out & catch up soon!

 

[Wastei]

Coco coir needs to be buffered at least 12 hours before use with Ca/Mg solution. You're using way to big containers for growing in coco coir. Add perlite for better aeration.

Follow recommendations and you will see great results. Cannabis is a tropical plant and can't grow under 50F, that alone will shut down uptake of nutrients and stop transpiration.

Create a better environment for the plants to grow, you're not growing potatoes!

Cheers!

 

[013]

Read this few weeks back but couldn’t find it in time last nite. Anyways totally related so without further ado - please see post #3588 over at Gee spot- here’s link Post from G spot journal

 

[bluter]

anyone else having issues with the bio-biz site ? i went to look for info on the media and keep getting re-directed to a scam site.