Auto Blueberry Berry growing problem

Howdy do
Those moisture metres are not accurate at all.
Ive had them in the past. I believe a lot of members have also tried them and have found the same.
Than how can I check the moisture? I know something like this: to water the plant when the few inches of soil is complete dry. But than as you said it s allready too dry. Can you give me an advice with the watering problem?
 
Than how can I check the moisture? I know something like this: to water the plant when the few inches of soil is complete dry. But than as you said it s allready too dry. Can you give me an advice with the watering problem?
I actually lift my pots up to see when they are lighter or I wait until I see slight drooping of the leaves. I've never poked my finger in the soil . It can be bone dry at the top and water logged at the bottom. So that method doesnt really work.
Hopefully Emiya will be along soon. The link is in the signature. It goes into great depth on how to water your plants
 
I actually lift my pots up to see when they are lighter or I wait until I see slight drooping of the leaves. I've never poked my finger in the soil . It can be bone dry at the top and water logged at the bottom. So that method doesnt really work.
Hopefully Emiya will be along soon. The link is in her signature. It goes into great depth on how to water your plants
I see...well I will be more attentive to the pots weight....thanks for this advice mate....it really helps me as a first time grower. Cheers!
 
Thanks a lot for your answer! I put 500ml twice a week for every plant there. I am not sure but I think there are 5galon pots (20l). I will start to water them 2 times per week with water and 2 times per week water+fertilizer. Thanks again!

ps: hope you can find that link..cheers mate!
Like Squiggle said my friend, those meters don't work and will give you trouble.
Keep on going your doing good.
 
I see a few things worth mentioning. First agree with Squiggles - those probe type 3 way moisture meters are best used to roast 2 hotdogs or marshmallows at a time. They are very inaccurate.

The issue is this..... coco is soilless, peat moss also is soilless they look like a true soil but they are not. Ok, coco is inert, meaning there are zero nutrients in coco to sustain a plant, this same thing is true for peat moss it’s inert. But they put some nutes in the mix probably. Here's where it gets tricky...... both coco and peat can be used as the base and heavily amended to make a super soil or as Nunya has a water only living organic soil.

But you don’t have supersoil, you’ve got mostly coco so this gets treated as soil less or a hydro grow. So for true soil grows it is suggested that growers use the wet dry cycle and let the pots dry out. However you are not a true soil grow - you are coco so what Nunya said is right - feed light nutes everyday.

Coco cannot be allowed to dry out, in fact I think the biggest issue you are facing is that you are not watering enough. That coco needs to be saturated all the way thru until you get 10% runoff. This feed to runoff means you flush out a little bit of the old nutes each day by delivering fresh nutes. I know it sounds crazy but coco is not soil, two different things entirely. Coco is considered drain to waste hydro so hydro rules apply as far as 5.8 ph.

I think lift the pot method doesn’t apply here since it’s coco I’m going to ask @Bill284 to re-read a few posts here to see if he agrees or not. Heck I could be wrong here... and that’s ok - just so we get you sorted! Also that mix could use perlite added for more aeration on your next grow cycle
 
I see a few things worth mentioning. First agree with Squiggles - those probe type 3 way moisture meters are best used to roast 2 hotdogs or marshmallows at a time. They are very inaccurate.

The issue is this..... coco is soilless, peat moss also is soilless they look like a true soil but they are not. Ok, coco is inert, meaning there are zero nutrients in coco to sustain a plant, this same thing is true for peat moss it’s inert. But they put some nutes in the mix probably. Here's where it gets tricky...... both coco and peat can be used as the base and heavily amended to make a super soil or as Nunya has a water only living organic soil.

But you don’t have supersoil, you’ve got mostly coco so this gets treated as soil less or a hydro grow. So for true soil grows it is suggested that growers use the wet dry cycle and let the pots dry out. However you are not a true soil grow - you are coco so what Nunya said is right - feed light nutes everyday.

Coco cannot be allowed to dry out, in fact I think the biggest issue you are facing is that you are not watering enough. That coco needs to be saturated all the way thru until you get 10% runoff. This feed to runoff means you flush out a little bit of the old nutes each day by delivering fresh nutes. I know it sounds crazy but coco is not soil, two different things entirely. Coco is considered drain to waste hydro so hydro rules apply as far as 5.8 ph.

I think lift the pot method doesn’t apply here since it’s coco I’m going to ask @Bill284 to re-read a few posts here to see if he agrees or not. Heck I could be wrong here... and that’s ok - just so we get you sorted! Also that mix could use perlite added for more aeration on your next grow cycle
I thought it was soil. My bad
They do say it's soil though :hmmmm:
 
I see a few things worth mentioning. First agree with Squiggles - those probe type 3 way moisture meters are best used to roast 2 hotdogs or marshmallows at a time. They are very inaccurate.

The issue is this..... coco is soilless, peat moss also is soilless they look like a true soil but they are not. Ok, coco is inert, meaning there are zero nutrients in coco to sustain a plant, this same thing is true for peat moss it’s inert. But they put some nutes in the mix probably. Here's where it gets tricky...... both coco and peat can be used as the base and heavily amended to make a super soil or as Nunya has a water only living organic soil.

But you don’t have supersoil, you’ve got mostly coco so this gets treated as soil less or a hydro grow. So for true soil grows it is suggested that growers use the wet dry cycle and let the pots dry out. However you are not a true soil grow - you are coco so what Nunya said is right - feed light nutes everyday.

Coco cannot be allowed to dry out, in fact I think the biggest issue you are facing is that you are not watering enough. That coco needs to be saturated all the way thru until you get 10% runoff. This feed to runoff means you flush out a little bit of the old nutes each day by delivering fresh nutes. I know it sounds crazy but coco is not soil, two different things entirely. Coco is considered drain to waste hydro so hydro rules apply as far as 5.8 ph.

I think lift the pot method doesn’t apply here since it’s coco I’m going to ask @Bill284 to re-read a few posts here to see if he agrees or not. Heck I could be wrong here... and that’s ok - just so we get you sorted! Also that mix could use perlite added for more aeration on your next grow cycle
Hey @013 I hope you are keeping well my friend. It seems we have bumped int a conundrum. As the op stated its some sort of medicinal soil mix with perlite.
I didn't see any perlite? Which doesn't instill confidence. And now it seems that there is a possibility of it being coco hybrid. So what is the best plan going forward. First do you have a feed chart for your nutrients. Does it have different schedules for coco and soil if so which have you been following.
How do we confirm what's going on. If they remain droopy, try letting it dry out between watering as @Squiggle suggested and lift the pot . If the plants perk up carry on with your current watering techniques. Unfortunately I can't tell what is going on with out a confirmation of pot contents. We will all keep an eye on your thread post daily update pics, if you really in trouble twice a day is ok. And we will do our best for you. In the meantime try and find out for sure what's in you pots, web search? Maby check where you got it see if they can tell you anything.
 
Hello guys! I'm surprised how helpful is the comunity on this forum. I'n glad that i can be part of it and I hope someday I can help other with info and adivices.
I searche on web to see what my soil contain and I found this:
"peat, coconut fibers, clay and natural limestone, organic fertilizers (NPK: 10-4-4)

fine single substrate
suitable for sowing and planting medicinal plants in containers and outdoors
the unique structure ensures optimal aeration to accelerate root growth
contains organic fertilizer - helps to start growth
high absorption capacity and therefore the plants are excellently supplied with water
suitable for organic farming
not suitable for growing acidophilic plants"

I will post update every day with the plants and I will start watering them 4 times per week not just 2 times like I do now.

Here is a photo with them ladies in this morning at the start of the 18 hours light cyrcle.

Thanks you all for your answers and your willing to help and hospitable atitude!

Ps: i tried to find Emiya watering strategy with search function ..but i coudn't find it....maybe someone could link it if he/she have some time for this. Thanks again guys!

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I think it would be a good idea to water several times with a wetting agent, a saponin such as Yucca Extract. I use one called Therm X70.

Aloe vera is also good for this.
And water the whole pot.
Both coco and peat are hydrophobic by nature.

 
I just watered them with still water. I tested the ph of it and eas something like 7. I used -ph solution (photo) and I made 5ph for the water(photo). I watered them with this low ph water because the soil is alkaline (7-8ph) hoping that if the water is lower in ph the soil will lower it's ph too.

ps: i used 600ml of water per plant and as you guys told me I watered the hole pot.

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The greenish (7ph) paper is from the still water...and the yellowish (5ph)one is after I put 1,5ml of -ph solution in 0,5gallon still water
 
Short update: I cheked them after this morning watering and I noticed some spots on the leafs (1+2photo). Then I observed that there is a lot of water in the ,,pot plate" (photo 3)...is this because 600ml of water was too much for them? Should I put a lower amount next time..maybe 400ml?. And I have another question: if I have those little flies (photo 4) isn't that a sign of overwatering (although I watered them just 2 times a week)?

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Its most likely because you're not using a wetting agent.
The water just flows right through instead of soaking in.
Your soil is more than likely hydrophobic.
And what size pots are those?

For future grows i would suggest fabric pots
22l (6galons)...something like this. Ok thanks for the advice..I will look for the fabric ones next time. Maybe it's a stupid question but do you think that these autos whill make anything at the end? I ask you this because i think that I have to lower my expectations ..sadly
 
Looks good, dump the excess runoff water so it doesn’t soak back into the plant! I think your plants look great, dont worry about harvest weight just focus on keeping the plants green and standing upright. I still can’t grow a decent auto. Suggest that next time when you order beans get both auto and photo feminized seeds that way you have options. Autos can be stunted by looking at them wrong but photos can bounce back from mistakes.
 
Looks good, dump the excess runoff water so it doesn’t soak back into the plant! I think your plants look great, dont worry about harvest weight just focus on keeping the plants green and standing upright. I still can’t grow a decent auto. Suggest that next time when you order beans get both auto and photo feminized seeds that way you have options. Autos can be stunted by looking at them wrong but photos can bounce back from mistakes.
Well I wanted to have a fast harvest..that's why I choosed autos...but as always...fast and easy it's not possible. I will listen your advice...next time it will be for sure photos. Cheers mate!
 
Hey brother I just ripped through here ,,,, I just ran blueberry autos ,,,,,,,.one thing I've learned is don't change to much to fast or you won't correct the issue,,,,,,,,,,I'm not a 100% sure what the problem is but I'm going to side with nunya on this one , proper watering technique played a huge roll with my blueberry autos, if you water to much leafs droop , you water to little leafs droop , I found myself watering 2 times a day , but with you being in coco it might need more frequent watering, autos can be finicky little buggers and the smallest adjustment can make the biggest difference , I believe fabric pots make a huge difference with autos and lots of perlite if in soil , but to be honest I think your plants look pretty good
 
Hey brother I just ripped through here ,,,, I just ran blueberry autos ,,,,,,,.one thing I've learned is don't change to much to fast or you won't correct the issue,,,,,,,,,,I'm not a 100% sure what the problem is but I'm going to side with nunya on this one , proper watering technique played a huge roll with my blueberry autos, if you water to much leafs droop , you water to little leafs droop , I found myself watering 2 times a day , but with you being in coco it might need more frequent watering, autos can be finicky little buggers and the smallest adjustment can make the biggest difference , I believe fabric pots make a huge difference with autos and lots of perlite if in soil , but to be honest I think your plants look pretty good
Thanks mate! I'll try to adjust watering and feeding so that I can reach the desired balance...but as I said before I think that changing the old lamp with more powerfull one made them to a be a lil bit light stressed...and I say that cuz some small leafs have the taco form. Anyway..I will post daily photos so we can all see the progress (or the setback) . Cheers!
 
Thanks mate! I'll try to adjust watering and feeding so that I can reach the desired balance...but as I said before I think that changing the old lamp with more powerfull one made them to a be a lil bit light stressed...and I say that cuz some small leafs have the taco form. Anyway..I will post daily photos so we can all see the progress (or the setback) . Cheers!
They really don't look that bad , I think you got this brother!
 
22l (6galons)...something like this. Ok thanks for the advice..I will look for the fabric ones next time. Maybe it's a stupid question but do you think that these autos whill make anything at the end? I ask you this because i think that I have to lower my expectations ..sadly
Well being as that they are autoflowers and are small for 6 weeks and are in flower then I can't imagine that you will get much from these 3.
Best case you could get a couple ounces each, worst you might get a fat d00b each, just depends on how well they do the next 2 weeks.
They could snap outa their funk and start growing a couple inches or more per day, ya never know.
They don't appear to be totally stunted.

Photo-periods will be way more forgiving, give you time to phuck up and get them back on track.

Of course ideally the goal is not to phuck up and the best possible way to do that IMO is growing in Living Organic Soil in large fabric pots.
You don't need to pH, don't need to mess with nutrients, all you have to do is simply keep the soil moist by watering small amounts once or even several times a day.
And watch it grow.
The soil does all the work and it gives you the best bud to boot.
 
For the fungus gnats, remove standing water. yellow sticky cards, fan moving air at soil line and above canopy too. Add BTi which is mosquito bits or mosquito dunks to your water routine but draw water and treat 5 gallon bucket with dunk allowing it to soak overnigot. Thinks it’s small slice like 1/8th dunk per 5 gallon bucket or baby spoonful of pellets.
 
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