Picking Up A New Hobby! 4x4x6.5 Indoor Tent

[MrDabFace]

ok - you're not a potted plant you're coco. coco is nothing like soil - soil rules do not apply.


you need to keep coco wet. can be fed from once to multiple times a day depending on stage of growth. most coco runs a feed/ feed/ water or feed/ feed/ feed/ water schedule. most nutes will be fed between 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended strength on the bottle chart. feed/water til about 10% runoff.

ph to 5.8.

off the hop i'm gonna ask @Pennywise to maybe chime as i know he has coco experience. now that i see @multiVortex hanging about i'll shout to him as well. don't think he's run coco a while though.

you look dry and a bit under fed on the clone. a dome coulda been an idea but the new growth suggests you caught no matter.

seedlings look dry but not bad looking. they are just at the point they might need a very very light feed. they are a bit stretchy - run your light at approx 60% at about 24 - 30 inches from the tops of the seedlings / clone.

welcome to the ride.

I was not going to be using any nutes with the natures living soil and was maybe going to do a tea do you think ill need nutes with this super soil? I can def start watering every day.

Water/feed coco everyday, never skip a day. I start seedling/clones around 5.8 and I’ll go as high as 6.2-6.3 in flower. I don’t use domes on any of my seedlings/clones. Don’t be afraid to turn up your lights. The thing that harms them is heat.

When talking about PHing to 5.8 The Natures Living Soil people had mentioned 6.5 ph now I know the plants are not hitting the natures living soil yet so should I still ph to 5.8.

And just feed the plant until the plant has water coming out the bottom. I did put a moisture meter in there and its still showing the pot as moist but i do see some dry spots.

Thank you both for the help!

 

[Pennywise]

If the water level is high enough and you’re using air the net pit should be getting enough moisture.

 

[MrDabFace]

If the water level is high enough and you’re using air the net pit should be getting enough moisture.

I'm not sure I quite understand

Let me know what you think about the PH ill get some water ready to feed this baby

 

[Pennywise]

If you’re hydro 5.8-6.2

 

[MrDabFace]

I was just doing 1lb Natures Living Super Soil on the bottom with coco mixed 1/3 down then i topped with coco in a 5 gal smart pot

I was phing the water at 6.5 and feeding when the pot was dry if i need to be feeding daily i have no problem doing that from what i was reading here is seemed like it was an every 2 or 3 days watering

 

[bluter]

you're coco with a franken mix. you can do living soil or coco. mixing is a recipe for disaster. you've mixed two different types of media and growing style. good luck.

 

[MrDabFace]

you're coco with a franken mix. you can do living soil or coco. mixing is a recipe for disaster. you've mixed two different types of media and growing style. good luck.

ah okay from that article it seemed pretty straight forward just water when dry? Will see how it goes maybe next run Ill need to use a different method will see im sure this will work out just fine.

What current method are you using if you dont mind me asking or what method would you recommend?

 

[bluter]

i'm in hempy. a similar approach to coco.

what you're doing is called a hot/cold mix locally. both top and bottom mixes need amendments to make it work. it is more of a soil / promix type of approach. it is not easy for beginners and can blow up on you if not careful. it was designed to mimic a straight organic grow, but really is not organic.


in a hot /cold mix you would not normally have to add a lot of bottle nutes if any.

 

[bluter]

for the most part you should be able to just straight water. i can't make the call where to ph. living / organic soil generally does not require ph'ing. make note living soil does not necessarily mean organic any more.

with the coco added in it makes it a tough call.

locally a hot/cold mix would have a little osmocote top dress, or some organics added in to a promix type media on top. and a nuted or home cooked soil on the bottom. it is meant to be watered only, similar to organic grows, but is never really organic.

ask @Nunyabiz what a true living organic soil is. maybe he can suss a ph for you too.

 

[Nunyabiz]

Sounds like you're mostly in coco with a little kick.
Seems like you should be giving nutrients of some sort until the roots hit the bottom.
Even just some worm castings on top and water in with a nice tea. And water everyday.

Id probably fluctuate the pH from 5.8 to 6.4.

Kinda hard to say though, if that small amount of soil in the bottom can't supply enough nutrients through to harvest then you may have a little trouble balancing out what it needs.

 

[MrDabFace]

So a couple new issues came up. I took your guy's word and upped the lights the plants seemed to like it but my tent went up to 90 degrees! I added a second fan that I had outside the tent to the inside so I have a tall standing fan that moves around and I have that desktop fan and a clip fan at the top pointing over the light toward the inline fan that pushing air out the top. I just bought a second inline fan I think ill put on the left bottom to push air inside the tent.

Now that I moved the tent inside I'm kinda thinking shit i should move it back outside and I should be able to keep up with the cold temps. but the hours the lights go off it will be somewhat cold. Idk what to do in the meantime I turned the light back down to bring the temp back inline until i can get the inline fan Wednesday.

Im all over the place lol. Will just ride it out and see how this second inline fan works

 

[MrDabFace]

By lowing the lights and moving the fans around we are now down to 85ish so we dropped 5 degrees i think it was mostly due to the lights being turned down.

 

[corytheghost]

Hey @MrDabFace!

I find a 6-inch clip fan very useful for pushing cool air around. I also have my intake inline fan coming in from the bottom to draw in cool air. I'm growing in coco/peat. It's certainly different than typical soil growing!

I'm excited to watch alongside this grow journal!

 

[multiVortex]

One of the other things I would like to dive into down the road is with owning a saltwater tank I have an RO/DI unit with the DI portion. Questions I have but haven't found solid answers for:

1. Can I use the RO Waste Water that I toss down the drain when I go to make my saltwater to feed my plants? Is it worth it, is it beneficial, does it make sense?
2. Can I use the RODI water that comes out for my saltwater tank. Remember its not just RO water its RODI water. Is it worth it, is it beneficial, does it make sense?
3. If i cant use the Waste water or RODI water I believe I can split after the RO Membrane and get water that is only RO Water. But again Is it worth it, is it beneficial, does it make sense?

Just things I think about when I'm trying to sleep at night

1) that's not how this works. not how any of it works. in reality, yes you can technically do that, but it's going to be an absolute disaster. RO wastewater is just that. Waste. You don't want that anywhere near your plants or anything else.

2) That could work, using RO/DI, but you'll need to rebuffer the water by using 1/4-1/3 tap water. So 2 out of 6 gallons in a bucket would be tap, 4 would be RO (no RO waste, but real RO) or RO/DI, etc.

3) No. Don't go getting silly.

(I'll have more after injecting with the quotes.)

Very dumb question how do you adjust the height as needed do you use a par meter do you just base it off the plants.

Sorry this may be a silly question

Use ratchet hangers. Good ones. Use one on each corner of the board, so if one breaks, you still have 3 to keep it in place.

That board is not overkill for a 4x4. It's just right.

A general guideline for the light overall is:
- Veg: 24" above canopy at 60% intensity
- Flower: 18" at 100%
- Flower last 3 weeks: 12" at 80% (increases intensity by lowering, but backing off the intensity helps curb heat

you're coco with a franken mix. you can do living soil or coco. mixing is a recipe for disaster. you've mixed two different types of media and growing style. good luck.

I know nunya touched this a bit, but bluter is right and this is a general principle that should never be overlooked: K.I.S.S. Or better known as Keep It Simple, Stupid!

There's way, way, way too much going on that just isn't going to play together nicely. More in a bit.

ah okay from that article it seemed pretty straight forward just water when dry? Will see how it goes maybe next run Ill need to use a different method will see im sure this will work out just fine.

What current method are you using if you dont mind me asking or what method would you recommend?

NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!

You must keep coco moist at all times. Letting it completely dry out is bad juju.




Here's what I'm seeing as an outside observer with the information you've given us so far. I can summarize it as, "Over-excited, new back to growing, and too many outside influences causing what has ended up as a money pit with a big potential for failure.

My goals are by the end of this post to:

a) stop the money pit and get spending under control
b) get you to a stable, reliable medium and operation
c) set you up to be successful and create repeatable results

Maybe I get there, maybe not. We'll see.


First, while you didn't seek out guidance beforehand, at least you are now. It's not so far in that you cannot recover from this, but you must make decisions quickly and then implement them immediately.


So right now you've kind of wasted a little cash. We could have saved you from that, but you're not in a terrible loss situation with the first light. Keep it as a backup, just in case your main light breaks. It won't be perfect, but it could at least save your grow while you get the primary light sorted. So while it was kind of a waste, at least there is a use for it.

While the HLG lights are nice, we could have saved you a bit of cash with a very similar (and many believe better) light setup.


Key lessons here are:

a) always have a spare part on hand. Fan, pump, light, bucket, etc. If something in your setup breaks, you want an on-hand spare to minimize downtime/loss.

b) if it's worth your time and effort to grow, then by all means do it right and put yourself in the best position possible from the start. foundations are everything.

c) when in doubt, ask a trusted, reputable grower (or growers) for advice.


You've also wasted a little bit on whatever that dirt is, plus the coco, and other gadgets. Most aren't really needed, others work fine, but really are a bit more fancy than necessary.

It's great to be excited about growing. I think most of us are, else we wouldn't be doing so. However, you also have to keep that excitement in check and keep those impulse buys down. That's probably the biggest way to escalate your costs: buying unnecessary crap.



Now for your growing medium. We have to get you unborked on this, and quick.

Medium - pick one:
- coco
- peat (promix, sunshine mix, etc)
- amended soil (water only, nutes in the soil)
- unamended soil (still have to use nutes in the water)
- other


Look, you may have grown a plant 10 years ago, but was it successful? While I'm unaware of what your experience then was, as of now it's almost like you're brand new to growing. That's not a knock, but just where we're at.

Taking that into account, I strongly suggest choosing an easy medium and grow style to start with. On that note, I'm talking about promix.

You will have to use nutrients in your water each time. No big deal. You will not necessarily have to pH your mix that you water with, but you may have to check some things if there is an issue. This is no different than true dirt, as it can be the same way.

Promix is watered like soil. You water every time to a 20%-25% runoff (meaning if it take 2gal of water to start to drip, run another half gallon through, etc) and wait for the pot to be light and dry before watering again.

Promix and a 5gal fabric pot works wonders, and can dry out within 2 days or so in flower. 7gal pots, while they work, don't seem to get to the dry cycle quick enough. In veg it really isn't a thing as the feed is mostly the same all the way through. However when you need to bump the feed weekly, you can be in for a big surprise when the pot isn't dried out enough. At which point you end up overwatering and the rest is history.

Specifically I'm referring to Promix HP. It has some perlite mixed in to keep it airy, and it works just fine.



Now for nutrients. For 4 plants, nutes won't be super cheap. In promix it won't be too terrible either, as you're only mixing enough water at one time to actually water the plants. Might be 10 gallons, might be 4, might be 12 or 15. Just depends on how much it takes to get where you need to be. Either way, still cheaper than if you were running a big hydro setup or something. Typically by 1/2 or even approaching 2/3, depending on the hydro setup capacity.

There are tons and tons of nutes out there. Fancy this, bling that, super shiney new whatever.

I suggest looking into the following ones to start with:

1) MegaCrop (1 part, dry nutrient measured in grams per gallon)
This isn't a bad option, although some people (very experience growers) do have issues with it. Me included, for full transparency. However, those issues aren't really going to kill off a new grower. They may in time, but not initially as they learn (or refamiliarize themselves with) how the plants grow and respond.

2) GH Trio (3-part base nutrient line, been around for decades)
This isn't bad, but some people do scoff a bit at it now since Gen Hydro was bought out by Scott's and the whole monsanto thing.

3) Advanced Nutrients - Base parts only (maybe a sup or two)
These are stable, and do work. They also have a laundry list of supplements, but you can do just fine with just the base nutes. Maybe calmag if needed, or perhaps a little bit of a bloom booster, but not much. The thing with big lists of bottles to mix is to remember that the base parts will have everything you need to grow a nice plant. The other bottles are what can, in the right hands, grow a much more impressive plant. Just remember, we're learning for the first several grows, and the more simple it is, the better.

4) Fox Farm trio
I haven't used these myself, but people do and they also work. Same type of deal as the GH or AN stuff though. Start out with just using the base(s) for the first few grows, then slowly add supplements over time and as experience increases.

5) TPS One
This is from True Plant Science, and is a 1-part liquid fertilizer. Similar in usage as megacrop, but liquid vs dry. Add X number of ml/gal, and that's it. (They also have a component series, but the cost difference isn't substantial and would only further add to the confusion. At some point a multi-part system may be in the cards, but better to keep it simple for now with as few parts as necessary.)



There are others out there, but these are a good place to start without wasting money and learning on the fly. If I were to rank the above 5 items, in your shoes but knowing what I do, it would look like: 5,2,1,3,4.

Why?

TPS makes very good nutes. Very precise, very clean. Reasonably priced, all things considered. They make an excellent organic calmag that has zero nitrogen, and their silica gold is, well, gold.

GH Trio second, even though it's a 3-bottle mix (micro, then grow, then bloom is the mix order). It's a tick more time consuming, but it's been around for decades and grown more weed than snoopdog could even imagine or try to smoke in his lifetime.

MC third as it's still an easy mix, even with the potential minor issues it can have. Those won't kill off a new grower, and they'll still get to the finish line. Maybe not as the winner, but with a decent showing at least.

AN fourth just because of cost. They're quite proud of their little bottles, although in bulk (we're talking like 6gal jugs) it gets a lot better. It's a 2-bottle base mix, but you need 4 bottles total. They like to separate them into veg A/B, and bloom A/B. This isn't a knock on their stuff, just an observation of the cost. I used it for a good while when I took a break from the GH trio. It was fine, just a bit more in the wallet than the GH trio.

Fox is last just from the standpoint of having never used it, and seeing new growers blowing up their grows with it. I have a feeling it may be a tick hot, even when you take into account that you should cut the recommended dose in half to start. (Speaking of which, any feed chart with few exceptions should always be cut in half to start. If it says 10ml/gal, use 5ml/gal, or whatever. Exception to that is megacrop, and the TPS stuff. They're actually good on their numbers, where GH/AN/FF/Others tend to be 2x what is really needed.


Notes to the above, just to reiterate. I've not run FF trio, nor do I plan to. I have ran the rest. I was on MC for a few grows, but had some issues with it that shouldn't have happened. I'm currently giving it one more shot, but so far it isn't looking promising. I've ran GH trio (with a few sups) for years. I've also ran AN for a good bit, but not near what I have the GH Trio. If all things were equal, I wouldn't have a problem running AN. I use several of the TPS sups right now, and will be starting their component series with the next run in my bigger rdwc (50gal setup). FWIW, I'm running 2 4x4's, and a 3x3. 1 of the 4x4's uses dutch buckets, the other 4x4 is rdwc. The 3x3 is a dutch bucket for summer, rdwc for winter.



Cost rank of the above?

1) MC ~3¢/gal (It's ridiculously cheap, and people get spoiled real quick)

2) GH ~12¢/gal

3) TPS One ~13¢/gal

4) AN ~18¢/gal (or more)

5) FF (no data, haven't done the math on that one as I have no interest in running it at this time)



Now to note, my general guideline up there is for my own setup, and I do factor in buying in bulk when/where I can if it makes any sense. Once you get settled into a nutrient line and are doing well, bulk is the way to go. Why buy a quart of something when a gallon is the same cost as 2, or even 3 quarts? It's like buy 2 quarts, get 2 free almost. Or however the math works out.

If you need to do your own math, look at the feedcharts, figure out how many plants you are running, cut the numbers for dose/amount in half, and go from there.

If you're off a bit, you're still using the same formula on them all. So maybe there is a margin of error, but it will give you a general idea of how much you'll use per grow, and what that cost will be for whatever nutrient.

(here's a hint: I base my costs off of a bit longer schedule, 8wk veg, 10wk flower. I use that same schedule for any nutrient line. I may only veg 6 weeks, or maybe a month, but there are times it just doesn't work like that. Also, a 10-week flower is an average of things I run. Many are 8 or 9 week flowering times, others can be up to 16+. I repeat the last week of veg, and last full nute week of flower, until I fill out my schedule.)

To get cost, I would use 5gal/plant/week as a starting point.
So dig up a feed schedule, then make notes as to how much of each base part (or only part) you would use per week (remember to cut the number in half for GH, AN, FF from the list above) and then add those numbers together. This gives you the total number of ml's/gal that you would use. Do the same for any other base parts to get those numbers.

Take that number, and then multiply it by the total number of gallons of water. So if you have 4 plants, 5 gal of water per plant per week, that's 20 gallons of water a week. (Not all at once, that's not what this is about. This is simple math, and if you water 2x a week if needed, there's 5 gal per plant total.) This will give you the total number of ml's used for the grow, not just per gallon. So if you'll use 125ml total of Part A from Acme Fertilizer, for 4 plants, that's 125*20, or 2500ml total. There are 3780ml in a gallon. Thus a gallon bottle would last about 1 grow, and the first third to half of the next.

Then you can finish up by taking the price of a bottle of whatever, dividing it by the number of grows it can be used for, and that's what it costs you per grow for that.





Yes, I realize I'm throwing a ton of info at you here. Can't be helped, but I'll cut it off for now.


You're just starting, so it isn't too late to do some gentle manipulation of the ladies and get them into some new digs.

Pick a medium (I still strongly suggest Promix HP), pick a fertilizer for that medium, and get it done.



Even a very experienced grower could have fits with what you're trying to do, let alone first time out. If you stay this course, and summarily bust, it very well could miff you off enough that you stop or fade out from growing. That would be a shame, a damn shame indeed.

Let's get you sorted and on track, and get some experience under your belt with this. Then once you're foundationally stable, if you want to mess around with weird stuff, have at it. Just don't make your tests your primary grow, just in case something happens.

 

[Nunyabiz]

You could do some version of the old Redneck AC

 

[corytheghost]

Thank you, thank you, thank you @multiVortex

This is some quality info..

 

[multiVortex]

There’s more, but my last name isn’t King, and I’m not drafting The Stand.

 

[multiVortex]

OK, obviously we need to discuss environmental concerns as well.


Let's start with air flow, and inside the box with the air that currently occupies the space.

Air Circulation

You need 2 oscillating fans. For a 4x4, you need them in opposite corners. Look for ones that have as close to a full 90* oscillation as possible. Many don't, and some are only like 60*. No bueno, but you can still make the best of it with those.

First off, do NOT, I repeat: do NOT, get the vivosun or secret garden fans that are made to clip onto a tent pole. The clip part is nice, the rest, not so much.

You can do 1 of 3 things in general:

1) Get a small, holmes lil blizzard fan. Get a "microphone stand tablet holder" to go with it. Tablet holder onto the tent pole, fan onto the holder. Voila.

2) Get oscillating clip-on fans, and make a little holder for them to clip onto and be positioned correctly. To make the holder, take 8" of pvc pipe (1/2" or 3/4" works, whatever you have on hand, but if buying scope out part cost and go with whichever is less), and put a 90* elbow on one end. Connect the junction side of a tee fitting to the elbow and position the length of the tee in the horizontal. Now you have a place for a clip fan to attach to and be oriented correctly. Hook the holder to a tent pole however you can. I use zip ties, but even a metal pipe clamp (with on-board key to adjust) would work.

3) Not great because lights and stuff will be in the way, but you could clip an oscillating fan to the top bars (the frame/edge, not cross bars) on opposing sides and pointed down.


You want these fans to just blow over the tops of the plants, and not beat them to death with wind. Some go as far as to get a dual outlet, programmable timer, and turn each fan on/off every couple of minutes to make a cross breeze, but nah, overkill IMO.


Next, we're not done inside just yet.

You need some type of air movement under the canopy too. I use a pair of little 9", stationary, usb powered fans. They're great. Gentle, but still good air flow. Plus using usb, cheap on the watts.



Next, you need a good inline fan for your exhaust. Highly recommend the AC Infinity Cloudline S6. It an inline, 6" fan. Stoutly made to handle pulling (or pushing) air through a carbon filter and associated ducting. They have 8-speed settings, and most times you'll be on like 3. However they are super quiet, and there will be times when you need to crank that biznatch up to full blast. Even at max power, it's only like 32w or something super low like that. Good stuff right there, don't leave home without it.

Carbon filter(s) are up to you. I have no idea where you are growing, what the laws are, etc. If you're concerned about smell though, do NOT skimp on the carbon filter. Cheap ones knock it down a good bit, good ones and not even the cops will smell it when they're standing in your kitchen. No shit, Chet. No shit.

So aside for a second, wife is up and headed out to work at her normal time. She's met by a cop as she opens the garage. They were tracking a suspect that was running, and they wanted to check the backyard. No problem, really. I have nothing to hide. She comes in, wakes me up (she leaves like 30 min or so before my alarm reminds me I've not yet won the lottery) and says there's a cop in the kitchen, looking through the backyard to see if they can see anything, etc.

So I roll out of bed, throw on pants, and stumble into the kitchen for pleasantries and such.

10ft below his feet were 6 late flower plants, and 6 more that were ready to flip once the others finished.


None the wiser, and he caught me by surprise. Didn't notice a damn thing.

Not that I care, I'm legal, but I also wasn't ready to give a tour of my garden and answer the usual non-grower questions at 6:30 in the feckin morning either.


/aside, back to business



Now, where were we? Oh yeah, don't cheap out on the carbon filter if you want/need to use one. Some people need to, some people want to, some people couldn't care less. I fall in the middle. I don't have to, but I'm not one to advertise either. And let me tell you, if I were flowering without carbon, you would smell it from blocks away.


You do not need an inline intake fan. Just use the vents on the bottom of the tent. However, you can't quite use them as they are. We need to protect the intakes from light, as well as pests smaller than the mesh the vents have.

What can we do that's cheap enough, but works well enough to handle it?

Carbon pads and velcro is your answer.

Specifically, something like a search on the zon for "cut to fit carbon pad", etc. I get a 16" wide by 48" long pad for $9. That gets me a tent or two worth of use. We're not using it for the carbon properties, but for it's light blocking power as well as trapping a little more dust/gunk than the little mesh screen on the tent intake.

Use stickable velcro on one side, stick it to the tent vent, and poof.

Finally, use either an empty box, piece of cardboard, extra lid from a big tote, whatever. Something to shield over that intake vent to block direct light. Just has to lean there close, let air through, but block light from above. A shallow box is great, but you can rig up whatever. Get it set up, turn the lights in the room on, lights in the tent off, and then get in the tent. See if you can see light coming through or not. A barely faint glow won't hurt, but absolutely dark is better. (The tent will have pin holes in it anyway from stitching. Even a bad-ass gorilla tent will. That's why you should keep the lights off in the room, too. Use a green rope light if you must.)


Now the tent is rocking and rolling. But how much vent open is enough? You want some negative pressure in the tent, but just enough that the sides start to suck in a tick. Adjust the intake vents to where they are just starting to suck the sides in. This negative pressure also helps keep smells inside, and ensures they only exit by travel ing through the carbon filter.


Humidity

You'll probably need a good dehumidifier. Mine isn't bad, does like 100 true pints per day, but is not so friendly on the wallet. Get one like that if you need to initially, but look to save up for a nice, small, commercial style unit. Way more efficient, and you'll save on the electric every month.

I try to keep humidity between 55%-65% for veg, and 45%-55% for flower. I don't really freak out in flower unless it hits 60%. Then I get nervous and look to decrease however I can.

If you really want to get into RH and chase perfection, look into the vapor pressure deficit for more info.



Temps

Temps aren't really tricky. Keep your daytime between 72F and 82F, trying for 76F-78F. Don't start sweating until it's 85F or higher, or lower than 70F.

Nighttime temps, you want to keep above 62F, preferable 65F. You definitely want a bit of a temp diff between day and night though.


You may need a space heater to keep temps up at night. I use 750w vornado ones that I set on 375w. I connect those to a "seedling heatmat controller". It has a temp probe that goes in the tent, you set your min temp, and plug the heater into it. Turn the heater to the on position, and then the controller handles when to turn the juice on/off.

Heater was around $20 or $30, controller around $20.





In general, try to not dump your exhaust right back into the room without some type of plan to manage it. I use another inline fan, sucking through a carbon filter, then out of the house through a side vent.

Easiest to to exhaust to the outside, or if not an option, exhaust to the next room.

In the summer/winter, your hvac should help keep temps ok. Spring/fall when those aren't running can test your patience. Be prepared. If you really had to, you could make a "lung room" with it's own cooling/heating/humidification/dehumidification. It's not hard, sound really fancy, but in practice not so much.



I think you've now got some good places to start.

 

[MrDabFace]

Oh man i feel like im on an episode of scared straight you better get your shit together or your gonna be fucked lol ahhahahahahahahha

Okay starting at the top

1) that's not how this works. not how any of it works. in reality, yes you can technically do that, but it's going to be an absolute disaster. RO wastewater is just that. Waste. You don't want that anywhere near your plants or anything else.

2) That could work, using RO/DI, but you'll need to rebuffer the water by using 1/4-1/3 tap water. So 2 out of 6 gallons in a bucket would be tap, 4 would be RO (no RO waste, but real RO) or RO/DI, etc.

3) No. Don't go getting silly.

(I'll have more after injecting with the quotes.)

Okay RO water is out lol Just questions I think about thank you for the clarification.

Use ratchet hangers. Good ones. Use one on each corner of the board, so if one breaks, you still have 3 to keep it in place.

That board is not overkill for a 4x4. It's just right.

A general guideline for the light overall is:
- Veg: 24" above canopy at 60% intensity
- Flower: 18" at 100%
- Flower last 3 weeks: 12" at 80% (increases intensity by lowering, but backing off the intensity helps curb heat

okay I have 2 clamps now but will by 2 more!

Thank you for the general guideline!


Seems like I made a huge mistake going with this supersoil. I researched watched some videos it looked straight forward even talking the the company that sells the product informed me running the pot dry or close to dry then watering was the way to use this supersoil and coco mix. I did research this and it looked pretty simple but from the comments in my grow it looks like I must of misread lol....


My main goal for this grow was to try to just do a water only but it looks like thats quickly turning into a nute grow which is fine it is what it is.

It's great to be excited about growing. I think most of us are, else we wouldn't be doing so. However, you also have to keep that excitement in check and keep those impulse buys down. That's probably the biggest way to escalate your costs: buying unnecessary crap.

im listening lol haha

Look, you may have grown a plant 10 years ago, but was it successful? While I'm unaware of what your experience then was, as of now it's almost like you're brand new to growing. That's not a knock, but just where we're at.

Extremely fair statement which is why im here

Yes, I realize I'm throwing a ton of info at you here. Can't be helped, but I'll cut it off for now.

I appreciate all of this.

Just went to my local grow store they only have PROMIX BX not HP. and almost everything else was Hydro or coco soils. I need to figure out a medium and quick. Ill see if i can prime something in 2 days along with nutes. I heard great things about the GH box set nutes from friends.

Sorry trying to read through everything make sure im answering everything this was great feedback.

 

[MrDabFace]

@multiVortex holy shit man I have tons to read through thank you so much! Let me read through this and answer your questions!

When looking at ratchet hangers whats not shitty lol they all seem to be around the same price ish some have better reviews but those seem to be the cheaper ones?


Thanks again