The Gas Lantern Routine for Growing Cannabis

The Gas Lantern Routine for Growing Cannabis
By Daniel Boughen




Observing Natural Cycles


During the course of my observations growing cannabis, I have noticed that factors such as clone burn-out seem to suggest that overexposure to light is adversely affecting the hormonal balance of the growing plants and causing the genetics of the cuts and seedlings to degrade over the course of several generations. Cannabis seems quite happy when the hormones are allowed to properly build up more during a natural outdoor vegetative cycle, and this may contribute to more balanced levels of THC and CBD, resulting in a more positive response to triggering, and better-quality medicinal cannabis being grown.

I turn to the conditions of nature to find the solution, and in a natural model, I can see that from the point of view of the plants, the sun gradually moves past, casting sunbeams and shadows of objects and trees in front, beside, and behind the plant successively across photo surfaces during the course of the day. This clearly shows that in the natural environment, the play of light and shadow are significant to the natural progress of the plant.

Even in a northern climate, there is no such thing as 18 hours of direct and intense lighting anywhere to be found, and most areas where the summer is short, the lighting is no longer than 16 hours in total.

During a recent discussion with other growers, we rediscovered a rumored century-old technique that proves that the direct and intense application of light for longer than necessary can be more stressful to the plant than previously known, and could even degrade the plants genetic strength.

Now that cannabis growers are starting to grow specifically for medicines, the health of the plant needs to be properly considered so that the full natural potential of the plant can be realized and the fullest expression of the plants medicines be produced. The margin for error is becoming smaller as the mistakes of the past are revealed and medicinally specific growing is gaining importance.

The Old Cash Cropping Method

The commonly used cash cropping method of cannabis cultivation wastes energy. People use this method by rote, since they simply dont know what the real requirements of the plants are. It is stressful to the hormonal systems of cannabis, and not necessary to produce fully healthy and productive plants. It does not recognize that overexposure to light is harmful to the plants, and so they underperform in terms of taste, yield, quality, and potency of the medicine, or require supercharged fertilizers to reach their potential. It is surprising that these techniques are used with profits in mind, since they are clearly expensive and counterproductive.

The Gas Lantern Routine


This information will seem quite revolutionary to growers who have been using the standard cycles to produce cannabis, seemingly with little or no trouble at all. Actually, in a grow that more closely mimics the outdoor growing environment under indoor lighting conditions, the plants may be maintained in vegetative cycle using only a total of 13 hours of light daily, which dramatically reduces the cost of production.

The less is more approach of the Gas Lantern Routine provides the growing plant with adequate darkness to promote health, and by inserting a full hour of light in the center of the dark period, the plants are tricked, and neither flower nor express hermaphrodites. The growing plants get more than the average amount of rest, thus reducing stress, and improving plant yield, overall performance, and medicinal quality.

Seedlings and Cuttings

The Gas Lantern Routine is applicable in seedling phases of plant growth. As stated before, nowhere in nature does the springtime ever provide an 18-hour photosynthesis length; rather, the growing spring light may in fact be 12 hours or less. Lighting for seedlings and cuttings needs to be bright, but compact fluorescent or T5 lighting may be used while in the seedling phase. Rooted mature cuttings can immediately light with HID lighting.

The Vegetative Schedule

This method is quite simple: 12 hours of light, followed by five and one half hours of darkness, a single hour of light exactly, and then a second period of five and one half hours of darkness. Placing a full hour of light in the very center of a 12-hour dark period tricks the plant and interrupts the buildup up of sensitive floral hormones, which would normally trigger flowering by destroying them. The grower simply raises the plants to the desired size before switching to the fall schedule to bloom.

Using this method, vegetative duration may be also reduced, and with a shorter growth cycle comes more frequent and better production. Vegetative cycles can be shortened by one to two weeks, and flowering may also be shortened a week or more using this method in con- junction with a diminishing light schedule.

For patients growing their own medicine or for compassionate cannabis providers, production turnover may be increased from four to five crops per year or more using rotation, and power consumption can be reduced even further by the use of high-intensity fluorescent lighting during vegetation, and overall, power consumption savings can be 50 percent or more.

The Flowering Schedule

Plants that have been grown up using the Gas Lantern Routine are now supercharged with floral hormones, and ready to go into flower with the slightest provocation. The interruption of the dark period has been destroying enough of the naturally building hormones to keep the plant from expressing sex, and the well-rested plant now has plenty of stored nutrients and energy to finish its life cycle and flower. Triggering the plants is essentially just a matter of removing the interrupting light period, so the plants may now experience the full buildup of hormones that will trigger blooming.

In keeping with providing all the correct organic biological and environmental needs of the plant, the diminishing fall schedule should be employed to take full advantage of the hormonal preparation created by using the Gas Lantern Routine. The diminishing hours of light in nature trigger acceleration in the production of hormones in the plant, making it flower with increasing speed and power.

The Diminishing Lighting Schedule

The diminishing fall schedule begins with an evenly halved light schedule, using 12 hours for the first two weeks to trigger the plant into bloom, and then further reducing the lighting for increasing darkness time by one half hour every week.

The final week of flowering will provide the plants with a mere nine hours of light, with 15 hours of darkness, forcing a resulting final explosive hormonal buildup. This sends the plant into blooming overdrive and produces resin far beyond the normal plants limits.
When the Gas Lantern Routine and Diminishing Light Schedule are used together, they create healthier, more naturally robust plants. These important and historical botanical techniques are soon going to become very important techniques in the coming years as medicinal cannabis research continues to advance. When viewed from cost of production, organics, and medicinal needs, the methods currently being promoted can be seen counter to the interests of growing healthy plants. Understanding your plants is the best way to grow the best medicine, and looking for solutions to growing problems by observing nature always provides the right answers.


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My 1 month trail run!

Twelve12;1389673 said:
Update: Gas Lantern Routine - Week 4 completion

Been running this light cycle for a month and the results are amazing. I would say this light cycle is superior to any other light cycle for vegetative growth.

For veg:
  • 12-1 (Gas Lantern Routine) - Superior
  • 15/9 - High
  • 16/8 - High
  • 18/6 - Middle
  • 24/0 - Low

Here are the results from each week. I've trimmed a few times and the tent bounce back with more growth.

Before the switch
MG_1697.jpg


1st Week Results
MG_1782.jpg


2nd Week Results - Trimmed after photos taken
MG_1845.jpg


3rd Week Results - New Growth - Trimmed (center)
MG_1973.jpg


4th Week Results
- New Growth - Trimmed (center)
MG_2018.jpg

MG_2019.jpg

MG_2021.jpg

MG_2020.jpg


No pistils/balls till this day.

I left the top area of the tent alone (only trimmed once) to see the height differences between the new growth and the old tops. Every two weeks the tent gets really dense so new cuttings are made to keep them in check. I have over 15 strains in here not recommended for small tent even the one I use 4x4 is quite small, it can get crowded if you don't have use for the cuttings. Good thing I got the 2L SOG running for the clones.

To solve the solution is to keep the mother plants small, bonsai small while keeping some at normal height. So every two weeks I trim the plants at normal height while letting the bonsai grow, and 2 weeks later take cuttings from the bonsai (should be at normal height by then) while letting the new bonsai plants grow, and repeat the cycle. I also have my own tissue culture going (more on this later) to preserve the clones when the cloner is running full capacity. This way the tent is kept at growth balance.

Pro:
  • Saves electricity (11hrs of saving from 24/0, 5hrs of saving from 18/6)
  • Promote healthy plants. Any deficiency it has the plant will be able to bounce back with new growth after adjustment is made
  • Promote plants growth, 2x more than 18/6, and 3x more from 24/0*
  • Cuttings will root much faster with thicker roots*
  • Clones under bloom (12/12) will induce flowering much sooner*
  • Less on hours = less heat = stealth
  • Great for rooted clones and mother plants

Con:
  • Tent grow must have good ventilation or keep the tent unzip for the 1hr on between the dark cycle.
  • Require odor control (carbon filter + inline fan combo). Healthy plants produce more aroma even in veg.*
  • Plants in small container (less than 10oz container) may get root bound due to rapid growth
  • Not recommended for rooting clones.*

* Strains vary

Some tips using GLR (theory):
  • Have the light on a timer so the on/off is consistent daily. Manual on/off may induce flowering.
  • Use mix light or MH. Try not to use just HPS. The spectrum from HPS may induce flowering even with the 1 hour on between the dark cycle.
  • For the 1 hour on use a cheap light source like Fluorescent light or CFL instead of using HID light. Have it on a separate timer only turn on 1hr between the dark cycle and have the HID light set at 12/12. Normally with any other light cycle the ballast is turned on once in 24hrs, with GLR it turned on twice. This may shorten the lifespan of the ballast and bulb. If you decided to run Fluo/CFL then make sure the tent is well lid any shaded area or area left in the dark may induce flowering. The 1 hour on between dark cycle help destroy floral hormone, lack of light will not be able to destroy the hormone and will send your plants in bloom.

I'm very impressed by the results from GLR. I give this light cycle a passing grade:

A+

You're safe to run this light cycle if you want. I'm using this exclusively for all clones/seedling/and plants in vegetative growth.

Comments

Presently at the end of 1st month of grow, my first timer was a bust, so I bought the old fashioned kind and it works perfectly...used GLR on my previous grow and it definitely has worked much better than on 24/0 or 18/6 schedule. I see much more vegetative growth and healthy plants. :3:
 
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Can I use GLR 12-1 light cycle for cloning?
I know it's for vegetative growth, but how about cloning? Please advise.

Thank you.
 
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thanhvinh;bt12941 said:
Can I use GLR 12-1 light cycle for cloning?
I know it's for vegetative growth, but how about cloning? Please advise.

Thank you.
I currently have my clones under GLR and just cloned yesterday so I will be able to tell you in a week or so. I don't know why it wouldn't work, but we shall see. After I switched to it for vegetative period I haven't used any other method. I also use DLS (diminishing light schedule) for the flowering period. Good luck with your grow and Keep 'Em Green :3:
HOZ :volcano-smiley:
 
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Hozona;bt12944 said:
I currently have my clones under GLR and just cloned yesterday so I will be able to tell you in a week or so. I don't know why it wouldn't work, but we shall see. After I switched to it for vegetative period I haven't used any other method. I also use DLS (diminishing light schedule) for the flowering period. Good luck with your grow and Keep 'Em Green :3:
HOZ :volcano-smiley:
I have used it while cloning, it works just as well as an 18/6. I use a 22/2, however for cloning. I think it gives me a faster root than traditional 18/6 ot GLR.
 
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jandre2k3;bt8274 said:
14/10 gives too much dark to maintain vegetative growth. Your plant will go into a faux/soft flower, and grow no more.

Does this mean that the plant is a write off? Or will it eventually flower properly, having got no bigger....?
 
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jandre2k3;bt14507 said:
Having gotten no bigger, it will eventually reach its end of life cycle without a full flower and die if you do not get it into a longer daylight cycle.

Bummer. Thanks.
 
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jandre2k3;bt14510 said:
Get into a longer light cycle!
Not an option. Is outdoors while I dick around building a cab...Was researching GLR (obviously!) when I read about this 'Soft' flowering..
Don't wanna hijack the blog but my plant outside is doing this now under natural light (southern hem.) Solstice is in a few days so I am hoping she mite just continue to flower normally, but am now not going to hold my breath.
At least I know that it isn't the genetics or whatever.. It behaved just like an auto (it's not) but I never thought about light times. We have just under 14hrs of daylight, but various shade issues is the problem, I now know.... It's probably very close to a 12/12 situation in reality right now so fingers crossed it just keeps flowering...
Thanks!
 
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santb;bt14511 said:
Not an option. Is outdoors while I dick around building a cab...Was researching GLR (obviously!) when I read about this 'Soft' flowering..
Don't wanna hijack the blog but my plant outside is doing this now under natural light (southern hem.) Solstice is in a few days so I am hoping she mite just continue to flower normally, but am now not going to hold my breath.
At least I know that it isn't the genetics or whatever.. It behaved just like an auto (it's not) but I never thought about light times. We have just under 14hrs of daylight, but various shade issues is the problem, I now know.... It's probably very close to a 12/12 situation in reality right now so fingers crossed it just keeps flowering...
Thanks!
Yes it will flower normally outside, but with issues in the shade. . . check your PM's
 
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Hello !
Very interesting.
Do you think it will also work with Auto Flowers ? (the hour in the middle of the night )

I have noticed that most of my AutoFlo strains prefer less light than advised (14 hours in a row seems the maximum for many seed banks i've used (sweet seeds, world of seeds, buddha seed) - after that, the leaves go down and the plant needs to rest).

But I wonder what would be the effect of the 1 hours light in the middle of the night on AutoFlos (because they don't trigger pistils/flowers based on light time, but rather after x weeks).

Thanks
 
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PS:
I Have also noticed blooming is more energetic with light reduced slowly during the last weeks, just as explained in the blog (even though I went from 14 to 12... but will try to go to 9 / 10 next time).
So this part works with some autos too.
Just the light in the middle of the night that may not work on Autos, but if qsomeone has tried, it would be great to know.

spacef;bt14648 said:
Hello !
Very interesting.
Do you think it will also work with Auto Flowers ? (the hour in the middle of the night )

I have noticed that most of my AutoFlo strains prefer less light than advised (14 hours in a row seems the maximum for many seed banks i've used (sweet seeds, world of seeds, buddha seed) - after that, the leaves go down and the plant needs to rest).

But I wonder what would be the effect of the 1 hours light in the middle of the night on AutoFlos (because they don't trigger pistils/flowers based on light time, but rather after x weeks).

Thanks
 
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spacef;bt14649 said:
PS:
I Have also noticed blooming is more energetic with light reduced slowly during the last weeks, just as explained in the blog (even though I went from 14 to 12... but will try to go to 9 / 10 next time).
So this part works with some autos too.
Just the light in the middle of the night that may not work on Autos, but if qsomeone has tried, it would be great to know.
That is correct, there is a distinction:

Diminishing Light Schedule: (USED ONCE IN FLOWER) Reduces the light as above

and

Gas Lantern Routine: (USED BEFORE FLOWER) Is the one hour during the night


They are two different and totally separate schedules used for two different cycles of life. GLR is used to prepare the plants for flower, and DLS is once the plants go into flower. They are not used simultaneously, nor could they be, if one were to follow the set schedules correctly.
 
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((APPLIES TO PHOTO-PHASE PLANTS ONLY))
Gas Lantern Routine
12-on
5.5-off
1-on
5.5-off

Diminishing Light Schedule (Mine-I hate Halves....)
Alternate removing/adding hours from off and on times.
12
12
11
10
10
9
9
8



In my continued experience with GLR and DLS I have found that GLR can be used to set up a plant for a powerful and quick transition into flower with very little stretch. The plant will continue to grow as normal in a vegetative state, but will start to build up flowering hormones in its tissues. This growth can and will continue for a MAXIMUM of nine, to eleven months, upon which the vegging plant will irrevocably switch to end-of-life, and die. This switch can be avoided by either switching the plant to flower and letting nature take over from there, or, if conditions are not optimal for flowering in the next five months, switch the plant to 24-hour light before the beginning of the eighth month, to force a purge of the flower hormone, which is destroyed by light, and switch the plant back into a full vegetative state.

If the former, flowering, was your choice, this is when the DLS comes in. Simply remove the "hour on" at night and you've got an instant switch to flower. You'll notice from here, that there will be (strain dependent) up to 60% less stretch, the transition will be about 3 weeks quicker, and trichomes will develop sooner and thicker than before. Add to that the Diminishing Light Schedule, and you'll super-charge this result, as the plant will be sent into overdrive trying to beat the shortening days to the end of the season, and complete flower. Resin production will increase, calyx's will swell, aromas, essential oils, everything will heighten to fever pitch racing to beat the waning sun (just as in nature every year).


I hope this helps . . .
 
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Twelve12;bt2931 said:
This thread has info on bonsai moms. The plant does not degrade it just limiting growth from having too many shoots and keeping a small root ball so the plant don't get root bound over time. I keep all males bonsai or in time capsule, while clone producing mothers in the largest container I can find (3gal) while still provide enough space for other plants in the same tent.


Hey Twelve was just wondering if I am already using a 18/6 light schedule is it possible to switch to using the GLR, or should I wait until next grow? I know that changing light schedules can stress your plants but this seems like its doing the opposite?

Thanks!!!
 
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FuzzyNugz;bt15294 said:
Hey Twelve was just wondering if I am already using a 18/6 light schedule is it possible to switch to using the GLR, or should I wait until next grow? I know that changing light schedules can stress your plants but this seems like its doing the opposite?

Thanks!!!
Twelve12 is "On Vacation" for some years now, but as you can tell for the years since, I have been manning the tread responses.

I can tell you that I have been using GLR for the past few years, directly after 18/6 vegetation, and have never had a problem. I use 18/6 for my mothers, and 20/4 for my clones. Once my clones are rooted enough, I put them in with the moms, under 18/6 to get bigger... Once I am ready to flower a plant, it goes into a flower box, where it receives the GLR for the remainder of the veg cycle, to fill in the box before flowering. This usually takes 2-3 months to fill in from teens, and the GLR has never caused a problem. To the contrary, it has actually HELPED the plants get ready for flower, by supercharging the plants with the flower hormone, while keeping the same vegetative vigor that they showed in 18/6.

For flower they show a VERY short transition and stretch period when going to Diminishing Light Schedule (DLS). I just remove the "1 hour on" at "night" and this starts the flowering cycle. 2 weeks later I start the first drop in diminishing. Stretch is reduced to mere DAYS instead of the usual WEEKS when switching from 18/6 to 12/12 for flower.

There should be no harm at all switching your plants to GLR to get them ready for flower. I would switch them as early as possible to give them as much growing time under GLR as possible. I usually shoot for a MINIMUM of 1 month of growing time under GLR before switching to DLS for flower.
 
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