I'm thinking just time the fan to come on every hour or two at night to keep the o2 level up. Also, if you have an external ozone generator for odors, would this cause the yeast or something to die and be ineffective? If not, then the o3 once turned back into o2 (after 30 min.)would give enough oxygen when the fan kicked on right?
Stickydank's Basic CO2 Method
- Thread starter SmokeyMacPot
- Start date
I'm thinking just time the fan to come on every hour or two at night to keep the o2 level up. Also, if you have an external ozone generator for odors, would this cause the yeast or something to die and be ineffective? If not, then the o3 once turned back into o2 (after 30 min.)would give enough oxygen when the fan kicked on right?
10 pounds of sugar is going to give a specific gravity (SG) of about 1100 in 4.5 gallons of water.,a potential of 10% alcohol. Bakers yeasts are poor fermenters to begin with and begin to crap out at any SG of roughly 1040 and above,meaning you're only getting about 40% 0f your potential CO2 production from your sugar water
As an old brewer I'd start with the bakers yeast and when the fermentation started to stall out I'd switch to a good alcohol tolerant dry wine or ale yeast. The spent bakers yeast will act as a nutrient for the newly introduced yeast,allowing near full fermentation of the sugar giving you roughly 90% of the mixture's potential CO2 production.
As for the toast,I don't why the guy is using that? Unless it's a barley heavy bread it's not going to give you any enzymes to get full use of the yeasts potential. Personally,as both bread and ale yeast are the same little critter,I'd go to my nearest brew shop and pick up some alpha-emylaze enzyme powder to introduce t0o the sugar water (a tablespoon will do nicely.) or a small can of diastatic malt extract to replace some of the refined sugar for part of the mix. It gives the yeast what it needs to feed on and it allows them to be healthy enough to process refined sugar efficiently.
You can use the 5 gallon bucket but they're notorious for leaking gas around the lids seal. Your best bet is a 5 gallon glass or plastic carboy,those big water jugs,with a bored rubber stopper and water filled airlock. You get a slower release of CO2 instead of it going in 2-3 days through a leaky bucket lid. The other advantage of the carboy is you can see the fermentation taking place. When you notice the bread yeast starting to crap out,less than 1 bubble per minute through the airlock,you can add your more alcohol tolerant yeast. I'd advise pitching two 7 gram packets of Nottingham Dry Ale yeast for a healthy second dosage. Nottingham Dry Ale yeast is widely available worldwide and is very alcohol tolerant. There are tons of other dried yeasts,but Nottingham has been used by home and commercial brewers alike for 30 years,is very dependable,and best of all,cheap.
IMO,this method would give you much more efficient and complete CO2 production due to full fermentation of the sugar water mix.
None of this stuff is expensive. The carboy is the biggy at about 20 bucks for a 5 gallon jug,but they last for years.
The closer you can keep the ambient temp of the carboy in 65-70 degree range,the longer your fermentations/CO2 production will last. I used to do my summer ale brewing using a tub of water with a couple of two liter bottles of frozen water to bathe the carboy when my basement temps got into the mid 70's. You can knock about 10 degrees off the fermentation that way.
That's my 2 cents worth. i hope it helps some of you home CO2 experimenters.
As an old brewer I'd start with the bakers yeast and when the fermentation started to stall out I'd switch to a good alcohol tolerant dry wine or ale yeast. The spent bakers yeast will act as a nutrient for the newly introduced yeast,allowing near full fermentation of the sugar giving you roughly 90% of the mixture's potential CO2 production.
As for the toast,I don't why the guy is using that? Unless it's a barley heavy bread it's not going to give you any enzymes to get full use of the yeasts potential. Personally,as both bread and ale yeast are the same little critter,I'd go to my nearest brew shop and pick up some alpha-emylaze enzyme powder to introduce t0o the sugar water (a tablespoon will do nicely.) or a small can of diastatic malt extract to replace some of the refined sugar for part of the mix. It gives the yeast what it needs to feed on and it allows them to be healthy enough to process refined sugar efficiently.
You can use the 5 gallon bucket but they're notorious for leaking gas around the lids seal. Your best bet is a 5 gallon glass or plastic carboy,those big water jugs,with a bored rubber stopper and water filled airlock. You get a slower release of CO2 instead of it going in 2-3 days through a leaky bucket lid. The other advantage of the carboy is you can see the fermentation taking place. When you notice the bread yeast starting to crap out,less than 1 bubble per minute through the airlock,you can add your more alcohol tolerant yeast. I'd advise pitching two 7 gram packets of Nottingham Dry Ale yeast for a healthy second dosage. Nottingham Dry Ale yeast is widely available worldwide and is very alcohol tolerant. There are tons of other dried yeasts,but Nottingham has been used by home and commercial brewers alike for 30 years,is very dependable,and best of all,cheap.
IMO,this method would give you much more efficient and complete CO2 production due to full fermentation of the sugar water mix.
None of this stuff is expensive. The carboy is the biggy at about 20 bucks for a 5 gallon jug,but they last for years.
The closer you can keep the ambient temp of the carboy in 65-70 degree range,the longer your fermentations/CO2 production will last. I used to do my summer ale brewing using a tub of water with a couple of two liter bottles of frozen water to bathe the carboy when my basement temps got into the mid 70's. You can knock about 10 degrees off the fermentation that way.
That's my 2 cents worth. i hope it helps some of you home CO2 experimenters.
elfstone
New Member
After reading all this, I decided to just buy the Active Air kit and a 20 lb. tank for my Growlab GL145. I have a fan attached to a Goblin charcoal filter for exhaust, attached to a heat activated switch so it only goes on if the temps crawl up to 85. I run another fan to pull air through the cooltube from outside the tent. Simple, but effective.
GimmieGreenie
New Member
I been think about that. How some people say singing to plant make them healthier. It all our Co2 when we are exhaling thats doing.
So i been think about blowing on my plants when working with them. i can't really sing :/
sir blackalot
New Member
has anybody tried this method and it's cost effectiveness versus just buying a tank and regulator? sugar is ridiculous expensive these days and yeast isn't that cheap either.
2gengrowers
New Member
Thanx for the great info
rossislaughin
New Member
I use a 7 gallon carboy with champagne yeast. The yeast is very tolerant to alcohol. Making wine I've hit 13 percent. It lasts about 3-4 weeks depending on the temp. If you want to see results check out my journal.
great info, I have a few carboys with all the shiznit i need, wow, great tip, just saved me a bundle and made my grow better!
co2 is so easy to control spend a couple hundred bucks on some fuzzy logic controllers frop c.a.p. custom automated products i use these products you will not find better to get your grow totally under control 24/7 no more trying to remember any of that crap you know that old saying timing is everything you want your grow tight get your timing right lights bright all off and on at exact same time together temp 75 degrees humidity 40% water 66` and co2 @ 1500 while lights are on easily achieved with C.A.P. controllers
I'm gonna have to look into this one a lil deeper... I hadn't planned on a CO2 outfit but, it may be that I'm gonna want one if it's something that will make max growth easier for my babies!
elfstone
New Member
CO2 is as important as getting your nutrients correct. It literally doubles to triples the yield. I now pick up a 20 lb. tank about every six weeks for my GL420, at about $16 a tank. Best investment I've made yet.
WillyBudz
New Member
Sugar sure does add up in cost after awhile. I went to this.
$169.00
Includes: Tank, regulator, timer and tubing. Look around, they are all over the interwebs*..... *
$12 - $16 to refill tank depending where you go. I run mine only the last 4 weeks of flower, lasts about 10 weeks for me....
$5 -$6 a month for CO2 from tank after initial investment, no clue what the yeast/sugar version cost is.. This is to keep an 8'x12'x6'6"ht room at approx 1500ppm during lights on.
$169.00
Includes: Tank, regulator, timer and tubing. Look around, they are all over the interwebs*..... *
$12 - $16 to refill tank depending where you go. I run mine only the last 4 weeks of flower, lasts about 10 weeks for me....
$5 -$6 a month for CO2 from tank after initial investment, no clue what the yeast/sugar version cost is.. This is to keep an 8'x12'x6'6"ht room at approx 1500ppm during lights on.
420Troy420
New Member
you can get a co2 test kit for 20 bucks and will have 2 test kits within it. As for feeding your plants Co2, they "eat" Co2 during Photosynthesis which occurs when the plant is in sunlight, therefore running Co2 at night is only advisable to get the level to 1200-1500 before the lights come on!
420Troy420
New Member
Sugar sure does add up in cost after awhile. I went to this.
$169.00
Includes: Tank, regulator, timer and tubing. Look around, they are all over the interwebs*..... *
$12 - $16 to refill tank depending where you go. I run mine only the last 4 weeks of flower, lasts about 10 weeks for me....
$5 -$6 a month for CO2 from tank after initial investment, no clue what the yeast/sugar version cost is.. This is to keep an 8'x12'x6'6"ht room at approx 1500ppm during lights on.
don't run Co2 the last 2 weeks of flowering I am told for the flush, this true?
yes im also curious about using it during veg/flowering. Also, how often should I change the c02 water?
sfttailpaul
New Member
I have never heard of not using CO2 the last 2 weeks. In fact, that's probably the most significant 2 week period in the entire grow. Flushing a LOT and even starving the water off the last 2 days is what I do. In nature, the CO2 isn't an "on/off" thing. It is just that CO2 @ night is a waste (in terms of increasing yield) because there is NO Photosynthesis.
Absolutely, CO2 is "for sure", a way to increase the yield of your grow. Keep in mind, however, CO2 can only aid in more yield that is genetically predetermined I have CO2 running all the time the lights are ON (only). That means, cuttings & rootings, teens and everyone in Veg gets it as well as EVERYTHING in flower. I have everything under automated controls because the intake/exhaust/recirculation of all the "air" in both rooms is complicated. Keep in mind ALSO that the utilization of supplemental CO2 allows "some" strains to be able to tolerate a temperature of 95 degrees F! PLEASE, not ALL the strains I have grown agree, and some will show heat stress at 85 degrees+. The "AIR" the plants need goes something like this: CO2 is what the plant needs to have photosynthesis, and Oxygen at the roots is the other component. The reason for increased yield stems from this increase in both gasses and the fact that the plants don't have to search and process for these gasses and thus the saved energy is used to promote more growth and denser, tighter, fuller buds. Plants do not get much Oxygen in soil, but in most hydroponics methods and especially Aeroponics, they get the best of both worlds. So boys & Girls. CO2 above grade and O2 below grade is where I seem to get the greatest success, quality and quantity. I have to make each plant count. I will do anything I have to, to ensure those girls are taken care of; their needs are met as best as I can. Also, extremely high concentrations of CO2 will kill off most of the pests associated with growing MJ. They literally suffocate due to the lack of Oxygen present when using the concentrated method of eradication. I have a propane powered CO2 generator that I can run my CO2 levels up to around 2500-3000 PPM. I let this level accumulate and re-circulate for an hour and 1/2 and then fresh (filtered) air is in order. If pests are way too abundant, I will run CO2 after "lights OUT" to do the same thing. Not using the CO2 here for the plants benefit, rather taking advantage of cooler nights and can hold and re-circulate the CO2 a lot longer. Flood the room whilst killing off those pesky mites, etc.
Again, there are a thousand ways to "grow better" and the beauty of these forums is the collective experiences of the membership aids everyone. If I do something I think is gonna' be great, and then I find out I either did it wrong or it wasn't a good idea to begin with, I just might save some person the time and money doing the same dumb thing. Of course this depends on everyone's honesty and also the ability to admit the mistake in public. We all want to grow the best. We all want the same thing. Every thing I know is because I read, and a lot, and learn from my peers. I can sit here all alone and be real quiet about some technique or whatever, keeping it to myself and selfish to boot! BUT, if we all share our experience, strength and hope, we can all benefit from BOTH the good as well as the bad. Just no BS, and we'll all gain again and again.
Stoned4daze61
New Member
Okay I wouldn't normally consider myself a doubter, but this situation seems pretty iffy. Seems like a waste of time &/or money for the benefit that everyone "believes" their getting. I'm sure not many seasoned growers have tested the validity of this claim with a scientific approach. Why not put it into something more useful ? Or maybe get solid numbers using a measuring device. I understand not everyone can afford a legit one, I don't even own one myself but this just seems unrealistic.
sfttailpaul
New Member
I ask you Sir, have you tried using CO2? One cannot evaluate something without trying it for themselves. I have grown the same strain with and without CO2; same plants from clone so I know what to expect, and can readily see and tell a difference. I would not have gone from tanks to a generator because the extra heat alone, would stop me had I not liked the results. The generator gets the gas out more and faster, that's why I chose it. Dealing with all that extra heat is a pain but I am willing to deal with it because it is worth the additional growth the plants get. We are strictly talking about growth and that which is genetically pre-determined. If the plant has it in it, the CO2 helps her bring it out all things considered. Even a closet grow can benefit from a simple Yeast-Sugar concoction. Any supplemental gas will do something; definitely not a waste.
I appreciate your opinion and used to think the same. I have to stick my fingers in the light socket to prove its' on... that's how I learn almost everything, really!
Stoned4daze61
New Member
No I have not, and I completely understand where your coming from. You hit the nail on the head, I'm a "no pic no proof" kinda guy! I wasn't for one second stating that Co2 will NOT benefit plants, I'm just saying with all this time in effort going into this yeast sugar concoction has anyone tested the actual benefit ppm wise? Saying simply it will help the plants isn't satisfying to me, I'm a solid number kinda guy. I feel like most of the growers who use this sugar yeast method are small scale ops that have so much variance between cycles that saying they noticed an improvement could be caused by a number of variables. If someone could give me a solid number that would definitely put my mind at ease and hell I'd probably go make my own. Even in my case, if I added this concoction to my op it would be hard to tell a noticeable difference because although growing does take a miniscule amount of skill it takes a majority of experience. My next batch is always better then the one before it because I, just like all other growers, refine their methods and techniques to apply to your next batch of plants. So saying their was an improvement over your last batch doesn't tell me much because your next batch should ALWAYS be better then your last.
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