Autogrowers unite - We need answers - Beginner

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salchipapa27

New Member
Okay. :welcome: SO after surfing threads I see some people give autos nutes some don't really say anything about it so. NUTES.
When to start giving the autos nutes? If Autos need nutes. Which nutes are recommended? Dosages? And Schedules?

Personally, I got two autos on Fox Farms Ocean Forest. I don't know what nutes would go good for that soil.

Also, Pot sizes. some say 2 all the way up to 7? It's a short lifespan so I wouldn't want to waste soil and space. Please let me know what you guys know! Thank you :thumb:
 
Hello to you and I am just getting started with auto's for the first time. I have heard pot size's from 3 to 6+ gallons. I am going with a 5 gallon square bin. Just me, and the round peg in a square hole concept I don't like. My grow box is square and using a square container I can squeeze 3 containers. Into it instead of just 2 round cylinders and waste space. It also gives you more pulling distance if you choose to LST them to open them up. Every inch of lateral growth you can get saves two inches of horizontal growth. Or a better term is it helps you manage your box's height for later on. I have run out space to raise lights before...it sucks.

I am going with Fox Farms trio as I have some left from my full photo grows. And using them for a few years I KNOW what or how I screwed up before. You don't have much of a learning curve with auto's. I read about Advanced Nuits ph perfect and it is mentioned hear by many others. They all mentioned// needed to combined them with 3 to 4 other "enhancers" so what the big deal is I don't know. Also in another sites posts of Autos not checking your ph is plan stupid as it and humidity are as equally important as your light system. They give you the impression of just feed and watch them grow.

I just have a note book and write the amount of each nuits mixed, its ph before application. Then again for the next feed repeat. They say that EACH plant will differ and dictate what it needs. So until you Understand them it is your call as I will go 1/2 strength on the first feed then bump the second feed. Also they say don't saturate them 150 ml. to start out. After two feeds, I will do a heavier 250 ml straight R/O'ed feed at 6.8 ph. So I can get some run off and check its ph. To see what's going on and increase nuits from there. I "plan" on the box to be at 72~75 degrees and 50 to 65% humidity. A hotter box and higher humidity will change everything. As these basically stop veg growth cycle at 3.5 weeks, so yes you want to slam them hard with juice. But any mistake that costs you 7 days of veg in recovery. You cant add it to the lights on cycle to make it up as with non-autos.

A great option is to do two of the same species and run one light and the other hard and see how far you can push it. If it locks up and you loss 5 to 8 days growth you have a great reference for yourself. I also like the fact that in 9 to 10 weeks you have a harvest. So what would take 4 to 5 full grow seasons (years) with non-autos. In like 1.5 years you could have 5 to 6 complete auto grows under your belt. That is what I like about them.

All my knowledge is accumulated over 20 years of outdoor and 5 years indoor all in soil. I know none of that includes anything to do with Autos but I will use what did not work. Plus the ability to recognize an issue to make a better judgment. I have read 10 different post and half the info provided is agreed on by half. The other half is criticized by half......... bottom line is YOU WILL LEARN!! Will add more as I grow!! Please share what you have heard. ...Peace.....



:420: :thumb:


My First Attempt With Autos :peacetwo:
 
Atrain has a FANTASTIC thread on autoflower nutes for beginners right here. He also has an advanced feeding schedule over here.

I went into my local hydro store and picked out two brands of nutrients that fit my budget. I also made a "wish list" of nutes that would improve the base nutes. I told the owner what I was doing and he walked me through everything. Next I did a ton of research for which of those two brands worked best, and their recommended feeding schedule. From there, I hunted auto feeding schedules (just like you're doing), and ended up at the above two threads.

Another good place if you're unsure is follow auto journals. Not only will you see the nutes, and most have their feeding schedule on their threads, but you'll also get to see the results and all the bud porn. How could you beat that?

I can't help with pots, but I can say that fabric or air pruning pots get recommended a lot because they air prune the roots causing the roots to grow in another direct and making a larger root ball. Larger root ball/mass = larger plants.

And on that note, if you have a small area, a small pot will keep a smaller root mass in turn creating a smaller plant. If not, might as well go hog back wild and pick the 7 gallon and see what happens.
 
You will get many answers for this. I can say what works for me. Recently, my auto Northern Lights pulled 14oz of dry, cured, choice buds. My auto Critical just broke a world record at 2.95 pounds. Yes, for one plant.

I grow in coco, perlite, and rockwool. In all, I feed the same. These plants were fed three times a day on a dripper. In my ghetto grow, my Ultimate got huge under a 600w bulb and in a Walmart bag. Walmart bag holds about 9 gallons of medium and is only 50cents and acts just like an air pot.

In the ghetto grow, I fed by hand, using Flora Nova grow and bloom. How I feed is important. I have the feeding schedule on my Youtube channel.

I start feeding autos straight away with about 200ppm.
 
I dont understand y every one is so anal on testing ph of water.Surely if it safe for us to drink surely tap water wont hurt plants.I understand that dwc requires ph levels of water to be perfect for the roots take up oxygen h2o etc etc.Y are people wasting time checking h2o ph levels wen growing in any media,it just doesnt make sense to me.I also understand that some countries h2o supplies are different but surely the h2o isnt that bad u gotta test ph levels of every feed. I think alot of people try too hard and get too technical and sometimes making mistakes,y there is no need for it.Wateva happened to the KISS method.Keep It Simple Stupid.Theres a lot of technical mumbo jumbo everywhere that just complicates a simple process.Alot of it common sense,instead of ph, ing h2o y not think like a plant.Its easy just like babys we learn to no babys different sounding crys or even our pets when they bark the different tones in their bark one says he s down the road a bit (no danger ) then another bark tells u theres someone here beware.Plants r the same the more time u spend with them the better your understanding of wat they are saying to you,and then give them there passifier no stress happy healthy plant.U might totally disagree and thats fine every body has opinions and thoughts,mayb share thoughts here feel free,mayb there is something i dont about yet pls feel free
 
Is there a guide similar to A-Train's that provides a schedule for hydro/aero nutes with an autoflower?
 
Re: Autogrowers unite - We need answers - Beginner

I dont understand y every one is so anal on testing ph of water.Surely if it safe for us to drink surely tap water wont hurt plants.I understand that dwc requires ph levels of water to be perfect for the roots take up oxygen h2o etc etc.Y are people wasting time checking h2o ph levels wen growing in any media,it just doesnt make sense to me.I also understand that some countries h2o supplies are different but surely the h2o isnt that bad u gotta test ph levels of every feed. I think alot of people try too hard and get too technical and sometimes making mistakes,y there is no need for it.Wateva happened to the KISS method.Keep It Simple Stupid.Theres a lot of technical mumbo jumbo everywhere that just complicates a simple process.Alot of it common sense,instead of ph, ing h2o y not think like a plant.Its easy just like babys we learn to no babys different sounding crys or even our pets when they bark the different tones in their bark one says he s down the road a bit (no danger ) then another bark tells u theres someone here beware.Plants r the same the more time u spend with them the better your understanding of wat they are saying to you,and then give them there passifier no stress happy healthy plant.U might totally disagree and thats fine every body has opinions and thoughts,mayb share thoughts here feel free,mayb there is something i dont about yet pls feel free
Click to expand...


Well PH 7 is neutral and even safe for a baby. The difference between a 7 and 6 is 100x's more acidic. Comparing it to earthquakes: a 6.5 will shake paintings off the walls and a 7.5 will shake the walls down. So yes it does play a very important part to help the plant grow BIGGER and BETTER. Not worrying about it or adjusting it is also fine. If you are looking for weak and under developed plants. Then adding nuits without PH testing is more harmful to the plant then not getting any at all. If you did nothing, but dropped two seeds into a separate hole each in your backyard and only watered them equally. But one was with water from your garden hose. Then the other with the same garden hose water with its PH adjusted to 6.4/6.2 and just watch them grow.
 
Surely tap water is good enuf i never check ph waste of time . May b we have better tap water i aint ever checked ir and dont intend to.I know 5 is acidic and 7ish for alkaline u must have shitty h20
 

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