Possible nutrient burn, light burn or deficiency?

[SMCelite36]

Getting yellow/brown leaves and brown spotting on leaves, trying to fix it before it gets worse... Appreciate any help or advice, thanks in advance!

 

[con]

Getting yellow/brown leaves and brown spotting on leaves, trying to fix it before it gets worse... Appreciate any help or advice, thanks in advance!

looks like nute burn how far are your lights from the tops & what light strenth are you at PPFD DLI? what medium are you growing in?

 

[SMCelite36]

looks like nute burn how far are your lights from the tops & what light strenth are you at PPFD DLI? what medium are you growing in?

My lights are 400w and are about 16" away, I don't have any meter to measure light intensity at the plant level. The medium is Happy Frog with Nature's Living Soil mixed in, I top dress with 1 tbsp per gallon of Gaia Green flowering dry amendments every 3 weeks, and I bottom water with wicking pots with fish shit mixed in the water every watering, and molasses mixed in (1 tbsp per gallon) every other watering and the ph is adjusted to 7.0

 

[SMCelite36]

My lights are 400w and are about 16" away, I don't have any meter to measure light intensity at the plant level. The medium is Happy Frog with Nature's Living Soil mixed in, I top dress with 1 tbsp per gallon of Gaia Green flowering dry amendments every 3 weeks, and I bottom water with wicking pots with fish shit mixed in the water every watering, and molasses mixed in (1 tbsp per gallon) every other watering and the ph is adjusted to 7.0

And I also top dress with organic worm castings every 3 weeks.

 

[con]

My lights are 400w and are about 16" away, I don't have any meter to measure light intensity at the plant level. The medium is Happy Frog with Nature's Living Soil mixed in, I top dress with 1 tbsp per gallon of Gaia Green flowering dry amendments every 3 weeks, and I bottom water with wicking pots with fish shit mixed in the water every watering, and molasses mixed in (1 tbsp per gallon) every other watering and the ph is adjusted to 7.0

i know know Gaia Greens products but never used them i just use syn nutes so really can;t give to much advise there but kinda also looks a bit like a phosphorus defecency hopefully some one who grows with organics & self watering pots will chime in sorry i was not much help have you tried asking in the sip group?

 

[Janluna]

You may be getting nutrient lockout due to alkaline soil. Try adjusting the soil ph by lowering it to 6.0-6.2.

 

[Zephyrs]

My lights are 400w and are about 16" away, I don't have any meter to measure light intensity at the plant level. The medium is Happy Frog with Nature's Living Soil mixed in, I top dress with 1 tbsp per gallon of Gaia Green flowering dry amendments every 3 weeks, and I bottom water with wicking pots with fish shit mixed in the water every watering, and molasses mixed in (1 tbsp per gallon) every other watering and the ph is adjusted to 7.0

Hay your plant looks Great. I also top dress wi dry amendments on a LOS. From your pics it seems a Bit short on P&K, phosphorus and potassium. The bright purple stems kinda screams it. But could be genetics also.

I always top dress dry nutes every 12-14 days whether outdoor or indoor. I use Roots Organics uprising line of dry amendments. As Gaia Green isn't available in the U.S.

And a side note: Drop The Bottom Wicking watering!!!! That's a recipe for root rot. Water from the top, and allow a wet/dry cycle.. Cannabis thrives on that.

 

[SmokingWings]

I believe that it will be hard to stop what is happening but it can happen. It will be harder to reverse the signs of damage but if the damage stops getting worse then it is a plus. Figure out what is going wrong now and use what is learned during the next growing session so it does not happen when the plant goes into the flowering stage.

The medium is Happy Frog with Nature's Living Soil mixed in, I top dress with 1 tbsp per gallon of Gaia Green flowering dry amendments every 3 weeks

How many gallons of soil in the pots? Are there two plants? The pots do look a bit small for the size of the plants.

I bottom water with wicking pots with fish shit mixed in the water every watering, and molasses mixed in (1 tbsp per gallon)

Is that the stuff that is spelled FishSh!t (with the ! in the name) and is from fishheadfarm.com or is it something else made from fish?

and the ph is adjusted to 7.0

Is this the water's pH? If it is then it is best to get it down to as close to 6.3 as you can. If it is the water, do you measure the pH after you add any amendments but just before you are going to use it?

The pH of the Happy Frog soil is already set between 6.3 and 6.8 by the company. If the water pH is at 6.3 there is a better interaction between the soil, the water, the micro-organisms and the available nutrients. And a water pH of 6.3 reduces the chance that one or more of the nutrients is no longer available to the plant.

And, are you adding any Calcium or Calcium-Magnesium amendment?

 

[Janluna]

Drop The Bottom Wicking watering!!

This could done beautifully but also horribly. Never had an issue with bottom wicking. That being said, proceed with caution.

 

[SMCelite36]

I believe that it will be hard to stop what is happening but it can happen. It will be harder to reverse the signs of damage but if the damage stops getting worse then it is a plus. Figure out what is going wrong now and use what is learned during the next growing session so it does not happen when the plant goes into the flowering stage.


How many gallons of soil in the pots? Are there two plants? The pots do look a bit small for the size of the plants.


Is that the stuff that is spelled FishSh!t (with the ! in the name) and is from fishheadfarm.com or is it something else made from fish?


Is this the water's pH? If it is then it is best to get it down to as close to 6.3 as you can. If it is the water, do you measure the pH after you add any amendments but just before you are going to use it?

The pH of the Happy Frog soil is already set between 6.3 and 6.8 by the company. If the water pH is at 6.3 there is a better interaction between the soil, the water, the micro-organisms and the available nutrients. And a water pH of 6.3 reduces the chance that one or more of the nutrients is no longer available to the plant.

And, are you adding any Calcium or Calcium-Magnesium amendment?

It's 2 plants, both in 5 gallon pots, and yes, it's Fish Sh!t from fishheadfarms.com. I bottom water, so whenever the reservoir is low, I fill a pump sprayer with tap water, add the Fish Sh!t and molasses, check the pH, which is around 8.6, then adjust down to 7.0, since plants usually prefer a slightly alkaline pH during flowering. All I've been adding is the Gaia Green 2-8-4, and organic worm castings every 3 weeks, at the recommended amounts.

 

[SMCelite36]

This could done beautifully but also horribly. Never had an issue with bottom wicking. That being said, proceed with caution.

I may start doing some research on autopots, heard some good things.

 

[SMCelite36]

I believe that it will be hard to stop what is happening but it can happen. It will be harder to reverse the signs of damage but if the damage stops getting worse then it is a plus. Figure out what is going wrong now and use what is learned during the next growing session so it does not happen when the plant goes into the flowering stage.


How many gallons of soil in the pots? Are there two plants? The pots do look a bit small for the size of the plants.


Is that the stuff that is spelled FishSh!t (with the ! in the name) and is from fishheadfarm.com or is it something else made from fish?


Is this the water's pH? If it is then it is best to get it down to as close to 6.3 as you can. If it is the water, do you measure the pH after you add any amendments but just before you are going to use it?

The pH of the Happy Frog soil is already set between 6.3 and 6.8 by the company. If the water pH is at 6.3 there is a better interaction between the soil, the water, the micro-organisms and the available nutrients. And a water pH of 6.3 reduces the chance that one or more of the nutrients is no longer available to the plant.

And, are you adding any Calcium or Calcium-Magnesium amendmen

If you were in my shoes, what would you do, I'm just trying to get this fixed asap? From what I've read, the best thing to do would be to find a high phosphorus nutrient and make a tea, doing a mini flush to 20-30 percent runoff, then wait 2-4 days before re-amending the soil. I add worm castings every 3 weeks when I amend the soil, so idk how I'm getting such an extreme phosphorus deficiency. I definitely didn't have these issues last time I grew in DWC buckets, using liquid nutrients, I wanted to go the all organic route this time, but I guess this is what I get for trying something different... lol

 

[HappyHazmat88]

Hey sorry about the issue with your fluffy ass ladies. Your growing in a method I am unfamiliar with.... but a plant is a plant......I'm all for natural nutrients for babies so here's a few natural products for some of the nutrient things mentioned above.

For a cheap and natural phosphorus amendment I would try using bone meal sprinkled on top top of soil and then use a fork to blend it.

For a cheap but effective potassium you can make a tea with banana peals and wood(untreated)ash.

And last but not least Nitrogen, for a cheap nitrogen boost with some other micro nutrients you can use coffee grounds. Coffee grounds contain nitrogen and small amounts of potassium , calcium, etc. however with coffee grounds you would want to compost them as the caffeine and acid content of coffee grounds is pretty high...... Could also use blood meal for a natural right now mix in.

For the wick system I am not familiar....I see a bunch of growers here use it...and use it well....but as stated above there is a chance that root rot can set in as they will almost at all times be wet, which could cause rot and then followed by a lock out of essential nutrients.... Plus if I may ask how do your top dressed nutrients get water into the soil if the wick system is watering from top to bottom?( I may have missed the answer above).

Hope this helps.... My fingers are crossed for ya my friend

 

[SMCelite36]

Hey sorry about the issue with your fluffy ass ladies. Your growing in a method I am unfamiliar with.... but a plant is a plant......I'm all for natural nutrients for babies so here's a few natural products for some of the nutrient things mentioned above.

For a cheap and natural phosphorus amendment I would try using bone meal sprinkled on top top of soil and then use a fork to blend it.

For a cheap but effective potassium you can make a tea with banana peals and wood(untreated)ash.

And last but not least Nitrogen, for a cheap nitrogen boost with some other micro nutrients you can use coffee grounds. Coffee grounds contain nitrogen and small amounts of potassium , calcium, etc. however with coffee grounds you would want to compost them as the caffeine and acid content of coffee grounds is pretty high...... Could also use blood meal for a natural right now mix in.

For the wick system I am not familiar....I see a bunch of growers here use it...and use it well....but as stated above there is a chance that root rot can set in as they will almost at all times be wet, which could cause rot and then followed by a lock out of essential nutrients.... Plus if I may ask how do your top dressed nutrients get water into the soil if the wick system is watering from top to bottom?( I may have missed the answer above).

Hope this helps.... My fingers are crossed for ya my friend

I appreciate the reply, I'll take all the help I can get, I've came too far for things to go bad now, I gotta fix this asap. lol. I just sprinkle the bloom and worms castings on top of the soil, mix them into the top inch or so of top soil, then wash them into the soil with about a liter or so of water. I'm following Mr. Canucks method, he's a popular grower on YouTube, but it's not going nearly as smoothly as his. lol

 

[HappyHazmat88]

No problem, hopefully we can help you get it under control (which isn't to terrible to start) and prevent further issue.

So you mentioned " wash them into the soil with about a liter or so of water"... and the plant is being watered through the wick method.... This to me sounds like way to much water....aka drowning roots?! How long do you wait in-between waterings and how do you secondary check to see if it's "dry" or ready to water again.

 

[SMCelite36]

No problem, hopefully we can help you get it under control (which isn't to terrible to start) and prevent further issue.

So you mentioned " wash them into the soil with about a liter or so of water"... and the plant is being watered through the wick method.... This to me sounds like way to much water....aka drowning roots?! How long do you wait in-between waterings and how do you secondary check to see if it's "dry" or ready to water again.

There's a float valve on the side of the reservoir that tells you the level of the water, when it shows that the reservoir is empty, I refill it.

 

[HappyHazmat88]

There's a float valve on the side of the reservoir that tells you the level of the water, when it shows that the reservoir is empty, I refill it.

Ok, sorry I'm unfamiliar with the wick system.... My first thought outside looking in *again from someone with no idea about this* is even though the float valve is saying the "reservoir" is empty the plants medium could still be holding water.....see what I'm saying?

And do you dump the runoff water from reservoir after top amending? Letting plants sit in any water especially fert runoff could cause huge issues. The salt and build up of evaporated fert salts can burn and help rot the roots of left to sit in runoff.

I could be way off in my thinking just some outside insight.

How are things looking today?

 

[SmokingWings]

If you were in my shoes, what would you do, I'm just trying to get this fixed asap?

Interesting question. Once a plant starts flowering I now try to figure out what will keep any issues from getting worse since the time left is limited. As the plant enters the flower stage the root development slows down and the growth of new fan leaves stops while the plant continues to produce flower structure. How many weeks since the pistils/stigma started showing and do you know how many weeks of flowering?

The Gaia Green Bloom has a NPK of 2-8-4 if I am remembering right. Plenty of Phosphorous in that, probably more than the plant actually needs. By any chance do you have The Gaia Green All Purpose product with the 4-4-4 NPK numbers? I am thinking of giving a bit more Nitrogen and Potassium but trying to avoid you having to buy something new at this point.

You mentioned adjusting the water pH to 7.0 but soil grown plants do tend to grow better if the water is at a pH of 6.3 even though they will tolerate a somewhat higher pH. Is the 8.6 pH out of the tap or just after the Fishsh!t and Molasses?

I wanted to go the all organic route this time, but I guess this is what I get for trying something different... lol

There is a learning curve with anything new. Been there myself. It might take a couple of grows before everything falls into place but in the meantime every new grow should be getting better than the previous ones.

I'm following Mr. Canucks method, he's a popular grower on YouTube, but it's not going nearly as smoothly as his. lol

He has been at it for awhile so most of the bugs have been worked out. And I doubt that he will put up a video of a failed grow unless it also included the way to fix the problem.

 

[SmokingWings]

As Gaia Green isn't available in the U.S.

It is. Might not be available in a lot of stores but they have two US phone numbers on their Contact web page. I checked their Store Locator web page and found a store here in the southern area of Michigan. Also noticed something about being able to buy Gaia Green products through Amazon if need be.

Just now found a web page on the Gaia Green web site:
Gaia Green taking root across America

 

[Zephyrs]

This could done beautifully but also horribly. Never had an issue with bottom wicking. That being said, proceed with caution.

It is. Might not be available in a lot of stores but they have two US phone numbers on their Contact web page. I checked their Store Locator web page and found a store here in the southern area of Michigan. Also noticed something about being able to buy Gaia Green products through Amazon if need be.

Just now found a web page on the Gaia Green web site:
Gaia Green taking root across America

Sweet I didn't know that. I going to hafta check that out as I have been wanting to a few runs using Gaia Green nutes.