Second Grow - Deep Water Culture, 400w, Black Jack and Friends

Hi all,

First and foremost - my thanks to those who have provided suggestions. The grow is doing wonderfully.

One observation - This is only my second grow. I have never been around cannabis growing before. My first grow was the first time I have ever been near a mature cannabis plant so some things are very new to me. This grow is teaching me about the difference between strains. Growing two strains side by side is showing me how different strains are. Black Jack is short, stocky with very broad leaves, broader than the Purple Wreck I grew last time and much broader than the Kali Mist leaves. The Kali Mist already has wide spacing between nodes. And the difference in smell... I can't describe it but both strains smell wonder and wildly different already.

Now on to the update.

Black Jack - day 18
PH: 5.6
Room temp: 84
Res temp: 68
Nutes: 1/2 strength Botincare Pro Grow
Additives: H2O2, Cal/Mag

Big sister:

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Little sister:

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Roots, not white yet but much better:

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Kali Mist - day 11
PH: 5.5
Room temp: 84
Res temp: 68
Nutes: 1/2 strength Botincare Pro Grow
Additives: H2O2, Cal/Mag

Two sample pics, all five look identical:

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Kali mist roots:

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Fuck.

I did a drain and replenish yesterday.

I added H2O2, Cal/Mg, and nutes. PH was 5.5.

I went to check the plants this afternoon and found white spots on the leaves. PH was still 5.5. I popped tank lid and found the roots that looked almost white yesterday looked they they were dredged in oil today.

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Suggestions anyone?

I am getting close to pulling the plug on the Black Jacks.
 
Look under leafs with white blotches and look for small black spiders HALF the size of a single sugar granule.
Please look very carefully if u let them survive untreated they can take ur entire harvest.
My fingers are crossed that this is not what u have, but u will need a magnifying glass to see most likely
 
Thanks Love1Fear.

No visible sign of spiders but sure enough I turned the leaves over and it looks like something has been eating the leaves. The leaves are visibly thinner where they're pale.

Off to read up on pest control.
 
Spider Mites - Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. These arachnids have four pairs of legs, no antennae and a single, oval body region. Most spider mites have the ability to produce a fine silk webbing. Spider mites are very tiny, being less than 1/50 inch (0.4mm) long when adults. Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles. When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely. Heavily infested plants may be discolored, stunted or even killed. Web producing spider mites may coat the foliage with the fine silk which collects dust and looks dirty. Spider mite species seem to be warm weather or cool weather active pests. The twospotted, European red, honeylocust, and oak spider mites do best in dry, hot summer weather. The spruce and southern red spider mites do best in cool spring and fall weather. All spider mites go through the same stages of development. Adult females usually lay eggs on their host plants. The eggs hatch in days to weeks into the first stage, called a larva. Larvae are round bodied and have only three pairs of legs. The larvae feed for a few days, seek a sheltered spot to rest and then molt into the first nymphal stage. The first nymph now has four pairs of legs. The first nymphs feed a few days, rest and molt into the second nymph. The second nymphs feed, rest and molt into the adult stage. The males are usually the size of the second nymph and have pointed abdomens. The females have rounded abdomens and are the largest mites present. Most spider mites spend the winter in the egg stage but the twospotted spider mite over winters as adult females resting in protected places.

Solution - Early detection of spider mites, before damage is noticed, is VERY important. The tiny spider mites can be detected only by a full and thorough leaf inspection (on both sides of the leaf). If you find Spider Mites you must act fast and hit them hard with either a bleach solution (1 tablespoon of bleach to 1 gallon of 95°F, pH balanced, water in a spray bottle.) or use a miticide with Abamectin or lindane in it. That seems to work best. There are insect predators <Natural Pest Control> that can help in providing some CONTROL but this does not mean 100% eradication and in a consumable crop that is what we are after. The predator mite can help to control them if chemical sprays are not your thing.
 
Thanks for the links RM!

I hit the local garden store this afternoon and picked up some Safer Yard & Garden Insecticide.

I am also starting to wonder about the dark roots.

I've read that some folks have had issues with Botanicare nutes discoloring roots. The day before my roots really went dark I moved my nutes from 1/2 strength to 3/4 strength. The res temp stayed low (running about 65 now). I used H2O2. The plants look freakin' great (if you don't count the spider mite damage). A lot of new growth, both roots and foliage. Leaves are perky, pointed up. Stems look great. Roots are firm, no smell.

I think I am paying a karmic debt for my first grow having zero issues. My second seems snake bitten.
 
I have my fingers crossed for u bro!!!
Read up on ur pest control u bought some don't kill the mite eggs and after 3 days u got a brand new crop of mites that are more tolerant to what ever pesticide they grew up in there surroundings.
So to conquer past this u must rotate the main chemical agent to make sure u don't have mites that are slowly becoming tolerant.
 
Great call on lowering ur Nutes, because 1 sign of nute burn is darkened rootlets [(the root hairs off the long individual roots) Rootlet is accurate term].
Once ur rootlets are burned the plant leaf tips will appear yellow to gradually brown if not rectified.

So once again GREAT THINKING for ur medication!!!
 
Those BJ's look pretty good, even with the issues. They are big and green, so pulling them would suck. I had some issues with grey crap getting on my roots, kinda looks like what you got going on there. What I did was: Rinse those roots off, get the h2o2 out of the tank and lower the nutes to half of what I had. After like 2 days, of that, the plant jumped into action and the roots were almost fully cleaned. I rinsed them off again after a few days and left the h2o2 out for the rest of the grow. Once I had the res temps under control, the h2o2 caused more issues then it fixed. Hope you keep the Black Jacks, I tried to grow them, but royaly screwed up my babies and ended up growing a clone to make up for time spent on not getting the seeds going right. RES TEMPS was want I learned!!! If those are good, you don't need to add 'extra' stuff.
OH yeah, the roots on mine got junky lookin above the water, like how yours look. Good luck, I'm in on this, I still plan on growing the BJ seeds I have left and hope you keep yours so I can have a bit of a tutorial!!! Damn I hope I don't sound selfish, all i have heard is the BJ is amazing, so you keepin it should be good for you more then for me. LOL :hookah:
 
Thanks for all the helpful advice!

Right now I am going with the theory that the brown roots are actually a side effect of the Botanicare nutes cal/mag. The plants themselves look fine and the roots are firm, no smell. Nothing other than color to indicate trouble with the roots.

Update - Black Jack day 24, Kali Mist day 17

PH: 5.6 (BJ tank), 5.8 (KM tank)
Res temp 65 (both tanks)
Room temp: 79-84
RH: 35-41%
Nutes: 3/4 strength Botanicare grow
Additives: H2O2, cal/mag

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Group photo.

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Kali Mist plants

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Black Jack plants

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Some shots of the plants that had the white spots. The white spots turned golden and spread to cover most of the affected leaves. Mite damage? Nute burn? Cal deficiency?

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Thanks all!
 
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